Fragrances used in natural cosmetics are usually natural essential oils or their components. However, most cosmetics do not contain essential oils, but synthetic fragrances are used as scents. What are these fragrances and what do they consist of? When there is a mention “Parfum” on a cosmetic packaging, what does it mean in practice? This is a very complex topic and there is not much information available about synthetic fragrance mixtures used in cosmetics. However, let’s find out what it is and how harmful synthetic fragrances are.
Labelling fragrances in cosmetics on the INCI list
The INCI list of cosmetics is a rather scary and complicated matter for many consumers. However, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the INCI list because it contains so much information about all the cosmetic products.
The ingredients in the INCI list are listed in order of magnitude. The ingredient that is present in the product in the highest percentage is first. That is why you will often find the name Aqua (water) first.
Finally in the INCI list are ingredients which are present less than 1%. This group also includes fragrances. If a product contains less than 1 % of an ingredient (or several ingredients), it must be listed in the INCI list, but they can be listed any order. You will usually find all essential oils and their components in this group because essential oils are used in products applied to the face in amounts less than 1%. In body care products, the amounts can be bigger. Each essential oil and its components must be listed separately in the INCI list. In addition, the allergens contained in each essential oil must be added to the end of the INCI list. Most common of these are linalool and limonene, which are found in many essential oils.
The INCI labels for synthetic fragrances differ from the labels for natural essential oils. Synthetic fragrances consist of several different fragrance components. Sometimes there may be up to hundreds of fragrance components in one fragrance. Each component is present in such a negligible amount in the product that it has not been considered necessary to disclose the ingredients of the fragrance to consumers.
Therefore, the INCI label does not need to list synthetic fragrance components separately. It is sufficient if the INCI contains the word “Parfum”
Why are synthetic fragrances so popular?
There are significantly more synthetic fragrances in cosmetics than natural, plant-derived fragrances. There are many reasons for this.
- Synthetic fragrances are significantly cheaper than natural essential oils. A product that is chemically completely identical to any essential oil can be produced in a laboratory. For example, linalool and limonene are typical components of essential oils. They are very popular not only in cosmetics but also in cleaning agents and hand dishwashing detergents. Linalool and limonene are found, for example, in rose and lavender essential oils. The same components can be produced very cheaply in a laboratory. This gives an affordable dishwashing liquid a citrus scent without using a huge amount of expensive essential oils.
- Synthetic fragrances are stable and last longer in products. For example, expensive perfumes use a lot of synthetic ingredients precisely because of the durability and stability of the scent. Synthetic fragrances also last longer on the skin. This is easily noticeable in fabric softeners. Fabric softeners scented with synthetic fragrances leave a scent on the textile that lasts from wash to wash.
- Synthetic fragrances give fragrance laboratories unlimited opportunities to create new scents by combining different chemicals. Today, the world of cosmetic fragrances has changed enormously. Developing new scents is such an important part of branding a cosmetic product. Everyone smells the product first. If the odour is not pleasant, the product will remain in the store.
- When using synthetic fragrances, manufacturers do not have to be afraid of common allergens that are abundant in natural essential oils. For example, the very popular rose essential oil is highly allergenic. It cannot be used even at 1% in a product. A synthetic rose scent can be created in a laboratory that does not contain any of the allergens of a real rose. Many people may be comfortable with a synthetic scent, because natural scents will cause symptoms.
- Synthetic scents can sometimes be more durable alternatives to natural scents. Natural animal-derived scents can almost always be replaced with synthetic scents.
What components do synthetic scents contain?
Synthetic scents are a group of chemicals produced in a laboratory, the origins of which can be very different. Synthetic scents are often based on petrochemical products.
A large part of synthetic scents are secret ingredients whose composition has not been disclosed. So, you will never know what the word “Parfum” contains. Perfume manufacturers justify hiding ingredients because of trade secret reasons. They don’t want competitors to copy the perfume recipe.
Below are some of the more common synthetic fragrances ingredients in perfumes. Some synthetic fragrance components are relatively safe, but a fairly large number cause health problems.
Ethyl maltol
Ethyl maltol gives fragrances their sweet, candy-like scent. Almost all candy-like fragrances use ethyl maltol. It is a relatively new invention from 1992. After that, candy scents began to become more common in cosmetics.
Ethyl maltol is used in cosmetics in very small amounts and has been found to be quite safe. Ethyl maltol causes problems in large amounts, especially in electronic cigarettes. Ethyl maltol affects cell metabolism.
Coumarin
Coumarin is a solid, colourless substance with a sweet vanilla odour and a bitter taste. Coumarin is toxic. In Europe, health authorities have warned about cassia cinnamon, which contains a significant amount of coumarin. Coumarin is a hepatotoxic chemical. Coumarin has been found to be highly toxic and even fatal in mice and rats. Coumarin is better tolerated by the human metabolism, but it is still a problem for the human liver.
Ambroxide
Ambroxide has a woody and ambery scent. It is very common in perfumes. Ambroxide also occurs naturally in amber.
Ambroxide has been found to be safe if used only in small amounts. Synthetic ambroxide is a more sustainable alternative to amber.
Synthetic musks
Musk fragrances are animal-derived scents if they are natural. For this reason, synthetic musk is a very popular alternative. Synthetic musk lacks the feces aromas of natural musk, so its scent is clean and soft. Synthetic musk is a common root scent in perfumes.
Synthetic musk products also have their negative sides. They are not biodegradable. They accumulate easily in nature and in human fatty tissue. Besides, they are hormone disruptors and cause reproductive problems. They accumulate in breast milk and cause problems in vital defence systems.
Synthetic musk also cause allergies.
Aldehydes
Aldehydes are a very large group of chemicals that people are sensitive to. Synthetic fragrances very often contain different aldehydes.
The health effects of aldehydes have been studied extensively. Human exposure to aldehydes is a very big concern. Aldehydes can cause eye, skin and respiratory tract irritation. Other aldehydes, such as formaldehyde, are carcinogenic.
Humans are exposed to many different aldehydes on daily basis and the interaction of these substances can be unpredictable. Imagine that there are two or three different aldehydes in a product, which would be reasonably harmless. When combined, these aldehydes form compounds that can be seriously dangerous. No one knows exactly how different aldehydes interact. A lot of research has been done, but the subject is very broad and complex. More research and information on the behaviour of different aldehydes is needed.
Why should we be concerned about synthetic fragrances?
Secret ingredients are the problem with synthetic fragrances. Behind the word “Parfum” can be hidden a huge number of different chemicals, some of which are also harmful to health.
Such a procedure leaves the consumer in the dark. How could the consumer be sure of the safety of the product if not all the ingredients are listed?
It is common knowledge that components of uncertain safety are used in the production of synthetic fragrances. A large group of aldehydes have not yet been studied sufficiently yet. How we can be sure about their safety?
How do I avoid synthetic fragrances in cosmetics?
Even if you are not that familiar with the INCI list, you should remember the word “Parfum” or “Fragrance”. Both mean that the product probably contains fragrances of synthetic origin.
Choose unscented products. Some products have a label stating that they are unscented, but not all. It is worth asking the shop for help.
Choose natural cosmetics, preferably certified natural cosmetics. Certified natural cosmetics are not allowed to use synthetic ingredients. Most small artisan manufacturers also use only natural ingredients, even if they have not applied for the expensive natural cosmetics certificate.
Do you avoid synthetic fragrances? Tell us what fragrances you use instead of synthetic fragrances.