What is bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol is a completely plant-based extract, unlike retinol, which is synthetically produced. Bakuchiol is obtained from the babchi plant (Cullen corylifolium). The leaves, roots and seeds of the plant are used to make Bakuchiol. On the other hand, babchi oil is pressed from the seeds alone. Babchi oil contains only 3% of the active ingredients of bakuchiol extract. These two substances; bakuchiol extract and babchi oil are completely different products. You can use these two ingredients together, but they are not the same thing. You cannot replace bakuchiol extract with babchi oil. Cold-pressed babchi oil is also phototoxic, meaning it reacts on the skin under the influence of UV rays. The phototoxic substances have been removed from Bakuchiol extract, so you can also use it during the day.

Bakuchiol is not a new acquaintance. It has been used for centuries in Chinese and Indian medicine to treat various skin conditions. Bakuchiol is a traditional Ayurvedic medicine. It was rediscovered in 2014 because its retinol-like effects had been noticed in studies. An article published in the International Journal of Cosmetics Science talked about a study in which 17 female patients participated. The results of the study looked promising. The effect of Bakuchiol essentially resembled the effect of retinol, but without the side effects of retinol. The only problem was the smallness of the test group and the fact that there was no peer group at all.

The studies continued and already in 2018, a new study was published, in which a larger number of people participated. The study was conducted with a double-blind study. Also in this study, the effectiveness of bakuchiol proved to be comparable to that of retinol. More research is still needed to get more detailed information about the benefits and risks of bakuchiol.

Bakuchiol is a relatively valuable plant extract. Its availability has previously been difficult for small manufacturers and hobbyists. Now you can find bakuchiol a little easier in international online stores that sell cosmetic raw materials.

How does bakuchiol affect the skin?

I have been using bakuchiol day cream for a few months. I have been really pleased with its effect. The skin is significantly brighter and more elastic. The skin tone has been clearly evened out. I have never used products with retinol, so I do not have anything to compare with. For my sensitive skin, bakuchiol does not cause any problems. The same may not apply to you, so you should first test the product on an unseen spot on the skin.

Bakuchiol produces similar effects on the skin as retinol. However, Bakuchiol is not related to retinol. The way it works is completely different. in fact, researchers don’t know exactly how bakuchiol works. However, it has only been studied scientifically for such a short time.

Bakuchiol brightens the skin. Bakuchiol regenerates skin cells strongly. As a result, the tone and texture of the skin improves. Wrinkles and lines on the skin are reduced. The skin becomes firmer and more flexible.

Bakuchiol works deep in the dermis by stimulating collagen production. Collagen is a protein that makes the skin plump and youthful. In aged skin, there is little collagen left and that is why wrinkles are visible the deepest.

Bakuchiol is also useful for acne prone skin. It reduces the production of sebum and at the same time curbs the overproduction of bacteria on the skin.

Bakuchiol is a powerful antioxidant that fights free radicals on the skin. Free radicals are unstable molecules that damage your skin, by aging it. Antioxidants play a key role in the fight against free radicals.

Bakuchiol does not have the same photosensitizing property as retinol. Retinol should only be used in night creams precisely because of photosensitivity. Bakuchiol, on the other hand, can also be used in day creams and serums.

Bakuchiol does not dry the skin like retinol. It works to regenerate the skin so that the skin’s natural moisture balance is maintained.

How is bakuchiol used?

Bakuchiol is used very versatile in cosmetics. It is a very expensive ingredient, so it is rarely found in body care products. In products for mature skin, on the other hand, bakuchiol is a popular ingredient. You can find bakuchiol in serums and anti-aging creams and face masks.

Bakuchiol is easy to work with. It is an oil-soluble, odourless, brown extract. It is a heat-sensitive ingredient, so it is better to add it to the product only in the cooling phase. Bakuchiol oxidizes easily, so pack the products containing it in airtight or dark packaging to protect from light.

Bakuchiol is very effective. Only 0.5-1% of the extract is enough to achieve the desired effect on the skin. Bakuchiol can be mixed directly into the oil phase, but be careful not to heat it above 75 degrees Celsius. I only add bakuchiol to the emulsion when it has cooled down to 35 degrees. Bakuchiol should be dissolved in oils and then mixed into the emulsion. Although bakuchiol is brown in colour, it does not colour the emulsion, it remains pure white.

Who should use Bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol is suitable for all skin types. Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects are in a class of their own.

Bakuchiol is especially recommended for people whose skin cannot tolerate retinol. If your skin is sensitive, start with a small amount (0.5%) and increase the dose little by little if your skin seems to tolerate bakuchiol. Especially if you have skin problems like rosacea or eczema, start the bakuchiol experiment very carefully.

Bakuchiol is suitable for both dry and oily skin. It is used in both anti-aging products and acne creams. When bakuchiol is used on mature skin, its collagen-stimulating effects become more apparent. On young skin, bakuchiol works mainly as a skin-brightening and sebum-reducing ingredient.

Have you ever tried bakuchiol?

Artikkeli Bakuchiol, what it is and what does bakuchiol do to skin? julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Collagen is a protein

Collagen comes from the Greek word “kolla” which means glue.Collagen is a common protein found in all mammals. Collagen consists of amino acids, which together form a collagen spiral. Collagen is found in many body tissues such as

• In cartilage
• In connective tissue
• In bones
• In the tendons
• In ligaments
• On the skin
• In blood vessels
• In the intestines
• In corneas
• In the discs between the vertebrae (spinal discs)
• In the heart

Collagen makes up 1-2% of muscle tissue. It accounts for about 6% of bones. Collagen is therefore a very important protein whose effect does not only extend to the skin and youthful appearance.

There are five different types of collagens. The most common collagen in the human body is type 1 collagen. More than 90% of the collagen in the human body is type 1 collagen.

As you can see, collagen plays a very important role in all body functions. If collagen production does not work in the human body, the problems affect health very adversely. Wrinkles and aged skin are only the tip of the iceberg.

Functions of collagen on the skin

We could talk about collagen and health a lot, but in this blog, we will only focus on the collagen in the skin. The skin is divided into three parts

• Epidermis
• Dermis
• Subcutaneous layer

Collagen is located in the dermis, the middle layer of the skin.

What does collagen do in the skin?

The skin’s collagen is in the dermis and has many functions. Listed here are just a few of the most important roles that collagen plays in your skin.

The amount of collagen decreases with age

The skin of children, teenagers and young adults is elastic and wrinkle-free. They have plenty of collagen in the epidermis and the skin functions flawlessly. The human body takes care of collagen. Every year, 3 kilograms of collagen breaks down in our body and 3 kilograms of new, flexible collagen is produced as replacement.

As we age, collagen production declines. Collagen is formed less than it is removed and it is of lower quality. In an elderly person, collagen is not as flexible and elastic as in young people. All this can be seen on the face as signs of aging. The facial features glow downwards. Cheeks that were so round before are starting to sag. Deep furrows appear on the skin when the collagen is no longer stretching the skin taut.

Collagen production decreases little by little, but the biggest leap occurs after menopause. Then collagen production declines significantly. Everyone over the age of 60 experiences a decrease in collagen production. It is completely normal and part of aging.

How do I know if my collagen levels are declining?

You cannot measure your collagen levels with blood tests. However, you can determine your collagen status in other ways. Collagen is everywhere in the body, so its reduction is visible throughout the body, not just on the skin.

• Wrinkles around the eyes and mouth
• Saggy skin
• Joint pains and poorer joint mobility
• Digestive problems (thinning of the mucous membranes and resulting problems)
• Problems with blood circulation
• Muscle pain and muscle contraction

Increasing collagen levels is not a simple matter

Collagen has become a very good money maker for the nutritional supplement and cosmetics industry. People want to be convinced that by eating supplements containing collagen and using collagen creams, we can regain our youth. Unfortunately, however, this is not the case.

There are also collagen injections available to increase the level of the collagen in the body. The effect of the injections lasts for some time, after which new injections should be taken. This is an expensive procedure and only helps locally.

Collagen cannot be absorbed into the skin

Collagen is a protein made up of amino acids. Just to transport amino acids through the epidermis to the middle layer of the skin, the dermis, is almost impossible. The structure of collagen is so large that it cannot possibly get into the dermis. Collagen cannot even penetrate the epidermis, but remains on the surface of the skin. Therefore, creams containing collagen do not help to increase the amount of collagen in the skin.

There are lot of ads promoting collagen supplements and they are quite popular. However, the body can produce collagen itself from amino acids. You do not necessarily need to eat collagen, although there is no risk unless you eat huge amounts of it.

