Black cumin seed oil is an ancient product used in ancient cultures such as India and the Middle East. Black cumin oil has multiple uses. In this article, I will tell you how you can use black cumin oil for hair and skin care. Black cumin oil is a quite unknown product. All of its features are not yet known. Black cumin oil is clearly different from all other oils. Therefore, its use must be properly studied. Next, I will tell you about the history of black cumin oil and its benefits for the skin and scalp.

Black cumin oil was a cosmetic for Cleopatra

Black gum, or Nigella sativa, is originally coming from Southwest Asia. Black cumin should not be mixed with spice caraway or Roman cumin, aka jeera. Black cumin belongs to a completely different plant family: Nigella is a member of the buttercup family. Its flower looks like the flower of a buttercup but is azure in colour.

Black cumin is getting along well in the extreme heat of the Middle East. It has been cultivated in the territory of Egypt since the time of the Pharaohs thousands of years ago. Black cumin seeds have been found in the tombs of the pharaohs. That is why it is also called Pharaoh’s oil.

The oil made from black cumin is almost black and smells slightly like tar. The scent can be quite intense but still pleasant.

Black cumin oil is rich in antioxidants

In skin care, the popularity of black cumin oil is based on its really rich antioxidant content. Antioxidants protect the skin from oxidation thus also reduce the signs of aging.

 Black cumin oil contains an antioxidant called thymoquinone. Thymoquinone is an anti-inflammatory and curative compound. Thymoquinone has even been studied in the treatment of cancer. It may have a reducing effect on squamous cell tumours.

Other highly effective antioxidants in black cumin oil are carvacrol, t-anethole and 4-terpineol.

Black cumin oil also contains calcium as well as numerous vitamins such as vitamin A, vitamin D, folic acid, vitamin B3 and niacin.

Due to its rich content of antioxidants and vitamins, the effect of black cumin oil has also been tested on several skin diseases such as

• Eczema, you can find the study here. Black cumin oil has been tried for eczema in the hands with encouraging results.
• Psoriasis, research can be found here. The study has only been done in mice, so in humans, the effect may be quite different.
• Acne, research can be found here. For acne, studies have been done in humans and the results have been encouraging.

Black cumin oil has a very rich and versatile fatty acid composition

Black cumin oil is a very old and popular product. Therefore, it has been studied very thoroughly. Oleic acids have also been carefully studied and analysed many times.

Black cumin oil mainly contains linoleic acid, which is a very good fatty acid for the skin. Linoleic acid is not pore-clogging. There is little oleic acid in black cumin oil. EPA and DHA fatty acids have mainly nutritional importance.

• Linoleic acid 42.76%
• Oleic acid 16.59%
• Palmitic acid 8.51%
• Stearic acid 2.22%
• Eicosantric acid 4.71%
• Eicosapentaenoic acid EPA 5.98%
• Docosahexaenoic acid DHA 2.97%

Black cumin oil is antiseptic

Black cumin oil is very effective for skin problems where microbes have succeeded. One typical microbial problem is dandruff. Dandruff is often caused by overgrowth of yeast. An oil treatment on the scalp containing black cumin oil can control the dandruff problem.

The antioxidants in oils are never strong enough to cure the actual inflammation or acute fungal disease of the skin. They only work as maintenance treatment or as a preventative measure. If you have a clear, acute skin condition or inflammation of the skin, always consult a dermatologist.

Black cumin oil protects the skin from infections. Especially in summer, the skin can easily become inflamed and get fungal infections. I have used black cumin oil in foot creams to protect my summer feet in advance. foot cream should always be applied to damp feet after a foot bath and possible scratching

Black cumin oil shrinks pores

Black cumin oil has been found to have pore-reducing effects. Open pores are not just a cosmetic problem. Open pores collect dirt and contaminants in air more efficiently than closed pores.

Black cumin oil activates hair follicles

In India, black cumin oil is one of the best products against hair loss as well as promoting hair growth. Black cumin oil increases blood circulation in the scalp. When you apply black cumin oil to the scalp, you will feel a pleasant feeling of warmth. It means that the blood circulation starts to wake up. Increased blood circulation brings more oxygen and nutrients to the hair follicles and gives your hair new growth.

Black cumin oil supports the health of the scalp and prevents scalp problems.

Black cumin oil keeps skin elastic and moisturized

The oils do not actually moisturize the skin. If you already have very dry skin, applying the oil to the skin does not bring it more moisture. Moisture always means water. Therefore, oils must be applied to damp skin. The best humidification is clean water. Of course, you can add a little glycerine to the water to bind moisture to the skin.

Black cumin oil effectively locks moisture deep into the skin so that the skin feels very elastic and soft. Black cumin oil is well absorbed and does not leave greasy feeling on surface of the skin.

Black cumin oil removes darkening of the skin

The best way to remove darkening from your skin is to use antioxidant skin care products. The antioxidants in black cumin oil work well on dark spots caused by skin aging. You may need to use black cumin oil for a while before getting results and the darkening fades.

How do you use black cumin oil?

Always choose 100%, pure, cold pressed black cumin oil. Of course, organic quality is always the recommended option.

Black cumin oil is sold in very small bottles. It is not a base oil but a very strong specialty oil. Black cumin oil should always be mixed with a base oil such as sunflower oil or safflower oil. The mild base oil dilutes black cumin oil to suitable level for the skin.

Black cumin oil is well suited as a skin oil

Use black cumin oil at a dilution of about 5-20%. A stronger, 20% dilution is best used in case you have a skin problem. Normally a 5% dilution is just enough to maintain the condition of the skin. You can use black cumin oil diluted with mild base oils directly on the skin. The same oil applies to the face, body and scalp.

Use black cumin oil for anhydrous ointments

Black cumin oil is suitable for anhydrous creams containing beeswax. In ancient Greece, black cumin oil was always used in conjunction with beeswax and propolis. Propolis is a beeswax. It contains a huge number of antibacterial agents such as resins. If you are allergic to resins, do not use bee products. At least not propolis.

You can also make an effective caring cream with about 5-20% black cumin oil. Antibacterial cream made from black cumin oil is well suited for foot care. You can also make a face cream containing black cumin oil for problem skin.

It is highly recommended to use black cumin oil in hair care products. Add a few drops of black cumin oil to the conditioner before applying the conditioner to your hair. Leave on for a few minutes and rinse off the conditioner normally.

Black cumin oil is an interesting specialty oil worth trying

Black cumin oil is a very exceptional oil that is less commonly used in cosmetics. However, it is a highly nutritious and antioxidant product. Thanks to its antioxidants, black cumin oil also retains better than other oils with a high linoleic acid content. A good feature of black cumin oil is its suitability for cooking as well. You can also use healthy black cumin oil in the kitchen to give a full-bodied taste to, for example, vegetarian dishes and salad dressings.

Artikkeli Black cumin seed oil; oil of Pharaohs julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Cannabis plant

The cannabis plant was originally classified into three different species; Cannabis sativa, Cannabis Indica and Cannabis ruderalis. Nowadays, many researchers are of the opinion that the commonly cultivated cannabis plant is called C. sativa L. Its subspecies “sativa” can be called hemp and the other subspecies “indica” can be called recreational cannabis or marijuana. The indica variety has significantly more psychoactive substances than the sativa. In this article, I will only talk about cannabis sativa, which has a very balanced ratio of all cannabinoids.

What are cannabinoids?

Cannabinoids can be divided into three groups

• Endocannabinoids; cannabinoids produced by the body itself
• Phyto cannabinoids; cannabinoids found in flora
• Synthetic cannabinoids; factory-made cannabinoids

Endocannabinoids

Cannabinoids are also naturally present in all of our bodies, not only in the hemp plant. These are called endocannabinoids.

Endocannabinoids are cannabinoids produced by the body, which have their own important function in the body. Endocannabinoids work through receptors on the surface of body cells. These receptors are everywhere in the body, such as in the muscles, internal organs, brain and also in the skin. When necessary, for example in stressful situations, cannabinoids always affect the right place in the body.

Cannabinoids are completely natural and necessary chemicals for the body. The body is able to utilize the cannabinoids of the hemp plant in the same way as it utilizes its own endocannabinoids.

Sometimes, for many different reasons, the production of endocannabinoids decreases in the body. Then the body’s balance is disturbed. Disorders can be treated using cannabinoids obtained from plants. The most useful cannabinoids for the body are the non-psychoactive cannabinoids.

Phyto cannabinoids are a broad group of plant chemicals

Phyto cannabinoids are mainly obtained from the hemp plant. When talking about cannabinoids, the first thought is usually the psychoactive THC but not the non-psychoactive CBD. These are the most well-known cannabinoids. In reality, there are 120 different cannabinoids in the hemp plant. They each have a slightly different effect. Only two of them have an intoxicating effect, the others are not psychoactive at all but instead have incredible therapeutic effects. The research and utilization of Phyto cannabinoids is only in the beginning. Cannabinoid research has been hampered by the use of cannabis for intoxicating purposes.

Synthetic cannabinoids

Synthetically produced cannabinoids are mainly used in the pharmaceutical industry. Extracting isolated cannabinoids from plants is very challenging and not always successful. The pharmaceutical industry wants to use single, isolated cannabinoids in their products to produce a specific effect. The easiest way to do this is with synthetic cannabinoids. Synthetic cannabinoids do not have the same synergistic effect as natural Phyto cannabinoids.

Other phytochemicals contained in the hemp plant

In addition to cannabinoids, 400 different terpenes and hundreds of flavonoids have been found in hemp. The numerous flavonoids contained in the hemp plant essentially affect the pharmacological effect of the cannabinoids contained in hemp. All of these phytochemicals make hemp a truly therapeutic plant. The terpenes and flavonoids of the hemp plant work together with different cannabinoids. They form an incredibly powerful synergistic compound that has many effects in skin care. This is called the Entourage effect.

The terpenes contained in the hemp plant are rich in cannabinoid-supporting effects. The most important terpenes contained in the hemp plant are;

• alpha-pinene; helps memory and works to prevent inflammation
• beta-pinene; helps memory and works to prevent inflammation
• limonene; brightens the skin, antioxidant
• terpinolene,
• beta-caryophyllene; mainly responsible for the anti-inflammatory effect
• beta-myrcene; improves skin permeability, antioxidant

Entourage effect

Research into the complex Entourage-effect of the hemp plant’s phytochemicals began as early as the 60s in Israel. It has continued until these days. Researchers have made some breakthroughs in studying the effect of phytochemicals on humans. They have noticed that the therapeutic effect is the best when the whole plant is used. If you want to isolate CBD only from the plant and use it, the effect is not that good at all. Much more research is needed to understand the interaction between cannabinoids and other phytochemicals in the hemp plant.

