Should I do a ceramide-rich salve or an emulsion?

The difference between a salve and an emulsion is clear; Salve is a water-free product, only oils and beeswax are used to make it or, alternatively, some other wax is used to solidify the oil. In the preparation of an emulsion, both water and oil are needed, as well as an emulsifier to connect these two ingredients together.

I decided to choose an emulsion-type cream for this product. Moisturizing the skin is not possible without liquid. Of course, you can moisturize the skin in advance, before applying the cream, and then add the anhydrous salve to the skin. The emulsion is just so convenient to use. With one treatment, the skin gets both hydration and protection. Making an emulsion cream is not difficult at all. If you have never made an emulsion cream before, you can find the basic instructions for making an emulsion cream on my website; This is how a homemade emulsion cream is created.

You can read more about ceramides here; Ceramides; dry skin rescue. Cholesterol should also be used in creams together with ceramides, as it supports the effect of ceramides. However, cholesterol is a very difficult ingredient to process. I haven’t worked with the cholesterol myself precisely because of its challenging nature.

Moisturizing ingredients for ceramide cream

The purpose of this cream is to moisturize the skin and protect the skin from drying out. The purpose of ceramides is specifically to protect the skin. In order for the cream to work by moisturizing dry skin, moisturizing factors must be added separately to the cream.

This cream contains three moisturizing ingredients that work in different ways. Of course, you can leave out some of the moisturizing factors if you don’t have them available. However, it would be important to use at least one of the following ingredients.

Marshmallow root

Marshmallow root is very moisturizing. It is usually used in hair care because it leaves a nice texture in the hair and adds volume. The herbal marshmallow root is also suitable for skin care. It’s a mallow plant. If you have mallows in your yard, you can also use their roots. The roots of mallows are very much more delicate than the roots of the marshmallow’s root. That’s why only the leaves and cores are often used. The roots and leaves of burr are also suitable for this purpose.

Marshmallow contains a lot of skin and hair moisturizing mucilage. There are a lot of mucilage substances in the whole plant, but most in the roots. The herbal marshmallow root is sold in herbal shops in small light cubes. The cubes are boiled in water and the broth is used for making cosmetics. Marshmallow roots are completely non-toxic. The first marshmallow candy was a vegan delicacy. They were made from marshmallow roots (marshmallow) and sugar.

Allantoin

One of the most moisturizing ingredients is allantoin. It is a white powder that dissolves very easily in water up to 0.5%. Allantoin is therefore dosed very moderately. If you don’t have a scale accurate enough, dose allantoin like adding carefully just a little more salt on food.

Allantoin exists in both plant and animal sources. Allantoin is a salt of uric acid that is secreted by mammals. It is also obtained from plants like horse chestnuts and wheat germ. Many wild plants such as buttercups also contain allantoin. However, buttercups are slightly toxic, so they should not be used in cosmetics.

Since allantoin is a quite natural product, the skin tolerates it well. Allantoin has many good properties, so it should be included in the cream formula.

• Allantoin moisturizes the skin very effectively
• Allantoin works like keratolytic, which means it removes indurations from the skin.
• Allantoin increases cell renewal and promotes skin healing
• Allantoin reduces skin irritation
• Allantoin soothes the skin and reduces inflammatory reactions

Glycerol or glycerine

Glycerine is an old, familiar friend to the readers of this blog. Lipids, like oils, consist of fatty acids and glycerine. Glycerine is isolated from vegetable oils. Glycerine is a colourless and odourless liquid. The taste of glycerine is very sweet. Glycerine is a completely non-toxic substance that is also used in the food industry as an additive. It mixes well with water and oil.

Glycerine is used in cosmetics mainly because of its moisturizing properties. Glycerine binds a lot of water. Glycerin takes water from its surroundings like from the skin.  Glycerine helps the moisture to stay in the skin. If there is no moisture in the skin, glycerine will only harm the skin. That’s why glycerine is used in water-based products like emulsions.

You shouldn’t use too much glycerine in the product because it easily makes the skin sticky. It’s a sugar alcohol. Glycerine also requires plenty of water around it. A suitable dosage for glycerine in cream is about 2-5% of the total weight of the product.

You can read my article about glycerine here; This is how miracle-making glycerol helps in the treatment of dry winter skin.

Excipients for ceramide cream

In this cream, I also used the familiar Olivem 1000 emulsifier derived from olive oil and the Geogard 221 preservative, which is ECOCERT approved. You can also use familiar Eco preservative, which is a very safe and versatile preservative system. It is absolutely necessary to use a preservative for products containing water. Otherwise, your wonderful cream will be spoiled in a few days.

Skin softening oils

I have chosen a light base oil for this product, which is easily absorbed by the skin. The protection of the cream is achieved with ceramides, which means that the oil can be very light and easily absorbed. That’s why I used safflower oil for the cream this time. Grapeseed oil is also light enough for this cream.

To complete the oleic acid profile of safflower oil, I chose nourishing blackcurrant seed oil. Blackcurrant seed oil contains a lot of gamma-linolenic acid, which is not found in base oils. Blackcurrant seed oil is a special oil that only a very small amount is needed in the product.