To get enough building materials to produce collagen from food, you need enough high-quality protein. This type of protein is found in meat, fish, milk, and eggs.

If you are a vegetarian, you need to be more careful about the quality of your food. To get complete protein, you should eat both vegetables, legumes (such as beans and lentils), and grains. All these plants have protein, but their protein consists of different amino acids. To get all the necessary amino acids, you should eat a variety of plant products.

Take care of your collagen levels

Collagen has been studied for hundreds of years. In traditional Chinese medicine, collagen-rich products were used internally to achieve more youthful looking skin. A gelatinous preparation obtained from donkey skin, called Ejiao, was a very popular medicine. Cao Zhi (192-232) was a famous Chinese writer. He was unnaturally thin and therefore was offered Ejiao preparation. His skin rejuvenated quickly, wrinkles disappeared and the skin became more elastic. Eating foods containing collagen is still a good way to take care of the youthfulness of the skin and the whole body.

Protect your own collagen stores

Easier than adding collagen that has already been lost from your body is protecting the existing collagen that is still left. There are many things that reduce our collagen levels. When we learn to remove these harmful things and habits from our lives, collagen levels stay higher and we can enjoy a youthful essence for longer.

At least the following things are known to lose collagen levels heavily

Smoking

Smoking has been found to reduce collagen formation. it damages collagen and slows wound healing. Nicotine constricts the peripheral blood vessels on the skin and prevents the transport of nutrients to the skin.

Too much sugar and too many carbohydrates

Sugar attaches to proteins and forms advanced glycation end products. Such proteins cause collagen to weaken and become brittle. Keep your carbohydrate levels moderate. It also helps with skin care.

Excessive sunlight

UV radiation causes collagen to break down faster. It also reduces collagen production. You can protect yourself from excessive sunlight by staying in the shade, covering your body and, if necessary, using sun protection products.

Can cosmetics affect collagen levels?

After all this, I can say to your surprise that it can. Applying collagen to the skin does not help collagen production, but there are other techniques. Many cosmetic substances increase the production of collagen, even if they do not contain collagen. They work so-called as a collagen booster. The most important and familiar ingredient in cosmetics that increases collagen synthesis is vitamin C, i.e. ascorbic acid.

Vitamin C

Along with amino acids, the most important substance in collagen synthesis is vitamin C. Vitamin C is of course an effective antioxidant, but it is also a necessary substance in the production of collagen. Taking vitamin C supplements is also beneficial for collagen synthesis. It benefits the whole body. When applied externally to the face using creams and serums containing vitamin C, it can be absorbed deep into the skin and have an effect exactly where collagen is produced. That is why the products containing vitamin C are really recommended in the treatment of aged skin.

Antioxidants

The worst enemy of collagen in the skin is low-grade inflammation. Products containing ingredients that soothe the skin and reduce inflammation protect the collagen in the skin. All antioxidants are such substances.

Inflammation breaks down collagen everywhere in the body, including the skin. It does not have to be a violent, acute inflammation. Low-grade inflammation can appear on the skin only as mild irritation. That is why many skin care products have skin-soothing properties. They reduce inflammation and at the same time protect collagen from destruction.

Use natural, unrefined vegetable oils in skin care

Natural vegetable oils contain antioxidants such as vitamin E, carotenoids, chlorophyll, and many phenolic compounds. In unrefined, natural oils, most of the unsaponifiable substances of the oil are still saved. Such oils are often colourful; green, red or golden yellow. There are, for example, high antioxidant concentrations in hemp oil, rosehip oil and sea buckthorn oil

Other good, antioxidant-rich cosmetic ingredients are:

• Resveratol
• Bakuchiol
• Pycnogenol

With these above-mentioned substances have a proven effect on collagen synthesis. Bakuchiol is a natural alternative to vitamin A. It helps in many ways in the treatment of aged skin.

When reducing the signs of skin aging, boosting your own collagen and its production is the key. Forget expensive collagen creams and pamper your skin with antioxidants. You do not have to wait until you are 60. It is worth taking care of the skin and the skin’s collagen level already now. Protecting the skin from excessive UV rays, a balanced diet and skin care products rich in vitamin C and antioxidants strengthen and protect your own collagen reserves.

Artikkeli Collagen in skin care; the fountain of youth, the secret of beauty julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

What is allantoin?

Allantoin is a crystalline, white powder. It is acidic (pH 4.5-6) and soluble in water. Allantoin has no fragrance at all.

Chemically, allantoin is an oxidation product of uric acid. Allantoin is produced in most mammals. This is what the Wikipedia tells us. This information is enough for most. Who would like to add oxidized urine substances to their product, duh!

However, allantoin is not the same as urea, the urinary substances. Urea does have very similar effects to allantoin, but allantoin is a much more sophisticated ingredient in cosmetics than urea. Natural allantoin is found not only in the urine of mammals, but also in plants and bacteria. In the flora, allantoin is found, for example, in comfreys. Unfortunately, comfrey is liver toxic (pyrrolizidine alkaloids), so its leaves and roots should not be used in cosmetics. However, in the USA, for example, the common comfrey is still used externally, despite the toxic ingredients. Why, I don’t understand?

Many other plants, such as chamomile, also contain allantoin. However, there is such a small amount of allantoin in chamomile that it does not mean a thing in cosmetics. However, natural allantoin is claimed to be more effective because the other ingredients of the herbs support the function of allantoin.

The allantoin used in cosmetics is of synthetic origin

Allantoin, which is used as a raw material in cosmetics, is neither made from urine nor from plants. It is a completely synthetic product made from urea and glycosyl acid in chemical factories. Italian doctor Michele Fancesco Buniva and French chemist Louis Nicolas Vauquelin isolated allantoin for the first time already in 1800.

There are several forms of allantoin such as allantoin ascorbate, allantoin biotin or allantoin panthenol. The most common form of allantoin is pure allantoin.

Use of allantoin in cosmetics

In cosmetics, allantoin act as a moisturizing ingredient. It is used in the treatment of dry and rough skin. Allantoin works especially well on scaly skin. It reduces skin irritation and reduces itching. Allantoin is a very good active ingredient for sensitive skin. It is well tolerated and usually does not cause skin problems.

Allantoin affects the skin in many different ways.

Moisturizing ingredient

In cosmetics, allantoin has been used as a moisturizing ingredient. Many moisturizers contain allantoin. Allantoin locks moisture into the skin and thus helps the skin to maintain an optimal moisture balance even in a dry climate.

Acne treatment

Benzoyl peroxide has traditionally been used in the treatment of acne. It is a skin drying agent that can even worsen acne symptoms. Allantoin works on the skin in principally the same way as benzoyl peroxide but it does not dry the skin. On the contrary, it moisturizes and cares for the skin. This way acne heals faster.

Irritated, itchy skin

Allantoin has skin soothing properties. Allantoin creams have also been used to treat itchy eczema skin. Allantoin can be combined with products containing aloe vera and oats to strengthen the skin-soothing effects. In many moisturizer formulas, allantoin is specifically combined with aloe vera. These two ingredients work really well together.

Wound healing and scarring

Allantoin has traditionally been used in medicated creams designed to treat wounds. Allantoin causes skin cells to regenerate faster. In cosmetics, this property can be utilized by using allantoin in creams intended for the treatment of scars. For example, in creams used as tattoo cream and eyebrow microblading treatment, allantoin could be useful. In scar creams, allantoin is often combined with onion extract. The combination of onion extract and allantoin regenerates and moisturizes the skin and is anti-inflammatory.

Anti-aging effects

Allantoin has keratolytic properties. This means that allantoin helps the skin to exfoliate. In this way, dead skin cells are removed and the skin starts to regenerate faster.

Because allantoin causes skin cells to regenerate faster, it is also useful in anti-aging products like wrinkle creams. Thanks to allantoin, the small lines and wrinkles of the skin are smoothed out and the skin is firmed up. It also facilitates collagen synthesis, which gives your skin a youthful appearance.

How is allantoin used in cosmetics?

Allantoin is water-soluble, so you can use it in all products containing water, such as emulsions and toners. The problem with allantoin is its poor solubility. I recommend using allantoin at most 0.2% in products. If you use more allantoin, the rest will remain as crystals in the product. That’s why you should get yourself a reliable precision scale that can also weigh hundredths of a gram.

I have also tried allantoin in anhydrous products. Although allantoin is water-soluble, a small amount of allantoin is good for whipped body lotions, for example.