Cannabinoid products

There are many types of cannabis products. There are many restrictions on cannabinoids, maybe in your country it is not legal to use THC even externally. If you want to sell your products, make sure that none of your products contain any THC. THC is also not necessary in skin care. The other cannabinoids, terpenes and flavonoids of the hemp plant completely replace the THC.

The most recommended form of cannabinoid oil for cosmetics is a broad-spectrum product from which only THC has been removed. Such a product includes all the terpenes and cannabinoids contained in the plant (except THC). Broad-spectrum cannabinoid oil has a highly effective, synergistic effect. All the phytochemicals in the product work together to support each other.

In broad-spectrum products, the problem can be the THC contained in the product. In case the oil you are using contains some THC,  you are in possession of an illegal product. The quality of the product may also vary depending on the cannabinoid content of the plants used. Cannabinoids are very unstable plant chemicals. They may change shape depending on temperature, the effect of oxygen and light, and the quality of the original plant material.

Isolates are also very common cannabinoid products. Isolates mean that one cannabinoid, most commonly CBD, has been isolated from cannabis. The product then does not contain any other cannabinoids or terpenes, and such a product is not as effective as broad-spectrum cannabinoid oil. Of course, you can add the necessary essential oils to the product yourself, which contain terpenes same and typical of cannabis. In this way, you get back some of the synergy. You need to know the terpenes in essential oils well in order to create an effective product using the isolate.

How do cannabinoids affect the skin?

Cannabinoids affect the skin in many different ways. Researchers have discovered that there are two cannabinoid receptors in the skin; CB-1 and CB-2. Cannabinoids affect the growth of melanocytes, keratinocytes and fibroblasts through these receptors. Cannabinoids affect skin cell growth, reproduction, differentiation and natural cell regeneration. The numerous terpenes and flavonoids in the cannabis plant support the effect of cannabinoids on the skin.

Cannabinoids have been used successfully in the treatment of many different skin diseases. In this blog, I will not go deeper to skin diseases and the treatment of them.  If the topic interests you, you can get more information on the topic online.

In healthy skin, cannabinoids especially affect the moisture balance of the skin. They strengthen the skin’s protective layer.

Cannabinoids together with terpenes act to soothe the skin and prevent inflammation. There is a lot of evidence for this in the treatment of various skin diseases, e.g. acne, psoriasis and atopic eczema. The skin-soothing effect of cannabinoids also treats itching.

Cannabinoids regenerate the skin effectively. This property is useful in the treatment of aged skin. The skin’s ability to renew itself disappears with aging. The renewal process can be accelerated by using products containing cannabinoids in skin care.

Cannabinoids have a balancing effect on skin function. They reduce excessive sebum production and are therefore a good active ingredient for oily skin. Oily skin is also prone to infections. The anti-inflammatory property of cannabinoids is useful in acne prevention.

Cannabinoids should also be used in hair products. There are studies where cannabinoids have reduced hair loss. Cannabinoids also soothe an irritated, itchy scalp.

Unfortunately, there is very little official research data on the use of cannabinoids on the skin. We definitely need more research and experience on the use of cannabinoids in skin care. However, here were some ideas for you on what types of skin problems you could try treating with cannabinoids.

Use of cannabinoids in a cosmetic product?

Cannabinoids should be added to nourishing cosmetics such as serums, facial masks, facial oils, night creams and nourishing day creams. Cannabinoids should not be added to wash-off products, as they do not have time to take effect in a very short time.

Cannabinoids are fat-soluble, so you can also include them in completely water-free products such as balms and salves. You cannot use cannabinoids in products that do not contain any oils, such as toners.

Feel free to also use essential oils with cannabinoids. Terpenes in essential oils work synergistically with cannabinoids. In this way, the skin care effect of cannabinoids is significantly better.

As I mentioned earlier. Cannabinoids are fine but unstable products. They should not be heated at all. Therefore, add cannabinoids to the product only when the product has clearly cooled, meaning preferably below 30 degrees Celsius.

Protect cannabinoids from light and oxygen. Pack the product in a dark glass bottle or jar. Always close the can carefully after use and store away from direct sunlight.

Use no more than 1% of cannabinoids in the product. Higher amounts of cannabinoids can irritate the skin. Of course, the amount depends entirely on the cannabinoid product you are using. However, in the beginning, be very careful and avoid overdosing.

Have you already tried cannabinoids in skin care?

Artikkeli Cannabinoids in cosmetics julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Collagen is a protein

Collagen comes from the Greek word “kolla” which means glue.Collagen is a common protein found in all mammals. Collagen consists of amino acids, which together form a collagen spiral. Collagen is found in many body tissues such as

• In cartilage
• In connective tissue
• In bones
• In the tendons
• In ligaments
• On the skin
• In blood vessels
• In the intestines
• In corneas
• In the discs between the vertebrae (spinal discs)
• In the heart

Collagen makes up 1-2% of muscle tissue. It accounts for about 6% of bones. Collagen is therefore a very important protein whose effect does not only extend to the skin and youthful appearance.

There are five different types of collagens. The most common collagen in the human body is type 1 collagen. More than 90% of the collagen in the human body is type 1 collagen.

As you can see, collagen plays a very important role in all body functions. If collagen production does not work in the human body, the problems affect health very adversely. Wrinkles and aged skin are only the tip of the iceberg.

Functions of collagen on the skin

We could talk about collagen and health a lot, but in this blog, we will only focus on the collagen in the skin. The skin is divided into three parts

• Epidermis
• Dermis
• Subcutaneous layer

Collagen is located in the dermis, the middle layer of the skin.

What does collagen do in the skin?

The skin’s collagen is in the dermis and has many functions. Listed here are just a few of the most important roles that collagen plays in your skin.

The amount of collagen decreases with age

The skin of children, teenagers and young adults is elastic and wrinkle-free. They have plenty of collagen in the epidermis and the skin functions flawlessly. The human body takes care of collagen. Every year, 3 kilograms of collagen breaks down in our body and 3 kilograms of new, flexible collagen is produced as replacement.

As we age, collagen production declines. Collagen is formed less than it is removed and it is of lower quality. In an elderly person, collagen is not as flexible and elastic as in young people. All this can be seen on the face as signs of aging. The facial features glow downwards. Cheeks that were so round before are starting to sag. Deep furrows appear on the skin when the collagen is no longer stretching the skin taut.

Collagen production decreases little by little, but the biggest leap occurs after menopause. Then collagen production declines significantly. Everyone over the age of 60 experiences a decrease in collagen production. It is completely normal and part of aging.

How do I know if my collagen levels are declining?

You cannot measure your collagen levels with blood tests. However, you can determine your collagen status in other ways. Collagen is everywhere in the body, so its reduction is visible throughout the body, not just on the skin.

• Wrinkles around the eyes and mouth
• Saggy skin
• Joint pains and poorer joint mobility
• Digestive problems (thinning of the mucous membranes and resulting problems)
• Problems with blood circulation
• Muscle pain and muscle contraction

Increasing collagen levels is not a simple matter

Collagen has become a very good money maker for the nutritional supplement and cosmetics industry. People want to be convinced that by eating supplements containing collagen and using collagen creams, we can regain our youth. Unfortunately, however, this is not the case.

There are also collagen injections available to increase the level of the collagen in the body. The effect of the injections lasts for some time, after which new injections should be taken. This is an expensive procedure and only helps locally.

Collagen cannot be absorbed into the skin

Collagen is a protein made up of amino acids. Just to transport amino acids through the epidermis to the middle layer of the skin, the dermis, is almost impossible. The structure of collagen is so large that it cannot possibly get into the dermis. Collagen cannot even penetrate the epidermis, but remains on the surface of the skin. Therefore, creams containing collagen do not help to increase the amount of collagen in the skin.

There are lot of ads promoting collagen supplements and they are quite popular. However, the body can produce collagen itself from amino acids. You do not necessarily need to eat collagen, although there is no risk unless you eat huge amounts of it.

To get enough building materials to produce collagen from food, you need enough high-quality protein. This type of protein is found in meat, fish, milk, and eggs.

If you are a vegetarian, you need to be more careful about the quality of your food. To get complete protein, you should eat both vegetables, legumes (such as beans and lentils), and grains. All these plants have protein, but their protein consists of different amino acids. To get all the necessary amino acids, you should eat a variety of plant products.

Take care of your collagen levels

Collagen has been studied for hundreds of years. In traditional Chinese medicine, collagen-rich products were used internally to achieve more youthful looking skin. A gelatinous preparation obtained from donkey skin, called Ejiao, was a very popular medicine. Cao Zhi (192-232) was a famous Chinese writer. He was unnaturally thin and therefore was offered Ejiao preparation. His skin rejuvenated quickly, wrinkles disappeared and the skin became more elastic. Eating foods containing collagen is still a good way to take care of the youthfulness of the skin and the whole body.

Protect your own collagen stores

Easier than adding collagen that has already been lost from your body is protecting the existing collagen that is still left. There are many things that reduce our collagen levels. When we learn to remove these harmful things and habits from our lives, collagen levels stay higher and we can enjoy a youthful essence for longer.

At least the following things are known to lose collagen levels heavily

Smoking

Smoking has been found to reduce collagen formation. it damages collagen and slows wound healing. Nicotine constricts the peripheral blood vessels on the skin and prevents the transport of nutrients to the skin.

Too much sugar and too many carbohydrates

Sugar attaches to proteins and forms advanced glycation end products. Such proteins cause collagen to weaken and become brittle. Keep your carbohydrate levels moderate. It also helps with skin care.

Excessive sunlight

UV radiation causes collagen to break down faster. It also reduces collagen production. You can protect yourself from excessive sunlight by staying in the shade, covering your body and, if necessary, using sun protection products.

Can cosmetics affect collagen levels?

After all this, I can say to your surprise that it can. Applying collagen to the skin does not help collagen production, but there are other techniques. Many cosmetic substances increase the production of collagen, even if they do not contain collagen. They work so-called as a collagen booster. The most important and familiar ingredient in cosmetics that increases collagen synthesis is vitamin C, i.e. ascorbic acid.