Prescription; moisturizing Ceramide Cream

You can use the moisturizing ceramide cream perfectly on your entire body. I personally use this after a sauna or a shower on the whole body. The cream is also suitable for children and especially for elderly people.

This dose may be too small if you want to use the cream all over your body. If you like cream, double or even quadruple the dose like I did.

This emulsion cream becomes very thin, milky and light. I think the cream moisturizes better if there is plenty of liquid in it. If you want a firmer, thicker cream, reduce the amount of liquid but keep the ratio of oil and emulsifier the same.

Formulating cosmetics is fun but challenging. If you want to test the structure of the cream, don’t use expensive ceramide and your finest oils. Make your training version with just water, cheap cooking oil and an emulsifier.

You need these:

• A double boiler or a standard flat boiler
• Two heat-resistant dishes; one for the water phase and the other for the oil phase
• A small whisk or glass stirring rod
• Thermometer
• A scale that measures tenths of a gram
• Pump bottle for packaging

Ingredients

First, you need to prepare the marshmallow root decoction.

Marshmallow root decoction;

• 2 tablespoons of dried marshmallow root
• about 4 decilitres of water

Boil the marshmallow root slowly in water for about 15 minutes. Filter the decoction and use it in the water phase of the cream or as a hair conditioner.

• 70 gr of marshmallow root decoction
• 10 gr of safflower oil
• 2 gr blackcurrant seed oil. Nature by Amppu sells particularly good quality blackcurrant seed oil
• 2.5 gr of glycerol/ glycerine
• 2 gr ceramide pellets, I used Limepop’s Ceramide NP III Eco product
• 0.3 gr allantoin
• 3.5 gr Olivem 1000 emulsifier
• 0.7 gr Geogard 221 preservative

Do like this:

• Put water in the empty pot
• Measure the marshmallow root decoction and glycerol in another container and mix.
• Measure safflower oil, ceramide pellets and Olivem 1000 emulsifier into another container
• Place the both phases in a water bath and heat them to over 70 degrees Celsius.
• Stir the oil phase from time to time so that the emulsifier and ceramide melt completely
• Combine the phases by carefully pouring the oil phase into the water phase while gently mixing
• Remove the emulsion from the water bath and continue mixing until the temperature has dropped below 40 degrees
• Add blackcurrant seed oil, allantoin and preservative. Mix thoroughly
• Pour the emulsion into a clean pump bottle or other container. The storage containers should first be cleaned carefully with clear, strong alcohol.
• Label the bottled product with a list of ingredients and the date.
• The product remains usable for about 3-4 months at room temperature, protected from light

This is how you use a moisturizing ceramides cream

Apply the cream on moist skin. Best timing is at the end of a shower or sauna. Apply the cream to the skin by massaging lightly. You can use ceramide-rich emulsion cream for both your face and body.

Let the cream soak in for a few minutes so that the moisture in the cream can be properly absorbed into the skin. After a while, the skin feels very soft and moisturized, but not greasy at all. Ceramides do not remain on the surface of the skin but are absorbed deep into the skin, creating a natural moisturized feeling. A pleasant feeling remains on the surface of the skin.

The gentle, moisturizing ceramide cream is suitable for the whole family.

Let me know what you think about this cream!

Artikkeli Moisturizing Ceramide cream julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

How can I make an effective aloe vera and papaya cream at home?

You only need a few ingredients for this cream. If you do not know how to make emulsion creams you can study it here. I have written a simple how-to-do guide for everyone. It is definitely worthwhile to learn the technique of making an emulsion cream. You can easily include most of the natural ingredients needed for skin care in the water-based lotion.

Aloe Vera is a familiar ingredient to many

Now we use aloe vera for a slightly different purpose than usual. Aloe Vera contains hundreds of active ingredients. That is why it is a very common ingredient in almost all cosmetics. In this cream, we take advantage of aloe Vera’s ability to really moisturize the skin. Many, very highly effective moisturizing serums are based also on Aloe Vera. This tells a lot about the effectiveness of Aloe Vera.

Papaya is full of antioxidants

Papaya contains many of the same active ingredients as carrots. In addition to carotenoids, Papaya contains incredible number of vitamins and minerals.

• Papaya provides the skin with potassium, phosphorus and magnesium.
• Papaya is rich in vitamins such as A, B & A, C, E and K.
• Papaya brightens the skin, smoothest the skin’s pigment and helps maintain moisture in the skin.
• Papaya also helps to reduce small wrinkles on the skin as it is rich in antioxidants and vitamin C.

Papaya is commonly used in peeling products because it contains an enzyme called papain. Papain exfoliates the skin enzymatically without rubbing. Most papaya is found in raw papaya and also in papaya skin.

Now we are not using raw papaya or papaya skin but the flesh of ripe papaya. I have prepared a fast glycerite based on ripe papaya flesh. In glycerite, the skin care agents of papaya are transferred from papaya to glycerol during extraction. This way we can also include papaya in our lotion. Glycerol itself is already a very moisturizing ingredient. However, it is not a good idea to add it a lot to the cream because it easily makes the skin surface sticky. Glycerol is a sugar alcohol and has some disadvantages of sugar.

