What are polysorbates?

Polysorbates are a large group of different chemicals. Polysorbates are always manufactured in chemical factories. They are never natural. Polysorbates are used in cosmetics, for example, as emulsifiers, surfactants and fragrance ingredients.

Polysorbate is treated with ethylene oxide (ethoxylation) after which the substance is combined with fatty acids.

There are many different types of polysorbates. Different polysorbates are separated from each other by a number. The number after polysorbate indicates the number of ethylene oxides.

Polysorbates used in cosmetics

The most familiar polysorbates in cosmetics are polysorbate-60 (Tween 60) and polysorbate-20 (Tween 20). There are many other polysorbates used in cosmetics. These two are just examples.

Polysorbate-60 is made from sorbitol and lauric acid. Polysorbate-20 is made by ethoxylation of sorbitan monolaurate. Both products are treated with ethylene oxide, meaning that they undergo an ethoxylation process.

These two polysorbates are commonly used as emulsifiers to combine water with oil. Polysorbate-80 is soluble in water and oil but not in glycerine. Polysorbate-20 is soluble in water and glycerine but only partially in oil (cloudiness). Therefore, the purpose of these two in cosmetics is slightly different. Polysorbate-20 is suitable, for example, for dissolving essential oils in water. Polysorbate-20 is also an ingredient in toners, mascaras, and foundation. Polysorbate-60 is used as an actual emulsifier in creams, for example.

Polysorbate-80 is commonly used in cosmetics as a washing ingredient. It is generally found in shower gels and shampoos. Polysorbate-80 is also a very common ingredient in vaccines. All polysorbates are also generating the foam in the product.

Polysorbate-80 and polysorbate-20 are both cold process emulsifiers. Cold process emulsifiers are very popular in industry. The hot process consumes an incredible amount of energy when the product is manufactured on an industrial scale like several tons. The hot product also needs to be cooled down, which in turn takes time and energy. The cold process does not have these problems at all.

Polysorbate-20 is suitable not only for cosmetics, but also for food such as ice cream and salad dressings.

Are polysorbates harmful?

Polysorbate itself is not harmful. The problems with polysorbates are related to the ethoxylation process. The risks are related to contamination. When polysorbate is ethoxylated, it can be contaminated with dangerous, carcinogenic substances.

What does contamination mean?

Contamination means the contamination of a product with unwanted or toxic substances. A contaminated product has been contaminated unintentionally. No one has intentionally added a toxic substance to the product. The toxic substance has been formed into the product during the manufacturing process. The manufacturing process should ensure that the final product is as clean as possible and contains only the chemicals that were supposed to be in there. If the cleaning process has been handled carelessly, many harmful compounds may remain in the final product. It is impossible for the manufacturer of the final product to say whether the ingredients he uses are completely pure or not. The cosmetics manufacturer should only rely on the supplier of the ingredient(s).

The biggest concerns about polysorbate are its carcinogenicity due to ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxin. The same substances also cause skin allergies and problems with reproductive health and development. As always, researchers completely disagree about the carcinogenicity of polysorbates. There are many different studies for and against of the issue. Polysorbates have therefore been studied extensively.

Compounds that cause cancer and allergies

Several studies have found that polysorbates enhance the effects of known carcinogenic substances, even if they are not carcinogenic. The effects of polysorbates have been studied mainly in food, but not so much on the skin. Polysorbates are feared to cause problems with intestinal bacterial growth and to be partially a contributing factor to intestinal cancer and other intestinal problems.

Polysorbate-80, which is found in vaccines, has also been extensively studied because it is suspected of causing problems for certain groups of people.

Polysorbate-20 has been found to cause allergies, irritation, and skin sensitization. The same problem exists with polysorbate-85.

How to avoid polysorbates?

Polysorbates have not been found to be toxic substances. They are not dangerous as such. However, if you want to avoid contaminated ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxin, you should avoid polysorbates not only in food but also in cosmetics.

Use natural cosmetics

Currently, no polysorbates may be used in certified natural cosmetics. Therefore, purchasing certified natural cosmetics is a safe choice.

There are also many small cosmetics artisans workshops whose products are free of polysorbates and other synthetic ingredients. It is worth checking out the ÍNCI list of these products. If a product has strange ingredients whose meaning you do not understand, leave the product on the shelf.

Use anhydrous products

I recommend choosing anhydrous products. Anhydrous products usually do not contain emulsifiers or preservatives. I said “usually” because nowadays you can’t be sure about anything anymore. For example, water-free cleansing oils often contain emulsifiers and even preservatives. Similarly, many bulk products nowadays do also contain preservatives and other chemicals.

Make your own cosmetics

By making your own products, you can be sure of what the product contains. Homemade cosmetics are usually very simple, water-free cosmetics that don’t contain many ingredients. That’s why homemade cosmetics are so safe.

If you want to make emulsions, you have so many completely safe emulsifiers to choose from. You don’t necessarily ever need polysorbate, even if you make products that contain water. The familiar Olivem 1000 is a good and versatile emulsifier that is also completely safe to use. Most probably, you can find other, also safe options for emulsifiers from online stores selling cosmetic raw materials.

Do you check the INCI list when buying cosmetics?

Artikkeli Polysorbates julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

What are cosmetic gums?

Natural cosmetic gums are made from many different plants and even bacteria. There are also synthetic cosmetic gums, but we will not talk about them in this article.

