What are natural cosmetics and how do they differ from conventional cosmetics?

Natural cosmetics is a rather vague term. You can call almost any cosmetic product natural cosmetics if you want. Since there is no general definition for natural cosmetics, manufacturers have acquired various certificates for their products. Certificates guarantee the quality of a cosmetic product.

There are many different natural cosmetics certificates. Natural cosmetics certificates define which ingredients are allowed in the product and/or which are not allowed in it. Each certificate is unique. Different certificates approve different ingredients for natural cosmetics. Some of them are very broad while others are particularly precise in terms of ingredients, their quality and processing.

Some of the most well-known natural cosmetics certificates are COSMOS, ECOCERT and NaTrue.

Interpreting the INCI list is not easy

The INCI list is bound by cosmetics legislation. The ingredients of a cosmetic product must be listed in a certain form and in a certain order. If the product contains, for example, ordinary rose hydrolate, it cannot be mentioned in this form in the list of ingredients. All products have an international INCI name, which rose water, for example, has “Rosa Damascena Flower Water”. Because of this rule, the INCI list is very difficult to interpret. It is a mixture of chemistry, Latin and English. You must learn to remember the INCI names of the most important ingredients.

Are uncertified natural cosmetics safe?

Kosmetiikkatuote voi olla täysin luonnollinen, vaikka sillä ei olisikaan sertifikaattia. Monet pienet itsenäiset kosmetiikkavalmistajat eivät sertifioi tuotteitaan taloudellisista syistä. Sertifiointi maksaa paljon, eikä kustannusten kattaminen myynnillä ole aina mahdollista. Pienet valmistajat eivät myöskään halua sitoutua monimutkaiseen sertifiointiprosessiin. Heillä ei välttämättä ole siihen aikaa tai resursseja. Paras tapa selvittää tuotteen koostumus on ymmärtää inci-listan sisältö.

Beware of greenwashing

Jotkut valmistajat kutsuvat omia tuotteitaan luonnonkosmetiikaksi, vaikka tuote sisältää paljon synteettisiä ainesosia. Toisaalta perinteinen kosmetiikka on nyt tullut hyvin lähelle luonnonkosmetiikkaa. Tämä johtuu luonnonkosmetiikan suosiosta ja kuluttajien kasvavasta tietoisuudesta. Monissa perinteisissä kosmetiikkatuotteissa säilöntäaine saattaa olla ainoa ainesosa, jota ei hyväksytä luonnonkosmetiikassa.

Nykyään on melko vaikea vetää selkeää rajaa luonnonkosmetiikan ja perinteisen kosmetiikan välille. Joskus tuote, jonka sanotaan olevan luonnonkosmetiikkaa, voi olla kauempana luonnonkosmetiikasta kuin perinteinen kosmetiikka. Näin tapahtuu vain silloin, kun tuotetta ei ole sertifioitu.

Strange ingredients in natural cosmetics

Natural cosmetics contain many ingredients with strange-sounding names. “If you can’t pronounce the name of the ingredient, it’s not safe.” This is often given to us as a guideline when we are wondering about long ingredient lists. Fortunately, this statement is not true. Many hard-to-pronounce ingredients in cosmetics are approved as raw materials for natural cosmetics and are therefore very safe.

Ingredients in natural cosmetics must also usually have a natural origin. This of course depends on the certificate. At least COSMOS, NaTrue and ECOCERT certificates require that all ingredients must have a natural origin. For example, all PEG ingredients are made with a chemical process called ethoxylation. Natural cosmetics certificates usually do not accept PEG ingredients precisely because of the ethoxylation process.

I have written a separate article about PEG ingredients on the Helenatur blog. It is worth reading my article if you are interested in the bad guys in cosmetics.

Some strangely named ingredients in natural cosmetics

Natural cosmetics contain a huge number of different chemicals. It is impossible to list them all here. I have listed only a few ingredients here that I have used when making cosmetics myself. You may have used these same ingredients if you have made home cosmetics by yourself.

The following substances are natural emulsifiers

• Coco Glucoside – made from coconut oil and fruit sugars
• Glyceryl Oleate – made from glycerol and olive oil
• Polyglyceryl-4-oleate – a PEG-free emulsifier, made from glycerine and sunflower oil
• Cetearyl Alcohol – made from natural oils, e.g. coconut, palm oil and other oils. Can also be synthetic, in which case it is not approved for natural cosmetics
• Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate – made from glycerine and castor oil
• Glyceryl Stearate Citrate – a palm oil-free emulsifier made from various vegetable oils
• Cetearyl Olivate – a PEG-free emulsifier made from olive oil olive oil and cetearyl alcohol. Olivem 1000 contains this.
• Sorbitan olivate – made from sorbitol and olive oil. Olivem 1000 contains this.

The following ingredients are humectants

• Glycerol – a sugar alcohol that is made from natural fats and oils. Glycerol can sometimes also be of animal origin.
• Pentylene Glycol – a solvent with humectant properties. This can be either synthetic or of natural origin (sugar cane and corn)
• Sodium lactate – the sodium salt of lactic acid
• Sorbitol – a sugar alcohol like glycerol

The following ingredients are preservatives

• Dehydroetikkahappo – tuotettu kemiallisella prosessilla
• Benzyl alcohol – occurs naturally in many fruits and berries, is also produced synthetically. Causes skin irritation in some people
• Benzoic acid – synthetically produced from toluene
• Potassium sorbate – potassium salt of sorbic acid, occurs naturally in, for example, rowan berries, but all sorbic acid in the world is produced synthetically.
• Trietyylisitraatti – sitruunahappoesteri, valmistettu synteettisesti

Natural cosmetics do not come from nature

As you can see, many ingredients in natural cosmetics are manufactured in chemical factories. Natural cosmetics is always a product made by somebody. Natural cosmetics are never completely natural products. Natural cosmetics are a compromise between conventional and completely natural ingredients.

If you want to use the most natural products possible on your skin, then choose water-free cosmetics. Water-free products do not contain emulsifiers, thickeners or preservatives. Water-free products represent natural cosmetics at their purest.

As soon as water or other aqueous liquid is added to the product, the product needs at least a preservative. Preservatives are the most industrially made ingredients in cosmetics. However, they are essential in products containing water if you want the product to last a few days longer. If you leave out the preservative, the shelf life of the product is comparable to homemade mayonnaise. It needs a refrigerator to be preserved, and even then, the product may only last a few days.

The chemicals in natural cosmetics are safe

If you use certified natural cosmetics, you can be sure that the ingredients in the product are safe. Even if they are not directly from nature, they are still as natural and minimally processed as possible. There are thousands of cosmetic ingredients that are never and will never be approved for natural cosmetics. This makes natural cosmetics so much safer. Even if you don’t know how to interpret INCI lists, natural cosmetics certificates guarantee that the product you buy contains the safest possible ingredients.

Artikkeli Secrets of the INCI list of natural cosmetics: Certificates, ingredients and safety julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Nutrition and lifestyle – The basis for healthy skin

Many factors affect the condition of the skin. A varied diet, such as high-quality protein, fresh vegetables, berries and good fats, provides the skin with building blocks. Vitamins and antioxidants support skin renewal and protect it from external stress.

Stress management and regular exercise are equally important: excessive stress can appear on the skin as impurities and dryness, while exercise improves blood circulation and helps the skin to recover. Fresh air supports the skin’s natural function.

In addition to all these factors, thorough but gentle cleansing of the skin is the most important thing to remember in skin well-being.

Why cleanse your skin?

Your skin is exposed to dust, sweat, sebum and air pollutants every day – even when you’re not wearing makeup. Regular cleansing removes these pollutants and helps prevent skin problems such as clogged pores and pimples.

Your skin renews itself every day. New cells are constantly being produced, and old cells are supposed to be removed by themselves. Thorough cleansing helps your skin renew itself by removing dead, flaky skin cells from the surface of the skin. Intense exfoliation is not recommended for facial skin as it may sensitize the skin. Instead, a sufficiently effective daily cleansing is recommended to ensure optimal skin function.

Cleansing interval – How to choose the right rhythm

For most people, daily cleansing of the face with a gentle milky cleanser or foaming gel (for oily skin) is suitable. If the face gets oily easily, cleanse the face in the morning and evening with a cleanser. For most of us, simply rinsing the face with warm water in the morning is enough.

Dry and sensitive skin benefits from washing less often and using especially mild, moisturizing products, such as cleansing oil or unscented cream. If the skin tightens or flakes after washing, reduce the washing interval and switch to a milder product.

In uncertain situations, it is worth consulting a dermatologist – this way you will find the right routine for your skin.

Fact box: Identifying your skin type

• Oily skin: Shiny, easily clogged. Needs cleansing twice a day.

• Dry skin: Tightens and flakes. Wash less often, use moisturizing products.

• Combination skin: Forehead, nose and chin become oily, cheeks dry. Choose a balancing cleanser.

• Sensitive skin: Reacts easily. Choose fragrance-free and very mild products.

Skin barrier and microbiome

The outermost layer of the skin is covered by a thin bacterial layer – the microbiome. The purpose of the microbiome is to protect the skin from harmful bacteria. To function well, the skin’s microbiome needs an acidic environment, pH 4.5–5.5. If the skin’s pH rises, the microbiome suffers and the skin’s natural bacterial flora changes.

The effect of detergents on the skin barrier

The choice of detergent is of great importance for the well-being of the skin. Products that are too strong, especially strong surfactants, can remove the skin’s protective fats and disrupt the microbiome. This can cause the skin to dry out and become easily irritated.

Gentle cleansing keeps the skin’s moisture and microbiome vibrant. That’s why it’s important to choose a detergent that suits your skin type.

Surfactants – What to choose and what to avoid?

Surfactants are ingredients in detergents that remove dirt and grease. However, not all surfactants are equally gentle.

• Strong surfactants: Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS), Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES) – effectively remove grease but can dry and irritate the skin.

• Gentle surfactants: Coco Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate – effectively clean but preserve the skin’s protective layer.

Tips for choosing a detergent

• Choose detergents with gentle surfactants.
• Avoid products containing SLS, SLES or ammonium lauryl sulphate.
• Choose a detergent with a pH close to the skin’s own pH (around 4.5–5.5).
• Try products that are fragrance-free and as little irritating to the skin as possible.
• Natural cosmetics cleansing oils and milky cleansers are suitable for many.
• If your skin feels tight after washing, switch to a milder product and wash less often.

Can a mild detergent clean effectively?

Yes, it can – if you clean it carefully. Spend at least a minute cleaning your face when you are not wearing makeup. You may need several products and up to ten minutes to remove makeup.

If makeup is left on your skin, it cannot breathe and becomes clogged easily. That is why it is important to have a gentle but effective cleansing for every skin type.