Vitamin C

Along with amino acids, the most important substance in collagen synthesis is vitamin C. Vitamin C is of course an effective antioxidant, but it is also a necessary substance in the production of collagen. Taking vitamin C supplements is also beneficial for collagen synthesis. It benefits the whole body. When applied externally to the face using creams and serums containing vitamin C, it can be absorbed deep into the skin and have an effect exactly where collagen is produced. That is why the products containing vitamin C are really recommended in the treatment of aged skin.

Antioxidants

The worst enemy of collagen in the skin is low-grade inflammation. Products containing ingredients that soothe the skin and reduce inflammation protect the collagen in the skin. All antioxidants are such substances.

Inflammation breaks down collagen everywhere in the body, including the skin. It does not have to be a violent, acute inflammation. Low-grade inflammation can appear on the skin only as mild irritation. That is why many skin care products have skin-soothing properties. They reduce inflammation and at the same time protect collagen from destruction.

Use natural, unrefined vegetable oils in skin care

Natural vegetable oils contain antioxidants such as vitamin E, carotenoids, chlorophyll, and many phenolic compounds. In unrefined, natural oils, most of the unsaponifiable substances of the oil are still saved. Such oils are often colourful; green, red or golden yellow. There are, for example, high antioxidant concentrations in hemp oil, rosehip oil and sea buckthorn oil

Other good, antioxidant-rich cosmetic ingredients are:

• Resveratol
• Bakuchiol
• Pycnogenol

With these above-mentioned substances have a proven effect on collagen synthesis. Bakuchiol is a natural alternative to vitamin A. It helps in many ways in the treatment of aged skin.

When reducing the signs of skin aging, boosting your own collagen and its production is the key. Forget expensive collagen creams and pamper your skin with antioxidants. You do not have to wait until you are 60. It is worth taking care of the skin and the skin’s collagen level already now. Protecting the skin from excessive UV rays, a balanced diet and skin care products rich in vitamin C and antioxidants strengthen and protect your own collagen reserves.

Artikkeli Collagen in skin care; the fountain of youth, the secret of beauty julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Gotu kola has many names

Gotu kola actually goes by many different names; Centella asiatica, Hydrocotyle asiatica, Indian pennywort, Asiatic pennywort, coinwort. I use the name gotu kola for the plant here because I’m used to it. Other names of the plant may also appear in the INCI -lists and packaging of cosmetics. That’s why it’s good for you to know the plant’s many names.

The abundance of gotu kola names is also emphasized by the fact that centella, or gotu kola, is also called brahmi in India. We are used to use name brahmi when talking about Bacoba monnieri, which is a completely different plant, Brahmi. The name brahmi comes from the Sanskrit word Brahma, which means universal consciousness. Because both Centella asiatica and  bacoba have effects on consciousness and mind in Ayurveda, both plants are called brahmi in India.

The names of these two plants may vary depending on the region. Gotu kola is commonly called Brahmi in North India. In South India, on the other hand, Bacoba monnieri is also called Brahmi. It must therefore be considered where in India the name Brahmi is used and which plant is used. However, both plants can quite justifiably be called Brahmi. You can read more about it on the Banyan Botanicals website.

What kind of plant is gotu kola?

Gotu kola preferably grows in the tropics. It also occurs to some extent in the temperate zone. The plant comes from Asia, more precisely from India, where it still mainly grows today.

Gotu kola is a perennial herb that thrives in very humid, marshy areas, along river banks and in salty marsh areas. The plant also thrives in shallow coastal water. The Finnish name of the plant comes from India. The Sanskrit name “Mandukaparni” means frog leaves. The shape of the leaves of the plant resembles a frog. According to another explanation, the plant got its name manduki (like a frog) because it grows where frogs live.

Gotu kola is considered a weed in Asia, which spreads as a covering plant over very large areas. It is a rather modest plant with round, serrated leaves. I can hardly see the small purple flowers of Gotu kola under the lush foliage. Sometimes the flowers can also be white or purple.

Traditional use of Centella

Gotu kola has traditionally been used as a vegetable and is served fresh in salads. In Thailand, gotu kola is used to make a famous drink called “Bai Bua Bok”.

Gotu kola has also always been a part of traditional medicine. Gotu kola has been used especially in the treatment of dermatological diseases. It has treated small wounds and rashes. Leprosy has been a very common disease in Asia. Its most important medicines have been gotu kola herb. Gotu kola was scientifically studied as a leprosy medicine in the middle of the 20th century. The studies showed positive results. Many people suffering leprosy are very poor people. Collected for free from nature, gotu kola has always been an important herb for them. Gotu kola has also once been used to treat psoriasis.

There are numerous legends about Centella. One of them tells that a Chinese herbalist once took gotu kola and lived 200 years. That’s why gotu kola is called “the source of life” in China. Gotu kola has been used over the years for healing a wide variety of diseases such as asthma, colds, mental fatigue, stomach ulcers, diarrhea and fever.

The benefits of Gotu kola in skin care

Gotu kola is used more and more in cosmetics these days. Gotu kola’s popularity is based on scientific research. Gotu kola has a very impressive amount of beneficial plant compounds for the skin. Its primary active ingredients are saponins (8%) which are also called triterpenoids. Four triterpenoids; Asiatic acid, madecassic acid, asiaticoside and madecassoside form the main part of the active substances of the plant.

Gotu kola’s triterpenoids have been studied in particular for their anti-inflammatory, redness-reducing and anti-aging properties. In particular, madecassoside is a powerful antioxidant that soothes and treats the skin effectively. Madecassic acid treats acne skin. Madecassic acid is an antibacterial substance that suppresses the inflammation caused by acne on the skin and stops the formation of scars. This is why gotu kola extract is used in many acne products.

Gotu kola contains plenty of antioxidants that fight against free radicals on the skin. Free radicals are particles that damage cells and contribute to premature aging. Antioxidants prevent the action of free radicals.

Studies have also found that gotu kola extract improves skin protection and the harmful effects of sunlight on the skin.

In addition, gotu kola extract contains plenty of other substances useful for the skin, such as

• tannins (20-25%) firm the skin and restrain sebum secretion (acne skin)
• essential acids (beta-caryophyllene, trans-beta-farnesene) anti-inflammatory, anti-inflammatory, skin soothing, antimicrobial properties (also fungal diseases) Beta-caryophyllene is also found in hemp and acts as a pain reliever.
• phytosterols (campesterol, sitosterol, stigmasterol) suppress inflammation and support cell structure
• vegetable slimes; (moisturize the skin)
• resins; antibacterial components
• free amino acids (alanine, serine, aminobutyrate, aspartate, glutamate, lysine and threonine),
• flavonoids (quercetin and kaempferol derivatives)
• alkaloids (kaempferol) anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial
• fatty acids (linoleic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid) substances that soften and protect the skin

How is gotu kola used in cosmetics?

The plant extracts in Gotu kola are mainly water soluble. I have usually made glycerite from gotu kola leaves. Glycerite is a water-soluble extract made from glycerol, the plant to be extracted, and distilled water. Glycerites can be used in all water-containing products, such as toners, water-based serums and emulsions. Read how to make sunflower glycerite in the Helenatur recipe archive.

Gotu kola can also be made into a water extract, a tea-like extract. Gotu kola tea is sometimes available. It is also suitable for cosmetics use. The easiest way is to get a ready-made gotu kola extract. Gotu kola extract is often sold under the name Gotu kola and is water and glycerol based.

There are also oil extracts made from Gotu kola available. Oil extracts made from Gotu kola are used internally in Ayurveda to treat various imbalances and calm the mind. However, the most useful in cosmetics are the water and glycerol solutions.

Glycerol-based gotu kola extract is usually used in emulsions and serums at about 5-10% mix ratio. Products containing gotu kola extract are suitable for treatment creams for aging skin, acne skin products, soothing creams used after sunbathing, as well as nourishing serums and face masks.

Is gotu kola extract safe for the skin?

Gotu kola extract, like all plant extracts, can cause allergies. Gotu kola should be tested on an inconspicuous area of the skin. Sensitization may not appear immediately. If you get symptoms within 48 hours, you should leave gotu kola extract out of the products.

Apart from possible allergy and sensitization, gotu kola extract has not been found to cause any problems in external use. Gotu kola is generally considered safe even during pregnancy. Unfortunately, there are no in-depth studies on the subject. If you are pregnant and hesitate to use gotu kola externally, you should not use gotu kola extract.

Have you used Centella asiatica in skin care? Tell us about your experiences!

Artikkeli Gotu kola, Centella asiatica julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

The macadamia nut got its name in Australia

Macadamia nuts have always been used as food by the Australian aborigines. They called it bauple or gyndl. The name macadamia comes from the Australian chemist and politician John Macadam. The name was given to the nut by the German-Australian botanist Ferdinand von Muller in 1857. 70% of the world’s macadamia nuts and other macadamia products come from the small Queensland town of Gympie. Macadamias are also cultivated in southern Queensland and northern parts of New South Wales.

Macadamia oil is not a sensitive vegetable oil

Macadamia oil preserves well even at room temperature because it does not contain large amounts of easily oxidized fatty acids. Most of the oil in macadamia nuts is oleic acid. Macadamia oil also contains linoleic acid and moderate amounts of the very rare palmitoleic acid, which is an omega-7 fatty acid.

Macadamia oil is a versatile product

Macadamia oil is naturally almost odourless and tasteless. That is why it is very versatile. Many vegetable oils have a strong characteristic smell. Therefore, they are cleaned and processed in many different ways. The strong smell is not dangerous, but it is a disadvantage in the production of cosmetics. Macadamia oil naturally has a very light, nutty scent that is not at all excessing.

Macadamia oil has a beautiful light-yellow colour. This kind of oil is suitable for most cosmetic formulas because the colour is not too dominant. Light oils are also valued in food preparation. macadamia oil is well suited, for example, as a salad dressing, like olive oil.

The soft buttery aroma of macadamia oil makes it very popular in cooking. Butter can often be replaced in baking with macadamia oil.

The smoking point of macadamia oil is between 210 and 234 degrees Celsius. This is quite a high temperature when talking about vegetable oils. The high smoke point means that you can also use this oil for frying. Macadamia oil is also great for marinades and deep-frying.

When choosing oils for cosmetics, I always pay attention to the versatility of the oil. I only need very small amounts of oils for cosmetics. I can use the rest of the oil in the kitchen, provided that it is suitable for cooking. My macadamia oil is purchased from a grocery store, so it’s food grade.