Natural gums are polymers. Polymer might make you think of plastic. Plastic is also a polymer, but a synthetic one. Polymer refers to the repeating structure of a matter. Natural gums consist of polysaccharides. Polysaccharides cooperate with water. This means that the products in which you want to use cosmetic gums must also contain water in order for the cosmetic gum to work as desired. Natural gum absorbs water molecules and thickens the product.

There are many natural cosmetic gums

Most home cosmetics makers have only come across with the xanthan gum. Different gums have their own characteristics. None of these gums form a gel on their own. The result is more like a jelly. When combined with other gums, you can also create soft, gel-like structures.

However, there are a lot of gums. I really do not want to go through all of them here, there are simply too many of them.  I will highlight a few of the most common cosmetic gums here.

Xanthan gum

INCI name: Xanthan gum

Xanthan gum is a very easy gum to handle. It is also the easiest one to find. Food-grade xanthan gum is also available in normal grocery stores on the baking shelf. Food-grade xanthan gum is well suited to produce homemade cosmetics. Regular xanthan gum forms a slightly turbid gel. Turbidity does not matter unless you want to make a completely clear gel. Especially in creams, ordinary xanthan gum works great as a thickener and gel former. You can combine xanthan gum with almost every other natural gums.

Xanthan gum is produced by aerobic fermentation from the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Xanthan gum can be heated or processed in cold processes. It is not very accurate in terms of pH.

There is also xanthan gum which forms a completely clear gel. Clear xanthan gum is specifically intended for cosmetics, not for the food industry. It has also sometimes been available in Finnish online stores selling cosmetic raw materials. The third type of xanthan gum is soft xanthan gum. It is also cosmetic-quality xanthan gum, which was developed specifically for the needs of cosmetics. Soft xanthan gum gives a very pleasant skin feel in creams. It may be little more difficult to find soft xanthan gum.

Konjac gum

INCI Name: Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extrac

Konjac gum comes from Asia. In Japan, konjac gum is also used as food, like pasta. Facial cleansing sponges made of konjac gum are also familiar to many. They also come from Japan, where they have traditionally been used to wash babies’ delicate skin.

Konjac gum is extracted from the tuber of the Amorphophallus konjac plant. Konjac gum is a white powder that can be mixed with either cold or hot water. The gel formed by konjac gum is brighter than that of xanthan gum. Konjac gum is suitable for both acidic and alkaline products. It works very well with the other cream ingredients and is heat resistant.

Read more about the konjac plant: Konjac sponge and glucomannan

Locust bean gum

INCI name: Ceratonia Siliqua Gum

Locust bean gum is made from the dried seeds of the carob tree that grows in the Mediterranean region. The plant is also known as carob. Locust bean gum is not the same as carob powder sold as a cocoa substitute. Also, the carob tree from the Mediterranean should not be confused with the carob tree (Parkia biglobosa) that grows in Africa. They are too different plants. Locust bean gum is light in colour, slightly yellowish. Locust bean gum is easy to handle when making cosmetics. When combined with, for example, xanthan gum, it forms stable jellies.

Locust bean bags are quite difficult to get in Finland. You can find them quite often from international online stores.

How are cosmetic gums used?

Using cosmetic gums is both easy and challenging at the same time. What I mean by this is that it is relatively easy to add any kind of gum to your product. The gum is usually mixed with glycerol and added to the emulsion or gel by stirring. You can also add gums directly as a powder to the product. Then you should have an efficient mixer that spins at high speeds.

Working with gum becomes challenging if you are looking for a certain skin-feeling or a precise structure for your product. Creating a pleasant-feeling, clear gel is demanding. This is exactly why commercial products use a lot of synthetic gel formers. Synthetic gel formers are in reality liquid plastic but very easy to formulate. Working with natural ingredients is always more demanding. Also remember that your product may become thinner depending on, for example, the hydrolat or preservative used. That’s why I can’t say the amount of gum needed very precisely. You have to experiment yourself with the correct dosage of gums.

Learn to mix different types of gum

It is especially difficult to learn the correct mixing ratios when you use different gums together. Only patient practicing helps with this problem. The correct dosage depends on what other ingredients your product contains and what product you are making. For emulsion creams, gums are usually used at 0.1-0.5%. This is such a small amount that you need a very accurate scale. You need more gum for washing gels and gel serums. Dosing the gum depends entirely on how thick gel you want to create and which cosmetic gum or gum mixture you will use.

I personally like to mix different cosmetics gums. In my own products, one of the gums I use often is xanthan gum. Xanthan gum is not the most popular gum in cosmetics for a reason. It’s really easy to work with. Especially if you make emulsions, the number one choice for cosmetics gum is xanthan gum. Xanthan gum does not require heating, but heating does not harm it either.

What products can cosmetic gums be used for?

Cosmetic gums are so-called thickeners. They add viscosity to the product so that it forms a gel-like structure.

It is worth using cosmetic gums in emulsion creams. They stabilize the emulsion and support the emulsifier. This does not mean that adding gum to the emulsion necessarily makes it completely stable. The stability of an emulsion depends on so many different factors. Use gums for emulsion cream 0.1-0.5% or even more. By experimenting, you can find a suitable mixture.

Use the gums to make oil-free serums. Gel serums feel pleasant on the skin and are easy to apply. I would use gum for gel serum about 0.5%. But even here you must remember that the viscosity depends so much on the other ingredients used and the amount of them.