If you wish, you can double cleanse; first oil cleanse and then cleanse with a mild surfactant. Double cleansing is especially suitable to remove makeup.

Make your own detergents

When you make your own detergents, you know exactly what’s in your product. You can choose the ingredients according to your skin type, adjust the pH value on suitable level, and avoid unnecessary additives such as fragrances and dyes.

Homemade products clean effectively but don’t dry out or irritate your skin. With a little practice, you can find the right combination just for you.

In my experience, making detergents is much more difficult than making creams. Several different surfactants are used in the production of a high-quality detergent. Mixing different surfactants is challenging and requires both experience and knowledge of the properties of surfactants.

Choosing surfactants

Obtaining surfactants can be challenging. Many surfactants are only available to companies and are not sold in smaller batches. I recommend starting your detergents by using just one surfactant. For example, Decyl Glucoside is quite easily available. Decyl Glucoside is a neutral, gentle surfactant.

It is important to remember that although Decyl Glucoside is a mild surfactant, it is still a strong concentrate with a pH of 10–11, which is the same as in dishwashing detergent. The high pH and strength of the concentrate can irritate the skin at higher concentrations, so a lower amount ensures the gentleness of the product. Therefore, it is recommended to use from 5 up to 10% Decyl Glucoside in the product.

Always measure the pH of the product you are making.

This is best done with standard pH strips. The recommended pH for detergent products is 4.5–5.5. You can lower the pH by using citric acid. If you do not like citric acid, lactic acid works just as well. I use citric acid myself, as it is inexpensive and very easy to obtain.

I have put an approximate amount of citric acid in my own recipes. Your product may be different depending on the ingredients you use. Therefore, carefully dose the pH regulator first and measure the pH again from time to time.

Here are some previously published and now updated recipes for you to try in Helenatur’s recipes.

• Very mild shampoo for children

Summary and encouragement to experiment

Natural skin care is based on simple but effective choices. When you know your skin type and understand the importance of the protective layer and the microbiome, you can choose the cleansing products that are right for you – and make them by yourself if you want. Feel free to try homemade cleansers and observe how your skin feels. With small changes, you may notice big differences in your skin’s well-being!

Have you made your own skin cleansers yet?

Artikkeli Natural skin cleansers – a guide to gentle skin cleansing julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Where do natural fragrances come from?

Most plants have a scent. Sometimes the scent is very mild and unnoticeable, sometimes it is strong and covers everything.

Plants use scents to communicate. Sweet scents attract insects to pollinate the plant. Pungent, minty scents, on the other hand, act as a defence mechanism for plants. Pungent scents repel pests and thus protect the plant. This property has also been exploited in the chemical industry. Pyrethrin is a natural scent isolated from chrysanthemum flowers, which acts as a fast-acting pest control agent. Unfortunately, pyrethrin is toxic to aquatic organisms, so its use is limited.

Plant scents are not only concentrated in flowers. Scents can also be found in leaves, stems, bark, resin, roots, fruits, fruit peels and seeds. Different plants have scents in different parts of the plant. For example, a rose flower has a strong scent, but rose leaves or berries have hardy any scent. Pine bark, resin, wood and needles have a scent, but pine flowers do not have a strong scent.

How do I get plant scents into my product?

Plant scent components are usually steam distilled from other plant material. The scented components of plants are usually fat-soluble. Steam distillation separates the fragrant components from the water-soluble components. This is how essential oils are made. The fat-soluble part created during distillation is called the essential oil, and the water-soluble part is called the hydrolate.

Distillation is the most efficient way to extract the fragrant components from plant material. Steam distillation produces two fragrant products: essential oil and hydrolate. Hydrolats are a great way to replace essential oils in water-based products.

However, there are other ways to isolate scents from plants. Oil extraction, or maceration, is the most popular. For some plants, alcohol extraction or water infusion are better options.

There are also fragrant plants that you can use in certain cosmetic products as is. By grinding dried seeds or peels, you can make the product smell great without adding any fragrance. Many waxes and vegetable oils smell great naturally. Their own scent is not worth covering up.

Let’s take a closer look at the handling of scented ingredients.

Natural scented waxes and butters

Many waxes and butters are naturally fragrant. If your product has a lot of scented ingredients, you don’t necessarily need essential oils or other, additional fragrances.

Candelilla wax smells so good. It has a fresh, fruity scent, just like some perfumes. Many people use candelilla wax precisely because of its wonderful scent. The downside of candelilla wax is that it tastes pungent. So you should not mix it with lip balm.

Cocoa butter smells and tastes exactly like chocolate. If your product contains a lot of cocoa butter, you don’t need other fragrances. It is also hard to cover the smell of cocoa. If you do not want a chocolate smell in your product, just use a very little of cocoa butter. The smell of cocoa is often associated with oranges and tangerines. Try using oil macerated with orange peels together with cocoa butter.

Cupuacu butter smells like tropical fruit and coconut. It is one of the best plant butters to bring fragrance to a product. You can use cupuacu butter in your product like shea butter.

Tucuma butter has a light, nutty, earthy scent. If you only use a little bit of tucuma butter in your product, it may not be enough to scent the entire product.

If you want a stronger earthy scent, add a little ucuuba butter to the product. The scent of ucuuba butter is controversial.

Ucuuba butter is very dark and aromatic. When used in small amounts, it gives a wonderful scent to the product. The dark appearance of ucuuba butter can be intimidating. There is no need to worry about it because when used in small amounts, the dark color does not come through in the product. I have used ucuuba butter in products a lot myself. I have somehow liked its earthy aroma.

Oil extracts or macerated oils

The oil acts as a solvent. With the help of oil, you can extract active ingredients from plants. At the same time, fragrant ingredients are also extracted because they are fat-soluble. Macerated oil contains the same fragrant ingredients as essential oils. However, the scent is much milder in maceration. You can use the macerated oil directly on your skin or make a water-free lotion by combining it with fragrant waxes and fragrant vegetable butter.

The best flowers for maceration are richly scented flowers such as dried roses and dried citrus peels. Other suitable fragrant plants are spicy herbs such as mint, rosemary, lavender and fennel seeds.

Do you like the smell of vanilla? Infuse a used vanilla bean in 65-degree (Celsius) oil for about an hour. You will get a wonderfully fragrant, all-natural vanilla oil.

The sky is the limit when macerating. Use your imagination. Find new scents and try extracting them into oil.

In case you have never macerated oils before, you can read my old article about oil extractions.

You can use any oil that suits your skin for maceration. Macerated oils will be preserved for about 4–6 months, depending on the oil.

Hydrolats

Hydrolats are created at the same time as essential oils are made. A true hydrolate is always made by distillation. Hydrolats contain the same fragrances as essential oils. They are just much milder.

Essential oils have specific limits for use on the skin. Instead, you can use hydrolats in any amount you want and apply them directly to the skin. Hydrolats are often used like a toner. They refresh the skin but have hardly any moisturizing effect.

Hydrolats are popular in cosmetics precisely because of their scent. I often use hydrolat as the only scent in the entire product. The scent of the product is then subdued and pleasant. When using hydrolats, you cannot add too much scent, as is often the case with essential oils. You can perfectly use just hydrolate as a water phase of the product.

Powders made from fragrant plants

Grinding plants for cosmetics was at one point my favourite hobby. I made powder from different seeds and used the powder in cosmetics for different purposes. Most cosmetic powders are unscented. They care for or cleanse the skin.

Dried, fragrant plant powders are also suitable for cosmetics. However, I would not put fragrant powders such as rose powder or orange-peel powder in products that are left on the skin at all, as they may cause allergies when used in large quantities.

A good way to use fragrant powders is in body scrubs. For example, powder made from dried orange peels or rose petals is very suitable for scenting many bath products.

In the summer, fragrant herbs such as meadowsweet, mint and birch leaves can be dried together with sea salt. Grind the dried plant parts together with salt when all plant parts are completely dried and use it in a foot bath, for example.

Alcohol extracts with natural scent

If you want to scent water-based products such as facial toners, forget all oils. Combining oils and water is not quite simple. In addition, essential oils are also not suitable for products containing only liquids unless you use cosmetic solvents in the product.

For water-based products, you can try alcohol extracts. Alcohol is not suitable for everyone’s skin. The best option for scenting facial toners is, of course, hydrolate. Use alcohol extracts only in limited cases when there is no other option.

Alcohol extracts are best suited for plants such as vanilla and fragrant roots and wood.

Fragrant ingredients are exciting to experiment with

The next time you make your own cosmetics, think about how you can get scents in your product without essential oils. Making cosmetics is a fun and exciting adventure where you can try out ideas that may seem impossible. Smell different plant parts and think about how you can isolate the scent from them for your own product.

Product scenting is one area that will surely interest you too. If you make the fragrances you are using in the product by yourself, you can be sure that the product is completely unique.

Artikkeli Fragrance ingredients in cosmetics julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Labelling fragrances in cosmetics on the INCI list

The INCI list of cosmetics is a rather scary and complicated matter for many consumers. However, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the INCI list because it contains so much information about all the cosmetic products.

The ingredients in the INCI list are listed in order of magnitude. The ingredient that is present in the product in the highest percentage is first. That is why you will often find the name Aqua (water) first.

Finally in the INCI list are ingredients which are present less than 1%. This group also includes fragrances. If a product contains less than 1 % of an ingredient (or several ingredients), it must be listed in the INCI list, but they can be listed any order. You will usually find all essential oils and their components in this group because essential oils are used in products applied to the face in amounts less than 1%. In body care products, the amounts can be bigger. Each essential oil and its components must be listed separately in the INCI list. In addition, the allergens contained in each essential oil must be added to the end of the INCI list. Most common of these are linalool and limonene, which are found in many essential oils.

The INCI labels for synthetic fragrances differ from the labels for natural essential oils. Synthetic fragrances consist of several different fragrance components. Sometimes there may be up to hundreds of fragrance components in one fragrance. Each component is present in such a negligible amount in the product that it has not been considered necessary to disclose the ingredients of the fragrance to consumers.

Therefore, the INCI label does not need to list synthetic fragrance components separately. It is sufficient if the INCI contains the word “Parfum”

Why are synthetic fragrances so popular?

There are significantly more synthetic fragrances in cosmetics than natural, plant-derived fragrances. There are many reasons for this.