Macadamia oil in skin care

Macadamia nuts contain about 70% oils. This is clearly a higher oil content than in many other nuts. It was precisely because of the high oil content that macadamia nuts began to be used in the production of vegetable oil. Macadamia oil has several good properties that are very useful in skin care.

Macadamia oil contains valuable and rare fatty acids

Macadamia oil contains a special fatty acid, palmitoleic acid, which is an omega-7 fatty acid. Skin loves palmitoleic acid. Chemically, it is very similar to sapienic acid found in human sebum. Especially aging skin needs palmitoleic acid to protect itself from external stimulation. Palmitoleic acid is naturally anti-inflammatory. It soothes the skin and reduces inflammation and irritation on the skin. Only very few oils contain this rare fatty acid.

Cells in the skin called keratinocytes produce keratin for the skin’s needs. Keratin is a natural compound that protects the skin. It protects the skin better than any other substance. Keratin can protect the skin from external stimulation such as pathogens, environmental pollutants and UV rays. Palmitoleic acid together with oleic acid help the skin produce this special lipid.

Macadamia oil helps dry and cracked skin to restore its elasticity. It smooths out fine lines and helps the skin retain its moisture.

Macadamia oil contains a lipid called squalene

Squalene is a lipid that healthy skin contains in significant amounts. The human body is able to form squalene itself. Squalene keeps our skin moisturized and healthy. With dry skin, squalene is not formed enough and the skin begins to show symptoms. Therefore, oils containing squalene are recommended for dry and aged skin. In the past, wrinkle creams were made from squalene-rich oil obtained from shark liver. Fortunately, we currently have other sources and sharks are left alone to swim in peace in the world’s seas.

Macadamia oil perfectly replaces shark liver oil in cosmetics. It is rich in squalene in its natural form. Squalene helps the skin to reduce oxidative stress, protect the skin from external stimulation and prevent wrinkles. Squalene maintains the condition of cell membranes. Skin with enough squalene is moisturized and healthy.

Another advantage of squalene is its silky skin feel. Squalene makes greasy oils feel less greasy. Macadamia oil is a thick and rich oil. Without squalene, it wouldn’t feel so nice on the skin at all.

Macadamia oil has four different ways to effect the skin

1. Macadamia oil is a very powerful antioxidant

Macadamia oil contains plenty of antioxidants such as vitamins E (tocotrienol and tocopherol). Squalene is also classified as an antioxidant. Antioxidants fight against premature skin aging processes.

Remember that the antioxidants are in the unsaponifiable part of the oils. The unsaponified part of the oil is removed in whole or in part, if the oil is treated after pressing to remove fragrance or colour. If you want antioxidants in your oil, get unrefined oil.

2. Macadamia oil helps reduce premature wrinkles

The palmitoleic acid and squalene contained in macadamia oil help prevent premature wrinkle formation by enhancing the regeneration of skin keratinocytes. Macadamia oil is recommended especially for dry and flaky skin. You can use it in both face and body products. Macadamia oil is recommended especially for treating mature and aging skin as well. If you have oily skin, macadamia oil is too thick oil for your skin.

3. Macadamia oil helps reduce itching and dry skin

Macadamia oil has properties that help keep the skin moisturized. Dry skin itches and flakes easily. Dry skin has lost its resistance and is prone to skin diseases. That’s why you should take care of your skin in advance, before any signs of rashes, flaking or other skin problems are visible. Macadamia oil is an excellent aid for skin prone to dryness.

4. Macadamia oil helps repair scars

Macadamia oil is a rich oil that effectively takes care of the skin’s moisture balance. The scarred area should be kept moisturized so that scar tissue can form as naturally as possible. The fatty acids contained in macadamia oil (linoleic acid, oleic acid and palmitoleic acid) are fatty acids that nourish the skin. The E vitamins contained in macadamia oil work to soothe the skin.

Macadamia nuts are toxic to dogs

According to research and also experience, macadamia nuts are toxic to dogs. Other macadamia products such as oils should not be used for dogs either. It is not known exactly how much macadamia nuts dogs can tolerate without getting poisoning symptoms. Some dogs may be more sensitive than others. Even 2 grams of macadamia nuts per kilogram of body weight can cause poisoning symptoms in the most sensitive dogs. Therefore, families with pets should be careful when using macadamia products.

How do I use macadamia oil in skin care?

Macadamia oil is suitable for skin care as it is, provided that the skin is very dry. You can also use macadamia oil on its own for aged skin. However, remember that the skin must always be well moisturized when you apply oil to it. Never use oil on skin that is not moisturized. The skin should preferably be even wet when you apply the oil. Try applying the oil to your skin just after the shower. You only need a few drops of oil on your palm. It spreads on shower-wet skin very easily and evenly.

Use macadamia oil in cosmetics. If you have normal skin, you should mix macadamia oil with lighter oils. For example, grape seed oil lightens macadamia oil quite a bit. Macadamia oil is suitable for many cosmetic products such as creams, balms, lip products and hand- and foot creams.

Do you like macadamia oil? Have you made products from it? Let me know what you think of this oil!

Artikkeli Macadamia oil is the perfect product for mature and dry skin julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Tomato seed oil is made from leftover material from the food industry

Processing tomatoes produces three different biomasses, depending on how the tomatoes have been processed. Tomato skins, tomato seeds and a mixture of these make up to 5-30% of the original mass of the tomato. Utilizing tomatoes as accurately as possible also facilitates overloaded waste management. It is very important that new uses are developed for the whole tomato. Pressing tomato seeds into oil is sustainable development at its best.

Tomato seeds contain about 25% oil, of which about 15-17% can be recovered. Tomato seed oil is usually produced by mechanical pressing either by hot process or cold pressing. However, squeezing the oil out of small tomato seeds is difficult. There must be plenty of tomatoes for it to be worth pressing the oil. Nowadays, when tomatoes are grown and processed all over the world, pressing the oil has become possible.

The production of tomato seed oil started already at the beginning of the 20th century. Oil pressed from tomato seeds was once recommended as a salad dressing. At that time, tomatoes were not as widely available as they are today. Nowadays, more than one million tons of tomatoes are processed annually in Greece alone, from which about 2,000 tons of oil is obtained. In 2017, the global market for processed tomato products (juice, puree and peeled tomatoes) was approximately $8.7 billion according to FAOSTAT https://www.fao.org/faostat/en/#data

About the properties of tomato seed oil

Tomato seed oil is a light yellow-brown oil with a rich feel. It has a strong tomato aroma which I don’t find unpleasant at all. If you get tomato seed oil as natural as possible, cold-pressed and only lightly filtered, you will clearly notice the tomato aroma.

Tomato seed oil is quite an expensive oil, which is not easy to find. I get my own oil from England. When purchasing oils, you should check with the seller the best before -date. Tomato seed oil will keep for about a year if you keep it in the fridge and protect it from oxygen (in a small bottle as possible).

Tomato seed oil contains a lot of valuable compounds for the skin

The by-products of tomato processing, such as seeds, are inexpensive biomass with plenty of different uses. Numerous scientific studies have shown that tomato seeds contain plenty of valuable bioactive compounds such as carotenoids, phenolic compounds, phytosterols and valuable fatty acids. All these valuable compounds are transferred from the seeds to the pressed oil.

The carotenoids in tomato seed oil prevent aging

Carotenoids give tomatoes their bright red colour. Carotenoids are a group of compounds, of which lycopene, lutein and beta-carotene are especially present in tomatoes. All these compounds have also been found in tomato seed oil in moderate amounts.

Carotenoids are very useful both externally and internally. Carotenoids are antioxidants that effectively fight oxidation reactions on the skin. Oxidation reactions are mainly caused by the sun’s UV rays and skin aging.

The main ingredient in tomato seed oil is lycopene. Lycopene is a carotenoid that is destroyed when heated. Therefore, lycopene can only be found in cold-pressed tomato seed oil. Lycopene has many different functions on the skin. It soothes the skin and helps it regenerate.

The lycopene and beta-carotene levels in tomato oil are decreased when using heating process to make the tomato oil. On the other hand, the levels of lutein, the third carotenoid contained in tomato seed oil, remain high despite of the heat. If you value the antioxidants contained in tomato oil, I recommend choosing cold-pressed tomato oil. Cold-pressed tomato seed oil contains all the valuable carotenoids.

The problem with carotenoids is poor absorption. In tomato seed oil, carotenoids are mixed with lipids, the fatty substances. Lipids make carotenoids more easily absorbed. In this way, the skin is better able to utilize carotenoids.

Phenolic compounds

The phenolic compounds in tomato seed oil are free radical scavengers. Phenolic compounds also help in the preservation of the oil. Phenols prevent the oil from oxidizing and keep it fresh as long as possible. The phenolic content of tomato seed oil is high. For example, caffeic acid, syringic acid and chlorogenic acid have been found in tomato seed oil. These compounds have excellent antioxidant properties. They work in the same way, preventing oxidation as carotenoids. Syringic acid also has plenty of anti-inflammatory effects. Interestingly, tomato seed oil contains the same valuable compounds as the oil contained in green coffee beans.

Phytosterols

The phytosterols contained in tomato seed oil are known to enhance collagen production. Phytosterols also renew the skin and give the skin more resistance. Phytosterols protect the skin from external stressors such as air pollution, UV light and harsh weather. Phytosterols have many anti-inflammatory properties. That is why they are also used in the treatment of eczema and other skin diseases.

Tomato seed oil contains fatty acids that are beneficial for the skin

The fatty acid profile of tomato seed oil is very beneficial for the skin. Its main fatty acid is linoleic acid (more than 55%), which is the most useful fatty acid for the skin. Linoleic acid is an essential fatty acid needed to form cell membranes. It strengthens the skin’s protective layer. Oils containing linoleic acid are suitable for all skin types and do not clog pores. Linoleic acid makes the skin feel soft and moisturized.

Another very important fatty acid in tomato seed oil is palmitic acid. Palmitic acid creates a protective layer on the surface of the skin that prevents moisture from evaporating from the skin. Palmitic acid leaves the skin with a pleasant, matte feeling. That’s why tomato seed oil feels so pleasant and nourishing on the skin.

Tomato seed oil contains relatively little oleic acid. Rich oleic acid makes the oil heavy. Oils containing oleic acid also tend to clog pores. Of course, oleic acid also has good properties. It makes the skin feel moisturized. Oleic acid is a very nutritious fatty acid that is suitable for aged and dry skin. The oleic acid content of tomato seed oil is very moderate, so I can recommend it for all skin types.