Washing gels are popular and easy to make yourself. The natural gums mentioned for cosmetics use are very suitable for them. For washing gel, you can already use more gum, about 0,5-2%, depending on the gum and other ingredients.

Tell us about your own experiences of working with cosmetic gums. Which natural cosmetic gum is your favorite?

Artikkeli Natural Cosmetic gums julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

This article belongs to the series “Dirty Dozen of Cosmetics”. In this series, I am taking about harmful chemicals commonly found in cosmetics. This time we take a closer look at parabens; what they are and why they are harmful.

Parabens are preservatives in cosmetics

Parabens are esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid. The most common parabens are ethyl paraben, methyl paraben, propyl paraben and butyl paraben.

Parabens are very effective preservatives. They are used in cosmetics, detergents and even foodstuffs. Parabens effectively inhibit the growth of bacteria and mould in various products.

In which products are parabens used?

Most water-based hygiene- and cosmetic products contain a paraben-based preservative. Parabens are not allowed in certified natural cosmetics. Parabens are also generally not used as a preservative by small non-certified natural cosmetics producers.

Parabens also occur in nature. For example, blueberry contains methyl paraben. It is blueberry’s own preservative. However, paraben levels in natural products are really low. Harmful levels of parabens are obtained from cosmetics and hygiene products such as shower soaps.

Why should parabens be avoided?

Preservatives are absolutely essential in many products. Preservatives ensure product safety. Without the preservative, the product would be spoiled in a few days. Parabens are definitely a better thing than no preservative at all.

According to official recommendations, a person can tolerate parabens 10mg / day per kilogram of body weight without a risk of getting ill. This is quite a huge amount. There are, of course, many views on this. The industry does not want to give up an effective preservative and the research results are in line with that. Once parabens have been found to be harmful in some studies, the industry immediately conducts its own study in which they are found to be completely safe. It is entirely up to the authorities what studies are relevant. That is why we consumers must be awake.

Only one paraben at a time has been used in studies on the harmfulness of parabens. In reality, products always contain several different parabens at the same time. The interaction of different parabens has not been adequately studied.

The problems of parabens also continue in nature. Paraben decomposition residues are highly toxic and harmful to both nature and humans.

Parabens are irritating and sensitizing ingredients

Parabens are very common preservatives. If you use non-natural cosmetic products bought from supermarket, it is virtually impossible to avoid them. The majority of the population is exposed to parabens on a daily basis. Although parabens are not actually allergenic, sensitization is very common. Because the body is so often exposed to parabens, paraben allergy is very common. In general, changing a cosmetic product does not help because parabens are found in almost every product. Only Natural Cosmetics does not contain parabens. Even then, you should make sure that the manufacturer uses only ingredients that are allowed in natural cosmetics. ECOCERT and COSMOS certificates are the most reliable guarantee of product quality. The products of small natural cosmetics manufacturers are quite often paraben-free but unfortunately not always.

Parabens cause hormonal disorders

The main concern for parabens is their estrogenic properties. Parabens have been classified as weak xenoestrogens. Xenoestrogens are substances that mimic oestrogens. Xenoestrogens are harmful to health. They interfere with hormonal function by advancing puberty. Therefore, products containing parabens intended for children should definitely be avoided. Denmark has banned parabens in products for children under 3 years of age.

Xenoestrogens increase the mucosa of the uterus, causing endometriosis. Xenoestrogens also cause a painful condition in the uterus called adenomyosis.

The effect of xenoestrogens has been studied among other things in reproduction of fish. Xenoestrogens were found to interrupt the normal development of fish genitals. The fish could no longer reproduce. Xenoestrogens also affect men’s health. It has been speculated that the decrease in sperm count in men may be due to exposure to xenoestrogens in uterus.

Some parabens are more harmful than others. It has been found that different paraben groups have varying degrees of estrogenic activity. Therefore, Isopropyl paraben, isobutyl paraben, phenyl paraben, benzyl paraben and pentyl paraben were banned by the EU decision.

Environmental hazards of parabens

Parabens are abundant in cosmetics and hygiene products such as shower soaps and shampoos. Some parabens are absorbed through the skin into the body. Most are flushed down the drain and end up in water. Parabens are relatively rapidly biodegradable. In wastewater treatment plants, parabens are either removed, chemically modified, or released into the environment with the sludge. 40-98% of parabens can be removed from wastewater. Parabens are a major environmental problem in countries where the wastewater problem has not yet been solved. Fortunately, parabens decompose rapidly in nature.

The use of shampoo and shower gel in natural water systems is a problem. Parabens and other chemicals in shampoos are harmful to fish and algae. Therefore, hair should never be washed using any kind of detergent or shampoo in a lake, river or sea. Always wash your hair in proper place and make sure the wastewater is properly treated.

The decomposition products of parabens react sensitively with chlorine

Parabens decompose relatively quickly. However, their degradation products are quite problematic. When parabens enter the sewer with wash water, they often come into contact with choral compounds. Remember that even tap water is chlorinated. Sodium hypochlorite is used in the disinfection of wastewater treatment plants. Chlorinated parabens are no longer biodegradable. They are removed with the treatment plant sludge to the fields. Chlorinated parabens in sludge will remain for a long time.

Chlorinated parabens are many times more harmful than the original parabens.