Try allantoin in products for children and babies

Allantoin is a well-tolerated cosmetic ingredient. It usually does not irritate the skin. Allantoin is therefore particularly suitable for the youngest members of the family. An allantoin-containing cream could be suitable, for example, for a baby’s irritated diaper area.

Avoid these ingredients with allantoin

Allantoin goes well with cosmetic ingredients. However, there are a few ingredients you should avoid in products containing allantoin. Such ingredients include, for example, hydroxy acids (AHA and BHA) such as glycolic, lactic, mandelic and salicylic acids. Hydroxy acids are used in cosmetics for exfoliation. If you combine these acids with a product containing allantoin, the effect may be too strong and your skin will be irritated.

You can also be allergic to allantoin…

You can also be allergic to allantoin. You’ll recognize it when your skin starts to react after using products containing allantoin. The reaction may come immediately or only after a few days. This depends on your sensitivity to the product.

If your skin stings, itches, burns, or turns red, you should stop using the product containing allantoin. If the skin calms down, you are obviously allergic to allantoin. If this happens, stop using allantoin.

Have you used allantoin in your cosmetic products?

Artikkeli Allantoin; a versatile and safe cosmetic ingredient julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

What are skin moisturizing substances?

Skin moisturizing substances do not mean only a certain group of raw materials. The moisture balance of the skin can be affected in many different ways. Skin moisturizing substances are important when you want to create a good moisturizing lotion.

Occlusive substances

Epidermal moisture loss is a condition where the skin loses/evaporates moisture to the air. The skin can be protected with cosmetics so that it loses as little moisture as possible. These cosmetic substances are called occlusive substances. Occlusive agents are oil soluble. They form a protective film on the surface of the skin that prevents the moisture in the skin from evaporating. Occlusive ingredients are necessary when we stay in a very dry climate. This treatment is also known as slugging.

Skin softening agents

Moisturizing vegetable oils are often recommended for dry skin. The moisturizing effect of vegetable oils is not based on moisture but on their skin softening effect. Skin softening substances can also be occlusive so they also protect the skin from drying out.

Moisturising substances

There are two different types of actual moisturizing ingredients; ingredients that increase the moisture and ingredients that collect the moisture. Moisturizing ingredients bring more moisture to the skin.  For example, ingredients that increase the moisture are water, hydrolats, or aloe Vera gel.

Humectants

Ingredients that collect moisture have their own name. They are humectants. Humectants do not moisturize the skin if there is no basic moisture in the skin. Humectants retain the already existing moisture in the skin and collect more moisture around them, if there is any available. The best known and most used humectant is glycerol. Along with glycerol, hyaluronic acid is also used as a humectant in moisturizers.

Why are moisturizing ingredients used in cosmetics?

The moisturizing ingredients of the cosmetics take care of the hydration of the skin. In cosmetics, moisturizing ingredients are combined into one product, a moisturizing lotion. The main function of the moisturizing lotion is to bring more moisture to the skin, protect the skin from moisture loss, and even out the skin’s appearance and surface.

Dry skin feels uncomfortable and tightens. The skin reacts to dryness with itching, tingling and even pain. As it dries, the surface of the skin becomes rough. Dry skin also looks lifeless and grey. Moisturizing lotion gives dry skin a healthy colour and feel.

Moisturized skin is less susceptible to various skin diseases such as eczema and other atopic skin diseases.

How do moisturizing ingredients in cosmetics work on the skin?

The mechanism of action of moisturizing ingredients depends a lot on the type of ingredient. Lotions are made from carefully selected, mutually supportive ingredients. One moisturizing ingredient does not make a good moisturizing lotion. In many lotions, several different humectants and occlusive agents have been used to get the preferred product.

Water is essential for the skin

Moisture is vital for the skin. Without moisture, the skin would be paper thin and would tear easily from mere contact. The skin needs moisture to be able to function properly and repair itself. Healthy, young skin can take care of its own moisture because the body moisturizes the skin from the inside. As we age, the skin’s ability to take care of moisture decreases. The skin then needs extra care. You should also take care of moisture coming from your body. That is why it is important to drink enough water and other liquids.

Dry skin also needs moisture from the outside. Good moisturizing agents are water and all water-based ingredients such as hydrosols, herbal infusions or aloe Vera juice. The important, aqueous ingredients are found in the water phase of the emulsion lotion.

Occlusive substances protect the skin

Natural occlusive substances form a film on the surface of the skin that does not pass water but still allows the skin to breathe. Dry skin is often caused by excessive permeability of the skin. The skin evaporates too much moisture. Occlusive ingredients help the skin’s own protective layer to perform its task.

Mineral oil is used a lot in the treatment of dry skin because it has such good occlusive properties. However, mineral oil does not allow the skin to breathe freely. That’s why it’s worth replacing mineral oil with natural occlusive ingredients.

Beeswax is one of the most natural and oldest skin care products. Its skin-protecting properties are undeniable. Beeswax is antiseptic because of the ingredients it contains. Beeswax protects the skin without making the surface of the skin too dense.

Natural vegetable waxes such as carnauba wax and candelilla wax work on the skin in the same way as beeswax.

Some vegetable oils and butters also have occlusive properties. Some fatty acids contained in oils and vegetable creams are able to form a moisture-holding film on the surface of the skin. As an example, I can mention babassu oil, avocado oil or almond oil. There are also many other oils that have good occlusive properties.

Humectants attract water

The moisturizing ingredients contained in moisturizing lotions are absorbed into the skin to attract moisture around it. The lower layers of the skin contain more moisture than the upper ones. The moisturizing ingredients transfer the moisture from the lower layers to the surface of the skin. There are a few natural, moisturizing ingredients; glycerine, sorbitol and hyaluronic acid. All these ingredients work on the skin in their own special way. You can read more about glycerol or glycerine here.

Hyaluronic acid is a natural ingredient that is naturally present in our skin. Hyaluronic acid is continuously produced in the body. It occurs mostly in the eyes, joints and skin. Hyaluronic acid, intended as an ingredient in cosmetics, is produced by fermentation with the help of bacteria. Hyaluronic acid can also be of animal origin. Hyaluronic acid is one of the most expensive raw materials in cosmetics. It is used in cosmetic products only in very small amounts (1-2%). There are many different qualities of hyaluronic acid, depending on the molecular size of the product.

Hyaluronic acid is very effective at absorbing water. Its water absorption capacity is many times higher than that of glycerol. In addition to moisturizing, hyaluronic acid also makes your skin flexible. It belongs to the same series as collagen and elastin. Hyaluronic acid takes care of the skin’s elasticity, reducing wrinkles and fine lines. Due to its versatility, hyaluronic acid is a very popular ingredient in moisturizing creams and lotions.

Skin softening agents improve the appearance of the skin

Taking care of skin hydration is important. Moisturized skin is soft and flexible. Soft and flexible skin can receive more moisture. Softening ingredients repair the texture of dry skin. The most important skin-softening group of ingredients are various fats aka lipids. Ordinary vegetable oils soften the skin. That’s why vegetable oils are the most important ingredients in moisturizing products.

When vegetable oils are combined with water to form an emulsion, the skin softening effect is significantly greater. Especially for very dry skin, emulsion lotions are often better than water-free ones.

Squalene and squalane

Among lipids that soften the skin, I could mention squalane and squalene separately. Squalane and squalene are slightly different things. Squalene occurs naturally in human skin. The raw material for cosmetics, squalene, is obtained from olive oil.

Squalene starts to slowly disapper from the skin already after the age of 25. Very dry and aged skin has almost no squalene. That’s why you should add squalane made from olive oil to the skin. Squalane stays in the outer layers of the skin, improving the skin’s protective layer. Squalane softens the skin while forming a thin film on the surface of the skin. Another good feature of squalane is that it removes the feeling of greasiness from the cream.

Design your own moisturizer

Designing your own moisturizing product is easy when you know what you’re doing. Think about what properties you require from your cream. Just a skin feel or smell doesn’t say much about the cream. In order to preserve the skin’s moisture, your cream must contain softening, protective and moisturizing ingredients in the right proportion, as well as moisture, the water-containing ingredients.

For those of you who don’t like to make your own cosmetics, knowing the contents of the moisturizing product is also very necessary. Research products in different stores and look for protective, softening and moisturizing ingredients. I can assure you that there are a huge number of so-called moisturizing products for sale, which do not, however, moisturize the skin. If the product is missing any of the above-mentioned ingredients, you can be sure that the product will not work properly.

What are the ingredients in your favourite moisturizer?

Artikkeli The moisturizing ingredients of cosmetics; what does a good moisturizing lotion contain? julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Vitamins; what they really are?

