In springtime, the selection of wild herbs in the nature is amazing. The herbal cosmetics enthusiast has so many wonderful plants to choose from. When I choose herbs from nature, I always research the effect in skin care. This time I wanted to look for plants that may have a brightening and lightening effect on the skin tone. There are only a few naturally occurring substances that lighten skin tone. The most familiar and quite easy to get is arbutin. Arbutin is found often in many cosmetic products. Products containing arbutin are popular and their effectiveness is widely accepted. That is why I started out to find out where to get natural arbutin and how it is used in cosmetics. I also wanted examine more the safety of natural arbutin in skin care.
Arbutin in brief
Arbutin is a natural or synthetic substance used in cosmetics to lighten the skin. It is one of the most popular, permitted skins exfoliants. Arbutin works on the skin by reducing the production of tyrosinase. Tyrosinase is an enzyme in the skin that is needed in the synthesis of melanin. Melanin is a substance produced by the skin that is responsible for skin colour. For example, the tan on the skin is a phenomenon caused by melanin. The melanin in the skin works in cooperation with the sun’s UV rays. When melanin production is reduced while avoiding UV rays, the skin stays lighter. Also, age spots, freckles and other darker skin areas are caused by melanin and the sun’s UV rays.
The users, consumers of the cosmetic products are usually talking about arbutin. However, there are two different versions of arbutin; alpha-arbutin and beta-arbutin.
Alpha Arbutin
Alpha-arbutin is a synthetic substance that is produced in chemical plants using glucose and hydroquinone. It is produced by reacting hydroquinone and dextrin, a sugar, with glycosylating enzyme. Alpha-arbutin is used in commercial cosmetics. It has skin lightening properties. Alpha-arbutin is classified as a safe substance. The European Union’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has set strict limits for the use of alpha-arbutin. Alfa-arbutin may only be used at 2% in face creams and 0.5% in body creams. This indicates that alpha-arbutin is not completely safe for the skin.
Beta-arbutin
Beta-arbutin is natural arbutin. Beta-arbutin is found in some plants. Among natural Nordic plants, beta-arbutin is found most in the stems and leaves of the common bearberry (Arctostaphylos), where arbutin concentration is about 5%. Beta-arbutin is also found in the leaves of Bergenia. Bergenia is a garden plant with green leaves already very early in the spring. According to some studies, Bergenia would be the richest source of arbutin. up to 22% beta-arbutin concentrations have been found in it. The leaves and stems of the lingonberry also contain medicinal arbutin. Other plants containing arbutin include pear, marjoram and oregano.
Researchers have found that natural beta-arbutin is more effective than synthetic arbutin. This is because the arbutin extract obtained from natural sources also contain the tannins, sugars and flavonoids contained in the plant.
The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety of the European Union has set a limit value of 7% for beta-arbutin in cosmetic products. Natural beta-arbutin is therefore classified safer than synthetic alpha-arbutin, which has a limit of 0.5-2%.
Use of arbutin
Arbutin is used in many applications such as
- As a colour stabilizer in photography
- Urinary tract infections as an antibiotic (the remedy that heals the urinary tract is arbutin, specifically from common bearberry)
- In the prevention of cystitis
- As an inhibitor of melanin synthesis in cosmetics together with kojin acid
- In the treatment of skin cancers
- In the treatment of hyperpigmentation
Safety risks of arbutin
Both alpha-arbutin and beta-arbutin are in principle safe substances if they are used within limits and as instructed. The problem with both compounds is their contamination with hydroquinone. Alpha-arbutin is effectively synthesized in the process of hydroquinone. In the manufacturing process, hydroquinone may have remained in the final product.
Beta-arbutin, on the other hand, may sometimes partially break down into hydroquinone. How that happens is still unclear. However, researchers have stated that if this happens, the amount of hydroquinone in the product would be quite small.
When consumed internally, arbutin in plants always breaks down during metabolism process to hydroquinone. Arbutin may break down into hydroquinone already in the leaves of the plant. When this happens, the leaf turns brown. This can be seen in the leaves of Bergenia and pear.
Products containing arbutin should never be used regularly or for very long periods of time. This also applies to preparations containing arbutin taken internally, such as Bergenia tea. Arbutin is not a compound that everyone needs to try. If you do not have hyperpigmentation or the need to remove age spots from the skin, I think arbutin is a completely useless active ingredient for you.
However, arbutin is a relatively safe product for skin lightening if you need it. Most of the chemicals used for skin lightening are very harmful substances. Skin lightening creams sometimes contain substances such as the notorious corticosteroid compounds.
What is hydroquinone?
Hydroquinone is an aromatic chemical compound. It partially blocks the action of arbutin on the skin. It is also interesting that hydroquinone is also used for skin whitening like arbutin. Skin whitening agents containing hydroquinone are usually prescription products due to the high health risks. It is sometimes prescribed for people with severe hyperpigmentation. It should never be used on small cosmetic freckles and age spots.
The biggest problem with hydroquinone is its carcinogenic effect. Hydroquinone has been suspected of causing tumours in the thyroid, liver, and kidneys. Due to the risk of arbutin hydroquinone contamination, it has been proposed to use dihydroquercetin instead, which has the same effects as arbutin.
Hydroquinone is also a naturally occurring compound. It occurs in small amounts in propolis. Propolis is an antimicrobial beeswax produced by bees in their hives.
Use of beta-arbutin in cosmetics
Beta-arbutin, a natural arbutin, is well suited for use in cosmetics. Arbutin is water soluble. The easiest way to use arbutin on the skin is to make a decoction of, for example, common bearberry or Bergenia leaves and use it as a toner. Although you cannot know how much arbutin there is in your brew, the limit value for beta-arbutin is so high (7%) that a problem hardly arises.
Another, perhaps even easier and more natural way is to crush a Bergenia leaf and apply it immediately on your face or anywhere you want to remove age spots.
Arbutin extract
Beta-arbutin has historically been isolated from plants by brewing. I found an old instruction, which I’m sharing with you now.
- Chop and crush 2 decilitres of Bergenia or common bearberry leaves in a bowl
- Pour 3 decilitres boiling water over them
- Try to keep the liquid at close to 100 degrees Celsius, near boiling for 30 minutes
- Filter the liquid and add 3 decilitres of fresh, boiling water
- Keep the liquid almost boiling for about 30 minutes and strain the liquid
- Repeat the process once more
- Combine the strained liquids and filter them through gauze cloth or a coffee filter
This extract contains beta-arbutin, tannins, flavonoids and sugars. If you want, you can gently evaporate some of the liquid by boiling. Use this extract to make cosmetics. I recommend preparing arbutin extract only a small amount at a time. The danger is that arbutin breaks down into hydroquinone during storage. I really don’t know how long this extract will remain usable. I would use this extract as soon as possible. Arbutin extract should not be frozen either. Arbutin remains stable only as a white, crystalline powder.
You can include common bearberry or Bergenia decoction as a water phase in the emulsion cream. It goes well with toners and water-based serums, as long as you remember to use the products in due time, meaning quite soon.
Please remember to check the arbutin extract for possible sensitization. Do a skin test on an inconspicuous spot on the skin. Wait about 42 hours to see if there will be any reaction.
Have you tried arbutin in your cosmetic products? What herb did you use and how did the product affect your skin?