1. Synthetic fragrances are significantly cheaper than natural essential oils. A product that is chemically completely identical to any essential oil can be produced in a laboratory. For example, linalool and limonene are typical components of essential oils. They are very popular not only in cosmetics but also in cleaning agents and hand dishwashing detergents. Linalool and limonene are found, for example, in rose and lavender essential oils. The same components can be produced very cheaply in a laboratory. This gives an affordable dishwashing liquid a citrus scent without using a huge amount of expensive essential oils.
2. Synthetic fragrances are stable and last longer in products. For example, expensive perfumes use a lot of synthetic ingredients precisely because of the durability and stability of the scent. Synthetic fragrances also last longer on the skin. This is easily noticeable in fabric softeners. Fabric softeners scented with synthetic fragrances leave a scent on the textile that lasts from wash to wash.
3. Synthetic fragrances give fragrance laboratories unlimited opportunities to create new scents by combining different chemicals. Today, the world of cosmetic fragrances has changed enormously. Developing new scents is such an important part of branding a cosmetic product. Everyone smells the product first. If the odour is not pleasant, the product will remain in the store.
4. When using synthetic fragrances, manufacturers do not have to be afraid of common allergens that are abundant in natural essential oils. For example, the very popular rose essential oil is highly allergenic. It cannot be used even at 1% in a product. A synthetic rose scent can be created in a laboratory that does not contain any of the allergens of a real rose. Many people may be comfortable with a synthetic scent, because natural scents will cause symptoms.
5. Synthetic scents can sometimes be more durable alternatives to natural scents. Natural animal-derived scents can almost always be replaced with synthetic scents.

What components do synthetic scents contain?

Synthetic scents are a group of chemicals produced in a laboratory, the origins of which can be very different. Synthetic scents are often based on petrochemical products.

A large part of synthetic scents are secret ingredients whose composition has not been disclosed. So, you will never know what the word “Parfum” contains. Perfume manufacturers justify hiding ingredients because of trade secret reasons. They don’t want competitors to copy the perfume recipe.

Below are some of the more common synthetic fragrances ingredients in perfumes. Some synthetic fragrance components are relatively safe, but a fairly large number cause health problems.

Ethyl maltol

Ethyl maltol gives fragrances their sweet, candy-like scent. Almost all candy-like fragrances use ethyl maltol. It is a relatively new invention from 1992. After that, candy scents began to become more common in cosmetics.

Ethyl maltol is used in cosmetics in very small amounts and has been found to be quite safe. Ethyl maltol causes problems in large amounts, especially in electronic cigarettes. Ethyl maltol affects cell metabolism.

Coumarin

Coumarin is a solid, colourless substance with a sweet vanilla odour and a bitter taste. Coumarin is toxic. In Europe, health authorities have warned about cassia cinnamon, which contains a significant amount of coumarin. Coumarin is a hepatotoxic chemical. Coumarin has been found to be highly toxic and even fatal in mice and rats. Coumarin is better tolerated by the human metabolism, but it is still a problem for the human liver.

Ambroxide

Ambroxide has a woody and ambery scent. It is very common in perfumes. Ambroxide also occurs naturally in amber.

Ambroxide has been found to be safe if used only in small amounts. Synthetic ambroxide is a more sustainable alternative to amber.

Synthetic musks

Musk fragrances are animal-derived scents if they are natural. For this reason, synthetic musk is a very popular alternative. Synthetic musk lacks the feces aromas of natural musk, so its scent is clean and soft. Synthetic musk is a common root scent in perfumes.

Synthetic musk products also have their negative sides. They are not biodegradable. They accumulate easily in nature and in human fatty tissue. Besides, they are hormone disruptors and cause reproductive problems. They accumulate in breast milk and cause problems in vital defence systems.

Synthetic musk also cause allergies.

Aldehydes

Aldehydes are a very large group of chemicals that people are sensitive to. Synthetic fragrances very often contain different aldehydes.

The health effects of aldehydes have been studied extensively. Human exposure to aldehydes is a very big concern. Aldehydes can cause eye, skin and respiratory tract irritation. Other aldehydes, such as formaldehyde, are carcinogenic.

Humans are exposed to many different aldehydes on daily basis and the interaction of these substances can be unpredictable. Imagine that there are two or three different aldehydes in a product, which would be reasonably harmless. When combined, these aldehydes form compounds that can be seriously dangerous. No one knows exactly how different aldehydes interact. A lot of research has been done, but the subject is very broad and complex. More research and information on the behaviour of different aldehydes is needed.

Why should we be concerned about synthetic fragrances?

Secret ingredients are the problem with synthetic fragrances. Behind the word “Parfum” can be hidden a huge number of different chemicals, some of which are also harmful to health.

Such a procedure leaves the consumer in the dark. How could the consumer be sure of the safety of the product if not all the ingredients are listed?

It is common knowledge that components of uncertain safety are used in the production of synthetic fragrances. A large group of aldehydes have not yet been studied sufficiently yet. How we can be sure about their safety?

How do I avoid synthetic fragrances in cosmetics?

Even if you are not that familiar with the INCI list, you should remember the word “Parfum” or “Fragrance”. Both mean that the product probably contains fragrances of synthetic origin.

Choose unscented products. Some products have a label stating that they are unscented, but not all. It is worth asking the shop for help.

Choose natural cosmetics, preferably certified natural cosmetics. Certified natural cosmetics are not allowed to use synthetic ingredients. Most small artisan manufacturers also use only natural ingredients, even if they have not applied for the expensive natural cosmetics certificate.

Do you avoid synthetic fragrances? Tell us what fragrances you use instead of synthetic fragrances.

Artikkeli Synthetic fragrances in cosmetics julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

This article discusses the practice and benefits of substituting ingredients in homemade cosmetics. It highlights the challenges of matching recipes to personal preferences and available supplies, stressing the importance of experimenting with alternative oils, emulsifiers, and fragrances. The text also addresses the complications posed by allergies, particularly nut allergies, and suggests organising ingredients into groups based on their function to simplify finding suitable substitutes within the same category.

You must be more specific when substituting ingredients in cosmetics. In this article, I will tell you which ingredients you can substitute, and which are essential for a successful result.

Substituting ingredients challenges you to experiment

It is rare that a cosmetic recipe perfectly matches your own preferences. If I use a ready-made recipe, I usually replace at least two or three ingredients.

I often want to try new oils or emulsifiers, or I have found a new essential oil fragrance blend. Trying out new ingredients is quite exciting. For me, it is one of the main reasons to make cosmetics.

A classic situation in my case is that I do not have the necessary ingredient in my cupboard. My cosmetic ingredient inventory is quite massive. There are a huge number of cosmetic ingredients. It is completely impossible to keep them all in stock. That is why it is good to learn how to replace ingredients with other similar products.

Allergies limit the choice of cosmetic ingredients quite a lot. If you have sensitive skin and allergies, you need to think carefully about which ingredients you allow in your product. For example, people with nut allergies cannot use oils pressed from nuts. Some people with nut allergies are also irritated by apricot kernel oil and peach kernel oil. Sometimes there are only very few permitted ingredients left. Such a situation is challenging for any cosmetics manufacturer.

Treat ingredients in groups

It makes it much easier to replace ingredients by dividing them into groups according to their intended use. When you deal with cosmetic ingredients in groups, it is easier to find a replacement product.

I divide the most typical cosmetic ingredients into four different groups. The basic rule is that when you replace ingredients, only replace them within the same group. There are exceptions to this rule, which I will tell you about in a moment.

Liquids

In a product that uses water-based ingredients, most of the product is usually water. You can replace some or all the water with hydrolate, aloe vera juice, or your favourite herbal infusion. Replacing liquid is easy and usually always successful. Especially in facial toners

However, problems can arise if you use liquids that contain a lot of salts. For example, coconut water can be used in facial toners, but I do not recommend it in emulsions due to its mineral content.

Hydrolats increase the acidity of the product, which is usually a good thing. However, you should measure the pH to make sure that the product is at the desired pH level.

Oils and Butters

Replacing oils is also quite convenient. It is rare for a product to fail technically due to the wrong choice of oil.

However, oils are not the same. There are significant differences between oils that you will notice when you use the product. If you want an oil that is well absorbed into the product, choose an oil with linoleic acid. If you want the cream you make to protect your skin from drying out, choose an oil with palmitic acid and palmitoleic acid. The best cream is created from a mixture of different oils.

If you want to replace an oil containing linoleic acid, choose one of the seed oils. All seed oils are rich in linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids. If you want to replace an oil containing palmitic acid, choose one of the vegetable oils.

Most oils contain a balanced amount of linoleic acid, oleic acid, and palmitic acid. By comparing the fatty acids contained in the oils, you will find many options for the cosmetics you are making.

A good way to choose a replacement oil is to use an oil from the same plant group. If you don’t have blueberry seed oil but you do find raspberry seed oil, use it. The same applies to plum, apricot and peach stone oils. They resemble each other because they are all rose seed oils.

Emulsifiers

Emulsifiers are needed when you make a product that contains both water and oil. An emulsifier binds water and oil into a smooth emulsion.

Replacing an emulsifier is challenging. In Finland, we don’t have a very comprehensive selection of emulsifiers on hand. Our circle of cosmetics enthusiasts is so small that it is not worth it for us to maintain such a large selection.

The most common emulsifier is Olivem 1000. It is a very popular and easy-to-use emulsifier. If you don’t have If you have no previous experience in the production of cosmetics, I recommend starting with the Olivem 1000 emulsifier to make emulsion creams.

Emulsifiers have very different properties and there are big differences in their handling and dosage. Therefore, it is not a good idea to change the emulsifier in a product unless you have experience with the behaviour of different emulsifiers.

What to do if Olivem 1000 is almost gone and is not quite enough to make a cream. You can add a little thickener to the emulsion to make the cream suitably solid.

Thickeners

Ingredients that are not directly emulsifiers but still increase the viscosity of the product are called thickeners. There are two different types of thickeners in natural home cosmetics.

• gums, which affect the water phase

• fatty alcohols, which affect the oil phase

When you want to replace a gum or fatty alcohol in a product, always look for a substitute from the same product group. Gums cannot be replaced with fatty alcohols and vice versa because they function differently in the product.

Many people are already familiar with xanthan gum. Xanthan gum is a very common and easy-to-use thickener for water-based products. It stabilizes the actual emulsifier and makes the emulsion feel less greasy. Xanthan gum has been refined into grades that are well suited for cosmetics.

There are different types of xanthan gum. Regular xanthan gum does not create an aesthetically beautiful result for, for example, facial toners. Shampoo may also remain uneven and cloudy. Therefore, I recommend purchasing only translucent xanthan gum for products that are intended to be transparent.

In emulsion creams, you can use whichever grade of xanthan gum you want.