Fatty acid profile of tomato oil

• Linoleic acid 61%
• Palmitic acid 16%
• Oleic acid 17%
• Stearic acid 4%

Comedogenic value 0-2

How does tomato seed oil affect the skin?

Tomato seed oil is suitable for many different skin types. The magic of tomato seed oil lies in the phytochemicals it contains. It is the so-called a special oil that is added to products only in small amounts to bring antioxidants to the product. I myself have used tomato seed oil just as it is. A few drops of oil are applied with wet hands to wet skin. Tomato seed oil makes the skin feel moisturized and smoother.

• Especially dry, cracked skin benefits from the lycopene contained in tomato seed oil.
• Lycopene contained in tomato seed oil is a powerful antioxidant that fights signs of aging
• Lycopene soothes the skin and fades fine lines at the same time.
• Lycopene renews and strengthens the structure of the skin
• The lycopene contained in tomato seed oil is also a skin-brightening compound that helps fight hyperpigmentation.
• Tomato seed oil has the ability to repair skin damage caused by the sun.
• Tomato seed oil is not an actual Sunscreen, but it helps the skin fight against harmful UV radiation thanks to the antioxidants and plant sterols it contains.
• Tomato seed oil contains a large amount of linoleic acid, which is an essential fatty acid for the skin. Acne prone and irritated skin may benefit from extra linoleic acid.
• The linoleic acid contained in tomato seed oil soothes the skin
• Tomato seed oil is absorbed into the skin quickly, taking great nutrients with it. It leaves a velvety, moisturized feeling on the surface of the skin.
• Tomato seed oil is also recommended for hair care because of its moisturizing effect.
• Tomato seed oil helps moisturize cracked and very dry skin areas
• Tomato seed oil is recommended for treating scars and preventing pregnancy scars

How can tomato seed oil be used in cosmetics?

Tomato seed oil is a valuable special oil that should be used carefully. Since tomato seed oil contains quite a lot of different sensitive plant chemicals, it does not tolerate heating at all. Tomato seed oil is added to cosmetic products such as emulsion creams only in the cooling phase, when the temperature of the  product is already below 40 degrees Celsius

Tomato seed oil should be added to products that are left on the skin or hair. In products that can be rinsed off, the valuable properties of the oil will be wasted.

Use tomato seed oil along with other oils in face creams, eye creams, lip products and hair care products. Tomato seed oil is particularly suitable in skin oil mixtures. And as I mentioned earlier, I use it myself a few drops of tomato seed oil just as it is on moisturized skin.

Have you used tomato seed oil?

Artikkeli Tomato seed oil is full of antioxidants julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

What are skin moisturizing substances?

Skin moisturizing substances do not mean only a certain group of raw materials. The moisture balance of the skin can be affected in many different ways. Skin moisturizing substances are important when you want to create a good moisturizing lotion.

Occlusive substances

Epidermal moisture loss is a condition where the skin loses/evaporates moisture to the air. The skin can be protected with cosmetics so that it loses as little moisture as possible. These cosmetic substances are called occlusive substances. Occlusive agents are oil soluble. They form a protective film on the surface of the skin that prevents the moisture in the skin from evaporating. Occlusive ingredients are necessary when we stay in a very dry climate. This treatment is also known as slugging.

Skin softening agents

Moisturizing vegetable oils are often recommended for dry skin. The moisturizing effect of vegetable oils is not based on moisture but on their skin softening effect. Skin softening substances can also be occlusive so they also protect the skin from drying out.

Moisturising substances

There are two different types of actual moisturizing ingredients; ingredients that increase the moisture and ingredients that collect the moisture. Moisturizing ingredients bring more moisture to the skin.  For example, ingredients that increase the moisture are water, hydrolats, or aloe Vera gel.

Humectants

Ingredients that collect moisture have their own name. They are humectants. Humectants do not moisturize the skin if there is no basic moisture in the skin. Humectants retain the already existing moisture in the skin and collect more moisture around them, if there is any available. The best known and most used humectant is glycerol. Along with glycerol, hyaluronic acid is also used as a humectant in moisturizers.

Why are moisturizing ingredients used in cosmetics?

The moisturizing ingredients of the cosmetics take care of the hydration of the skin. In cosmetics, moisturizing ingredients are combined into one product, a moisturizing lotion. The main function of the moisturizing lotion is to bring more moisture to the skin, protect the skin from moisture loss, and even out the skin’s appearance and surface.

Dry skin feels uncomfortable and tightens. The skin reacts to dryness with itching, tingling and even pain. As it dries, the surface of the skin becomes rough. Dry skin also looks lifeless and grey. Moisturizing lotion gives dry skin a healthy colour and feel.

Moisturized skin is less susceptible to various skin diseases such as eczema and other atopic skin diseases.

How do moisturizing ingredients in cosmetics work on the skin?

The mechanism of action of moisturizing ingredients depends a lot on the type of ingredient. Lotions are made from carefully selected, mutually supportive ingredients. One moisturizing ingredient does not make a good moisturizing lotion. In many lotions, several different humectants and occlusive agents have been used to get the preferred product.

Water is essential for the skin

Moisture is vital for the skin. Without moisture, the skin would be paper thin and would tear easily from mere contact. The skin needs moisture to be able to function properly and repair itself. Healthy, young skin can take care of its own moisture because the body moisturizes the skin from the inside. As we age, the skin’s ability to take care of moisture decreases. The skin then needs extra care. You should also take care of moisture coming from your body. That is why it is important to drink enough water and other liquids.

Dry skin also needs moisture from the outside. Good moisturizing agents are water and all water-based ingredients such as hydrosols, herbal infusions or aloe Vera juice. The important, aqueous ingredients are found in the water phase of the emulsion lotion.

Occlusive substances protect the skin

Natural occlusive substances form a film on the surface of the skin that does not pass water but still allows the skin to breathe. Dry skin is often caused by excessive permeability of the skin. The skin evaporates too much moisture. Occlusive ingredients help the skin’s own protective layer to perform its task.

Mineral oil is used a lot in the treatment of dry skin because it has such good occlusive properties. However, mineral oil does not allow the skin to breathe freely. That’s why it’s worth replacing mineral oil with natural occlusive ingredients.

Beeswax is one of the most natural and oldest skin care products. Its skin-protecting properties are undeniable. Beeswax is antiseptic because of the ingredients it contains. Beeswax protects the skin without making the surface of the skin too dense.

Natural vegetable waxes such as carnauba wax and candelilla wax work on the skin in the same way as beeswax.

Some vegetable oils and butters also have occlusive properties. Some fatty acids contained in oils and vegetable creams are able to form a moisture-holding film on the surface of the skin. As an example, I can mention babassu oil, avocado oil or almond oil. There are also many other oils that have good occlusive properties.

Humectants attract water

The moisturizing ingredients contained in moisturizing lotions are absorbed into the skin to attract moisture around it. The lower layers of the skin contain more moisture than the upper ones. The moisturizing ingredients transfer the moisture from the lower layers to the surface of the skin. There are a few natural, moisturizing ingredients; glycerine, sorbitol and hyaluronic acid. All these ingredients work on the skin in their own special way. You can read more about glycerol or glycerine here.

Hyaluronic acid is a natural ingredient that is naturally present in our skin. Hyaluronic acid is continuously produced in the body. It occurs mostly in the eyes, joints and skin. Hyaluronic acid, intended as an ingredient in cosmetics, is produced by fermentation with the help of bacteria. Hyaluronic acid can also be of animal origin. Hyaluronic acid is one of the most expensive raw materials in cosmetics. It is used in cosmetic products only in very small amounts (1-2%). There are many different qualities of hyaluronic acid, depending on the molecular size of the product.

Hyaluronic acid is very effective at absorbing water. Its water absorption capacity is many times higher than that of glycerol. In addition to moisturizing, hyaluronic acid also makes your skin flexible. It belongs to the same series as collagen and elastin. Hyaluronic acid takes care of the skin’s elasticity, reducing wrinkles and fine lines. Due to its versatility, hyaluronic acid is a very popular ingredient in moisturizing creams and lotions.

Skin softening agents improve the appearance of the skin

Taking care of skin hydration is important. Moisturized skin is soft and flexible. Soft and flexible skin can receive more moisture. Softening ingredients repair the texture of dry skin. The most important skin-softening group of ingredients are various fats aka lipids. Ordinary vegetable oils soften the skin. That’s why vegetable oils are the most important ingredients in moisturizing products.

When vegetable oils are combined with water to form an emulsion, the skin softening effect is significantly greater. Especially for very dry skin, emulsion lotions are often better than water-free ones.

Squalene and squalane

Among lipids that soften the skin, I could mention squalane and squalene separately. Squalane and squalene are slightly different things. Squalene occurs naturally in human skin. The raw material for cosmetics, squalene, is obtained from olive oil.

Squalene starts to slowly disapper from the skin already after the age of 25. Very dry and aged skin has almost no squalene. That’s why you should add squalane made from olive oil to the skin. Squalane stays in the outer layers of the skin, improving the skin’s protective layer. Squalane softens the skin while forming a thin film on the surface of the skin. Another good feature of squalane is that it removes the feeling of greasiness from the cream.

Design your own moisturizer

Designing your own moisturizing product is easy when you know what you’re doing. Think about what properties you require from your cream. Just a skin feel or smell doesn’t say much about the cream. In order to preserve the skin’s moisture, your cream must contain softening, protective and moisturizing ingredients in the right proportion, as well as moisture, the water-containing ingredients.

For those of you who don’t like to make your own cosmetics, knowing the contents of the moisturizing product is also very necessary. Research products in different stores and look for protective, softening and moisturizing ingredients. I can assure you that there are a huge number of so-called moisturizing products for sale, which do not, however, moisturize the skin. If the product is missing any of the above-mentioned ingredients, you can be sure that the product will not work properly.

What are the ingredients in your favourite moisturizer?

Artikkeli The moisturizing ingredients of cosmetics; what does a good moisturizing lotion contain? julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Chrysanthemums are known as long lasting autumn flowers. We are not used to using chrysanthemums for nutrition. Please remember that no decoration plants can be used for food or skin care. Chrysanthemums bought from florist cannot be used in cosmetics. If you want to try chrysanthemums in cosmetics, get dried chrysanthemum flowers for tea. Chrysanthemum tea is very delicious and healthy. You can also use the same tea versatilely in skin care. Let’s see what a wonderful herb chrysanthemum really is.