Vitamins are micronutrients. The body is unable to produce vitamins itself or produces them in just very small quantities. Vitamins must therefore be obtained from food. The condition of your skin is very much affected by what you eat. Up to 80-90% of skin care depends on internal issues of human body. Eating variedly and healthy, outdoor activity and relaxing skin condition can make the most effective result. However, external skin care is also very important.

Vitamins are organic substances as opposed to minerals such as zinc or magnesium which are also essential to nutrition. Vitamins are a rather miscellaneous set of substances. Vitamins are divided into water-soluble and fat-soluble vitamins. This partition is very important to understand when making cosmetics. The fat-soluble vitamins are mixed with the oil phase during the manufacturing process and the water-soluble ones with the aqueous phase.

Many vitamins are very easily destroyed. Therefore, you should be careful when dealing with them.

How do vitamins work on the skin?

Vitamins have different functions. When used externally, vitamins act slightly differently than internally. External use does not treat vitamin deficiencies. If you are clearly nutrition deficiency, you may want to use vitamins as a supplement.

Vitamin A.

Vitamins A is a group of fat-soluble vitamins. Vitamin A is also commonly referred as retinol. Natural A vitamins include retinoids and carotenoids. Retinoids are found in products of animal origin and carotenoids in vegetables. There are also synthetic A vitamins. Some of the synthetic A vitamins are classified as drugs. In particular, synthetic vitamin A may irritate, dry out and make the skin sensitive to light if the product is used for long period of time.

The safest and at the same time simplest is to use herbal retinol in cosmetics. Retinol is found in many plants. Carrot carotenoids are perhaps the best-known source of retinol for skin care.

• Retinol helps the skin to tan
• Retinol stimulates collagen production and thus reduces wrinkles and fine lines
• Helps skin cells regenerate faster
• Improves skin texture and tone
• Helps treat acne skin. Some acne medications prescribed by your doctor include synthetic vitamin A.
• Smoothens skin discoloration and hyperpigmentation

The Group of Vitamin B

Group B vitamins are water-soluble vitamins and there are many of them. Internally, many use a combination of all the B vitamins. All B vitamins, when used internally, are also important for skin health. Group B vitamins are rich in both vegetarian and animal products. Only vitamin B12 can be a problem in a vegan diet. This is why many vegans regularly take vitamin B12 supplements.

Three different B vitamins are mainly used in cosmetics; niacin, panthenol, folic acid and biotin.

• Biotin is very important for hair and nails.
• Folic acid supports aging skin. Together with creatine, folic acid helps in the absorption of collagen.
• Niacinamide is added to products designed to reduce pores. Niacinamide also smoothens small lines on the skin and refreshes the skin in general.
• Panthenol is used not only in hair care products, but also to treat dry, scaly skin. Interestingly panthenol is also used to treat acne. You can find panthenol in INCI under the name pantothenic acid.

Visit my article on niacin: Niacin is very important vitamin for the skin

Vitamin C

Vitamin C or ascorbic acid is a very important vitamin in skin care. Vitamin C is always vegan.

Vitamin C is always a water-soluble vitamin. Fat-soluble vitamin C does not exist. You often see products that claim to contain fat-soluble vitamin C. This substance is actually L-ascorbyl-6-palmitate. L-ascorbyl-6-palmitate is not vitamin C. It is an ester of palmitic acid. Ascorbic acid has been used for esterification in this case. L-ascorbyl-6-palmitate is used in the food industry as an acidity regulator in high fat products. However, L-ascorbyl-6-palmitate is a fairly safe compound for the skin.

Vitamin C is used in cosmetic products as a powder. When dissolved in a liquid, vitamin C is particularly sensitive to destruction by heat, light, air and bases. It is worth preparing products containing vitamin C by yourself. This will ensure that you will get effective vitamin C.

• Vitamin C acts as an antioxidant on the skin
• Vitamin C is important in collagen synthesis
• Vitamin C brightens the skin

Make an easy and effective vitamin C serum: Cheery vitamin C serum treats tired skin

Vitamin D

Vitamin D is a fat-soluble vitamin. There are two different types of vitamin D; Vitamins D2 and D3. Vitamin D2 is herbal. Vitamin D3, in turn, is formed on human skin. It is also obtained from products of animal origin such as fish liver.

Vitamin D3 is created on the skin by itself when we can stay under the sun long enough. Herbal vitamin D2, on the other hand, is very commonly used in skin care products. Vitamin D2 is naturally present in many vegetable oils. The vitamin D2 levels of different oils vary greatly.

Vitamin D should be used in skin care products, especially during the long and dark winter months.

• Vitamin D is an antioxidant that helps fight the signs of aging on the skin
• Vitamin D supports normal skin function and cell regeneration

Vitamin E

Vitamin E, or tocopherol, is a fat-soluble vitamin. Vitamin E is mostly found in vegetable oils, seeds and nuts. Especially untreated, unheated, cold-pressed oils are very rich in vitamins E. Refined oils also still have a lot of vitamin E left. Vitamin E is not just one compound. There are many different types of e-vitamins. In oils, vitamin E usually occurs in four different groups of vitamin E.

• Vitamin E is very well absorbed into the skin as it is a natural component of the skin
• Vitamin E is a very strong antioxidant. Therefore, it is well suited for aged skin
• Vitamin E improves the skin’s moisture balance
• Vitamin E repairs minor skin damage
• Vitamin E supplementation improves the shelf life of products

Vitamins are a safe and effective way to add active ingredients to a product

If you are wondering how to add more power to your own skincare product, choose one or some of the vitamins mentioned above. Vitamins are relatively safe to use in cosmetics. The best and safest way to add vitamins to a product is to use ingredients that contain vitamins in their natural form. For example, vitamin E can be obtained on the skin by using vegetable oils with a special vitamin E content. Carotene is easily obtained from carrot oil and sea buckthorn oil.

Do you use vitamins in skin care?

Artikkeli Benefits of vitamins in skincare and cosmetics julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

What are ceramides?

Ceramides are a set of lipids, or fatty substances. The word ceramide comes from the words cera, meaning wax, and amide. Ceramides are found all over the human body, not just in the skin. Ceramides are located on the cell membrane, in just about every cell.

Anyone who has seen a new-born baby has certainly seen ceramide as well. At birth, the baby’s skin is protected by a waxy, pale paste. This paste contains ceramide. Ceramides are known to have special, protective effects during the first hours of a new-born baby.

The functions of ceramides on the skin

Ceramides play an important role in forming the protective layer of the skin. Together with cholesterol and fatty acids, ceramides form an impermeable surface on the skin.

Ceramides regenerate the skin. They help damaged skin heal.

Ceramides soothe the skin. Ceramides have anti-inflammatory effects. Therefore, they are often used in inflammatory skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis, couperosa, and as an aid in the treatment of rosacea. Ceramides also reduce itching and stinging. Especially in the case of eczema itching is quite an awkward symptom.

Why are ceramides used in skin care?

Ceramides have two main functions on the skin; skin protection and keeping skin moisturized.

The outermost layer of the skin contains about 50% ceramides, 25% cholesterol and 15% fatty acids. The most important ceramides in skin care are ceramide 2, ceramide 3 and ceramide 6 II. Ceramide plays a very important role in the well-being of the skin. You may want to try adding ceramides into your own products.

Ceramides are a natural part of the skin, so they are suitable for all skin types. You can even use ceramides around your eyes. Ceramides do not irritate the skin. Ceramide is usually sold blended with fatty alcohols that skin tolerates well.

Young skin is rich in ceramides naturally. As the skin ages, even the ceramide levels begin to decrease. Then it is worth adding ceramides to the skin. Excessive sunbath also reduces the ceramide content of the skin.

A very important application of ceramides is the anti-aging cream. As you age, the amount of both ceramides and cholesterol on your skin decreases. In the absence of ceramides, the skin begins to become brittle. Bacteria and air pollutants get through the skin more easily. Fragile skin also releases moisture, meaning the skin dries. Ceramides are therefore particularly suitable for the treatment of aged and dry skin.

Ceramides are used especially in skin diseases. Ceramides take care of skin moisture and regeneration. Many pharmacy creams also include ceramides. Ceramides strengthen brittle skin in connection with skin diseases. Ceramides are particularly important in the treatment of eczema. The ceramide-containing cream does not actually cure eczema but it maintains the health of already improved skin. This way, the eczema does not grow back so easily. My own dermatologist recommended me ceramide creams to maintain the condition of my skin and hair.

