You’ve probably heard of retinol. Retinol is commonly used in anti-aging products. Retinol, or vitamin A, boosts collagen production and brightens the skin. Its effects in skin care have been studied a lot. Retinol is an active ingredient recognized by dermatologists. Unfortunately, retinol has its downsides. Retinol may irritate the skin. Fortunately, there is a safe alternative to retinol, Bakuchiol. In this article, I will tell you everything you need to know about bakuchiol and its use in cosmetics.
What is bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol is a completely plant-based extract, unlike retinol, which is synthetically produced. Bakuchiol is obtained from the babchi plant (Cullen corylifolium). The leaves, roots and seeds of the plant are used to make Bakuchiol. On the other hand, babchi oil is pressed from the seeds alone. Babchi oil contains only 3% of the active ingredients of bakuchiol extract. These two substances; bakuchiol extract and babchi oil are completely different products. You can use these two ingredients together, but they are not the same thing. You cannot replace bakuchiol extract with babchi oil. Cold-pressed babchi oil is also phototoxic, meaning it reacts on the skin under the influence of UV rays. The phototoxic substances have been removed from Bakuchiol extract, so you can also use it during the day.
Bakuchiol is not a new acquaintance. It has been used for centuries in Chinese and Indian medicine to treat various skin conditions. Bakuchiol is a traditional Ayurvedic medicine. It was rediscovered in 2014 because its retinol-like effects had been noticed in studies. An article published in the International Journal of Cosmetics Science talked about a study in which 17 female patients participated. The results of the study looked promising. The effect of Bakuchiol essentially resembled the effect of retinol, but without the side effects of retinol. The only problem was the smallness of the test group and the fact that there was no peer group at all.
The studies continued and already in 2018, a new study was published, in which a larger number of people participated. The study was conducted with a double-blind study. Also in this study, the effectiveness of bakuchiol proved to be comparable to that of retinol. More research is still needed to get more detailed information about the benefits and risks of bakuchiol.
Bakuchiol is a relatively valuable plant extract. Its availability has previously been difficult for small manufacturers and hobbyists. Now you can find bakuchiol a little easier in international online stores that sell cosmetic raw materials.
How does bakuchiol affect the skin?
I have been using bakuchiol day cream for a few months. I have been really pleased with its effect. The skin is significantly brighter and more elastic. The skin tone has been clearly evened out. I have never used products with retinol, so I do not have anything to compare with. For my sensitive skin, bakuchiol does not cause any problems. The same may not apply to you, so you should first test the product on an unseen spot on the skin.
Bakuchiol produces similar effects on the skin as retinol. However, Bakuchiol is not related to retinol. The way it works is completely different. in fact, researchers don’t know exactly how bakuchiol works. However, it has only been studied scientifically for such a short time.
Bakuchiol brightens the skin. Bakuchiol regenerates skin cells strongly. As a result, the tone and texture of the skin improves. Wrinkles and lines on the skin are reduced. The skin becomes firmer and more flexible.
Bakuchiol works deep in the dermis by stimulating collagen production. Collagen is a protein that makes the skin plump and youthful. In aged skin, there is little collagen left and that is why wrinkles are visible the deepest.
Bakuchiol is also useful for acne prone skin. It reduces the production of sebum and at the same time curbs the overproduction of bacteria on the skin.
Bakuchiol is a powerful antioxidant that fights free radicals on the skin. Free radicals are unstable molecules that damage your skin, by aging it. Antioxidants play a key role in the fight against free radicals.
Bakuchiol does not have the same photosensitizing property as retinol. Retinol should only be used in night creams precisely because of photosensitivity. Bakuchiol, on the other hand, can also be used in day creams and serums.
Bakuchiol does not dry the skin like retinol. It works to regenerate the skin so that the skin’s natural moisture balance is maintained.
How is bakuchiol used?
Bakuchiol is used very versatile in cosmetics. It is a very expensive ingredient, so it is rarely found in body care products. In products for mature skin, on the other hand, bakuchiol is a popular ingredient. You can find bakuchiol in serums and anti-aging creams and face masks.
Bakuchiol is easy to work with. It is an oil-soluble, odourless, brown extract. It is a heat-sensitive ingredient, so it is better to add it to the product only in the cooling phase. Bakuchiol oxidizes easily, so pack the products containing it in airtight or dark packaging to protect from light.
Bakuchiol is very effective. Only 0.5-1% of the extract is enough to achieve the desired effect on the skin. Bakuchiol can be mixed directly into the oil phase, but be careful not to heat it above 75 degrees Celsius. I only add bakuchiol to the emulsion when it has cooled down to 35 degrees. Bakuchiol should be dissolved in oils and then mixed into the emulsion. Although bakuchiol is brown in colour, it does not colour the emulsion, it remains pure white.
Who should use Bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol is suitable for all skin types. Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects are in a class of their own.
Bakuchiol is especially recommended for people whose skin cannot tolerate retinol. If your skin is sensitive, start with a small amount (0.5%) and increase the dose little by little if your skin seems to tolerate bakuchiol. Especially if you have skin problems like rosacea or eczema, start the bakuchiol experiment very carefully.
Bakuchiol is suitable for both dry and oily skin. It is used in both anti-aging products and acne creams. When bakuchiol is used on mature skin, its collagen-stimulating effects become more apparent. On young skin, bakuchiol works mainly as a skin-brightening and sebum-reducing ingredient.
Have you ever tried bakuchiol?