The chrysanthemum family is extensive

Chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum) belong to the family of aster plants. Asters are a very large family of plants, which includes more than 1,600 plant genera. The same tribe includes different types of daisies and the familiar chamomile. The name chrysanthemum comes from the Greek language and means golden flower.

Chrysanthemum flowers come in many colours. White, yellow and lilac flowers are the most common of them. The world’s finest chrysanthemums, snow chrysanthemums grow wild high in the mountains of China, in Xinjiang. Snow chrysanthemums are extremely rare. They produce few flowers that bloom for a very short time. That is why snow chrysanthemums are the most valuable of all chrysanthemums. Snow chrysanthemum flowers are used to make tea.

Some chrysanthemum varieties are used to make the insecticide pyrethrin. Insects avoid chrysanthemum scent.

How does chrysanthemum infusion affect your health?

Chrysanthemum infusion is drunk in China and other parts of Asia not only because of its wonderful taste, but also because of its healthiness. Chrysanthemum infusion is even healthier than green tea. It has a lot of different minerals, antioxidants and amino acids. Helenatur is not really a health blog, but I still want to tell you about the health effects of chrysanthemum infusion. This way you will better understand the wonderful properties of this plant.

Chrysanthemum infusion is particularly relaxing

According to Chinese medicine, chrysanthemum is a cooling plant. Cold chrysanthemum tea with ice cubes is a drink on a hot day. The cooling feature is also relaxing. Chrysanthemum infusion contains a lot of potassium. Potassium dilates the blood vessels and makes the blood flow more gently also along the small blood vessels under the skin.

Chrysanthemum infusion boosts immunity

Chrysanthemum decoction contains plenty of vitamin A and C, which improve immunity. The high mineral content of the infusion also boosts the immune system. Potassium, calcium and magnesium work in their own way to support the immune system. Every cell in the human body needs potassium to function the way the cell is supposed to function. Magnesium helps regulate blood pressure. It is an important part of many body processes.

Chrysanthemum tea contains plenty of vitamin B

The group of vitamin B is big. Chrysanthemum decoction contains many of them such as folic acid, riboflavin, choline and niacin.

The benefits of chrysanthemum infusion in skin care

Chrysanthemum is a real treasure for your skin. As I already mentioned above, chrysanthemum is a cool type of herb. The cool herb is soothing. Excessive heat correlates with inflammation. You should take advantage of this characteristic of chrysanthemum if you want to use it in cosmetics.

Chrysanthemum contains a lot of beta-carotene. Beta-carotene is a precursor of vitamin A, which is very safe and beneficial for your skin. Beta-carotene is a powerful antioxidant that helps you keep your skin looking youthful.

Chrysanthemum infusion in hair care

Chrysanthemum zawadskii is a chrysanthemum species that has been found in some studies to have properties that affect hair growth. An extract made from this particular chrysanthemum has successfully treated hair loss and stimulated hair growth.

Chrysanthemum extract has been found to have a revitalizing effect on hair follicles. Sleeping hair follicles also come to life with the chrysanthemum treatment. This is how thin hair starts to thicken.

Even ordinary chrysanthemum can help with hair and scalp care. In hair care, use chrysanthemum decoction as a hair conditioner. After washing, rinse your hair with chrysanthemum water and leave it on for 5-10 minutes. Rinse your hair lightly with just water and let it dry on its own. Chrysanthemum water soothes the scalp and makes the hair soft and bending. The chrysanthemum rinse also soothes a flaky scalp.

You can also use herbal oil made from chrysanthemum to treat the scalp. Wash the scalp and hair carefully. Use your fingertips to apply about a tablespoon of chrysanthemum herbal oil to the scalp and leave it on for about 30 minutes. Wash your hair and scalp as usual with shampoo.

This is how you prepare chrysanthemum infusion

Chrysanthemum flowers can also be extracted into water. A herbal infusion made of chrysanthemum is suitable for facial lotions, steaming the skin or as a hair rinse. You can also use herbal infusion in the water phase of emulsion creams. As a base for washing products, an astringent and skin-soothing chrysanthemum infusion is ideal.

You can make chrysanthemum infusion from dried chrysanthemum flowers. All you need is 5 dried chrysanthemum flowers and 3.5 decilitres of boiling water. Pour boiling water over the flowers and let them brew for about 3-5 minutes. Strain the flowers from the tea and your perfect infusion is ready.

Herbal oil made from chrysanthemum soothes your skin

In addition to herbal infusion, you can extract chrysanthemum flowers into the vegetable oil of your choice. A suitable oil for extracting chrysanthemum flowers could be, for example, filtered grape seed oil or safflower oil. These two oils are light and support the effect of chrysanthemum on the skin.

When I talk about chrysanthemum oil, I don’t mean chrysanthemum essential oil, but vegetable oil-based herbal oil. These two things should not be confused. Herbal oil made by extracting chrysanthemum flowers and base oil is a really effective cosmetic product just as it is.

Oil extract made from chrysanthemum has traditionally been used for oily skin. It is an astringent oil that shrinks pores and brightens and evens skin tone. Chrysanthemum oil removes irritation and helps reduce inflammation and acne.

Chrysanthemum oil is full of polyphenols such as quercetin, luteolin, apigenin. These antioxidants help your skin fight the signs of aging. You can also use chrysanthemum oil on its own for the sensitive skin around the eyes. The beta-carotene in the oil helps regenerate cells and remove waste products from the skin.

The anti-inflammatory properties of chrysanthemum oil soothe the skin and remove swelling. The oil can also be used for burns and after sunbathing to soothe the skin.

This is how to make herbal oil from chrysanthemum flowers

Using Chrysanthemum oil is one popular way to use this herb in cosmetics. Prepare herbal oil from dried chrysanthemum flowers according to my basic instructions. Chrysanthemum oil is well suited for the preparation of creams and serums. You can also use chrysanthemum oil as it is, either in skin care or on the scalp.

Chrysanthemum is a phototoxic plant

The chrysanthemum also has its unpleasant side effects. If you are exposed to UV light at the same time as using chrysanthemum cosmetics, your skin may develop a rash or even blisters. This is called a phototoxic reaction. Some plants have a tendency to react with sunlight. So, use chrysanthemum only in night creams and serums used only during night time.

You can be allergic to chrysanthemum. Chrysanthemums belong to mycorrhizal plants, which are known to cause allergies. However, you should not worry about this unless you are really sensitized to composite plants. Chrysanthemums are such effective and useful plants in skin care that you really should pay attention to them. If you are concerned about allergies, you can easily do an exposure test yourself with chrysanthemums.

Artikkeli Chrysanthemum in skin care julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Calendula oil is a very gentle cosmetic oil

Calendula comes from the Mediterranean region. Calendula has become a favourite plant among gardeners because they bloom long and abundantly. The pleasant grassy scent and bright orange-yellow flowers of calendulas delight everyone. Calendulas are non-toxic and can also be used as a decoration in salads and as a substitute for expensive saffron to bring in some colour to the food.

Calendula is known in cosmetics for its many benefits. Calendulas are anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial. A wide range of compounds found in the plant’s flowers, including various essential oils, flavonoids, saponins, triterpene alcohols and carotenes, work together to accelerate cell proliferation and inhibit bacteria and fungi at skin lesions. Calendula does not contain strong plant chemicals that cause allergies and skin irritation. Therefore, calendula products are also suitable for babies and elderly persons. Of course, anyone can also be allergic to calendula. If you suffer from allergies, test all new products carefully on your skin first.

How calendula oil is made?

If you want to add plant power to your products, the easiest way is to prepare macerated oils. Calendula oil is perhaps the most common macerated oil. The most important active ingredients of calendula are transferred to the oil extract during maceration.

Maceration is basically a fairly simple method. Calendula flowers are dried and crushed. In this way, most of the plant’s valuable active ingredients are recovered. Good quality sunflower oil is poured over the dried petals. Good quality olive oil can also be used. The mostly used oil in maceration is purified sunflower oil. Unrefined sunflower oil has a very heavy scent that may bother some users.

Calendula oil is usually macerated using a hot method. Nowadays, I myself prefer the fast and safe hot method. In the hot method, the mixture of petals and oil is heated up to around 60-70 degrees Celsius, sometimes up to 80 degrees. At this temperature, delicate plant chemicals are extracted into the oil. Some manufacturers use higher temperatures and others macerate their oils at lower temperatures. The quality of the oil depends a lot on the temperature used and the extraction time. That’s why there are big differences in calendula oils from different manufacturers.

Calendula oil does not contain any additional chemicals. A little vitamin E is often added to calendula oil to prevent oxidation of the oil. No other chemicals are needed.

If you want to know more about the quality of the calendula oil you are using, you should contact the seller and ask more detailed information.

Make your own calendula oil

If you want to make calendula oil from your own calendulas, it is quite easy. I have written a comprehensive article on my blog about the preparation of oil extraction. Homemade calendula oil has many advantages. You know exactly the quality of the ingredients used and the best before -date of the oil you are using. You can also choose the oil you like for maceration and the temperature at which you want to macerate. You should try different oils and different temperatures. You can also make your own calendula oil in organic quality, if you just choose organic oil.

How does calendula oil affect the skin?

Calendula oil is full of wonderful phytochemicals. It is antimicrobial and full of skin-protecting antioxidants. Use calendula oil as such.

For minor skin damage and abrasions – Calendula is recommended as a first aid for minor skin damage such as abrasions. You can use calendula oil as such for rubbing or make a treatment salve from it together with beeswax for your home pharmacy.

For irritated and reddened skin – Your skin may be irritated for many different reasons. The reason is often cosmetics that are not suitable for the skin, external conditions such as wind or too dry indoor air. If your skin is irritated, avoid complex cosmetic products with many ingredients. Replace your cosmetics with simple products such as pure oils. Calendula oil contains skin-soothing and moisturizing ingredients that are beneficial for irritated skin.

After sunbathing to soothe the skin – Calendula oil soothes the skin because it is anti-inflammatory. Calendula’s soothing agents care for skin irritated by the sun. The skin also dries out easily due to the influence of the sun. Calendula contains ingredients that affect the moisture balance of the skin. However, before adding the oil, skin irritated by the sun should be moistened for example with aloe Vera gel.

As a moisturizer for oily skin – Oily skin clogs easily. If you have easily clogged skin, you should avoid complex cosmetics that contain a lot of chemicals. Instead, use very simple products like oil. Calendula oil contains skin-soothing ingredients that curb inflammatory reactions on the skin and prevent surface dryness of the skin. Remember to use the oil on moisturized skin. A very small amount is enough to take care of your skin.