Acne skin can also benefit from ceramides. Ceramides have a soothing effect on the skin. Although ceramides hardly cure acne, they calm the skin.

Ceramides and air pollution

Ceramides strengthen the outermost layer of the skin. Ceramides make your skin a tight and impermeable protection against airborne contaminants. There is a huge number of pollutants in urban air that are difficult to avoid. Our own skin is a crucial air purifier. Many airborne contaminants age the skin. Air pollution is one of the major reasons of skin damages caused by free radicals.

An effective way to protect your skin against airborne contaminants is to enhance the protective effect of the skin by using ceramic-containing products. Ceramides play a huge role in protecting the skin. Half of the skin is protected specifically by ceramides.

Ceramides and hair care

Most of us have certainly come across ceramides in hair products. Ceramic Hair Treatments are popular year after year. Ceramides have many good properties that are beneficial for the hair

• Strengthens hair
• Moisturizes the scalp
• Moisturizes hair
• Repairs hair structure, acts like an adhesive
• Smoothens hair
• Brings more shine
• Increases the weather resistance of the hair

Where is Ceramide Made of?

Ceramides are made in three different ways; vegetable oils, animal fats and synthetically.

Vegetable oil-derived ceramide

Ceramide, which is a raw material for cosmetics, is usually plant-based. Ceramides are obtained from various vegetable oils such as the highly nutritious wheat germ oil. Plant-based t ceramides have been shown to be effective in maintaining skin moisture. By using wheat germ oil, you get both vitamins E and ceramides at the same time. I myself have tried to use the most natural ingredients possible in cosmetics. As an eczema patient, I want a higher ceramide content in the cream. Therefore, I add ceramides isolated from vegetable oils to my own product.

Plant-based ceramide helps to strengthen the protective layer of the skin but it does not renew or heal the skin.

The plant-based ceramic product I buy contains 15% ceramides. The rest of the substance is Cetearyl Alcohol. Ceramides are sold in small pellets that are easy to melt into fats and oils.

Ceramide of animal origin

Animal-derived ceramide acts as both a skin-strengthening and cell-regenerating product. For ethical reasons, animal-derived ceramide is not very popular in cosmetics.

Synthetic ceramide

Synthetic ceramide is a copy of ceramides of animal origin. Synthetic ceramides have both skin strengthening and rejuvenating properties. So synthetic ceramides are not necessarily a bad thing. They are stable and safe to use.

Ceramides in INCI

Ceramides are commonly found in cosmetics under the name Ceramide. The name can be accompanied by numbers such as 1,2,3 or letter combinations EOS, EOP, NG, NP, NS and AP.

Ceramides are sometimes also referred to as N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, α-hydroxyl-N-stearoylphytosphingosine, Caproyl sphingosine, Cetyl-PG Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide, Hexadecanamide or N-stearoyl sphinganine

Some products may also contain ceramide precursors such as phytospingosine. Ceramide precursors help the skin produce its own ceramide.

How can you combine ceramides with your products?

Ceramides, whether synthetic or natural, are very well tolerated and safe products. I have written a lot about different cosmetic ingredients. Ceramides are one of the basic, must-have ingredients in cosmetics. Ceramides cannot be replaced by any other substances. There is no equal active substance available.

Add ceramics and other natural skin ingredients such as moisturizing glycerol and skin-nourishing amino acids into your own products.

Use ceramides in creams, especially night creams and caring creams. Ceramides are also popular in hair care. Ceramides have a hair strengthening and moisturizing effect. Use ceramides in shampoos, conditioners and hair masks. Try ceramides especially for damaged hair.

What active ingredients have you tried for dry skin?

Artikkeli How ceramides can cure your dry skin? julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

What is MSM powder and how is it made?

MSM is a synthetic product that is manufactured by chemical industry.  Although it is of natural origin it does not exist as such anywhere so it must be specially prepared. Of course, the compound MSM is commonly found in pines, for example. Unfortunately, it is present in the wood in such small quantities that several trees should be felled down to get a pouch of MSM powder. Although many manufacturers claim their own MSM compound is made from plants, this is not true. MSM powder is made synthetically and is therefore not approved as an ingredient in natural cosmetics.

All commercially available MSM powder is currently prepared by the chemical reaction of DMSO and hydrogen peroxide. DMSO is dimethyl sulfoxide which is a by-product of the cellulose industry. By the way, did you know that vanillin is also a by-product of the pulp industry?

DMSO is an organosulfur compound used to improve the absorption of substances through the skin. DMSO has once been sold for external use for joint problems but has not been found to be safe. The researchers found that many of the healing effects of DMSO were due to the MSM it contained.

Initially, the MSM compound was used only externally in cosmetics. MSM only received marketing authorization as a dietary supplement much later in the 1990s. Thus, MSM is actually an active ingredient in cosmetics.

When choosing MSM powder, you should pay special attention to quality and purity

Because MSM powder is made from by-products of the cellulose industry, its purity is important. MSM powder is produced in countries where legislation does not control the industry (China and India). The product may contain harmful residues that will contaminate the product. The MSM powder is purified by a multiple distillation process. If the process is carried out carelessly, the risk of contamination increases.

In China and India, MSM is often only dissolved in water, dried and purified. Such a cleaning process does not guarantee a quality product. Mycelium and bacteria may also be present in the low quality MSM powder. Low quality MSM is not pure white but brown or reddish in colour.

When the MSM powder is distilled, it is heated up to 238 degrees, when the substance evaporates. The steam is cooled down to grains and redistilled several times. This removes all heavy metals from the product. MSM powders commonly sold in Finland are all purified in this way.

Benefits of MSM for the skin

MSM is a very versatile skin care active ingredient. It is useful for many skin problems. Although MSM is a fully synthetic ingredient, it is still very safe to use. There are only few cases when someone has been sensitized to MSM. Even then, it may be because of a contaminated product.

Here are a few reasons to use MSM powder in skin care

MSM allows the permeability of cell walls, allowing nutrients to enter and toxins to escape. MSM is able to easily penetrate the skin and pass through the skin throughout the body. For this reason, use only high quality MSM powder.

MSM affects collagen synthesis. Subcutaneous collagen takes care of the elasticity of the skin. MSM works best in conjunction with vitamin C. MSM reduces the disintegration of collagen under the skin.

MSM is an organic sulphur compound. Sulphur-containing compounds are useful in the treatment of skin inflammation. For acne, for example, MSM is particularly well suited. You should also try MSM cream for rosacea. There are really many creams available that contain MSM to treat acne and rosacea.

MSM helps scarred skin heal normally. If you have acne scars, pregnancy scars or surgical scars, try MSM ointment. MSM penetrates deep into the skin and promotes the formation of normal skin cells. If the scar tissue is still irritated and red, MSM soothes the inflammation. If the skin is still broken, do not use m MSM products on the skin.

MSM reduces itching of the skin. Itching is an embarrassing symptom in patients with eczema. However, do not use MSM creams on broken skin.

MSM has been found in some studies to increase hair growth and reduce hair loss. However, there is not enough evidence on this issue. In hair cosmetics, MSM compounds are used in combination with vitamin C. Hair loss can be caused by many different reasons. In almost all cases, MSM compounds do not bring relief. If the hair loss is profuse, you should consult a dermatologist.

How do I use MSM powder in homemade cosmetics?

The MSM compound is sold either as finished capsules or in a pouch as a powder. The finished capsules are convenient as they always contain the same amount. Dosing is easier and you do not need to weigh the powder. You can dissolve the powder in the finished products.

Here are some examples of where you can add MSM powder as an active ingredient.

• MSM is very soluble in warm water. It is at its best in all water-based products such as toners. For toners you can use MSM powder 1-2gr / 100ml of liquid.
• MSM is not the easiest cream ingredient. MSM is a solvent that easily degrades the structure of the cream. Therefore, always add MSM powder only to a single dose, about 0.05gr / dose. The number is really small. If you do not have such an accurate scale, drop a few crumbs of powder on your hand for one dose.
• MSM powder should be added to face masks, exfoliators and also to cleansing clay masks. MSM helps remove toxins deep from the skin.
• MSM is suitable for foot baths. It is sulphur-containing and disinfectant. Add about 3-5 grams (1 teaspoon) of MSM powder to the foot bath.
• Try MSM powder for powder deodorants. MSM acts as a sulphur-containing bacterium and reduces odour. Mix 3 grams of powdered MSM powder to whole set of powder deodorant.
• MSM is good for hair, scalp as well as nails and cuticles. Try mixing a little MSM powder with a single dose of conditioner. Leave on as instructed and rinse.