Chlorinated parabens tend to accumulate in cell membranes. Decomposition products of parabens cause, among other things, abnormal development of the foetus.

Decomposition products of parabens also cause problems for the environment. If sludge containing decomposition products of parabens is applied to fields, it is easily drained into ditches and thus into water systems. The chemical is very toxic and easily destroys various algal species.

Read more about the harmful ingredients in cosmetics

Siloxanes in cosmetics; why should you avoid siloxanes?

How Dangerous is Talc

Nanomaterials in cosmetics

Polyetyleeniglykoli, PEG

How can I avoid parabens?

As I said at the beginning, up to 90% of cosmetic products contain parabens. Preservatives must be used to make cosmetics safe. Parabens have been replaced by phenoxyethanol, for example, in cosmetics.

Learn to read the INCI list

By law, products cannot be labelled “free of parabens”. This rule was created because parabens are completely allowed to be used in the cosmetics industry. If you know INCI names, you can try to look for parabens in the ingredients of the product. There are 25 parabens in the INCI search. Parabens are easy to identify from the list of ingredients.

Use certified natural cosmetics

Eco-certified natural cosmetics do not contain parabens. For example, the prestigious ECOCERT and COSMOS standards do not allow the use of parabens in certified products. Parabens are preferred preservatives and are used in products for the masses. It is desired that the product remains usable for up to years. Natural cosmetics are more expensive because high quality and safe ingredients cost more. The shelf life of natural cosmetics is also shorter because the products do not contain strong preservatives.

Anhydrous products

No preservative will take care of your skin. All preservatives are useless or harmful. A completely preservative-free, anhydrous product is always a better option. Therefore, prefer anhydrous products whenever possible.

Anhydrous creams, butters and balms are generally preservative-free. Even bar (soap bar etc) products usually do not contain parabens. Ordinary, familiar and safe soap bar is the best alternative to liquid shower soap. Many small cosmetics manufacturers make preservative-free cosmetics by leaving the water out from the product.

Anhydrous products should always be applied to well-moisturized skin. This way they work on the skin just like products containing water.

Parabens should be taken seriously

Parabens are one of the most harmful chemicals in everyday cosmetics. So seriously consider how to replace products containing parabens in your home. Parabens are especially harmful to children.

Parabens accumulate in the skin in large amounts during the day from various products. They are found in every liquid hand soap and hand creams. If you are starting to reduce parabens, I recommend replacing your liquid soap with a bar of soap. Even a small change can make a big difference.

Are you worried about parabens?

Artikkeli Dirty Dozen of Cosmetics; Parabens julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

This article is part of a series of “dirty dozen in cosmetics”. In the series, I present to you 12 meanies of cosmetics. I have written earlier an article about formaldehyde releasers. Why have PEG compounds ended up in a dirty dozen? Are PEG compounds really harmful? Let’s find out now!

What is PEG or polyethylene glycol?

Polyethylene glycol is a synthetic chemical that is made in chemical plants. It is a polyether refined  from crude oil. Thus, PEG does not belong to natural cosmetics nor to vegan cosmetics. PEG is not just one compound. It has been used to make thousands of different variations. PEG compounds are widely used by several industries

• In the pharmaceutical industry, including vaccines and laxatives, as well as films on tablets
• In the chemical industry
• In the cosmetics industry, skin creams, lotions, toothpastes, mouthwashes, deodorants among others. PEG compounds are very common in all cosmetics products.
• In cleaning chemicals such as laundry detergents, laundry rinse aids, dishwashing detergents, general detergents, etc.
• In paints and dyes
• In the food industry, like as an antifoam in beverages

How do I know if a product contains PEG compounds?

PEG compounds are widely and plentiful used in the cosmetics industry and for very different purposes. There are 1464 of them in the INCI list. It is self-clear that no-one can remember them all. However, PEG compounds are quite easy to find in the INCI product list. The INCI name for PEG compounds always or almost always includes the abbreviation PEG.

Why should PEG compounds be a concern?

PEG compounds alone are completely non-toxic. They have been found to be safe excipients even for vaccines and foods. Indeed, the problems with PEGs are related to their potential impurities. PEG compounds are prepared by a complex process. Depending on the manufacturing method, polyethylene glycol may be very impure. Toxic ethylene dioxide and 1,4-dioxane may be found in a low-quality product.

Ethylene dioxide

Ethylene dioxide is a carcinogen to humans. It has been linked in some studies to breast cancer. It has also been found to damage the human nervous system and cell development. Ethylene dioxide is very harmful when inhaled. Therefore, sprayable detergents should never be used. Many cleaners and housekeepers have been diagnosed with lung cancer due to inhaling cleaning chemicals. Ethylene dioxide is also absorbed very well even through clothing and shoes, causing irritation and dermatitis.

1,4-dioxane

1,4-dioxane is a substance that is toxic to humans. 1,4-dioxane damages the liver and kidneys. Inhaling and swallowing it causes malaise, vomiting, drowsiness and even unconsciousness. 1,4-dioxane is very easily absorbed through the skin into the body. Dioxane is not easily biodegradable but accumulates in groundwater.

Dioxin is highly soluble in water and ends up in the water systems and seas. The fish in the Baltic Sea have been rich in dioxins. The good news is that dioxin levels in fish have declined as much as 80% in recent years thanks to the vigilant environmental authorities. The study shows that current restrictive measures have been effective.