For dry skin – If your skin is dry, calendula oil will help keep it moisturized. Rub a small amount of calendula oil directly onto pre-moisturized skin.

Calendula oil for hair

Calendula oil should definitely be tried for hair care as well. In hair care, attention must be paid to the condition of the scalp and hair follicles. Hair follicles are parts of the scalp from which the hair grows. The condition of the hair follicles also significantly affects the condition of the hair. If the scalp and hair follicles are suffering from dryness or irritated from excessive washing and processing, the hair is not doing well. Hair starts to fall out more abundantly and the scalp may also become inflamed.

The condition of the hair collapses little by little. It also recovers little by little. That’s why you have to be very patient while taking care of your hair. One treatment session is just the beginning.

Calendula’s antimicrobial agents help damaged hair follicles to heal. Calendula contains a lot of useful minerals for the scalp, such as iodine and manganese. It also contains a lot of carotenoids, which are precursors of vitamin A. Calendula improves blood circulation in the scalp and gives the hair follicle more oxygen. This way, new skin cells are able to form faster.

Calendula oil treats and moisturizes dry, sensitive scalp

If your scalp itches easily, it’s probably too dry. Itching can also be caused by an allergy or because your scalp is irritated by some chemical.

Calendula treatment helps with dandruff if the dandruff is dry. Oily dandruff does not go away with calendula oil.

Use your fingertips to apply a small amount of calendula oil to the scalp and leave it on for about an hour. Wash the unabsorbed oil from your hair. However, do not use the same shampoo as the last time, as it may be the reason for the poor condition of the scalp.

If your scalp is irritated, stop using your usual shampoo. It might be too washing for you or contain irritating chemicals. Even natural cosmetics-grade shampoos may irritate the scalp.

 There are many other ways to clean up your scalp than just using shampoo. I personally prefer washing with water and, if necessary, egg yolk. Mix one egg yolk with a dash of lukewarm water and mix. Wash your scalp with the mixture. Egg yolk contains a lot of lecithin, which is a fat-releasing agent. When washing with the yolk, use only lukewarm water, as the yolk starts to coagulate already at 40 degrees Celsius.

Calendula oil is suitable for young children as well as for elderly people

Calendula oil is a multipurpose oil for the whole family. It is suitable for childcare to soothe, for example, nappy rash. Calendula oil is well tolerated and has been used for centuries in child care. However, check that your child is not allergic to calendula.

A salve made of calendula oil and beeswax is well suited for children over 1 year old. Salves are easy to use and easier to store than liquid oils.

Special attention should be paid to the skin care of the elderly people over 80 years old. The elderly persons are big consumers of the pharmacy’s basic creams. The skin thins significantly with age. Thin skin is prone to dryness and many skin diseases. The thin, dry skin of the seniors cannot withstand strong chemicals or essential oils. For the skin of the elderly persons, it is worth trying mild, natural oils such as calendula oil or a salve made from it.

Remember that the skin of the elderly persons should also be well moisturized before applying anhydrous oil or salve. A mixture of distilled water and glycerol (1 part glycerol, 9 parts water) is very suitable for moisturizing the skin of the seniors.

Calendula oil in pet care

Calendula oil is perfect for treating skin problems in family pets. Try calendula oil on small damage to your pet’s skin, such as insect bites, abrasions or post-surgery scars. You can make a salve from calendula oil or use it as such. Calendula can also be used as an infusion or brewed tea to wash your pet’s irritated skin. Calendula has a mild skin astringent effect and antimicrobial nature.

Calendula can also be used in the health care of dogs in many different ways. It is a safe and mild herb giving incredibly effective results.

How do you use Calendula oil in skin care?

Artikkeli Calendula infused oil julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

What does ozonation mean?

The ozonation generator was once developed by Nikola Tesla. Nikola Tesla (1856-1943) was a famous Serbian genius and inventor who patented a huge number of inventions. He developed e.g., alternating current and wireless data transmission. Not to mention that his research was the basis for X-ray technology, radar, the electron microscope, and the microwave oven. Pretty impressive, isn’t it.

Shortly after patenting his ozone generator, Nikola Tesla founded the Tesla Ozone Co. and began ozonating olive oil. His ozonation process took weeks. Tesla’s ozone generator slowly pushed ozone through the oil in an electromagnetic environment. It was a catalytic reaction that practically burned the olive oil and essentially changed its composition. A compound called C10H18O3 was formed in the olive oil.

Today, more efficient and faster manufacturing methods have been developed for ozonation. A solvent is added to the oil, which facilitates the passage of ozone through the oil. The power and quality of ozonated olive oil depend very much on the ozonation methods.

Ozone generators developed by Tesla are currently used as air purifiers and for disinfecting hospital premises. Ozone effectively removes odours and microbes from the premises. Ozonated olive oil has remained a marginal product.

The rise and fall of medical ozone treatments

Nikola Tesla started marketing ozonated olive oil, aka Glycozone, to doctors. Doctors also ozonated water with the generator, which was called hydrozone. Both glycozone and hydrozone were used in the early 20^th century as a treatment for just about every disease imaginable. Ozonated products gained a reputation as a miracle cure. Leading American doctors wrote a book about ozone treatments, in which it was claimed that ozonated products are effective for 114 different diseases.

In 1933, a dramatic turn occurred and the medical effect of ozonated products began to be doubted. The American Medical Association decided to remove all ozone treatments from its list of medical treatments. In the 1940s, the FDA began seizing ozone generators, deeming them dangerous to human health.

Even today, ozonated oils have been studied for a long time, but there is still no consensus on their medical effect.

What is the power of ozonated olive oil based on?

Ozone is a gas that evaporates very quickly into the atmosphere. Therefore, ozonated oils usually do not contain much ozone. Most of the ozone evaporates during the manufacturing process. The actual power of ozonated olive oil is based on the compounds that are formed during the ozonation process. Ozone heats the oil, causing peroxides to form in the oil and eventually a compound called C10H18O3. When the olive oil ozonation process is complete, the oil has turned into a clear, gel-like oil. Fully ozonated olive oil contains a lot of the active ingredient, the C10H18O3 compound.

Ozonated oils make a difference

Ozonation of oils is a complex, slow and expensive process. That is why ozonated olive oil is quite expensive. There are currently a large number of products for sale under the name of ozonated olive oil, but the effectiveness is not guaranteed at all. The consumer cannot know with certainty how much the product contains the C10H18O3 compound or whether it contains it at all. Also, the amount of ozone that may be present in the product is usually not indicated. This is a big problem. The authenticity of ozonated oils, possible active substances and their purity remain unproven. Improperly prepared ozonated oils contain no active ingredients at all.

Ozonated oils are almost certainly counterfeit products. It is difficult for the consumer to be convinced of the authenticity of ozonation. There are also instructions online on how to prepare ozonated olive oil yourself. In reality, ozonating oils is not at all easy and it cannot be done without the appropriate equipment.

Ozonation can be performed on other oils as well. There is ozonated jojoba oil, ozonated coconut oil, ozonated almond oil, and several other ozonated oils. These all have roughly the same effect and purpose.

When you buy ozonized olive oil, choose the place of purchase and the brand carefully. Prefer well-known, trusted brands.

What is ozonated olive oil used for?

Ozonated olive oil was once used for skin diseases. It was a medical innovation that was written about in medical journals. Today, ozonated oil belong to cosmetics. Their medical side is very controversial. Nowadays, ozonated oils are not allowed to be advertised as medicines. However, ozonated oils can be used for cosmetic purposes. They are safe to use and suitable for all ages.

While regular olive oil easily clogs pores, ozonated olive oil does not. Ozonated oils cannot be compared to untreated equivalent oils.

Antibacterial property is the best-known property of ozonated oils

Due to their antibacterial properties, ozonated oils have been used for irritated skin, small cuts and scratches and pimples. You can also try it on mature skin to reduce the signs of aging. Below are a few uses for ozonated oils.

• Stimulation of skin regeneration
• Skin soothing
• Skin moisturizing ingredient
• Natural deodorant
• Slowing down the signs of skin aging
• Treatment of scars
• Insect bites and stings

It is difficult to get reliable information about ozonated oils

Ozonated oils have been studied a lot. However, the research results have never been undisputed. What is certain, however, is that ozonated oils are safe to use. They do not contain any toxic compounds.

I strongly recommend you to try ozonated oils. Only by experimenting can you may know if they are suitable for your skin problems. I believe that Nikola Tesla, one of the most gifted geniuses in the world, could not be completely wrong. Effects may be hidden in ozonated oils, the mechanism of action of which has not yet been fully revealed to us.

Have you ever used ozonated oils? Share your own experience.

Artikkeli What is Ozonated olive oil? julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Butterfly pea; The sacred flower of India

The butterfly pea is native to Asia. It is a fairly common “weed” in South and Southeast Asia. The Latin name Clitoria ternatea tells of the appearance of the flower. It somehow resembles a clitoris. Ternate is again a city in Indonesia from which the botanist Linnè found a flower and gave it a name. Today, butterfly pea has also spread to the continents of America, Africa and Australia.

Butterfly pea flowers are sacred flowers in India. They are an important part of the daily worship ritual, the puja. The puja ritual means worshipping different Gods. The idea is to provide food, water, light, and flowers as a symbol of love to the Gods. The Puja ritual is a very integral part of the Hindu tradition. In Asia, people are seen daily practicing Puja rituals in their yards. The Puja ritual originally meant a flower sacrifice to the gods. An important flower in this ritual has always been the butterfly pea.

A rare, deep blue colour is characteristic of a butterfly pea

Butterfly pea as a plant is quite modest. It is a climbing plant that thrives in places where only hay thrives. Dusty, dry roadside area is the home of ​ butterfly pea. Dry forest side areas are often blue with butterfly pea flowers. The blue colour is very intense. It’s hard to come up with anything that would be as blue.

Butterfly pea is also grown in gardens. The plant spreads on the ground and covers large areas with its blue flowers. Butterfly pea is a great undergrowth in tropical gardens.

As a pea plant, the roots of the butterfly pea form a symbiosis with the soil bacteria. The phenomenon is known as rhizobia. The root nodules of a plant contain rhizobia bacteria that bind nitrogen, converting it to a form suitable for the plant.