Here’s how to make papaya glycerite

you need:

• A glass jar with a lid
• 50 ml of glycerol
• about 1 tablespoon of chopped papaya
• preservative (Geogard 221)

Do like this:

• Put the pieces of chopped papaya in a glass jar and pour glycerol over it
• Let the glycerite prepare in the refrigerator for 1-2 hours. Do not let the glycerite stand for too long, as the papaya will form gel quickly
• Strain the papaya out of the glycerite and add 1% preservative (Geogard 221)
• Pack the glycerite in a small glass jar and label it
• Store the jar in the refrigerator.
• The shelf life of the product is 4-6 months. Personally, I always store glycerite as cool and dark as possible, always in the refrigerator.

Rice bran oil has special anti-aging effects

I use a lot of rice bran oil. It is a very mild, beautifully yellow and odourless oil. It is also a well-tolerated oil. Only very few people are allergic to it.

Rice bran oil is suitable for aging skin. It is especially rich in vitamins E and B, coenzyme Q10 and ferulic acid. Ferulic acid is an antioxidant that reduces skin wrinkles and protects the skin.

Shea butter protects the skin

I’d love to add some shea butter to creams in falls. It protects the skin from drying out. Although the skin is still moist and bright after the summer, it dries quickly in dry, heated indoor air. You can read more about Shea butter here.

For moisturizing Aloe Vera and Papaya cream you need

• 15 g of aloe Vera juice
• 54 gr of boiled or distilled water
• 15 gr of rice bran oil5 grams of shea butter
• 3 gr of papaya glycerite or plain glycerol
• 5 gr Olivem 1000 emulsifier
• 2 gr Preservative, Geogard 221 or similar
• 1 gr of essential oils

Do like this:

You need a double boiler to make the emulsion. The easiest way to prepare it is to use a flat pot into which water is poured. The water phase and the oil phase you put in the water bath, both in their heat-resistant containers, must be placed on the bottom of the flat boiler. You need two heat-resistant containers for the water phase and the oil phase. For mixing, you need mixing sticks (glass) or a spoon.

You also need a thermometer and an accurate scale, which you can use to measure very, very small quantities.

Prepare the emulsion cream like this

• Measure aloe vera juice and water into a container
• Measure rice bran oil, shea butter and emulsifier into another container.
• Heat up the mix until the emulsifier and shea butter melt. Both phases should be heated up more than 70 degrees Celsius in order to get the emulsification done.
• Now combine the phases by draining the oil into the water phase and mix gently
• Take the container out of the water bath and continue mixing gently until the cream cools down.
• Cool the mixture down to 40 degrees Now add the papaya glycerite and mix it into the cream
• Now you can add a preservative and essential oils to the emulsion cream
• Pack the product in a clean glass jar, label and store in a cool place, away from light
• The cream will last for about 4 months if you always use a dispenser (spatula or spoon)

How to use aloe vera papaya cream?

Aloe Vera and papaya nourishing cream is suitable for the whole face as a night cream and for day use. However, avoid the eye area. Apply a small amount of cream to the tip of your finger to use on the entire face, neck and chest area. Massage the cream into the skin in smooth, circular motions. You get the best result if you use the cream on moisturized skin.

This cream is a wonderfully rich and moisturizing cream. It is very suitable for dry and mature skin. For all of you who want aloe vera in your cream, this recipe is really worth trying.

Please tell us about your experience with this cream recipe. You can comment either in the comment section below or on the Helenatur Facebook page or Instagram @ helenatur10.

Artikkeli Creamy Papaya and Aloe Vera Lotion julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

I have prepared products myself following next two sea buckthorn oil recipes. I know roughly how they work on my own skin. However, I have not tested the cream for winter use in really frosty weather. Frosts are, for one reason or another, quite rare today.

All sea buckthorn oils are very valuable oils. Therefore, they should be used in the simplest possible products. Complex formulas with excipients can interfere with oil absorption. These products are simple to make. They also best bring out the great properties of sea buckthorn oil.

Serum from sea buckthorn oil

Oil serums are easy and quick to prepare by yourself. In the serum, the wonderful properties of sea buckthorn oil are at their best. Sea buckthorn oil should be used specifically for oil serums.

Sea buckthorn oil is rich in omega-7 fatty acids aka palmitoleic acid. Palmitoleic acid is a very rare fatty acid that occurs only very small amounts in some oils. The exception, however, is sea buckthorn oil. Sea buckthorn oil can contain up to 30% palmitoleic acid. Palmitoleic acid protects the skin from moisture loss. It is well absorbed into the surface layers of the skin, giving the skin a very smooth feel. Therefore, sea buckthorn oil is especially suitable for winter use, when the skin suffers from drying.

Safflower oil

I have chosen safflower oil as a base oil to this serum. Safflower oil really has a lot of skin-cherishing properties. Due to its high linoleic acid content, safflower oil is quickly absorbed into the skin. It does not leave a greasy feel on skin. Safflower oil is suitable for most skin types. It also does not clog skin pores.