PEG compounds enhance the absorption of other substances into the skin

This is a desirable effect but it  can also be a disadvantage if the product is very impure. The effects of impurities in PEG compounds are multiplied if applied to broken skin. For example, if your skin has a rash, abrasion or other irritation, you should use products that are as clean as possible.

It is also possible that dioxane may also end up in cosmetics through some other way than impurities in PEG compounds. That is why I always recommend you to use and make only natural cosmetics.

PEG compounds may cause allergies

Another concern is the potential allergies caused by PEG compounds. Because PEG compounds are so common in foods, detergents, and cosmetics, the potential for sensitization is obvious. Indeed, PEG antibodies have already been detected in 72% of the US population.

How many of us have considered PEG compounds to cause the allergy to cosmetics?  You can test your sensitivity to PEG compounds yourself by leaving them out of your cosmetics, detergents and diet for a while. The medicines you use may also contain PEG compounds. You can only change medicines by consulting your doctor.

The purity of PEG compounds is closely monitored in the EU

The European Union pays special attention to the safety of chemicals. In Europe, PEG compounds are also closely monitored. So you don’t have to worry too much about the levels of 1,4-dioxane or ethylene dioxide in the products you use, provided of course that you purchase your cosmetics from the EU.

My main concern would be the products ordered online from outside the EU. In them, the concentrations of harmful substances can be anything.

In this context, I can again warmly recommend you the DIY cosmetics. By making your own cosmetics, you know what chemicals are in your product. Also, domestic Natural Cosmetics is also very high quality and free of all potentially harmful chemicals.

Do you avoid PEG compounds?

Artikkeli Polyethylene glycol, PEG julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Glucomannan is a particularly versatile raw material for cosmetics. However, its use in homemade cosmetics is limited. I myself have actually favoured glucomannan in my own cosmetics for many years. I found it by chance in a sports nutrition store. Glucomannan is a versatile, easy and very stable raw material to boot inexpensive. I’ve tested many different glucomannan cosmetics formulas. Now I will share everything I have learned here with you. You really should utilize such a good and safe raw material.

Glucomannan is a pure natural product

Glucomannan is a fibre obtained, for example, from the konjac plant. It is the same plant that is the raw material for konjac sponges- Visit my article on konjac sponges and glucomannan. Pure glucomannan fibre is used both in foodstuff and as a dietary supplement.

In addition to the roots of the konjac plant, glucomannan is also obtained from the roots of other plant like orchids.

Glucomannan is a cosmetic excipient

In this article, I will focus on glucomannan as a cosmetic adjuvant. Glucomannan is a thickener. It forms a gel from any aqueous liquid. If you use oils in the formula, you should also include an emulsifier. Glucomannan does not act as an emulsifier and the oil does not mix with water. Glucomannan cannot and should not be used for anhydrous products.

Glucomannan is a very stable substance. You can use it both in acidic and neutral as well as basic formulas.  You can also safely heat the gel containing glucomannan at 80 degrees Celsius for 30 minutes to ensure the shelf life of the product.

Glucomannan mixes well with water and other liquids. It does not clump easily like so many other natural thickeners. However, you should stir the glucomannan mixture from time to time during the preparation process. This will ensure that the gelation is even.

Glucomannan is a skin moisturizing ingredient

Glucomannan is a polysaccharide that combines mannose and glucose. Polysaccharides are especially good for moisturizing dry skin. I have written previously about polysaccharides such as seaweed polysaccharides, from oat beta glucan and pectin.

Glucomannan is a prebiotic

Healthy skin always has a rich and well-being microbiome, the natural bacterial strain. Glucomannan is a polysaccharide and at the same time a good breeding ground for the skin’s natural microbes. Bacteria use polysaccharides as food. In Japan, the konjac plant has been used for hundreds of years to make shirataki noodles. According to Japanese studies, glucomannan in shirataki noodles treats the intestinal flora.

Glucomannan also works in hair care

Glucomannan gives hair volume. By adding a little glucomannan to the hair rinse, you will get a nice texture and volume to your hair. The result is not sticky at all. I have made hair styling products and hair rinses from glucomannan. You can also make a thick and firm hair gel from glucomannan. In hair gel, glucomannan acts like linseed mucus. However, glucomannan gel is easier to prepare from the powder.

How do I use glucomannan in cosmetics?

Glucomannan is suitable as a thickener in liquid products. The properties of glucomannan also include a moisturizing effect on the skin. The use of polysaccharides in cosmetics is precisely based on the moisturizing effect. Glucomannan effectively treats the skin microbiome. Therefore, it is well suited for prebiotic and probiotic cosmetics.

Glucomannan is commonly sold as a dietary supplement. Previously I used to order it as a clean, loose powder. Only glucomannan capsules are now available. The capsules proved to be quite convenient in use. Open the capsule and use only the powder.

Each capsule contains 0.5 grams of pure glucomannan powder. So, you don’t have to measure ultra-small amounts. Half a gram sounds like a very small dose. However, very little glucomannan is needed. With one content of glucomannan capsule, you can make up to 500 ml of toner or hair rinse. Of course, more is needed for thicker gels.

Glucomannan as a thickener

You can thicken toners and lotions with glucomannan powder. Glucomannan gives the toner a pleasant gel-like structure. In creams, glucomannan acts as an emulsifier support. Glucomannan gives the emulsion a gel-like structure and increases the moisturizing effect. Glucomannan significantly improves the structure of the emulsion. Especially in very thin creams a thickener is quite a must.