There are many alternatives to xanthan gum. Examples of other gums

• Konjac gum
• Locust bean gum (carob powder)
• Guar gum (used especially in hair products)
• Acacia gum
• Sodium Alginate (a gum processed from seaweed)

Fatty alcohols are also quite familiar to many home cosmetics manufacturers. Familiar fatty alcohols are

• Cetearyl alcohol
• Stearyl alcohol
• Cetyl alcohol

Cetyl alcohol is a mixture of cetearyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is the mildest fatty alcohol of all. Fatty alcohols thicken products that contain oils and fats. They cannot be used in completely fat-free products.

You can use these fatty alcohols in parallel and replace them with a fatty alcohol from the same group if you wish. You can also replace part of the emulsifier with fatty alcohols in an emergency. The result may not be the same as an emulsion made with an emulsifier, but you will get a slightly higher viscosity in the product.

Moisturizing ingredients

There are many natural moisturizing ingredients. The most well-known moisturizing ingredients are

• Glycerol
• Allantoin
• Hyaluronic acid
• Pentylene glycol
• Sodium PCA
• Propanediol

It is possible that some essential moisturizing ingredients were left out of the list. There are so many of these and more are becoming available all the time.

Moisturizing ingredients work in the skin by storing moisture in the skin either from the skin itself, from the surrounding air, or both. Each moisturizing ingredient works slightly differently. If you want to replace one of the compounds listed above with glycerol, for example, pay special attention to the dosage. For example, allantoin can only be used at 0.2% and glycerol at up to 5%.

All moisturizing ingredients are water-soluble, so they can only be used in emulsions or toners.

Active ingredients

When replacing active ingredients, you should consider the intended use of the ingredient. If you want to add antioxidants to your product, you can choose from many different options. Antioxidants are also abundant in vegetable oils. For example, sea buckthorn oil is particularly high in carotenoids.

Skin soothing agents

• Oats extract and colloidal oatmeal
• Centella or Gotu Kola

Pore-tightening ingredients

• Tannins such as acorn extract and green tea extract
• All rose family (Rosaceae) plants and their extracts

Skin brightening ingredients

• Azelaic acid
• Niacinamide
• Vitamin C

Collagen boosters

• Vitamin C
• Seaweed extracts

When you want to replace an active ingredient, first check the recommended use and then correct your recipe with the correct amounts.

Fragrances

Essential oils are commonly used as fragrances in home made cosmetics. All essential oils can be replaced with another essential oil. You can also leave out essential oils if you wish and it will not affect the composition and stability of the product in any way.

When using essential oils, you need to pay special attention to the dosage. Essential oils cannot be used in very large quantities. In products designed for the face, essential oils can be up to 1%. In products intended for the eye area and lips, you can only use 0.5% essential oils.

Some essential oils are stronger and more allergenic than others. in others. For example, everyone’s favourite rose essential oil is very allergenic. You can’t add the same amount of rose essential oil as, for example, sweet orange essential oil. The same problem exists with lavender essential oil.

If you are not very familiar with essential oils, start carefully and only with the most common essential oils. The safest essential oils are citrus oils such as orange, lime and lemon.

Substituting ingredients is often challenging but quite interesting and fun

Be brave and try new ingredients. Only by experimenting will you learn to tweak ready-made recipes to your liking. When you start working on a completely new recipe and don’t have all the ingredients, first make just a small batch and see if the ingredient changes work. Write everything down, including mistakes. I also take pictures of all failed products.

Only by experimenting will you develop and learn new things about cosmetics manufacturing. There are no foolproof recipes for many situations. That’s why the courage to experiment and substitute ingredients will ultimately reward you handsomely.

Have fun making cosmetics!

Artikkeli Substituting ingredients in cosmetics julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Propylene glycol is produced in large quantities in chemical plants for the production of polymers. It is used at airports for de-icing and anti-icing of aircrafts. Propylene glycol is also known as an antifreeze for car radiators. Propylene glycol is also used in some oral and intravenous medications. Propylene glycol is such a common chemical that you inevitably encounter it every day without even realizing it. The uses of propylene glycol are such that you would never even think of it as a cosmetic ingredient. Why is such a chemical used in skin care? Read on to learn more about propylene glycol.

Properties of propylene glycol

Propylene glycol has many good properties, and because of that it is such a desirable and versatile chemical. Basically, propylene glycol is a solvent. It helps to dissolve the cosmetic ingredients in the liquid.

It is a viscous, colourless liquid that is almost odourless. However, it has a sweet, very mild taste. Propylene glycol mixes well with many types of liquids, including water. In the European Union, it has an official E-code, food additive number, E-1520. For cosmetics and pharmacology uses, the number is E-490. The vapourability of propylene glycol is weak. It is a humectant, meaning it attracts moisture from the surrounding air. In cosmetics, propylene glycol is used precisely to preserve moisture and to prevent, for example, make-up products from drying out. One of the most important properties of propylene glycol is its ability to remain liquid even in freezing conditions.

What is Propylene Glycol made from?

Propylene glycol is a typical petrochemical product. It has traditionally been produced by hydrating propylene oxide. Propylene oxide, on the other hand, is produced by oxidizing propylene with either ethylene benzene or isobutene.

Use of propylene glycol in cosmetics

Propylene glycol is characterized as a humectant. It is a viscous liquid with low toxicity. It is widely used in shampoos, moisturizers, cleansers, conditioners, deodorants, aftershaves, make-up products and perfumes.

The most important property of propylene glycol is its ability to attract moisture. That is why it is used in all moisturizing products. It is also a popular ingredient in creams that prevent the signs of aging because it is able to retain moisture even on thin skin.

Propylene glycol prevents water from evaporating from the skin. That’s why it’s a popular ingredient in dry skin care kits. It also acts as a skin softener.

Propylene glycol helps the other ingredients of the cosmetic product to penetrate the skin. Most cosmetic substances remain on the surface of the skin because they do not have the ability to penetrate deeper into the skin. Propylene glycol acts as a carrier in the product. It moves the active ingredients deeper into the skin.

Propylene glycol is recommended for acne treatment. It is a mild antimicrobial agent that is believed to soothe irritated skin. Propylene glycol is not greasy at all, so it is considered an effective and safe form of acne treatment.

Propylene glycol is used in cosmetics in preservative systems together with other chemicals.

Is propylene glycol a safe ingredient in cosmetics?

In general, propylene glycol is considered a safe chemical. However, that is not the whole truth. The biggest problem with propylene glycol is the allergic reactions it causes. Propylene glycol causes contact dermatitis in some people. Typical symptoms are redness, itching and small blisters on the skin. The American Contact Dermatis Society named propylene glycol the allergen of the year in 2018. The organization wanted to draw people’s attention to its significant share of allergy-causing factors. Most of the people sensitized to propylene glycol do not realize that they are allergic to this particular chemical.

People with eczema are easily sensitized to propylene glycol

Contact allergies are most typical in people with atopic skin or eczema. People whose skin has been damaged in some ways are also more susceptible to becoming allergic to propylene glycol. Also, people who work with machines and engines are more easily sensitized to propylene glycol. If you have ever been sensitized to this chemical, you should always avoid products containing it. Avoiding can be challenging, as propylene glycol is one of the most common of chemicals, which can be found in cosmetic products as well as in foodstuffs and medicines.

Sensitization to propylene glycol first appears on the skin of the face. After this, the rash easily spreads to other parts of the body. Contact dermatitis can also occur after consuming a product containing propylene glycol. For example, some beers and confectionery products contain propylene glycol as an additive. A very typical reaction caused by propylene glycol is dryness of the scalp, flaking and itching. Shampoos and conditioners often contain propylene glycol.

You should always check the ingredient list of the product you are using. Propylene glycol is often found there. Unfortunately, the industry is always coming up with new names for the same compound.

Here are some aliases for propylene glycol

• 1-2-dihydroxypropane
• 1,2-propanediol
• 2 Hydroxypropyl
• Methyl Glycol
• PPG,
• PPG-3
• PPG-7
• PPG-9
• PPG-12
• PPG-13
• PPG-15
• PPG-16
• PPG-17
• PPG-20
• PPG-26
• PPG-30
• PPG-33
• PPG-34
• PPG-51
• PPG-52
• PPG-69
• Propane 1,2-Diol
• Trimethyl Glycol

Propylene glycol is really hard to avoid

If you are once sensitized to propylene glycol, the only way to avoid symptoms is to avoid it. Sensitized people slowly start to realize how difficult it is. Propylene glycol is such a common chemical that there is simply no way escaping it. It is found in car radiators and heaters, anti-icing in airplanes, most common household cleaners, cosmetics, industrially made cakes and sweets. The situation is made even worse by the fact that propylene glycol has the ability to move environmental toxins deeper into the layers of the skin. When we consider all the harmful chemicals we encounter on a daily basis, this may be an even more dangerous phenomenon than the substance itself.

Today, propylene glycol, like other glycols, is used uncatiously, For example, as a moisturizing agent in cosmetics. Propylene glycol is very cheap and does not stick to the skin like glycerol. The many uses of propylene glycol makes it a very popular raw material in cosmetics. The use of glycols in cosmetics should be limited only to products for which it is difficult to find a safer alternative to glycols. There are many safe moisturizing agents suitable for cosmetics.

Propylene glycol is a petrochemical product

It is not allowed to use any chemicals that are related to petroleum or its derivates in Certified natural cosmetics. Propylene glycol is just such a product. However, nowadays, a plant-based propylene glycol has been produced, which is also permitted in natural cosmetics. This is a bit strange because plant origin does not make the substance any safer.

It is a very synthetic substance that would not exist at all without petroleum. Products made from petroleum, such as petroleum jelly, are unnatural products in skin care. There is nothing in petroleum that the skin needs. Although at first it seems that propylene glycol is good for the skin, what does it do in the long run? Where does this chemical go from the skin? It doesn’t evaporate, it’s absorbed.

What to replace propylene glycol?

Propylene glycol should be avoided whenever possible. In cosmetics, it is surprisingly difficult to avoid it’s use due to the versatility of propylene glycol.

Nowadays, certified natural cosmetics makers also use plant-based propylene glycol. This information was a surprise to me too. In case a chemical substance is made either from plants or petroleum, means both substances could be equally dangerous. However, plant-based propylene glycol is a more sustainable choice than a petroleum-based product.

Propylene glycol is often replaced with other glycols such as pentylene, butylene or caprylyl glycol. The users of pentylene glycol have been observed to sentisize to it. The same phenomenon will certainly be a problem with all solvents. Adding solvents to cosmetics is not necessarily safe. The most sensitive people will react to any new solvents in any case.

Natural plant oils can also penetrate the skin, although not as deeply as solvents. By using the genuinely natural ingredients we can achieve almost the same result without harmful side effects. The sterols and oleic acids contained in vegetable oils are now the subject of research in an attempt to find natural alternatives to solvents. Terpenes and polysaccharides found in plants have also been studied as penetration enhancers.