MSM is an active ingredient worth trying

There are few effective and safe active ingredients. Although MSM is a synthetic compound, it is a fairly safe and well-tolerated preparation. There are few such ingredients. You can see the effect of MSM almost immediately. I myself have found it to soothe the skin. I always use vitamin C powder along with MSM powder. The two compounds fit together seamlessly.

MSM is a fairly inexpensive product with many uses other than cosmetics. Personally, I also use MSM powder in smoothies and recovery drinks every day. You should start with small doses to get your body used to it.

Have you used MSM powder in skin care?

Artikkeli MSM; benefits in skin care julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Siloxanes are silicone-based compounds

Siloxanes are polymer-based compounds such as plastics. From plastics, siloxanes are separated by a silicon-oxygen chain. Siloxanes are by no means natural products. They are always made synthetically in chemical factories. Siloxanes are usually clear liquids. There are several different types of siloxanes.

Cyclomethicones are mainly used in cosmetics. Cyclomethicone is a mixture of 4D, 5D and 6D siloxanes. Dimethicone PDMS is also a common cosmetic ingredient. It is produced using 4D siloxane.

Siloxanes were considered safe for a long time and therefore they have been used as an cosmetics ingredient for a long time. Currently, the world produces about 400,000 metric tons of polysiloxanes annually. So, this is a massive business. The majority of this amount is used in cosmetics and other consumer products.

In addition to cosmetics, siloxanes can be found elsewhere in the home. Siloxanes are commonly used in polishing waxes, textile finishing products, shoe care and car care products etc.

Why are siloxanes used in cosmetics?

Siloxanes have been used in cosmetics to soften, smooth and moisturize skin and hair. Siloxanes also improve the properties of cosmetic products.

• Creams do apply better and feel “silky” on the skin.
• Roll-on deodorant glides easily on the skin thanks to siloxanes
• Hair products containing siloxanes dry quickly
• Siloxanes are important component in skin care products. Siloxanes cover small skin wrinkles and unevenness.

Siloxanes therefore play important role in cosmetics. Therefore, they are quite common in many products.

Siloxanes and the environment

Siloxanes are a problem for the environment. They are not biodegradable. Siloxanes are a sort of liquid plastic.

Solid silicone is not a problem for the body. In liquid form, silicone-based products are clearly more toxic. Siloxanes are able to be absorbed into tissues and cause problems for sea life. Scientists have not reached an agreement on the effect of siloxanes on water systems. For some reason, the siloxane content in the water has decreased but, in the fish, it has increased. No one can explain why.

The environmental effects of siloxanes in cosmetics have been studied to some extent objectively. Siloxanes used in cosmetics, such as cyclomethycones, are manufactured by one large multinational company only. The company is defending its own interests by constantly conducting studies of its own that overturn neutral research findings.

Siloxanes and health

Cyclomethycone accumulate in the body over time. It is feared to cause health problems in the future. The EU has been particularly concerned about the 4D and 5D siloxanes used in the manufacture of cyclomethycone.

4D siloxanes have been shown to interfere with human hormonal function and affect fertility.

5D siloxane is suspected to be associated with uterine tumours. 5D siloxane is also a hormonal problem and causes infertility.

In the EU and Canada, siloxanes have been classified as substances of very high concern

What does this concern mean in practice? In the EU, siloxanes are freely used in cosmetics but are being monitored. The situation is therefore the same as with microplastics.

In Canada, companies using siloxanes are required to report the matter to the Department of Health. However, the use of siloxanes is permitted and unrestricted.

If you are researching siloxanes from an INCI search, they are marked: no restrictions. However, this does not mean that siloxanes are harmless substances.

There has been virtually no progress in removing siloxanes from cosmetics products. Although siloxanes are clearly harmful to both the environment and humans, there are no decisions made.

Read more about toxic incredients

• How dangerous is talc?
• Polyethylene Glycol, PEG
• What is Formaldehyde?
• Microplastics in cosmetics

Get siloxane-free cosmetics

If you want to avoid siloxanes in cosmetics, carefully examine the ingredient list of your product. Makeup and haircare products in particular very often contain siloxanes. In make-up products and haircare products, siloxanes are almost irreplaceable.

I have many times heard following comment: if I can’t find such a good natural cosmetics product, I’ll go  back to basic cosmetics. At this point, you should take a moment to think about your values. Perfect makeup or hairstyle may not be possible without siloxanes. Could you compromise a little on your goals? Is the health of yourself and your environment important to you? However, would you get along without siloxanes?

Certified Natural Cosmetics does not contain siloxanes. Cosmetics certification bodies have not qualified siloxanes in any form for the products they approve.

Domestic small cosmetics workshops do make safe cosmetics without siloxanes. Small artisan workshops do not have the ability to obtain and maintain expensive certificates. Nevertheless, their products often even exceed the standards of natural cosmetics.

Do you like an organic cosmetic product instead of the usual cosmetics?

Artikkeli Siloxanes in cosmetics; why should you avoid siloxanes? julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant chemical

Caffeine is found in many different plants. However, large amounts of caffeine are found in only a few plants; tea bush, coffee, cola bush and cocoa beans. Caffeine in plants is highly soluble in water. The most typical way to take advantage of the cheery effect of caffeine is to make beverages from the aforementioned plants.

Pure caffeine is also produced synthetically. Synthetic caffeine is made using malonic acid and dimethyl urea.

Pure caffeine is often a by-product of industry

Commercial caffeine is rarely chemically produced. In general, pure caffeine is obtained as a by-product of the industrial process of decaffeinated products. The pure caffeine obtained is used in the soft drink industry and to caffeine tablets.

How is pure caffeine extracted?

When using caffeine products, it is worth paying attention to how pure caffeine is extracted. Caffeine is usually removed from coffee beans by extraction into water using various chemicals. Extraction can also take place using chemicals alone. Chemicals used in process are not very safe. Some of them are even carcinogenic.

Supercritical carbon dioxide can also be used to remove caffeine from coffee beans. In this method, carbon dioxide is maintained at a certain temperature and pressure to extract caffeine. The supercritical carbon dioxide method is the safest and least toxic extraction method for caffeine.

There are other methods for extracting caffeine from coffee beans. These include, for example, extraction with organic solvents or triglyceride oils.

Is regular coffee safe as a raw material for cosmetics?

The most popular way to use caffeine in homemade cosmetics is simply to make coffee. The caffeine extracted from the organic coffee powder using hot water is non-toxic. However, coffee contains plenty of other plant chemicals that can irritate the skin. So, it is better to test the effect of coffee on the skin.

You’ve certainly come across popular coffee scrub guidelines. In them, ground coffee is mixed with an oil and used to exfoliate the skin.

Coffee scrubs may not be very skin-friendly. Ground coffee is very coarse. It is not suitable for sensitive skin at all. Coffee scrub can damage the skin. If you want to try a coffee scrub, use it only on your body. Use only very finely ground coffee. Rub the skin very gently to avoid scratches on your skin.

Have you tried green coffee extract?

Coffee beans are also available unroasted. The colour of them is green. In addition to caffeine, unroasted coffee beans contain substances that are not present anymore in roasted beans. So, I recommend you to test green coffee instead of roasted black coffee in your products. Green coffee extract is commonly used in industrial cosmetics because of its beneficial effects.

Effects of green coffee extract on the skin

• Antioxidants; Green coffee beans are rich in a variety of plant chemicals that fight free radicals on the skin. The most famous of these is a powerful antioxidant, chlorogenic acid. In addition, green coffee extract is rich in a variety of polyphenols and flavonoids.
• Green coffee extract removes dead cells on the surface of the skin. This way the skin regains its youthful glow.
• Many anti-cellulite products contain green coffee extract. Green coffee extract is thought to stimulate skin metabolism and be effective against cellulite. Of course, the formation of cellulite is affected by many reasons.

You get these effects by using green coffee extract. The caffeine contained in coffee also has its own effects.

Caffeine is a very versatile ingredient in cosmetics

The popularity of caffeine in cosmetics is growing exponentially. The benefits of caffeine in skin care have been fully understood and caffeine is used in many products.

• Caffeine constricts blood vessels
• Caffeine lightens and brightens the skin. Use it to treat skin pigmentation disorders
• Caffeine works on dark eye areas. Therefore, caffeine is found in many eye creams.
• Caffeine soothes the skin and eliminates redness. Caffeine is used to soothe the skin after sunbathing.
• Caffeine improves blood circulation and lymph circulation when used externally. Therefore, caffeine should be tried in bath and foot care products.