You can also use your own herbal oils for oil serums. Instructions for making herbal oils can be found here. I myself used the dandelion oil I extracted for this oil serum in the summer. Dandelion is a really good herb to protect and moisturize the skin. Marigold oil or plantain oil are also very suitable to mix with sea buckthorn oil.

Jojoba oil

I like to use jojoba oil in serums. Jojoba oil has very small molecule size. It is able to penetrate very deep into the skin. Jojoba oil has been used in the pharmaceutical industry as a carrier to deliver drugs through the skin.

Sea buckthorn oil

Sea buckthorn oil is an integral part of this oil serum. Please check that your sea buckthorn oil is made from sea buckthorn berries without seeds. This makes the omega-7 fatty acid content high enough. You can read more about sea buckthorn oil here.

Moisturizing, caring oil serum from sea buckthorn oil

You need the following ingredients for sea buckthorn oil serum:

• 10 gr of safflower oil or the herbal oil of your own
• 2 gr of sea buckthorn oil
• 2 gr of jojoba oil
• 0,5 gr evening primrose oil
• 0,25 gr vitamin E
• 1 gr essential oils (optional)
• 20 ml pipette bottle

Do like this:

• Measure all ingredients in a small mixing bowl.
• Thoroughly mix the oils into a smooth mixture. If you wish, you can add essential oils to the product. The aroma of sea buckthorn oil is very pleasant, fresh and strong enough, so there is usually no need to use a fragrance supplement.
• Then pour the prepared oil serum into a sterilized (alcohol) pipette bottle.
• As safflower oil is very rich in easily oxidizable linoleic acid, always store the oil serum in the refrigerator.
• Sea buckthorn oil serum lasts only 3-4 months. Linoleic acid oils are so easily oxidized. However, the serum lasts longer than the dry winter season when stored in the refrigerator.

How do you use sea buckthorn oil serum?

Apply a couple of drops of sea buckthorn oil serum in the evening to cleansed, still slightly moist skin. Gently pat the serum on the skin. If you did not use essential oils, you can also apply the serum to the skin around the eyes. Alternatively, you can also mix a drop of oil serum with your night cream.

Sea buckthorn oil has a strong orange colour. The skin also turns slightly yellowish for a while. However, the colour fades pretty quickly and the skin turns a bright and clear.

Sun coloured, yellow outdoor cream

Sea buckthorn oil brings a beautiful yellow colour to this fluffy cream. The cream does not contain any fragrances. The fresh, orange-like scent of sea buckthorn is enough.

Sea buckthorn oil is a particularly protective oil. That’s why it’s suitable for outdoor creams. Palmitoleic acid and palmitic acid are absorbed into the outer layers of the skin, providing effective moisture protection. Sea buckthorn oil carotenoids are beneficial when the skin is exposed to UV rays. However, carotenoids are not the actual sunscreen.

This cream is waterless. Anhydrous creams do not freeze on the surface of the skin in the same way as emulsion lotions.

Shea Butter

I chose shea butter for this product because it is suitable for most skin types. Shea butter does not clog pores as easily as other face creams. You can read more about shea butter here

Rice bran oil

Rice bran oil is a mild, colourless and odourless oil that is suitable for almost everyone. You can read more about rice bran oil here. You can replace rice bran oil with sunflower oil, avocado oil or safflower oil.

Calendula oil

Calendula is a real miracle in skin care. It is a caring herb that also gives a great colour as well as a mild scent to cosmetic products. Calendula oil can be made by yourself. You can find instructions for making oil extracts here.

Arrowroot powder

If you wish, you can add a teaspoon of arrowroot powder to the cream in case the cream feels too greasy. You can replace the arrowroot powder with potato flour, rice starch or corn flour. Please bear in mind that do not add too much flour/starch in the cream. They are not absorbed into the skin. Excess use of them leaves nasty lumps on the skin which drop off after the cream has dried.

Winter cream for outdoor use; ingredients

For winter outdoor cream, you need the following ingredients

• 47 gr of shea butter
• 47 gr of ready-made calendula oil or rice bran oil or other highly absorbable oil
• 4 gr of sea buckthorn oil
• 2 gr vitamin E
• 3 gr of arrowroot powder

Do like this:

• Mix shea butter and oil in a steel or glass bowl.
• Place the bowl in the water bath until all of the shea butter has melted.
• Stir the cream until it cools below 40 degrees
• Add sea buckthorn oil and vitamin E and mix well
• Add arrowroot powder and mix well
• Keep stirring until the cream is solid
• Pack the cream in a clean, sterilized glass jar and label (ingredients and date)
• Put the cream in the fridge to harden for one day
• Anhydrous cream will be preserved at room temperature without any preservatives for about 3-4 months.

Use only a very small amount of sea buckthorn outdoor cream at a time. The cream is very full-bodied and requires some time to absorb properly. However, it does not clog the pores but is absorbed into the skin, forming a protective layer on the skin.

First apply the cream to your palms and then pat it evenly on the face and neck area. Allow the cream to absorb for about 30 minutes before going out.

Tip:

Vegetable butter easily clogs the drain. When washing the dishes you used to make the cream, wipe them first with paper towel to remove all grease before putting them in the dishwasher.

Did you try the recipes? Please tell me what you think!