Glucomannan works well with acids, bases and even salts. Hydrolats and essential oils are also compatible with the same product as glucomannan. So, you can use glucomannan without worries in all your products.

Glucomannan acts slowly

Please note that glucomannan swells slowly in the liquid. You can notice that the product has thickened in as little as 30 minutes. The final situation will not be clear until 12 hours later. Therefore, it is very important to use glucomannan powder very sparingly. I have tested some cosmetic formulas. For these guidelines, see how little glucomannan powder is actually needed.

Examples of dosing of glucomannan powder

Dosage of glucomannan in toner; 1 gram of glucomannan powder is mixed with a litre of liquid. This type of toner is pleasant to the skin. I’ve done a toner of 500 millilitres (1/2 litre) of water. I then used 0.5 grams of glucomannan (content of one capsule).

Dosage of glucomannan in creams; the dosage depends very much on how thin or thick cream you want. Glucomannan should not be used plentiful. If used excessively, the cream can easily become sticky and lumpy. Too much glucomannan easily deposits on the skin. The cream is also no longer applied properly. Usually, I use 500 ml of liquid 0.5 grams (one capsule contents) of glucomannan powder. In case I don’t need all the liquid for the cream, I use the rest as a hair rinse or toner.

Dosage of glucomannan powder to face masks; you will need 0.5 grams of glucomannan powder and 50 ml of liquid. After just 30 minutes, the mask is ready to be applied on the skin. If I let the face mask swell overnight only the half of the glucomannan powder is needed.

Caution in the making products containing glucomannan

Glucomannan is an easy and safe ingredient. Nevertheless, it also has its weaknesses. If you have dosed too much glucomannan, the product will easily become a solid clump. The clump cannot be restored. That is why I recommend that you first dose glucomannan powder very carefully.

Dose glucomannan moderately. If the composition appears thin, do not immediately add glucomannan. Wait overnight and check again. Probably the product now has the desired composition. You can easily add glucomannan to the finished product as well.

How do you thicken your cosmetic formula?

Artikkeli Glucomannan; tips for using glucomannan powder in cosmetics julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

What is Sodium Lauryl Sulfate?

SLS or Sodium Lauryl Sulfate or Sodium Laureth Sulfate is a very versatile chemical. It is produced using either mineral oil or vegetable oils such as coconut oil or palm oil. SLS is chemically processed from lauryl alcohol and sulfuric acid. Then the chemical is neutralized with sodium carbonate aka washing soda.

SLS is a surfactant which are very versatile chemicals. They remove tension from the surface of the water.  When the surface tension is removed, the water can penetrate deeper and wider. The surfactants are extremely detergent, meaning they remove grease and other dirt effectively.

SLS has amphiphilic properties

This means that SLS acts as an emulsifier. Water and oil form a cream when adding SLS to the mixture.

SLS is very foamy. It forms a thick, durable foam in all products to which it has been added.

SLS is one of the most common chemicals in cosmetics

Due to its versatile features, SLS is very popular. It is found in all cosmetic products, from shampoos and shower soaps to moisturizers and cleansing milks. You will also find SLS in regular toothpastes.

It is very difficult to come up with a product that SLS would not fit. Cosmetics industry simply needs this substance with so many required properties.

How SLS affects skin and hair?

SLS is a well-tolerated ingredient

SLS is suitable for the skin because it causes little to no allergies or hypersensitivity. If you are sensitized to any cosmetic ingredient it is probably not SLS but some other ingredient. The cosmetics industry has decades of experience in the suitability of SLS for skin care. It has been found to be safe in principle and is therefore used as the very first option when adding detergents to the product.

Persons who are intolerant to plant-based products may well tolerate SLS. SLS has also not been identified as a carcinogenic chemical.

Although SLS does not actually cause sensitization, it does not mean it a safe ingredient for the skin.

So why is SLS not a good ingredient in cosmetics?

SLS is a powerful dehydrator

SLS is also a highly detergent ingredient. Therefore, it dries the skin, sculp and hair. SLS is the only ingredient in shampoos that makes your hair “crunchy”. It is very difficult to achieve a similar washing result with any other cosmetic ingredient.  We are used to use strong washing shampoos and detergents throughout our lives so we are also used to get the “crunchy” result.

SLS is best tolerated in shower soaps, gels and shampoos because it is rinsed off quickly. This will reduce the skin irritation.

Household Cleaners and Laundry Detergents

SLS is also commonly used in household cleaners and laundry detergents. It is worth considering whether the same chemical is suitable for washing skin, hair, teeth, floor and laundry – and car.

In shower soaps and gels, the unnecessarily strong washing effect of SLS is diluted by adding oils to the product. The cosmetics industry talks about curative shower products. My question is why SLS is used at all if it causes skin problems.

SLS as an emulsifier for creams

SLS is one of the most stable and effective emulsifiers. It is also very affordable. When purchasing home cosmetics emulsifiers, avoid emulsifying wax. All emulsifying waxes are made from SLS. The emulsifying wax is a very drying ingredient. It should not be used at all, especially in products that are mentioned to stay on the skin. Many manufacturers are adding emulsifying wax to shampoo and shower soaps/gels. There are much better emulsifiers for this purpose.