A good and recommended option is to make at least some of your own cosmetics. Homemade cosmetics are exactly as safe as you want them to be. Natural vegetable oils and genuine hydrolates can be used to make the best cosmetics that do not contain questionable chemicals.

If your skin is sensitized and you do not know how to make cosmetics yourself, switch to cosmetic oils only. For already sensitized skin, the best oil is as clear and filtered as possible.

Are you allergic to propylene glycol?

Artikkeli Cosmetics dirty dozen; Propylene glycol julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Read how to avoid the 5 most common mistakes when making homemade cosmetics.

1. Shelf life can become a challenge

In small-scale production, attention should be paid to shelf life in exactly the same way as in industrial production. If the emulsion cream or face lotion gets spoiled, the situation can even be dangerous. A cream rich in microbes can cause a serious skin infection. If the skin is broken, microbes can also enter the bloodstream. In homemade cosmetics, we ourselves are responsible for our product safety.

If you make an emulsion cream and store it at room temperature, you should always use a preservative. If you leave the preservative out of the cream, it should be stored in the refrigerator and used within a week. Emulsion cream containing water does not remain clean enough for more than a week.

When the cream starts to get spoiled, you will not be able to see or smell anything unusual about it. The cream looks still fine. the presence of bacteria can only be determined from a laboratory sample. We can’t constantly take laboratory samples of creams, so we have to act on the safe side. So, throw away all creams that are older than a week. By giving them up, you will save yourself from trouble.

The shelf life of creams can also be improved by sterilizing the (glass) jars in the oven or with strong alcohol (70%). You can also sterilize all dry ingredients in the oven (100 degrees, 30 min) before making the cream.

Never dispense the cream with your fingers, but use a spoon or spatula. Fingers always carry bacteria into the cream. The easiest way to avoid bacteria getting into the cream is to avoid touching the product with your bare hands.

I always keep all the creams I make myself in the fridge. In this way, the cream’s freshness is more certain.

Always add a label to the cream jars with the date of manufacture and the INCI list. A cream containing a preservative usually lasts for 3-6 months, and an emulsion cream without a preservative only for a week in the refrigerator. Afterwards, it’s impossible to remember if a cream contained a preservative or not and when it was made.

2.Homemade cosmetic product is not a copy of industrially made cosmetic product

You may have some great industrially made cosmetic product in mind when you start formulating your own cosmetic product at home. Actually, there is nothing wrong with this. Making copies of industrial creams can be really interesting and challenging. There is just one thing we must understand; A homemade copy of an industrial product is not really a homemade cosmetics product, although it is homemade and a cosmetics product. For example, you can also ask if a canned fish prepared at home, such as sardines, is homemade food. No, they are canned food, very delicious canned food, but they are not homemade food. Homemade food is usually considered as fresh and delicious, just prepared and still warm.

Prepare a lotion designed just for you

Industrial cosmetics, including natural cosmetics, are built from very different starting points than homemade cosmetics. The basic idea of homemade cosmetics is you and your unique, individual skin. Industrial cosmetics are built for mass markets. It’s built to suit anyone’s skin. Industrial cosmetics have many ingredients and properties that you can forget when making homemade cosmetics.

The appearance, skin feel, fragrance and packaging of industrial cosmetics are designed with sales and marketing in mind. Only a few unscented products are made, because unfortunately they don’t sell. The product must feel light on the skin and absorb quickly. When the customer tests the cream in the store, the cream should disappear from the skin in a few seconds. Otherwise, the purchase decision is negative. No one wants to buy a cream that doesn’t absorb into the skin immediately.

Creams that absorb well are often too light. When you make homemade cosmetics, you can decide yourself about the cream’s absorbency and skin-protecting effect. You just need to learn a little about the fatty acids in oils and how they behave on the skin. If you have some knowledge about the theory of natural ingredients in cosmetics, you can make for yourself incredibly effective products that are impossible to get in stores. By making your own cosmetics, you get a completely natural cream that serves your skin specifically.

Make a cream that does not contain ingredients that are not suitable for you

Industrially made cream often has too many ingredients. Today, however, there are many natural cosmetic products available with only a few ingredients. it is very important for me to be able to choose products suitable for my own skin. My eczema skin does not tolerate very many raw materials. It is often not possible to avoid allergenic ingredients in industrial products. You have to know how to choose, in a way, between two evils. You don’t have to that, if you can make the cream for yourself from the ingredients that suit to  your own skin.

If you wish, you can immediately leave all dyes and fragrances out of the product you are planning. They are the most sensitizing ingredients. You can also make products completely without sensitizing preservatives. Emulsion creams can also be prepared without preservatives if they are stored in the refrigerator and used within a week.

Many of the excipients in industrial cosmetics are completely useless. They are in the product only to facilitate the customer’s purchase decision. Such substances include, for example, chemicals that affect the structure of the product. They thicken or make the cream gel-like. On the skin, such substances are almost always useless.  You don’t need additional, useless substances in homemade cosmetics. It is enough that you have collected substances that affect the well-being of your skin, such as oils and herbal extracts, and you combine them into one product with as little effort as possible.

3. Inappropriate storage containers

Storage containers are important in homemade cosmetics, even if the product is not intended to be sold. Cream jars don’t necessarily have to be very expensive and fancy. It is enough that they are intact and the material is glass. Not all plastic jars are suitable, especially if you want to use essential oils and most of us do. Essential oils dissolve plastics. The ingredients of plastics are transferred to the product and through it to your skin. This is not the intention at all. So always preferably use glass jars. They can be recycled and used again and again.

4. Too strong active ingredients

When you want to make homemade cosmetics, you have to take care of product safety yourself. As I stated earlier, responsibility for product shelf life is a very important matter. Another product liability issue is the chemicals and other active substances in the product. In general, cosmetic products mainly contain water and oils. These are the only substances with which there are no major problems. Oil and water do not cause skin irritation unless you happen to be allergic to some oil.

In the case of active ingredients, you must definitely follow the dosing instructions of the seller/manufacturer of the raw material. If there are no instructions available, always start experimenting with a new active substance in very small amounts. By small amounts I mean, for example, a tenth of a gram or a drop. The dosage can be increased if necessary. With many plant chemicals, it can take a long time before any irritation starts to appear on the skin.

Active ingredients in cosmetics that can cause problems

• Essential oils; when overdosed, they are a health risk. Read my post about essential oils.

• Acids; acids can be found, for example, in fruits and berries and vinegar. Lactic acid is also sold in online stores that sell raw materials for homemade cosmetics. Ascorbic acid and salicylic acid are also strong acids that are widely used in homemade cosmetics. Acids are solvents and corrode the skin if used excessively. You should be especially careful with all acids.

• Plant chemicals, alcohol extracts from herbs, strong oil extracts, pitches, resins, etc. can contain large amounts of substances that strongly affect the skin. Especially if you have prepared the plant extracts yourself, their strength can surprise you. Phytochemicals cause allergies easily. Therefore, all plant extracts should be dosed drop by drop. Get yourself pipettes for dosing. You can’t really measure drops otherwise.

• Baking soda is a very commonly used active ingredient in homemade cosmetics. It is considered safe, because it is food. However, baking soda is quite alkaline and therefore not suitable for the skin. Especially if baking soda is used in deodorants, it starts to sting the skin sooner or later.

• Salts are here to stay both in homemade cosmetics and natural cosmetics. They are very useful if you know how to use them correctly and in the right places. Salt is also often used in deodorants and scrubs. The problems with salt are somewhat the same as with baking soda. Salt is also alkaline and therefore easily makes the skin sting. Salt is much better for oily skin than for thin and dry skin. Salt is also a very troublesome ingredient in the most common emulsions.

How to accurately measure the ingredients of homemade cosmetics

When you start making homemade cosmetics, you should immediately invest in a good scale and other measuring tools. In cosmetics, substance ratios are sometimes really important. Problems easily arise with ingredients that are only needed in very small quantities. A preservative is a good example of such an ingredient. If a preservative is required for 0.5% of the volume of the entire cream batch, measuring it is really challenging. Preservatives have usage limits that must be followed for safety reasons. That’s why you have to forget about “pinches” and roughly dosing. Therefore, good measuring spoons and a scale that also measures tenths of a gram are necessary.

Pipettes are also very handy for measuring small quantities. There’s no point in trusting spoons. They come in many sizes.

5. When you start to make your own cosmetics, how do you make sure that the recipe is reliable

There are a lot of recipes for homemade cosmetics available online.  You may find thousands of different recipes for creams and lotions and deodorants. However, many recipes are quite rough. The dosing of the ingredients can cause a lot of trouble. I myself have paid attention especially to the quality of the ingredients.

In many instructions, the ingredients are chosen without a clue about the subject. The needs of the skin have not been considered at all. Especially in DIY hair care products, coconut oil is commonly used. However, coconut oil is not a suitable oil for this purpose. Coconut oil cannot be easily removed from the hair. Applying other oils liberally to the hair requires a really effective shampoo so that the hair is clean again. Effective shampoos do not separate fats. Along with coconut oil, they also remove the hair’s own sebum.

I have created this blog specifically to help you choose the right ingredients and methods when making homemade cosmetics. When you start making homemade cosmetics, you take a big leap towards an ecological lifestyle. It is very unfortunate if people give up making homemade cosmetics just because the online instructions are so wrong and they often recommend unsuitable ingredients.

What problems have you had in making cosmetics? Comment your own experiences below this post!

Artikkeli What are the 5 most common mistakes you can make, when starting to make homemade cosmetics julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Macrobiotic is a concept that has been bypassed by other, more modern trends. It shouldn’t. Macro is a Greek word and means great and large. Bios means life. So Makrobios is the Great Life in English.  Macrobiotic way of thinking values ​​everything life brings to us. It teaches us positive thinking and gives us joy.

Japan is the home of macrobiotic thinking. It means a whole way of life; a macrobiotic way to live our lives. I got to know macrobiotic myself over 30 years ago. I would now like to introduce you this traditional Japanese philosophy of life, and especially macrobiotic skin care. Interested in hearing more about this topic?

Macrobiotic skincare is harmony

Macrobiotic is a harmonious life together with nature. A human is part of nature and therefore we should live under conditions of nature.

Macrobiotic do include also a healthy, non-toxic diet. Different cooking methods are a very important part of the diet. In macrobiotic, ​​local food is appreciated because it is good to live in symbiosis with the earth. Vegans and mixed eaters are not separated in the macrobiotic diet. In macrobiotic, all humans have their own individual diets. Macrobiotic diet is mainly gentle and vegetarian and it is very important in macrobiotic, but let’s not talk about it anymore.

Macrobiotic is a philosophy of life that provides guidance for all areas of life.