Artikkeli Recipes for sea buckthorn oil; oli serum and outdoor cream julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Liquid or granular lecithin?

Lecithin has not been used much in home cosmetics. Now is the time to introduce lecithin. It is perfect for emulsifying rich creams for winter use. Lecithin allows you to prepare your creams without double-boiler water heating. Lecithin does not like heating. Its sensitive skin care ingredients are destroyed if you use too high temperature too long in preparing process. The soy lecithin I am using is GMO free.

Preparing of lecithin

Granular lecithin dissolves best in oil.  Lecithin dissolves also in water but it is easier to prepare an emulsion cream based on lecithin dissolved in oil. Dissolving process takes less time if granular lecithin is pre-grinded in mortar.

Dissolving lecithin in oil

Only a certain amount of lecithin can be dissolved in the oil. My rough estimate is 1 dl of oil can dissolve ½ tablespoon of lecithin. Exact amount depends on the oil you use. Straining is highly recommended after the dissolving process.

For straining, I recommend a strainer as dense as possible. Cotton gauze is also good. However, the oil will ruin the gauze so you cannot use it again. That’s why I prefer the strainer myself.

The strained oil containing lecithin is already a finished cosmetic product. You can use it, for example, on wet hair ends to protect them from drying out.

Choose the right oil for the lecithin cream

You can use almost any desired oil in your cream. I myself have used rice bran oil in creams containing lecithin. Various herbal oils, also called macerated oils, are also good. You can replace the oil partially or completely with herbal oil. Always dissolve lecithin in the total amount of oil. Choose the oil you prefer. There are some oils which I haven’t tried at all with lecithin like coconut oil. However, I do not particularly prefer coconut oil for skin care.

Here are some suggestions for suitable oils

• Sunflower oil; Suitable for the whole body and the whole family
• Rice bran oil; suitable for many skin types, especially good for removing signs of aging from the skin
• Moringa oil; a special oil that can be used as a hair oil to treat dry ends
• Calendula Oil; use in lecithin cream either wholly or as part of an oil mixture. Suitable for the treatment of irritated skin and children’s skin problems

What is the water phase?

Since we are now making a lotion, we also need some liquid for the lotion. Again, you can use your imagination and choose almost any water-based liquid suitable for creams.

Lecithin, like other emulsifiers, does not withstand salts and other minerals very well. For example, a seaweed poultice is very rich in minerals. Lecithin cream makes the seaweed poultice too thin. The ointment will probably thicken slightly in time but needs a pump bottle anyway.

Suitable liquids for lecithin cream

• boiled or distilled water; water is always the best option for simple lotions, sensitive skin, children, the elderly and people with allergies
• Infusion; you can replace some or all of the liquid with a herbal infusion such as raspberry leaf, chamomile, nettle, burr, marshmallow root etc.
• Aloe Vera juice; a true skin care ingredient
• Kombu (or other seaweed) infusion; please note the cream may become thinner.

Ingredients for lecithin cream

After you have selected the ingredients you want for your cream, you can start measuring them.

This cream does not necessarily need to be heated in a water boiler. However, if you want to minimize bacterial growth, you can heat the cream base in a double boiler for 30 minutes at 80 degrees Celsius. This will destroy most of the bacteria.

Use these ingredients

• Place 1 dl of oil (your choice) to a bowl

• Mix ½ tablespoon of lecithin in granules to the oil. Use an electric hand blender whisk.

• Mix the liquid so that the lecithin is completely dissolved. This may take some time. Let the mixture rest overnight.

Strain the liquid in order to get rid of all dissolved particles of lecithin

Add 1 dl of water and mix using blender

• The mixture becomes a mayonnaise-like, a very beautiful shiny cream.

• The cream will be preserved in a fridge at least 2-3- weeks. Lecithin cream does not like preservatives. For some reason, the structure of the cream is destroyed after adding drops of Geogard 221 -preservative.

How to use lecithin cream

Lecithin cream is a pretty greasy cream. However, thanks to lecithin, the oil is deeply absorbed into the skin, moisturizing and softening it. Therefore, it is advisable to take the time and carefully rub the lecithin cream into the skin. Just leaving the cream and applying it lightly will give you a very oily skin feel for a long time.

I do not recommend lecithin cream under makeup. If you apply the cream to the skin in the morning and immediately apply makeup, the cream will not be absorbed. If you apply lecithin cream in evening, you will have a very soft and moisturized skin in the morning that does not need much new moisture.

I’m really happy with moisturizing and skin softening lecithin cream.

Lecithin is a suitable emulsifier for oil-rich emulsions. There is a fifty/fifty oil and water in this recipe. You cannot prepare light emulsions when using lecithin. These heavier creams are perfect for winter and outdoor activities.

This cream leaves a greasy surface on the skin for a while. When the cream is completely absorbed, the skin feels soft and moisturized. Although I have added several times a day lecithin cream on my face my skin has not blocked up. No single acne has come on my skin while using this cream. The skin is calmed, moisturized and soft. My cream is made from a very simple and skin-friendly combination of rice bran oil + lecithin + water.

I use this cream as a night cream for the face and even for the whole body after a shower. Lecithin cream is also an excellent outdoor cream. A friend of mine, who is a passionate outdoor person and cyclist, often orders a can of lecithin cream from me.