SLS causes skin and eye irritation

The irritation caused by SLS is caused precisely by its detergent property. All of the skin’s own protective fat and sebum are very effectively washed away. This will make the skin more exposed to many external stimulations. Removing the fat and sebum cause itching and irritation. Symptoms are similar to allergies and hypersensitivity but they are caused by SLS.

Skin rash and eczma

SLS also aggravates previous skin symptoms. Continuous washing of dry skin suffering rash using strongly detergent products may aggravate symptoms.

SLS in toothpastes

SLS is widely used in toothpastes. Consumers obviously want the toothpaste to foam. People do not believe that paste cleans without foam – or do they?  The foaming property of SLS is very commonly used in toothpastes. There are very few non-foaming toothpastes available. It is very difficult to find a toothpaste without SLS in a regular shop.

Mouth Odours

SLS has also been found to affect mouth odours. It neutralizes odours to some extent. Therefore, it is a highly desirable chemical in dental care.

SLS also does its damage in the mouth.

It has been found to cause aphtha, or small painful blisters on the oral mucosa. Patients suffering aphthous ulcers have switched to a more natural version of toothpaste and have got rid of them.

Cracked Lips

Toothpaste containing SLS is in many cases the reason for mouth sores and fractured, cracked lips. You should try changing toothpaste if you suffer from such symptoms.

SLS is also claimed to reduce the effect of fluoride on toothpastes. Here’s another reason to avoid SLS in toothpastes.

SLS and palm oil

SLS contains lauryl acid, which is a natural ingredient in coconut fat. Sometimes, SLS is called sodium coco sulphate, emphasizing that lauryl acid is coming from coconut. However, the chemical is completely the same and just as harmful to skin and hair as SLS.

Make Sure You Know the Origin of Lauryl Acid

Lauryl acid of Sodium Laureth Sulfate is often made from mineral oil or coconut but also from palm oil. If you want to avoid the use of palm oil for ethical reasons, make sure you know the origin of lauryl acid. It may be, however, an impossible task. The products of chemical industry are sold all over the globe. It is not always possible to identify an individual product, even in case when the producer is a responsible company.

How to find SLS in cosmetics?

You should learn to recognize all different names of SLS and its aliases that appear on products by using INCI-lists. The cosmetics industry would not give up a good, versatile and inexpensive raw material. Therefore, SLS has over 100 different chemical and commercial names. It is therefore quite impossible for an average consumer to learn all the possible names of the same chemical.

Here are Some Common Names of SLS

However, here are some common names. The most common trick is to replace word lauryl with coco in SLS. This gives an idea of ​​the natural ingredient. We know this is not true. SLS is always a synthetic chemical that cannot be found in nature.

Different names of SLS

• Sulfuric acid monododecyl Ester sodium salt
• Sodium salt hydrogen sulphate
• Dodecyl alcohol
• Sodium dodecane sulfonate
• Sodium monododecyl sulphate
• Sodium Coco sulphate

Similar substances that you should also avoid

• Ammonium lauryl sulphate (ALS) ammonium dodecyl sulphate
• Potassium lauryl sulphate

How to replace products containing SLS?

The easiest way to replace products containing SLS is to use soap-based products. Marseille soap contains only natural ingredients and is great for the skin.

There are currently many sulphate-free alternatives for hair washing. Your local store selling only natural cosmetics would be glad to guide you. They are presumably the experts.

Curly Girl

Natural, eco-friendly Curly Girl method is very recommendable way to treat hair. Curly Girl products are suitable for both curly and straight hair as they are much gentler and contain no silicones or sulphates.

Consider changing your toothpaste to more natural product. Be careful because many toothpastes considered eco-friendly and naturals contain some form of SLS. People do not buy paste that without foam. Or do they?  Here’s how to make homemade toothpaste.

Make Your Own, Natural Hair Wash

If you want to make your own, natural hair wash, try aloe vera juice of which I have written here. Aloe Vera contains saponins, which are natural cleansing agents. They do not wash the skin too clean and do not remove the skin’s own protective layer of sebum.

Are you trying to avoid products containing SLS?

Artikkeli Sodium Laureth Sulfate in cosmetics, how harmful it is? julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Lotions are perishable products. This is one of the main reasons why people don’t want to make them. Preservatives are feared because they are one of the most allergenic ingredients in cosmetics. However, when preparing home cosmetics, there is no need to use methyl isothiazolinones (MI or MIT) or formaldehyde release agents. These substances are sensitizing contact allergens when used continuously and they really should be avoided. Methylisothiazolinones and formaldehyde release agents can cause symptoms even at very low concentration.

There is surprising amount of safe preservatives used in home cosmetics. Find out how to protect your product from getting spoiled by using different methods.

The preservation of the cream depends on many things

All raw materials must be absolutely fresh. The oil must have a life span of at least one year, preferably one and a half years.

Sterilize the herbs and other dry ingredients in the oven at about 100 ° C (212 F) for 20 minutes up to half an hour. This is how most bacteria and mould germs are destroyed.

Sterilize also the glass bottles and jars in the oven at 100 degrees for 30 minutes. Caps and plastic jars can be wiped with strong alcohol. 60% proof vodka is strong enough to destroy all microorganisms in cans.

The acidity of the product also prolongs the preservation time

Always dose the cream with suitable tool. Avoid touching the product with fingers as even clean fingers do always contain bacteria.