Caffeine also has a few harmful properties for the skin

When caffeine is used, we must avoid over-use of it. Caffeine has at least two properties that can be harmful to the health of your skin.

Increased redness

Although the external use of caffeine soothes the skin and reduces redness, in some cases it can also cause redness. Redness is suspected to be caused by the skin getting used to caffeine. If the skin does not receive its regular dose of caffeine, it will start to turn red. It’s a pretty exciting thing that the skin can also get hooked on caffeine.

Decreased collagen production

Caffeine can interfere with collagen production. There are studies on this as well.  One of them is here.

The study finds that caffeine inhibits collagen synthesis on the skin. Collagen is a protein found on the skin. Collagen deficiency is seen on the skin as increasing wrinkles.

Young people with steady collagen production certainly have no worries. For aging skin, I would not recommend caffeinated cosmetics, at least for continuous use. However, the occasional use of caffeine products should not be harmful.

Artikkeli Caffeine in skin care julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

The rutin is a quite unknown plant chemical to many. However, it is a very effective substance that is definitely worth checking out. I have presented here on my blog usually herbs and other natural ingredients used in cosmetics. I have intentionally avoided bringing up only one active ingredient of a plant.  Now I am making an exception.  Rutin’s effect on the skin is very impressive. Read on to find out more about the gentle effects of the rutin on the skin.

What is a rutin?

The rutin, sometimes also called vitamin P, is a glucoside that is named after the plant garden rue (Ruta graveloens). The name refers strongly to fragrant. Garden rue is used as a spice, medicinal plant and decoration in gardens.

Rutin is polyphenol. I’ve told about polyphenols in the past here. Phenols are aromatic, organic compounds found all over nature. There are many different types of phenols. They are widely used by industry in synthesizing plastics and many other materials. Cosmetics industry has also utilized various plant phenols due to their beneficial effects on the skin.

Rutin is found in many plants

Rutin is a very common compound in many plants. Whatever herb you use, it most likely contains some rutin. Personally, I prefer to use real herbs for this very reason. At the same time, I get a lot of other useful compounds in the product.

The following plants have been studied to be particularly rich in rutin

• Capers (fresh) (Capparis spinosa) 332mg / 100gr
• Moringa oleifera leaf extract 60mg / 100gr
• Olive (Olea europaea), black (raw) 45mg / 100gr
• Buckwheat (Fagopyrum esculentum) 36mg / 100g
• Raspberry, red (Rubus idaeus), (fresh) 11mg / 100gr
• St. John’s wort (Hypericum perforatum)
• Gingo Biloba
• Hawthorn (Crataegus)
• Apple
• Indian burdock or amla (Emblica officinalis), concentration is unknown

Many of the plants listed above are not suitable as such for homemade cosmetics. Fresh capers or olives are almost impossible to obtain. Amla is available as a powder. However, it is far too acidic to use for skin care. Amla is used in skin care as an oil extract. The rutin is insoluble in oil.

Use familiar herbs as a source of rutin

Almost all natural herbs contain some rutin. However, rutin concentrations of natural herbs are not generally known. The rutin concentration in them varies very much due to the place of growth.

Marigold has been extensively studied. Rutin is one of the primary flavonoids of marigold. Chamomile also is particularly rich in rutin.

Citrus peel contains moderate amounts of rutin. However, use citrus cautiously in skin care. They are rich in strong plant chemicals that can easily damage the skin.

How rutin effects the skin?

The rutin has been studied really a lot lately. Many rutin health claims are proved to be fact through numerous studies. Rutin is very helpful, for example, in the treatment of cardiovascular diseases and allergies. Rutin mulberry berries are used in diets. We Finns can eat raspberries rich in rutin for the same purpose.

Effects of rutin on the skin

The effects of the rutin on the skin have also been studied. The rutin is a powerful antioxidant that protects the skin from aging. The rutin also helps the skin to produce collagen as well as make better use of vitamin C. Of course, an increase in collagen production means a reduction in the signs of aging on the skin.

The rutin strengthens surface blood vessels

One of the effects of rutin which is much praised is the ability to strengthen blood vessels. The rutin has been used for this purpose as a dietary supplement. It has also been found that the rutin is able to effectively strengthen and soothe the surface blood vessels of the skin.

The weakness of the surface blood vessels is easy to recognise due to spider-like patterns. Rutin products can help to improve the condition of surface blood vessels by strengthening the vessel walls. Rutin has also been found to reduce the permeability of skin blood vessels. Blood vessels are mainly collagen. Rutin along with vitamin C takes care of collagen formation.

Embarrassing rosacea on the skin often requires consultation with a dermatologist. However, you can reduce redness on your skin by using products containing rutin. The rutin works to soothe the skin, reducing inflammation.

If your problem is varicose veins, rutin can be helpful. Rutin, especially so-called oxerutin has been shown to have a positive effect on varicose veins.

Rutin is a very effective compound that should be used in skin care

All of the above properties make rutin one of the most important active ingredients in cosmetics. Rutin is rarely mentioned on the INCI list. However, if you use or make natural homemade cosmetics, it will inevitably be found in the products. The most common natural ingredients of cosmetics contain moderate amounts of rutin. You don’t have to pay much attention to the rutin content of your products. Only in the case of skin problems it is worth trying and adding rutin into your skin care products.

How is rutin extracted from herbs?

Rutin is a water-soluble substance. An herbal infusion is therefore the right way to extract rutin from plants into cosmetics. All phenols are water-soluble, so at the same time you have access to other active ingredients of the herb.

You can also mix herbs rich in rutin and other ingredients into a water-based face mask. Such a method is suitable, for example, for ground buckwheat. A particularly rutin-rich  moringa powder is also a really good addition to face masks. The powders should be mixed with water (not oil) as this will easily release the rutin from the plant.

  Thanks for reading my blog!

What active ingredients do you use in your products?

Artikkeli Rutin aka vitamin P in skin care julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

First of all, anyone who has prepared homemade cosmetics has added polyphenols to their products, with or without the knowledge of them. Another reason is the effective ability of polyphenols to affect the outer layers of the skin. Polyphenols do indeed produce positive effects in skin care. What are polyphenols and how can we use them in cosmetics? Let’s take a closer look.

What are polyphenols?

Polyphenols are mainly natural chemical compounds found in plants. The purpose of polyphenols is to protect the plant from getting spoiled, insects, ultraviolet radiation and microbes. Polyphenols are antioxidants.

There are plenty of polyphenols in almost all plants

Vegetables, fruits and berries classified as healthy contain significant amounts of polyphenols. A cup of coffee or tea contains up to 100mg of polyphenols. Evidence suggests that eating polyphenol-rich foods reduces the risk of getting chronic diseases. Polyphenols can also affect the skin externally.

Polyphenols in cosmetics

We can hardly find the word polyphenols on the packages of cosmetic products.  Still, almost all cosmetic products contain polyphenols, especially natural ones. All cosmetics containing genuine, plant-derived extracts will certainly also contain polyphenols.

Polyphenols have antioxidant effects

You must have come across cosmetics that are said to contain antioxidants. Antioxidants are a large group of substances that inhibit oxidation. In addition to polyphenols, vitamins do belong to the antioxidant group. Now we are only talking about polyphenols, because they have a very unique effect on the skin.

How do polyphenols affect your skin?

Polyphenols, when applied to the skin, act on the outer layers of the skin. Polyphenols in cosmetics can affect many skin problems that are right on the surface of the skin. Products containing polyphenols do not affect the deeper layers of the skin.

Polyphenols are potent antioxidants

They protect your skin from external stimulus such as sunlight. However, they cannot be used as actual protective sunscreen against ultraviolet radiation.  You need to get a functional, tested sunscreen from the shop. However, products containing polyphenols have been found to boost sunscreen’s effect on the skin.

The dark spots caused by strong sunlight on the skin can fade and even disappear when using effective polyphenols in skin care.

Polyphenols work well also in after-sun products

They inhibit the UV-exposed skin damage. Polyphenols control possible inflammation and cool down the skin after sunbathing.

Polyphenols are able to repair small signs of aging on our skin, such as fine wrinkles. The anti-aging effect of polyphenols is based on antioxidants as well as sunscreen ability. The antioxidants in polyphenols prevent oxidation on skin. You can read more about this here on NCBI article.

Polyphenols is a large group of plant chemicals.

There are more than 8000 different types of polyphenols. The best-known polyphenols are flavonoids.

Different polyphenols have different specific properties. I will now list a few polyphenols and plants containing them. There are always several different polyphenols in the same plant.