You can raise your children according to the principles of macrobiotics. You can meet your friends and parents following the ideas of macrobiotic way of life. Macrobiotic is a holistic way of thinking, but not a religion at all.

The macrobiotic way of taking care of our self and our health, hygiene and other well-being suits so well to present day. That is why macrobiotic occurred to my mind and I decided to write about it. It’s time to take a closer look at macrobiotic skincare and see what it has to offer to us.

Macrobiotic skincare and cosmetics

In macrobiotic, when the harmony has been achieved, skin care is not even needed. This may sound amazing. Healthy skin does not need any skin care products.

Totally healthy skin is achieved by living in harmony with nature and the surrounding environment. Unfortunately, only few of us today have the opportunity to live like this. That’s why we need cosmetics to moisturize and protect our skin. Nowadays, our nutrition is far from natural and optimal. Insufficient nutrition is then immediately visible on our skin.

Less is more

It is best to treat our skin only when needed. According to the rules of macrobiotic way, the skin should be treated as little as possible.

• A drop of oil is enough but use good, organic quality oil that is locally produced – if possible
• Light cleaning is enough, but make sure that the water you use is as natural as possible. In summer you can take advantage of clean streams and lakes. If you have genuine spring water at your disposal, it’s better.
• To protect your skin, it is best to avoid strong sun exposure rather than constantly use sunscreen.
• According to the rules of macrobiotic, always choose the most natural option.
• Replaced sunscreen by clothing and natural shade
• Choose a natural fibre face towel instead of an artificial fibre
• Use a guasha roller to refresh the skin of your face rather than face masks
• Use oils produced in your area / country for skin care – if possible

No compromises in macrobiotic skincare

Macrobiotic means living in harmony with nature. If we want to live macrobiotically, everything we touch and use should be as natural and pure as possible. Cosmetics made following the standards of natural cosmetics are, of course, very pure. They are free of plastic and harmful chemicals. However, there are some trade-offs made in natural cosmetics that are not present in macrobiotic cosmetics. Preservatives, emulsifiers and other chemicals that affect the appearance of the product are just those trade-offs. They are factory-made, synthetic chemicals that are no longer natural.

Organic ingredients

Organic ingredients and wild forest products are used in macrobiotic skincare. Organic raw materials are sometimes unfortunately hard to find. Organic production does not cover everything.

What ingredients are used to make macrobiotic products

When you start making macrobiotic cosmetics, you should start with very simple formulas. In Japanese style, macrobiotic cosmetics is very simple. All unneeded ingredients are removed from the product. Only pure, natural raw materials are left. In macrobiotic cosmetics, the freshness and quality of the raw materials are the most important values.

At its best, macrobiotic cosmetics are made up of ingredients that have grown near you. The ingredients in macrobiotic cosmetics are locally produced, traditionally part of the environment where you live. That is what symbiosis with nature means.

A good example of a macrobiotic cosmetic raw material is oats

Oats are a very traditional ingredient and it  is particularly good for skin care. Other good macrobiotic cosmetic ingredients are

• flax seeds
• apple
• rose hips and roses
• all wild herbs
• lake water, river water, spring water
• and many other raw materials

It is up to you to decide which plants are suitable for your macrobiotic product.

In macrobiotic cosmetics, the origin of the raw material is very relevant information

Macro-biology focuses on local production. We must therefore pay particular attention to the origin of the raw materials. Make sure that all the ingredients in your product are locally produced. This is the original idea of ​​macrobiotics. Online shops are flooded with macrobiotic cosmetics made in Japan from Japanese ingredients. Don’t buy such products unless you live in Japan. Therefore, always choose domestic raw materials whenever you make your own products.

The formula of a macrobiotic cosmetic product is very simple

You don’t need expensive equipment and tools to make macrobiotic cosmetics. It is enough that you have access to fresh, domestic ingredients.

Oat oil

Oat oil itself is a macrobiotic cosmetic product. You can use it as it is for skin care.

Hemp oil

Hemp oil is one of the best cosmetic oils. Hemp is a very ecological plant with a negative carbon footprint. You can read more about hemp oil in skin care here.

Beeswax and honey

A natural way to make creams and ointments is to melt beeswax to the oil. If you use domestic camelina oil, the product is very macrobiotic. Camelina oil is also good for maceration or oil extraction. Extracting gentle natural herbs into camelina oil gives you a wonderful macrobiotic salve for skin care.

Honey provides moisture to the skin. It works well as a facial mask as such. Honey can also be mixed with herbal oils to give extra power to the mask.

Macrobiotic skin care is current trend right now

Right now, we need to focus on supporting domestic and local production. Local production is an ethical and ecological choice. I will tell you more about macrobiotic cosmetics in the future. It has been one of the most inspiring philosophies for me for decades. Macrobiotics fits really well at this time. It teaches us how to appreciate and be grateful for what we have around us. We do not necessarily need exotic ingredients for our skin care products. Often, vegetable oils produced nearby perform even better.

Are you familiar with macrobiotic skin care?

Artikkeli Macrobiotic Skincare julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

What is the skin barrier?

The skin is the largest human organ, which main purpose is to protect the rest of the body from the environment. The skin consists of three layers;

• Epidermis
• Dermis
• Subcutaneous layer

The structure of the epidermis consists of four main layers. The outermost layer of the epidermis is called stratum corneum. Stratum corneum is mainly responsible for the permeability of the skin or the fact that any substances that do not belong to the body cannot penetrate the skin. Stratum corneum is practically waterproof. Most chemicals are not absorbed through it, even though many people claim otherwise.

Your skin outermost layer is made up of 15-20 layers of flattened, dead skin cells. These dead skin cells are very necessary for the functioning of the skin and the whole body. They protect our skin from infections, dryness and mechanical stress.

Corneocytes, the cells of the stratum corneum, contain a dense network of creatine. It is a protein that helps keep the skin hydrated while preventing water from evaporating. Corneocytes are surrounded by a dense cell deposit as an insulator and in addition a lipid layer containing ceramides and fatty acids.

The cells of the stratum corneum can absorb water, which helps maintain the skin’s moisture balance. Using cosmetic products is the best way to influence the health and functions of the skin.

How to strength skin barrier?

The skin barrier, the stratum corneum, consists of 15% water. When the water content starts to drop below 10%, the skin starts to suffer from dryness. Adequate hydration is very important in strengthening the skin barrier.

Effective moisturizing of the skin takes place in three different stages.

1. Occlusive substances form a barrier preventing evaporation on the surface of the skin and lock moisture into the skin
2. Emollients are oils and vegetable butters that the skin uses to soften and smooth the skin’s surface
3. Humectants absorb moisture from the skin, the air, or both

Occlusive agents

Natural occlusive substances are the oils and waxes you are already familiar with. In particular, waxes are a very important component in facial creams for winter use. When the air is very dry, a lot of water evaporates. Waxes protect and soothe the skin and effectively prevent water from evaporating from the skin. It is important to choose a natural wax as the occlusive agent. Vaseline is effective in preventing water from evaporating from the skin, but it stopping skin from breathing. Vaseline forms too dense layer on the skin. That’s why natural waxes are the best for skin care. Examples of natural waxes are

• Beeswax
• Candelilla wax
• Berry wax

An occlusive effect can also be created with oils. Standard cosmetic oils are ideal and gentle on the skin. If you don’t need maximum protection against dryness, vegetable oils alone work well as moisture-retaining agents on the skin.

Examples of good occlusive oils

• Almond oil
• Avocado oil

Skin softening agents

Stratum corneum needs to be soft and flexible to work well. Softness and flexibility also affect the skin’s youthful appearance. In soft and flexible skin, wrinkles are not so clearly visible. It has been studied that especially emulsion creams soften the skin. They combine water and oil, which together with an emulsifier are able to be absorbed better into the skin.

The best softeners for oily skin are jojoba oil and squalane. Jojoba oil is not actually an oil but a liquid wax. Its structure resembles the structure of the skin’s own lipids. That’s why jojoba oil feels so soft on the skin.

Squalane is the hydrogenated form of squalene that occurs naturally in the skin. It is ideal for all skin types to soften and smooth the skin. Olive squalane is a completely plant-based product that is very easy to add to products.

Skin humectant agents

In this section, I will tell you what skin humectant agents are and how they work in the skin. Skin humectant agents attract moisture from the lowest layers of the skin and bind it to the stratum corneum. Humectants make the stratum corneum act like an absorbent sponge.

There are many humectant agents that are good for the skin. The best known and loved the extract is of course glycerol. Glycerol is a sugar alcohol and a water-soluble substance that can only be used in emulsions and completely oil-free products such as face lotions. Glycerol cannot be added to waterless creams. If you want to make and use only water-free creams, you can add glycerol to your toner or water-based serum. This way you can get your skin moisturized more effectively.

Another popular skin humectant is sorbitol. Sorbitol is also a sugar alcohol and a water-soluble substance. You can use sorbitol like glycerol in emulsions and oil-free products. Since sorbitol does not dissolve in oil, it should not be used in anhydrous creams.

The most challenging and valuable humectant agent is hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is a water-soluble substance. It is an extremely effective moisturizer. It can absorb up to 1000 times its own weight in water.

Hyaluronic acid can be purchased in powder form and in different molecular sizes. The smaller the molecular size, the deeper the hyaluronic acid works in the skin. Hyaluronic acid of high molecular weight remains on the surface of the skin because it cannot be absorbed even into the stratum corneum. Very low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is difficult to obtain. Working with hyaluronic acid is quite challenging for a beginner.

There is also oil-soluble hyaluronic acid extracted from castor oil. It can also be used in anhydrous products. The skin must of course be properly moisturized first, as hyaluronic acid can make dry skin even drier.

Combine a super-caring moisturizer for yourself

Strengthening the skin barrier is one of the most important things in skin care. A healthy and strong skin barrier means healthier and stronger skin. The skin does not dry out so quickly and remains youthful much easier.

When choosing ingredients for your skin care product, remember that by combining different ingredients you get a better end result. Choose several oils and two different humectant agents for your product. Two works better than one in this case. The outermost skin barrier is so strong that you’ll need many gentle tricks to penetrate it.

Artikkeli How to repair the skin barrier julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Natural vitamin D

We all need sunlight. Especially after winter, the warm sunshine is a really welcome guest. After winter, our skin is not used to the sun and it burns very easily. The best way to enhance the skin’s ability to combat the harmful effects of the sun’s UV rays is to ensure an adequate intake of vitamin D. In winter you should take vitamin D as a supplement, but in summertime the sun takes care of it. Move around outside in changing shade so you do not get too much sunrays at once, but still enough for the body’s own vitamin D production.