Keep creams and other products away from light and in a cool place

I always store creams and oils in the refrigerator. Even though you make every effort to keep the cream usable as long as possible, it is sometimes necessary to get to know certain ingredients improving the shelf life of the product and the actual preservatives.

Certain ingredients are not classified as actual preservatives.  They have been found to inhibit bacterial activity in a natural way. In foodstuff preservation, such substances are, for example, sugar, salt and vinegar. They act as flavouring agents in products but also improve shelf life.

Vitamin E is the most common and natural preservative

Products rich in cold pressed oils contain vitamin E naturally. The only preserving agent in anhydrous ointments made by melting hard fats and waxes and then mixed with cold-pressed oils is natural vitamin E.

Vitamin E is destroyed when heated, so always add a few drops to the product after cooling. Especially if you heat the product for 30 minutes at 80 degrees C (176 F) or above, the amount of vitamin E will be significantly reduced.

In home cosmetics we can use herbal extracts to improve shelf life.

Antioxidants inhibit oxidation

All antioxidants are welcome in lotions. Not only do they protect your skin from signs of aging, they also protect the product itself from oxidation. There are countless good antioxidants in creams. Here are  few good ones

• Vitamin C
• Vitamin A (retinol)
• Vitamin E (Tocopherol)
• Vitamin B5 (Panthenol)

Many cold pressed natural oils are high in antioxidants

Rosemary extract is a very good preservative

Rosemary extract is not the same thing as rosemary essential oil. You can find rosemary extract at online stores.

Rosemary extract acts as a preservative agent in creams. Rosemary extract effectively prevents fats from oxidation. So, it acts as an antioxidant.

Use rosemary extract 20-40 drops / 100 ml (3,38 us fl oz) of finished ointment. It is best to add the drops only after the cream has cooled down at least to  40 degrees C (104 F).

Grapefruit extract

Grapefruit seed extract has been recommended for use in cosmetics as a substance that improves shelf life. However, new studies prove that grapefruit seed extract does not prevent the growth of microbes. The power of grapefruit seed extract is based on the preservative it contains. That’s why I no longer recommend grapefruit seed extract as a substance to improve the shelf life of cosmetics.

There are a few actual preservatives you can use in home-made cosmetics

Geogard 221 Cosgard is an eco-certified preservative

Geogard is certified by COSMOS and ECOCERT. If you want to make genuine natural cosmetics, Geogard 221 is the right choice. Geogard can be used in all cosmetics.

Geogard 221 contains a chemical called dehydroacetic acid, which has been found safe in cosmetics. The substance is an inhibitor of microorganisms. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative.

Geogard also contains benzyl alcohol

Benzyl alcohol has a pleasant, mild aroma. Benzyl alcohol is naturally present in jasmine and clove oils. It has been found to be slightly irritating to the skin. Therefore, benzyl alcohol must always be included in safety data sheets. If you get skin irritation from natural cosmetics, it is probably caused by benzyl alcohol. If you get skin irritation from natural cosmetics, it is probably caused by benzyl alcohol. It is a very common ingredient in many cosmetic preservation systems.

The dosage of Geogard 221 preservative is 0.2-1%. Here again, I would remind you of getting the most accurate scale or other measuring equipment. In fact, I have used a pipette for dosing. Each pipette is different. Therefore, I cannot directly report the number of drops per millilitre. Here is a handy way to measure really small volume measurements

Do like this

• Get a measurement cup of 10 ml
• Using a pipette, drop the cup full
• Count each drop you drop and divide the number you got by ten
• Now you know how many drops is 1 ml – using the same pipette

PCG preservative

PCG is a mixture of phenoxyethanol and caprylic glycol. It is recognizable by its sticky, bright appearance and the scent of the rose. Phenoxyethanol is not a natural cosmetic. It is a chemical that has been found to cause skin irritation and nervous system symptoms in children. Therefore, phenoxyethanol should not be used in products intended for children. In the case of products intended for adults, the content may not exceed 1%.

Another component of PCG is caprylic glycol

Caprylic glycol is prepared from caprylic acid obtained from coconut oil. Caprylic glycol can also be manufactured synthetically. Chemically caprylic glycol is alcohol. It is a moisturizing and caring ingredient for the skin. Caprylic glycol can be used in natural cosmetics if its origin is natural.

Overdosing

If you will decide to use PCG preservative in your product, you need to obtain a very accurate scale or measuring equipment. The product is dosed at 0.5-1.5ml / 100ml. 0.5 ml is such a small amount that it is very challenging to measure. Overdosing is very easy to do.

What if you only want to make 60ml of cream. How do you manage to measure the preservative correctly?

This is the most challenging problem in home cosmetics. If you decide to use synthetic chemicals that have side effects, how can you make sure that the dosing is accurate.

Consider carefully what chemicals you would like to use in your products

You will sometimes come across other preservatives in home cosmetics too. However, here were some of the most common ones that can be obtained fairly easily.

Be very careful with preservatives

However, you should always be very careful with preservatives. Carefully study the various ingredients of the product and its effect on humans and the environment. If you have any doubts about the product in question, you should not buy it. However, there are enough safe products available and good storage and care at the manufacturing process will guarantee a sufficiently long shelf life for your product.

I myself try to make non-preservative products mainly.

Do you have any experience using preservatives in cosmetics? Do you prefer an anhydrous product or you want to make a safe preservative cream?

Artikkeli Preservatives for homemade cosmetics julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.