Flavonoids are the largest single group of polyphenols

Flavonoids are polyphenols that affect plant’s taste and what colour it is. About 60% of all polyphenols are flavonoids. They are therefore the main group of active ingredients extracted from herbs used in skin care products. Next, I will list some very useful flavonoids for you.

Tannins are astringent and bitter flavonoids.

Green tea and coffee contain plenty of tannins. They are also found in smaller quantities in rose plants. The astringent effect of tannins is based on their ability to precipitate proteins. You can use astringent, tannin-rich extracts, for example, in facial toners. Tannins reduce pores and make skin look firm. The use of coffee grounds in facial masks is a good idea. You can also make feet and hands scrubs from coffee containing tannins.

Blueberry and red cabbage are famous for their anthocyanin pigment

Anthocyanin is the most famous flavonoid. It is the pigment in blueberry and red cabbage. Dark grapes are also rich in anthocyanins. Anthocyanin is a particularly powerful antioxidant.

Raspberry and olive are rich in rutin

The rutin also belongs to the group of flavonoids. The rutin improves blood circulation. Rutin-containing extracts should be used when the purpose is to revitalize the skin’s blood circulation. The rutin also inhibits infections. Raspberries, buckwheat and fresh olives contain plenty of rutin.

Why use green tea in cosmetics?

EGCG is a flavonoid that is found especially in green tea. It is the most important active ingredient in green tea. Even a study of anticancer effect of EGCG is currently going on. EGCG protects the skin from the sun’s UV radiation.

EGCG has a particularly moisturizing effect on the skin

It is also a very effective antioxidant. You will get all these incredible effects to your cosmetic product when you use green tea. Green tea also contains other polyphenols which make it one of the best ingredients for skin care.

Polyphenolic amides are special types of polyphenols

Polyphenolic amides include burning capsaicinoids found in both paprika and chili, which are not commonly used in skin care. They suit better to herbal medicine to eliminate pain and aches. But oat avenanthramides, on the other hand, are particularly useful in skin care. I have previously written an article about oat, which can be found here.

How can I add polyphenols to homemade cosmetics?

Adding polyphenols to homemade cosmetics is really simple. Polyphenols are soluble in hot water and vinegar. All you have to do is make an infusion using your favourite herb. If you’ve ever prepared homemade cosmetics, you presumably should know how to do it. If you do not know how to do it, please take a look here.

You can add polyphenols easily to the lotion using the herbal infusion as a water phase. An herbal infusion made from camomile or nettle, is a good base for an emulsion lotion. You will get a lot of valuable polyphenols in your lotion. Chamomile is rich in polyphenol called apigenin. Apigenin rejects the signs of aging and protects the skin against harmful UV radiation.

Polyphenols help your skin in many ways

There is plenty of talk about the effect of antioxidants in our diet. We should eat berries, fruits, and vegetables to get these valuable substances to prevent our cells from oxidizing. On our skin, polyphenols are able to function about the same way.

Cosmetics containing polyphenols protect our skin from oxidation. Next time you prepare homemade cosmetics, please remember skin protecting polyphenols. The easiest way to get them to your products is to use different herbal infusions. So, look at the herbs you dried in the summer and extract valuable polyphenols out from them to protect your skin.

Have you used herbal infusions in cosmetics?

Artikkeli Polyphenols are skin protecting phytochemicals julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Glutamic acid is a very important ingredient in cosmetics

Glutamic acid is an amino acid, or a constituent of proteins. Glutamic acid used in cosmetics is a synthetic, industrial product. Even synthetic glutamic acid is not toxic. Most glutamic acid is used to flavour foods.

At one time in Japan glutamic acid was made from kombu kelp by bacteria. Almost all Japanese foods are flavoured with monosodium glutamate, which is related to glutamic acid.

Glutamic acid has become very popular

Glutamic acid has become very popular in cosmetics because of its skin consistence. Glutamic acid acts as a very effective moisturizer or humectant on the skin. Glutamic acid also helps to stabilize the pH of the skin.

Many cosmetic products use glutamic acid. Its INCI names are:

• Acidum Glutamicum
• E 620
• L-glutamic acid
• Amino Acid
• Glutamic acid

Glutamic acid acts like hyaluronic acid to moisturize the skin. Polyglutamic acid has been found to be even more potent moisturizer than hyaluronic acid. Glutamic acid is a humectant, it absorbs moisture from the skin and the outside air.

Where Can I Find Glutamic Acid?

We, homemade cosmetics makers do not have to purchase synthetic chemicals. Chemicals are concentrates and require professional scales as well as other measuring equipment for dosing. When making natural cosmetics, it is better to forget about synthetic chemicals and think where to find natural ingredients.

You can find glutamic acid in kelp

Especially, the kombu kelp is particularly rich in glutamic acid. In Japan, kombu kelp is used to make kelp broth, the Dashi. Dashi is added to Japanese soups to give a taste of umami. Glutamic acid is a non-toxic edible substance.

You can find kombu kelp in ethnic and Japanese grocery stores. It is a dried seaweed, which is a fairly well preserving product.

It is also worth of getting familiar with the kombu kelp use in kitchen. You can use kombu in salads and soups. It is really healthy and delicious. Do not leave any part of the kombu unused.

Kombu is rich in nutrients

At least the following vitamins and trace elements have been found in kombu seaweed. One 20 cm piece of Kombu contains roughly

• 200 mg of sodium
• 360 mg of potassium
• 4 percent of calcium
• 15 grams of magnesium
• Vitamins like C, A, E, K, B
• Iodine, iron, manganese and copper

How can you use kombu kelp in cosmetics?

In order to add glutamic acid to your products, you have to make a kombu broth. Kombu is very mineral-rich. It last well when boiled. So, boil about an hour on minimum heat, just let it boil gently. I used 1.5 litres of water for one kombu kelp.

Kombu infusion shelf life

Natural super moisturizer, Kombu infusion is very easy to make and use. You can keep the infusion for just about a week in the refrigerator. Then it’s time to make a new broth. If you want to use a preservative, the broth will be preserved about 3 months. As a frozen product, the kombu broth is convenient to use and most secure. You can freeze the kombu broth like ice cubes and defrost when needed.

The benefits of glutamic acid on the skin

The kombu infusion can be used in cosmetics in many ways.

• You can use the infusion as a moisturizing aqueous phase in your creams.
• You can use the infusion as a facial water. Kombu infusion is very soothing to the skin. The skin tolerates generally very well all kelp products.  You can apply many layers of facial water based on kombu kelp on your skin. Let the kelp water to dry on your skin before applying next layer.
• Kombu infusion suits well for bath water. Add 0.5 litre of broth to bath water. Kombu contains not only glutamic acid but also magnesium, in suitable form to the skin. The broth bath relaxes and helps you fall asleep. It also moisturizes the whole body without greasy creams.
• Kombu infusion is particularly popular as a foot bath. You can add 0.5 litre of broth to water and 1 tablespoon of sea salt. You will get a very refreshing foot bath that moisturizes and cares for your skin. Salt also softens hard skin that is easier to remove.

Benefits of glutamic acid for hair

Glutamic acid also works in hair care. In addition to glutamic acid, Natural super moisturizer, Kombu infusion, contains many other ingredients that benefit your hair

• The kombu suits very well for hair care. You can use kombu as part of your hair care routine. Traditional Japanese Funori hair wash powder is made partly from kombu powder.
• Kombu infusion is great for rinsing hair. As a mineral-rich product, Kombu infusion treats the scalp, balances fat production, moisturizes hair, has antibacterial properties, soothes irritated scalp, makes hair feel soft (moisture)…
• Kombu infusion contains the same types of mucilage as linseed. Kombu infusion rinsing makes the hair feel voluminous and soft.
• The polysaccharides of kombu infusion leave a protective layer on the hair surface.

Warning!

Some people are sensitive to some amines and especially glutamate. For example, glutamates are present in flavour enhancers such as seasoned salt. In cases of hypersensitivity, kelp should also be avoided. Some tolerate kelp externally when applied to the skin but not in food. However, first test the seaweed for your skin.

Try the kombu on your own cosmetic products

Natural super moisturizer, Kombu gives you many other active ingredients in addition to glutamic acid. That is why I strongly recommend you to try a kombu. Especially on dry, mid-winter skin, kombu kelp brings a new glow.

Let us know how glutamic acid works on your skin! Please add your comments in the comment box below!

Artikkeli Glutamic Acid, Natural Super Moisturizer for Dry Skin julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.