You don’t need to protect yourself from the sun at all if you don’t stay in direct sunlight for long periods of time. You do not need special protection for sunbathing for less than 10 minutes period. Excessive protection from the sun prevents the natural formation of vitamin D in our body. Natural vitamin D formed through the skin is different from vitamin D taken from a jar. After winter, we need to get vitamin D from direct sunlight in particular abundance.

Protect yourself and children from excessive sun with clothing

If your skin is very sensitive to the sun, you can protect yourself with light but covering clothing. Children burn easily under the sun. It is worth protecting their skin, because burnt skin exposes them to skin cancer when they are adults.

How to get natural UV protection for children

Children’s outdoor playground should be set up in a canopy of trees. If that is not possible, the playground can be protected with an umbrella or canopy.

Children’s clothing should be as protective as possible. Babies in particular should be dressed in light but covering clothes. Children’s skin burns most sensitively at the beaches, where the sun can freely shine on the skin. A bathing suit that protects against UV rays is an effective way to avoid burning the child’s skin. Time passes very quickly at the beach and the skin also burns without any warning. The adult’s task is to ensure that the child’s skin is adequately protected from harmful UV rays.

On the beaches, also protect your own skin from the sun with light clothes and shades. When the skin starts to turn red, it is usually already burned. Skin temperature tells a lot. When you feel the skin, it should be warm at most, but not hot under any circumstances.

Nutrition and sun, internal sun protection

Nutrition plays a big role in the skin’s sun tolerance. The effect of plant phytochemicals such as carotenoids and flavonoids on sun tolerance has been studied to some extent. In these studies, it has been noticed that, for example, the carotenoid contained in carrots consumed as food and the flavonoids in other plants help the skin to survive better in sunlight.

Carotenoids are a natural UV protection. Carotenoids are not only very good antioxidants, but also substances that protect against the harmful effects of the sun. Tomatoes contain a carotenoid called lycopene. The carotenoid in carrots is called beta-carotene. The old, familiar carrot is very good for the ‘sun worshipper’ both externally and internally. Carrot carotenoids can easily turn the skin yellow, especially if you drink a lot of carrot juice. However, this is not dangerous.

Vitamin C acts as a skin protective factor against the harmful effects of the sun. The effect of vitamin C on the skin has been studied both internally when consumed with food and externally when applied to the skin. Vitamin C is abundant in berries, fruits and many vegetables.

UV protection from vegetable oils

There are many articles about the UV protection of flavonoids contained in vegetable oils. In some, instructions are generally given to protect yourself from UV rays using only vegetable oils. Many websites even specify protection factors for vegetable oils. However, the UV protection of any natural oil has never been defined. The UV protection factor is only awarded to products that have been tested with appropriate tests of products that protect against UV rays. Such tests are very demanding and expensive. No natural oil has undergone any official UV testing.

Natural oils, such as coconut oil or raspberry seed oil, do not in any way prevent the sun’s UV rays from reaching the skin. They do not contain any substance that would actually protect the skin from UV rays. Therefore, natural oils cannot be considered sun protection products by any standard.

Many parents are looking for safe UV protection for the baby and end up using coconut oil based on social media discussions and online articles. This is very dangerous for the baby’s skin, because the sensitive skin burns quite immediately if the skin is not properly protected. The best and safest sun protection for a baby is covering clothing and keeping the baby in the shade.

Coconut oil, on the other hand, is a very good after sun product to soothe the skin. Coconut is a cooling oil with rich skin-soothing, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. In case you have burnt your skin because of excessive sunbathing, there are special products available to relief the pain. In this case it is highly recommended to consult your local pharmacy.

However, many vegetable oils have quite good properties worth of utilizing when protecting yourself from the sun. Vegetable oils contain plenty of plant chemicals that protect the skin at the cellular level from the harmful effects of the sun. However, this does not mean that they act as actual sunscreens. I will later write a separate article on the use of vegetable oils protecting the skin from the harmful effects of the sun.

Physiological sunscreens

Physiological sunscreens mean products containing minerals such as zinc and titanium dioxide. Both minerals can be used in natural cosmetics, but not in nano size.

Physiological sunscreens leave a white layer on the skin. They are also difficult to clean from the skin, because their emulsion base is insoluble in water. To remove the physiological sunscreen, use an oil-based cleanser or a product specially designed for this purpose.

Nanoparticles in sunscreens

Nano-sized zinc and titanium dioxide are used in many non-natural cosmetic grade sunscreen products. It is very difficult to effectively filter the sun’s UV rays. In addition, there is a growing demand for more powerful, easy-to-use, and durable sun screen products. Therefore, the nano-sized particles have arrived as well.

Nano-sized minerals can pass through the skin and can end up anywhere in the body. There is no definite scientific evidence for this, but why to use them when there are other, safer options. You should be careful with nano-sized materials and use only natural cosmetics-quality, physiological sunscreens, which are widely available nowadays.

Minerals are the world’s oldest UV protection

All minerals block the sun’s UV rays. They are indeed the world’s oldest natural UV protection. In ancient times, man covered himself with mud, dust, and clay to avoid the scorching sun. Minerals form a physiological protection for the skin. You can try, for example, gentle kaolin clay on your skin. Home cosmetics use a lot of magnesium carbonate powder and mica powders, which act as natural sunscreens.

Can you make your own sunscreen?

Yes and no. Homemade “sunscreen” can be made, for example, using zinc oxide in cream. However, it is by no means an actual, real sunscreen.

Making a tested sunscreen is not easy. It is very challenging even for mammoth companies like Loreal. They spend millions to develop a functional and reliable sunscreen, but they don’t always succeed so well. It’s really naive to imagine that we could do it at home just by mixing zinc with cream.

UV protection must pass accurate and reliable tests before the product receives an SPF (sun protection factor). If the product does not have an SP Factor, it cannot be considered a reliable sun product.

Natural UV protection is also easy to make at home, but you can’t get an effective and tested one. You can easily find recipes for homemade sunscreens that use zinc. However, zinc does not spread very evenly on the skin and therefore does not provide protection. Zinc is a mineral and does not dissolve in the cream. The effectiveness of the cream may not even depend on the amount or quality of zinc or other minerals. There is no way you can get zinc to spread evenly in the cream at home.

However, you can make zinc creams. They are not harmful to the skin. They may even protect your skin somehow, but never rely on them. Always get a reliable tested natural cosmetic quality sunscreen product if you are going to the beach or the sea where UV radiation cannot be avoided.

Tips for sun worshippers!

• When you apply yellow carrot oil on the skin, you attract the sun’s tanning rays to you. This is how you get a beautiful tan. Carrot beta-carotene acts as a sun-collecting pigment on the skin. Tomatoes also contain a carotene called lycopene. It may be that the red colour of the tomato works in the same way. I have not yet heard that tomato lycopene can be used for tanning. Next summer, however, I’m going to try tomato oil on my skin.
• Exercise while in the sun. The tan is then more even and you don’t burn as easily.
• Drink a lot of water and take care of the salt balance, especially if the weather is very hot. Dry skin dries out faster than moist skin. Moisturizing the skin with water is also highly recommended.
• Take short breaks between sunbathing and let the skin cool down properly. Do not stay too long under the sun.
• Do not use products containing essential oils or ethanol in the sun. They make the skin burn very quickly. Some of the essential oils are phototoxic,  they make the skin irritated in the sun.

Sunny summer days for everyone!

What is your favourite sunscreen?

Artikkeli Factors affecting the level of UV protection julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Rainforests have their own special habitat

 Rainforests range from temperate zones to the hottest tropics. Rainforest is a type of vegetation where rainfall exceeds 1,500 millimetres per year. The largest rainforests are located in South America, Southeast Asia and Africa. Did you know that the rainforests of the temperate zone are located even in the Nordic countries? There is a small area on the Norwegian coast that is counted as a rainforest.

There are not very many rainforests on earth. Only about 2% of the earth’s surface is rainforest. The Amazon rainforest, the world’s largest rainforest, covers an area of ​​about 5.5 million square kilometres.

In the rainforests, life is elevated

The roof of the rainforest is about 30-50 metres above the ground. The canopies of large trees are there. The highest vines, the climbers do also reach the roof of the rainforest.

Below, in the shade of the canopies, is the undergrowth, inhabited by vines, flowers, ferns and decayed vegetation.

Some animals spend their entire lives in the canopy of the rainforest. Others spend their time mainly in the ground layers. The trees in the rainforests are dense and obscure the soil from light. Therefore, undergrowth in rainforests is very scarce. Typical rainforest undergrowth are mosses and ferns that can withstand low light. Other plants live in symbiosis on tree trunks. Tropical orchids are a good example of such plants. It is estimated that up to 70-90% of rainforest life is in trees. The soil often contains only bryophyte and the roots of the largest trees.

The biota of the rainforests is plentiful

Up to 70% of all species on Earth live in rainforests. The biodiversity of rainforests is so great that a large proportion of the rainforest inhabitants are still completely unknown. Heavy rains combined with heat create a unique habitat for plants, insects, birds and many other animals. The decline of rainforests on the planet is having a decisive impact on biodiversity.

The abundance of flora and fauna in the rainforest is dazzling. An area of ​​1,000 acres may contain 1,500 different flowering plants, 750 species of trees, 400 species of birds and 150 species of butterflies. The Amazon rainforest alone is home to 10% of the world’s known species. The trees that produce seeds and nuts can be up to 1,000 years old.

Rainforests are the pharmacy of the earth

A quarter of the world’s medicinal plants have been found in rainforests. 70% of the plants identified by the U.S. National Cancer Institute as being relevant for cancer treatment are found only in rainforests. Even more incredible is that although there is a huge repertoire of medicinal plants in the rainforests, only about 1% of them have been studied. There is a huge natural pharmacy in the rainforest. Local people living in rainforests have knowledge of the different plants’ suitability for medical purposes and skin care. Many of the rainforest products are highly antimicrobial. They have analgesic and antioxidant effects. Plants have special characteristics known as heritage. By using rainforest products collected by local people, we also pass this heritage information to future generations.

The lungs of the earth

Rainforests are called the lungs of the earth because they absorb carbon dioxide and produce oxygen. Rainforests absorb carbon dioxide from exhaust emission of cars, planes and heating. Rainforests are a major carbon sink. The gradual disappearance of rainforests is decreasing the earth’s ability to remove carbon, which has an adverse effect on the climate. Naturally, the state of the climate is also affected by many other things, such as the state of the seas.

Rainforests affect rainfall and cloud formation

 Rainforests have many effects on the global climate. Rainforests help maintain the world’s water cycle by evaporating water and creating rainfall. Drought is a major problem in many areas. The water mass created in the rainforests travels around the world. Moisture generated in the rainforests of Africa ends up in America and Europe. By deforestation of rainforests, we are creating new areas suffering from drought.