Lecithin cream is not very stable

You can quite easily make lecithin, oil and water lotion without any chemicals. However, lecithin cream is not completely stable. The oil easily separates from the ointment but can be mixed in a couple of spins until smooth. By adding a thickener such as xanthan gum, the emulsion would be more stable. However, I wanted this cream to be a very simple product.

The good thing about home cosmetics is that you can compromise the composition of the cream without any problems. Home cosmetics creams and other products do not have to appeal to public or large customer base. If the cream requires mixing before use then what is the problem?  This simple, effective and beautiful cream is worth that little effort.

What is your favourite outdoor cream?

Artikkeli Softening and moisturizing homemade cream made from rice bran oil and lecithin julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

I’ve often wondered how I could prepare an ointment that does not make my skin feel unpleasantly oily. Of course, we can avoid the problem by choosing the best absorbent skin oil. However, we have to wait some time before the skin has absorbed enough oil. Rose oil-based cream does not have this problem. It is instantly absorbed and leaves the surface of the skin soft and dry, like velvet.

What are the ingredients of the whole-body Rose Oil cream?

Xanthan gum

The secret of my rose oil-based cream lies in the xanthan gum. Xanthan gum is a safe cosmetic ingredient. If you’ve ever read any negative stuff about xanthan gum, it is always related to food. Xanthan gum is used as a food additive in candy, confectionery, salad dressings and in many other foodstuffs.

What is xanthan gum?

Xanthan gum (E415), the INCI name for XANTHAN GUM, is made from sugar by bacteria. The product is dried and ground to a white powder. I don’t know the manufacturing process exactly, but it doesn’t sound a very dangerous ingredient in cosmetics. Xanthan gum gives the cream an extra texture and viscosity. Xanthan gum is used as a thickener along with an emulsifier.

What does xanthan gum do in the product?

Xanthan gum is not only a thickener but also a moisturizer. Because xanthan gum’s molecule size is big, it stays as a protective layer on the skin. Such a protective layer retains moisture in the skin. That’s why xanthan gum is an absolutely essential ingredient in this cream.

Xanthan gum also absorbs moisture itself. This is why the surface of the skin feels wonderfully peachy. Xanthan gum provides a good foundation for makeup. It gives the skin a matte finish on which is easy to apply directly makeup or even powder.

Xanthan gum gives the cream a gel-like structure.

Sorbitol

Sorbitol is a sugar alcohol such as glycerol. The purpose of Sorbitol in this product is to provide additional moisturizing features. Sorbitol also thickens creams.

Rose oil

Rose oil is a semi-finished product for cosmetics. I have prepared it using how-to make herbal oil instructions. I used rice bran oil and dried rose buds for extraction. The extraction was completed in about 4 weeks. If you don’t have rose oil right now, you can use some other herbal oil you’ve extracted.

You can read more about roses as cosmetic ingredients here.

Prickly pear oil

Opuntia oil is not necessary. Opuntia oil, or prickly pear oil, is pure luxury. I added this special oil to bring more skin caring fatty acids and antioxidants into the product. Opuntia oil is a very moisturizing oil that is said to be even more effective than argan oil on the skin.

I wanted to get a product that I could also use on my face. Opuntia oil gives this cream an extra absorbency and healing features.

Rose water

Rose water, aka hydrolate is a product produced by steam distillation. Hydrolates are floral waters that are formed as a by-product of the distillation of essential oils. Essential oils are fat soluble parts of the plant and hydrolates are water soluble parts.

Rose hydrolate should be purchased from a reputable retailer. A cheap product sold under the name Rose Water in Ethnic Stores is not genuine rose hydrolate but synthetically produced fake.

Rose hydrolate not only gives the cream a longer shelf life but also adds a lovely rose scent.

Water

I have used plain boiled tap water in this cream. You can choose between distilled or otherwise filtered water.

However, do not use tap water as such. I recommend you boil the water first as this will improve the shelf life of the cream.

emulsifier

I chose the Olivem 100 emulsifier for this product. It is a very stable and easy to use emulsifier. It is also an ECOCERT certified product. So, your cream will be on the same level than natural cosmetics.

Preservative

I only made this product for a week’s use and I stored it in a sterilized glass jar in the refrigerator. Therefore, I did not need any preservative. In case you want to use a preservative, I recommend Geograd 221 preservative. It is an ECOCERT and COSMOS certified preservative. Recommended dosage is 0.2-1% by volume of the product. If you make 100ml lotion you only need 0.2-1 ml of Geogard 221 preservative. For such a small amount, I recommend you to get a small douche. It has a scale for such a small amount of liquids.

Spruce sprout glycerite

I have made glycerite from spruce sprout. It became quite strong so this time I used only ½ teaspoon. It was the first time ever I made it.  It smells wonderfully pitchy and spring forest. I recommend you to try it. I’ve told about Spruce sprout here.

 We can make the cream also without glycerite. You can also use glycerol alone. It is also a sugar alcohol and a very moisturizing ingredient.