Butterfly pea is part of Far Eastern culinary culture

The butterfly pea is an integral part of the food culture of India, Indonesia and Thailand. The blue-coloured rice is obtained with the flowers of a butterfly pea. Many drinks get their colour from the butterfly pea. For example, there is a colour-changing gin for sale. The drink is beautifully blue first. If you drop a slice of lime in it, it will instantly turn purple red. At its most typical form, however, butterfly pea is a non-alcoholic beverage served both hot and cold with ice.

Butterfly pea is an important part of Ayurvedic medicine

Butterfly pea is a highly antioxidant plant with absolutely incredible effects on health. Ayurveda is an Indian traditional medicine that was established as early as the Vedic period. In Ayurveda, the butterfly pea plant is used to improve memory, relieve stress, depression, anxiety and prevent seizures.

The Chinese use the butterfly pea plant to increase female libido as the plant resembles the clitoris.

Butterfly pea extract has been shown in some studies to affect the problems caused by the neurotransmitters like serotonin and acetylcholine.

Due to its rich blue colour, the butterfly pea plant is also used for dyeing fabrics and yarns.

Butterfly pea is perfect plant for cosmetics

Butterfly pea has really a lot to give to cosmetics. The intense blue colour of the plant is really welcome in many products. Blue is best utilized in soaps and other alkaline products. The colour changes to a beautiful purple if the pH of the product is below 7. This is usually the case with all products left on the skin. There are very limited amounts of dyes in natural cosmetics. If mica colours are not included, only shades of orange (yellow base) are available in shades of red. The natural, blue-refracting shades of red I cannot think about other than the butterfly pea.

Butterfly pea is very therapeutic in skin care

Butterfly pea contains the same flavonoid called anthocyanin as, for example, super healthy wild blueberries. Butterfly pea anthocyanin just isn’t that messy and smudging than blueberry. The anthocyanins contained in the butterfly pea are called deacyl ternatine, ternatins (A1, A2, B1, B2, D1, D2), etc.

Polyphenols such as proanthocyanidin contained in the butterfly pea are powerful antioxidants. They stimulate the natural production of collagen and elastane and thus affect the elasticity of the skin. Antioxidants also soothe the skin and prevent inflammation. Such a feature is good, for example, in products used after sunbathing.

Butterfly pea has been of interest to cosmetic manufacturers for a long time. In one study, fermented butterfly pea extract was tested on irritated skin. The extract relieved itching, soothed the skin and reduced inflammation. Fermented a butterfly pea could be an even more effective antioxidant.

A particularly good feature of Butterfly pea is that it is astringent. The extract made from the flowers is a particularly good base for toners. Butterfly pea toner shrinks pores, soothes and brightens the skin and fights the signs of aging.

The butterfly pea cares for the scalp

Butterfly pea extract is used as a medicine for hair loss due to the anthocyanins it contains. Anthocyanins nourish hair follicles. This promotes hair growth and prevents hair loss. Therefore, butterfly pea extracts are quite often found in hair products such as shampoos, conditioners and hair masks.

I hope that the wonderful properties of butterfly pea would be better known

Currently, dried inflorescences of butterfly pea are quite difficult to find. Although the plant is as common in Asia as chamomile in Europe, it has not gained the attention of the general public. I wrote this article about butterfly head just because you could get excited to try it. I already mentioned the beautiful blue butterfly pea flowers in my book Home Cosmetics – Raw Materials and Manufacturing.

If you are able to get dried flowers of butterfly pea you can use them in many of your projects. The flowers remain good for about a year depending on, of course, how old they are when purchased. Store flowers in a light, cool, dry place. However, not in the refrigerator. I prefer to keep my own flowers in a paper bag, as they do not contain volatile aromatic substances. The flowers are completely odourless. In the dry room air, protected from light, the flowers remain flawless.

Usually only 4-5 flowers are needed for cosmetics. You can use the remaining flowers, for example, as a tea or you can prepare a fresh, cold drink from the flowers. This way, you also get good antioxidants for your skin internally. The tea has a mild taste and is suitable for the whole family.

Artikkeli Butterfly pea; azure colour and caring flavonoids julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Andiroba is a traditional tree in the Amazon rainforest

The Andiroba tree, (Carapas guianensis), is a typical tree of the Amazon rainforest. It belongs to the plants used by the indigenous people of Brazil. The greenery of Andiroba is dense and the tree is very tall. It grows riverside in tropical rainforests. Andiroba is one of those trees that is preferably logged from the rainforest into lumber. The tree belongs to the mahogany family, although it is not classified as genuine mahogany.

The popularity of Andiroba as sawn timber is due to the terpenes it contains. The tree naturally repels mold, fungi and other microbes. It is a durable wood and therefore highly sought after as a building material. Andiroba also has an insect repellent property. Pests do not thrive on andiro boards. Andiroba oil is also commonly used to make insect repellents.

Andiroba oil production

An adult tree can produce up to 120 pounds of seeds. The average output is about 50 pounds. The seeds contain 40% fat. 12 kilos of seeds are needed to make one litre of oil produced by solvent technology. If produced by mechanical cold pressing, considerably more seeds per litre of oil are needed.

Traditionally, andiroba oil is made by boiling nuts. After boiling, the nuts are fermented for 25 days. The soft core is removed from the fermented nuts. The core is left to drain for a few weeks. This naturally removes oil from the seeds without pressing. The process is completely natural. No chemicals or compression equipment is required. Such andiroba oil is rare. Andiroba oil sold for cosmetics is usually cold pressed.

Why is it important to favour andiroba oil in cosmetics?

I am writing this series of “Rainforest Treasures” for ecological and ethical reasons. Of course, we have to favour domestic products, that’s for sure. However, Amazon’s rainforests are the lungs of the world. The world’s rainforests are threatened by massive logging. Many trees are utilized as sawn timber. Once the rainforest is felled, it will be replaced by a corn field or perhaps soybeans. The destruction of a natural rainforest biotope is catastrophic for many different reasons.

If we diligently use the natural products of Amazon’s rainforests, there is no need to cut down the trees at all. The indigenous people earn their living by selling the products that the jungle produces and there will be no need to log the trees anymore. Andiroba nuts is a good example of this.

Andiroba trees have also been cultivated in rainforests, with large plantations. With this cultivation, the problems are same with the monoculture. The biodiversity of the rainforest is disappearing. Trees are exposed to pests and the crop suffers. Chemicals are needed to destroy diseases and insects. Chemicals destroy other organisms in the rainforest. The circle is ready. It is worth researching carefully that the rainforest products you buy are sustainably produced.

What is andiroba oil?

Andiroba oil is also called crab oil although it has nothing to do with crabs. Andiroba oil is a 100% vegan product that is pressed from the nuts of the andiroba trees. The oil is rich in hard fatty acids. It is thick and slightly reminiscent of Vaseline when cooled. The oil is pale yellow in colour and very bitter. The bitterness is due to a group of terpenes called Meliacines. Andiroba oil solidifies at 25 degrees like coconut oil.

One of the Meliacines in andiroba oil is called Gedunin. Gedunin has been shown to have similar anti-malarial properties to quinine. In chemical analyses, andiroba oil has been found to be highly curative and anti-inflammatory. These properties are due to the limonoids in the oil, called andirobins.

Fatty acids from andiroba oil

Andiroba oil is rich in hard fatty acids. However, the main fatty acid in andiroba oil is oleic acid. Palmitic acid in andiroba oil is up to over 30%. It is the rich palmitic acid that makes andiroba oil very firm and thick. Stearic acid is also abundant in oil.

The main fatty acids in andiroba oil

• Oleic acid 45-58%
• Palmitic acid 25-32
• Stearic acid 6-13%
• Linoleic acid 6-14%

Comedogenic classification 2

Colour yellowish

The aroma is strong, muscular

Andiroba has numerous medicinal properties

Andiroba oil is one of the best-selling medicinal oils in the Amazon rainforest. Andiroba oil is usually mixed with honey and used internally for many ailments. Honey is included not only as a health-promoting product but also because the andiroba oil tastes very bitter. With a mixture of honey and oil, locals have always fought flu and sore throats.

Fatty and thick andiroba oil doesn’t sound very good for acne prone skin. However, local people in Amazon  have successfully used andiroba oil for acne prone skin. The oil is very antimicrobial. Therefore, it soothes inflammation well.

Andiroba oil is well absorbed into the skin. Therefore, it can affect the deepest parts of the skin. Local people have also used andiroba oil to treat bruises and sore joints. Andiroba oil is especially popular as a massage oil. It’s like made to relax sore muscles.

Benefits of Andiroba Oil in Cosmetics

Andiroba oil contains a huge number of antioxidants, vitamins and minerals. It is a very useful oil to regenerate the skin. The nutrients in andiroba oil are especially suitable for aging skin. The oil contains ingredients that have a beneficial effect on collagen production. Andiroba oil reduces wrinkles on the skin.

Andiroba oil is worth trying for many skin problems. It has plenty of skin rejuvenating and protective effects. Please bear in mind, however, that this particular oil is very strong and contains terpenes. Terpenes can cause severe allergies, especially to people who are allergic to resins. First, test if you tolerate andiroba oil at all. If you suffer from eczema, be really careful when trying new products. Although andiroba is specifically recommended for eczema and psoriasis, I would still be careful.

Andiroba oil has been used with success in the treatment of hair and scalp. As an antimicrobial oil, andiroba oil is well suited for treating scalp problems. For example, dandruff or itching of the scalp could be cured with a serum containing andiroba oil.

Andiroba oil also supports hair follicles and stimulates blood circulation to the scalp. This will make your hair grow better.

Andiroba oil is rich in palmitoleic acid, which protects the skin from drying out as well as external factors.

What products can andiroba oil be used for?

First of all, Andiroba oil seems to be a specialty oil suitable for body products. However, its use range is much wider. Andiroba oil, despite its heaviness, is a relatively fast-absorbing oil. That is why it is also worth trying for facial skin and hair care.

Prepare from andiroba oil

• Massage oils to treat sore joints and muscles
• Night creams and protective day creams to treat aging skin
• Creams for impure skin
• Creams for irritated skin
• Antimicrobial creams for foot care
• Oil treatment serums for the scalp
• For soap making; special care soaps

Due to its bitter taste, andiroba oil should not be included in lip products.

Try andiroba oil as an insect repellent. Andiroba oil has a strong, musky scent that repels insects. If mosquitoes are being fought in the Amazon rainforest, why not in other areas as well. Did you know that neem oil is also quite an effective mosquito repellent?

Artikkeli Rainforest treasures; andiroba oil julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.