Humidity generated by rainforests also has an impact on climate change. Water vapor is one of the most important greenhouse gases. Therefore, even small changes and disturbances in the climate water balance can be fatal.

Rainforests are under threat

The area of ​​rainforests is decreasing every day. We are destroying rainforests so fast that they could disappear completely in a hundred years. Of the originally measured 15 million square kilometres of rainforest in the world, there are only about 6 million square kilometres left. Deforestation in the Amazon rainforest began in the 1960s. The destruction of the Amazon rainforest was at its peak in the 1990s. At that time, an area about the size of Spain was cut down as farmland for soybeans, oil palms, coconut palms, rubber trees and livestock. Mining has also destroyed a significant area of the rainforest. If oil palms or coconut palms are planted in place of the cut rainforest, the rainforest will not burn. The farm has only a tree field and the biotope rich in life is gone forever.

Currently, deforestation has calmed down due to intense pressure. However, 18 million hectares of forest are destroyed every year. The destruction of rainforests must be stopped.

The farmland expansion continues

Farmers are forced to deforest farmland from the rainforest, as the land already cleared will only remain fertile for a short time. Rainforests are very complex ecosystems. The nutrients in the rainforests are not in the soil but in the trees and other vegetation. When a rainforest tree dies naturally and decays, it releases nutrients for other plants. In this way, the surrounding plants utilize the dead plants as nutrients. There is not much nutrient in the rainforest soil itself. If the felled trees are removed, there will be no nutrients left in the ground for new growth. Therefore, the rainforest cannot regenerate after felling. And of course, the logs will be removed as the rainforests grow some of the world’s most valuable tree species. The smuggling of logs is quite common.

When a rainforest is cleared for soybean or oil palm plantation, the entire rainforest biotope is destroyed at the same time. Thousands of rare plants, trees, birds and butterflies are gone along the rainforest. The rainforest cannot be replanted. Rainforests have formed as a result of millions of years of evolution. Rainforest plants and animals are formed in certain types due to special conditions.

Fortunately, due to international pressure, world policymakers are already interested in protecting their rainforests. Brazil and Indonesia have stood up and made their legislation more rainforest-friendly. This is an important step in protecting rainforests. Brazil and Indonesia have the most rainforests in the world.

How can rainforests be protected?

The world is awakened by the plight of the rainforests. Numerous organizations are working to save rainforests. State administrations make decisions aimed at protecting rainforests. At the grassroot level, each of us can do something. The easiest way to protect rainforests is to support organizations that protect rainforests. I’ll tell you how you can support the vitality of rainforests in your cosmetic choices.

In rainforests, money grows on trees

Like all of us, local people living in or near rainforest need money to live on. They have children who need to be educated. They need proper health care as well as a home. They have two options for generating income; felling the forest trees and become a soybean grower or live in the traditional way, collecting valuable nuts and other forest products. With our own choices, we can encourage local people to maintain their ecological lifestyle. By purchasing and using rainforest products, we are also preventing the destruction of rainforests.

How rainforest-friendly raw materials for cosmetics is produced?

There are many nuts and seeds growing wild in the rainforests, which are used as raw materials for cosmetics. Because of these products, not a single rainforest tree has had to be planted or cut down. Only the nuts, seeds and fruits produced by trees are used in the products.

The world’s rainforests are home to an estimated 50 million people. They belong to the indigenous people of their territories. Indigenous people have always used the harvest of trees growing in rainforests for food, medicine and skin care. Most rainforest plants are completely dependent on the rainforest biotope. They cannot be cultivated like monoculture, a cultivation of single crop. The trees in the rainforest are completely wild.

Coconut palms also grow wild

Have you ever thought that a coconut palm, for example, is as unecological when cultivated as an oil palm or rubber tree? Organic, rainforest coconut palm is a whole different matter. Coconut palms growing in a natural biotope also smell and taste quite different from those growing in a monoculture. Local people in the rainforest have even treated acne with coconut oil. With regular coconut oil, this cannot be done because coconut oil easily clogs the skin. Authentic, natural coconut is a whole different thing. If you find wild coconut oil somewhere, give it a try.

Harvesting is collecting

Harvesting in the rainforests takes place only by manpower. Locals collect products from the rainforest at hand as night work, collecting in the woods. They know where the best trees are and because they produce the crop. Local people also know how often the crop can be harvested without damaging the plants.

For example, in addition to global warming, wild vanilla has suffered from excessive harvesting. Vanilla is a wild orchid species growing in rainforests that is highly endangered. The vanilla sold in the store is not this wild strain. Wild vanilla grows In Thailand and in some other countries.

Local rainforest people wander on foot along labyrinthine jungle trails in very rough terrains. Organic harvesting in rainforests does not require infrastructure such as roads or electricity grids. Local people are used to walking in the woods without damaging nature. After harvesting, the nuts are washed in the river and dried under the sun. Nuts produced by local people are particularly organic and ethical products.

Get rainforest products as raw materials for your cosmetics

Of course, I definitely prefer local products. However, in addition to these, we should also favour cosmetic raw materials that are produced ethically and ecologically in rainforests. That’s why I started my series “Treasures of Rainforest”.

Cosmetic choices can also make an impact

Many people think that cosmetics is a margin industry. The amounts of raw materials used in cosmetics are quite small. They should not matter for rainforests. However, I strongly disagree.

To start with an example, we, the people who are dealing with natural cosmetics, have been at the forefront of fighting for animal rights resulting vegan products. We have also been fighting against the use of massive child labour in the mica industry. Our voice has come a long way and influenced many policies. The reason for this is that cosmetic users represent a large grassroot level of people that forms the so-called public opinion. We have said no to unethical products and pointed out the grievances.

The cosmetics industry is following trends closely. Now the trend in cosmetics is ecology and ethics. Trends in cosmetics have a very strong impact on public opinion. With cosmetic choices, you can take important messages to consumers and thus to decision makers.

The Treasures of Rainforest -story series

I have written a series of articles on the treasures of the rainforests. The Treasures of Rainforest series tells the story of cosmetic raw materials that are the original plants of rainforests.

I would like every user and manufacturer of natural cosmetics to stop for a moment to think about the origin of the cosmetic raw materials they use. Where the products are made and how the raw materials are produced.

Here are some good cosmetic ingredients you can use in your own products

• Rainforest treasures; Kukui Nut oil
• Rainforest treasures; Murumuru butter
• Rainforest treasures; Sandalwood takes care of the skin and mind

Have you used products from the rainforest?

Artikkeli Treasures of the Rainforest; choose sustainable cosmetics julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

There are many different ways to study cosmetic formulating

Conventional cosmetics courses are held generally everywhere, especially in autumn. I collected dates of events to my blog’s event calendar. Anyone who wants to inform new event is more than welcome to do so. You can choose

• basic courses in cosmetics
• advanced courses in cosmetics
• cosmetics workshops
• online courses in cosmetics
• cosmetics with different themes; dogs, Christmas gifts, children, etc.
• detergent courses
• soap courses

How do I choose the right cosmetics trainer for myself?

Cosmetics courses are offered in community colleges, adult education centres and other publicly funded schools. In addition to this, there are few companies that organize cosmetics courses and workshops.

Of course, you should choose the course location near to you. The second criterion is, of course, the topic of the course. If you want to learn how to make emulsions, you should not choose a soap course. In the detergent course you’ll only learn how to make detergents, not cosmetics.

Feel free to contact the course organizers

If for some reason you can’t find a course that suits you, you can suggest the course content you want to the course organizers. You can also try to gather a suitable group yourself and design the appropriate content for the course together with the course leader. Many course leaders also offer services for small groups.

Online courses in cosmetics

Cosmetic formulating can also be studied online. The good thing about e-learning is the independence of time and place. You study at any time, at your own schedule. You can study where it suits you. even if you are not in direct contact with your trainer during the online course, clear instructions will help you progress in your hobby.

Why studying cosmetics is important

Of course, you can also make cosmetics yourself. You may not need courses at all. If you only make fresh masks or other simple products, a cosmetics course is not necessary. However, you may want to make other products as well. It is already good to start making latches and balms under the guidance of a professional teacher.

In the cosmetics course, you will really learn many important things about making cosmetics

• shelf life of products
• packaging
• handling of raw materials
• the properties of the raw materials and their suitability for your own skin type
• procurement of raw materials
• recipe design and ingredients
• product finishing
• the content of cosmetics; this also benefits the buyer of industrial cosmetics

You will have access to all this information if you apply for a cosmetics course. In addition, you have the opportunity to ask the teacher everything that bothers you or is still unclear.

I study cosmetics from books, isn’t that enough?

Books are great sources of information when studying how to make cosmetics products. I myself have a huge number of herbal books as well as books about making cosmetics. I’ve written a book myself; “Homemade Cosmetics: Raw Materials and Preparing”. It deals with natural raw materials used in cosmetics.

However, the making of cosmetics cannot be left to books alone. The theory in the books doesn’t just turn into practical skills. The preparation of the emulsion and ointment must be seen and tried at least once. Therefore, a cosmetics course is almost essential if you want to go further in your hobby.

The preparing of cosmetics in groups is cheaper

Saving money is one of the very significant advantages in making cosmetics in courses and workshops. If you would like to make cosmetics as a Christmas gift, you need many different ingredients.

Of course, you can only make cosmetics using only a couple of ingredients; herbal bath salt = salt + self-dried herbs + packaging. It is also cheaper to make such a product together with others.

The advantage is particularly pronounced when you prepare products with several special ingredients. With many workshop-type cosmetics courses, you only pay for the ingredients you use. For example, if the cream recipe contains five different oils, it is expensive to obtain them in small quantities. In groups, you can take advantage of larger and cheaper package sizes.

Get new ideas from the courses

Even an experienced cosmetics maker can get a new kick in their hobby with cosmetics courses. The course usually shares the latest ideas for making your own products. Christmas gift shops are a good example of this. It is sometimes very frustrating to try to figure out good ideas for Christmas gifts. At Christmas cosmetics workshops, you get ready-made ideas and ingredients for their implementation.

You should learn the basics of making cosmetics, even if you buy all your cosmetics you use

The making of cosmetics is interesting and instructive. You can see yourself what ingredients are used in cosmetics, what is useless and what is necessary. When you master the basics of making cosmetics, you can also better evaluate the products you buy. The course introduces you to the most common cosmetic ingredients. You will also find the same or similar ingredients in the cosmetics you buy. Mastering the basics of cosmetics will make you a more conscious consumer.

Have you ever participated a cosmetics course?

Artikkeli How do I start making cosmetics? julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.