How to prepare a protective cream based on rose oil

You need these tools

• 1 clean, sterilized glass jar
• boiler/pot
• Metal bowl for water bath
• Milk frother to mix the emulsifier
• Thermometer
• Spatula (silicone)

You need these ingredients

• 50ml boiled water
• 25ml rose hydrolate
• 20ml rose oil
• 5ml opuntia oil
• 5 grams of Olivem 1000 emulsifiers (two teaspoons)
• A bit of sorbitol powder
• ½ teaspoon of xanthan gum
• A bit of beetroot powder to bring a rosy colour, optional
• ½-1 teaspoon of spruce sprout glycerite, optional
• Preservative (Geograd 221), optional

Do like this:

• Mix water, rose hydrolate, rose oil, opuntia oil and Olivem 1000 in a metal bowl.
• Lift the bowl into the water bath and let the water in the pot heat up gently
• Stir the mixture until Olivem is completely melted
• Remove the bowl from the water bath and mix the xanthan gum, sorbitol and beetroot powder (colour)
• Use the frother to mix thoroughly
• Let the cream stay in the water bath at 75-80 degrees Celsius for about 30 minutes. Check the temperature on the thermometer. This step destroys potentially harmful bacteria from the cream.
• After 30 minutes of heat treatment, lift the bowl out of the water bath and blend once more until smooth.
• At this point you can add spruce sprout glycerite and beetroot powder if you wish.
• If you want to add a preservative, let the cream cool down to 40 degrees and then add the preservative drops.
• Once finished, place the cream into a sterilized glass jar.
• Store in a refrigerator.
• The preservative-free cream will last for about 2 weeks, with the preservative for about 2-3 months.

I’m really satisfied with this cream. This cream moisturizes effectively the skin dried by summer. It also provides effective skin protection. The skin feels soft and peachy but at the same time moisturized.

I look forward your response, how this cream suits to your skin. I also want to know how did you like the cream’s composition and feel of your skin. Feedback is always welcome and I really look forward to it. So, please add your comments to the comment section. Thank You!

Artikkeli Protective moisturizing rose oil cream julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

I’m an oil freak. I think oils are a very essential part of cosmetics. You should carefully focus on choosing the right oil. There is own oil for every situation and every skin. This recipe has sunflower oil which is suitable for most skin types, a fact I already mentioned in my blog. Rice bran oil is very good for dry skin and aging skin as well. Where to get it – online stores are the best source.

The facial creams I make usually myself. I am so used prepare my own home cosmetics that buying a regular cream from the store would make me feel uncomfortable. However, I do buy more complex natural cosmetic products from reliable manufacturers and suppliers. But the day cream and basic cream are very simple in structure. I am minimalist in many respects. I want simple and only necessary ingredients containing products. We can always tune-up a simple, basic cream as we are now doing for this super-moisturizing cream.

Mix ratio for super moisturizing night cream

• 3 parts basic facial cream, your choice
• 1 part rice bran oil or cold-pressed sunflower oil
• 1 part glycerol
• Mix all ingredients together well and apply gently on your face and neck

This cream mixture can be well prepared for a week’s need and stored in a refrigerator. I would say it would last at room temperature at least a week.

Glycerite with fresh cucumbers

I am really excited about these glycerites. I have personally tried many versions, including probiotic glycerites. They will refresh quickly tired skin.  Especially in the winter there is a real need to get skin moisturized, when the surface layer of the skin begins to suffer dryness.

Everyone knows the very traditional cucumber mask; Thin cucumber slices are applied to the skin for half an hour. Very good and effective mask for the face. The cucumber is perceived as gentle and soothing in facial treatments. Now, however, we will tune up a little bit of our cucumber to even more moisturizing and it will become a glycerite.

Glycerites are usually made by herbs extraction. These glycerites are used for creams and salves. Highly effective glycerites can be made quickly out of fresh plats containing lots of water. There should be plenty of water in plants as glycerol should be diluted at least half of the volume. 10 ml of glycerol and 10 ml or more fluid is the right ratio. There is 98% water in cucumber, so it can be defined as liquid.

You can inspire yourself by creating fresher glycerites from juicy vegetables, fruits and berries. Naturally, when dealing with fruit and berries alpha-hydroxy acids should be remembered. They can be too powerful for the skin.  I myself do prefer only low- or no acid plants Like

• Avocado
• Banana
• papaya
• Boiled potato
• Boiled rice
• Coffee grounds

You do not necessarily need gelatin at all of these ingredients unless you add liquid to them. You can also make mixtures of different fruits and vegetables.

The only real challenge is how to keep moisturizing glycerite mask on the face. The paper disposable mask helps a lot. You can just irrigate the mask in the mixture and spread it on your face. If you don’t have a paper mask you should make the mass thicker. There are many options what to add. Here are three of them.

• Gelatin or gelatin, powder or sheets
• Agar-agar flakes or powder
• Glucomannan powder

I prefer gelatin because it contains collagen. Collagen is a skin building material and very good in the masks. Vegans for sure know that gelatin is made out of pig skin. Last two options are suitable for vegans. The gelatin can be prepared from the plates or powder according to the instructions in the package. I myself have added a bit more gelatin than what is mentioned in the instructions.

Option 1 Gelatin powder

You need

• 1 tbsp gelatin
• 2 tbsp cucumber juice
• A small piece of organic cucumber shells
• ½ tbsp glycerol

How to do

• Mix the gelatin and 2 tbsp cucumber juice and heat up in microwave 15 seconds
• Wash and mix a small piece of cucumber with a blender
• Measure 1 tablespoon of cucumber puree and ½ tbsp of glycerol in a container
• Mix the gelatin-cucumber mixture with glycerin and cucumber
• Give the mixture a moment to cool down in the refrigerator. The mixture must not become a jelly.
• Apply cucumber mask to the skin with brush. Avoid the sensitive area around the eyes
• Let it work for about 20 minutes and wash off with lukewarm water.

Option 2 Agar-agar powder

Agar-agar is seaweed and suitable for vegans. It is also used in marmalade so the product is very safe.

Follow previous instructions but replace gelatin with ¼-½ teaspoonful of agar-agar powder.  Agar-agar can be either powder or flakes. They are gelatinous in different ways. Check the packaging for the correct dosage if necessary.

Option 3 Glucomannan powder

Glucomannan is the same plant from which lovely Japanese Konyak mushrooms are produced. The powder is usually used for weight control because it swells in the stomach, causing a feeling of fullness. The Glucomanane is sold in the shops selling sports nutrients as well as in the health food stores. The packaging sizes are at least hundreds of grams, but the product is inexpensive.  The Japanese use the Glucomannan mainly Intestinal well-being. It works like a prebiotic helping the growth of intestinal flora. It also has other health effects. The substance is therefore very safe to use.

Please add the Glucomannan carefully because It swells slowly in the liquid, so pay attention. These quantities are very small in such a small portion. Teaspoon is far too big as a measure.

• You can add a very small quantity glumannane in the mask base first. This means just a gram or two. Wait for half an hour and check the thickness.
• If you have Glucomannan capsules, you can open one capsule and use the powder.
• Stir, wait for half an hour and apply the mixture with a paintbrush on your face.

These instructions are very simple and current. Worth of trying! Do you have your own tips for restoring winter dry skin?

Artikkeli Moisturizing Night Cream for winter skin and superhydrating glycerine mask julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Sunflower oil

Ingredients are simply and easy to get.  However, you have to pay special attention to the quality.  The oil must be absolutely fresh and extra virgin -quality which means it is cold pressed.  Organic oil is always better than oil manufactured in mass production factory. Sunflower oil suits to almost all skin types. Sunflower palm absorbs quickly into the skin.  It protects and moisturizes perfectly the skin.  You can use this cream to protect your children’s skin as well although I do not recommend it to infants under one year age.

Beeswax

Beeswax works in a cream as an emulsifier.  Keeping the quantity of beeswax small makes the cream easily absorbing.  When making creams you have to find a balance.  What is the suitable amount of beeswax in order to create balanced cream which is not too liquid but is still easily absorbing?  It is easy to try, just use a part of beeswax mentioned in recipe. When the cream is ready but not yet bottled, put small amount, just few drops, of cream into the fridge. After cooling, in case the result is not satisfactory, add some more beeswax to the cream and heat it up again to get wax melted. You can repeat this process several times until the cream is ready.

Where can I get beeswax?

You may get beeswax from some shops – I have ordered it from online shops.  Beeswax will last many years so you can order it a bit bigger quantity at once. Beeswax is for sale as grains and sheets, both are as good and have no influence to the result.  Just select the natural yellow, unprocessed beeswax.

In case the beeswax is not suitable

One can be allergic or oversensitive to beeswax, there are always some remains of pollens. Vegans do not use beeswax and it is not suitable to infants, only after one-year age it is safe to test its suitability. You can use carnauba wax, shea butter or cocoa butter instead of beeswax. Features of these waxes differ from beeswax. Cocoa butter is available in grocery store. It is foodstuff-quality so you can use the rest for cooking.  You can find Carnauba wax and shea butter in online shops selling materials for diy-cosmetics.

To make sunflower salve you need:

• 100 mills good quality sunflower oil
• 10 – 15 grams of beeswax
• small glass containers with cans

How to do

• Measure both beeswax and sunflower oil in metallic bowl.
• For double boiler, take a suitable sized pot and add some water in bottom. Place the bowl into the pot. Do not let water touch bottom of the bowl. The temperature of materials may not rice too high.
• Put the double boiler on stove and heat the water up. Turn down the heat immediately after the water starts to boil.
• Mix beeswax in oil until it is melted. Usually small quantities are melted before the water starts to boil.

Now the cream is ready for cans. Pour the cream in small glass 30 – 50 ml cans, cool the down and close.  Attach stickers with contents and preparation dates.

You can store creams in a fridge – I keep all oils and creams prepared by me in my fridge.

A tip: If you want more creamy cream, you can use a kitchen device to make foam. After foaming, you have to use spoon to fill glass cans, cream is no more liquid.  Foamed cream is easier to spread onto your skin.  Foamed cream will not last as long as pure cream. Remember to keep it always in the fridge.

Artikkeli Sunflower salve, easy-to make and effective julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.