Welcome to delve deeper into the basics of natural skin care! This article is aimed at those of you who want to take care of your skin effectively but gently – and possibly make your own cleansers. I have put together clear basic information and practical tips. If you are interested in trying out homemade cosmetics, you can find gentle cleanser recipes in the Helenatur Recipes section. Links to the recipes can be found below in the text.
Nutrition and lifestyle – The basis for healthy skin
Many factors affect the condition of the skin. A varied diet, such as high-quality protein, fresh vegetables, berries and good fats, provides the skin with building blocks. Vitamins and antioxidants support skin renewal and protect it from external stress.
Stress management and regular exercise are equally important: excessive stress can appear on the skin as impurities and dryness, while exercise improves blood circulation and helps the skin to recover. Fresh air supports the skin’s natural function.
In addition to all these factors, thorough but gentle cleansing of the skin is the most important thing to remember in skin well-being.
Why cleanse your skin?
Your skin is exposed to dust, sweat, sebum and air pollutants every day – even when you’re not wearing makeup. Regular cleansing removes these pollutants and helps prevent skin problems such as clogged pores and pimples.
Your skin renews itself every day. New cells are constantly being produced, and old cells are supposed to be removed by themselves. Thorough cleansing helps your skin renew itself by removing dead, flaky skin cells from the surface of the skin. Intense exfoliation is not recommended for facial skin as it may sensitize the skin. Instead, a sufficiently effective daily cleansing is recommended to ensure optimal skin function.
Cleansing interval – How to choose the right rhythm
For most people, daily cleansing of the face with a gentle milky cleanser or foaming gel (for oily skin) is suitable. If the face gets oily easily, cleanse the face in the morning and evening with a cleanser. For most of us, simply rinsing the face with warm water in the morning is enough.
Dry and sensitive skin benefits from washing less often and using especially mild, moisturizing products, such as cleansing oil or unscented cream. If the skin tightens or flakes after washing, reduce the washing interval and switch to a milder product.
In uncertain situations, it is worth consulting a dermatologist – this way you will find the right routine for your skin.
Fact box: Identifying your skin type
• Oily skin: Shiny, easily clogged. Needs cleansing twice a day.
• Dry skin: Tightens and flakes. Wash less often, use moisturizing products.
• Combination skin: Forehead, nose and chin become oily, cheeks dry. Choose a balancing cleanser.
• Sensitive skin: Reacts easily. Choose fragrance-free and very mild products.
Skin barrier and microbiome
The outermost layer of the skin is covered by a thin bacterial layer – the microbiome. The purpose of the microbiome is to protect the skin from harmful bacteria. To function well, the skin’s microbiome needs an acidic environment, pH 4.5–5.5. If the skin’s pH rises, the microbiome suffers and the skin’s natural bacterial flora changes.
The effect of detergents on the skin barrier
The choice of detergent is of great importance for the well-being of the skin. Products that are too strong, especially strong surfactants, can remove the skin’s protective fats and disrupt the microbiome. This can cause the skin to dry out and become easily irritated.
Gentle cleansing keeps the skin’s moisture and microbiome vibrant. That’s why it’s important to choose a detergent that suits your skin type.
Surfactants – What to choose and what to avoid?
Surfactants are ingredients in detergents that remove dirt and grease. However, not all surfactants are equally gentle.
• Strong surfactants: Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS), Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES) – effectively remove grease but can dry and irritate the skin.
• Gentle surfactants: Coco Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate – effectively clean but preserve the skin’s protective layer.
Tips for choosing a detergent
- Choose detergents with gentle surfactants.
- Avoid products containing SLS, SLES or ammonium lauryl sulphate.
- Choose a detergent with a pH close to the skin’s own pH (around 4.5–5.5).
- Try products that are fragrance-free and as little irritating to the skin as possible.
- Natural cosmetics cleansing oils and milky cleansers are suitable for many.
- If your skin feels tight after washing, switch to a milder product and wash less often.
Can a mild detergent clean effectively?
Yes, it can – if you clean it carefully. Spend at least a minute cleaning your face when you are not wearing makeup. You may need several products and up to ten minutes to remove makeup.
If makeup is left on your skin, it cannot breathe and becomes clogged easily. That is why it is important to have a gentle but effective cleansing for every skin type.
If you wish, you can double cleanse; first oil cleanse and then cleanse with a mild surfactant. Double cleansing is especially suitable to remove makeup.
Make your own detergents
When you make your own detergents, you know exactly what’s in your product. You can choose the ingredients according to your skin type, adjust the pH value on suitable level, and avoid unnecessary additives such as fragrances and dyes.
Homemade products clean effectively but don’t dry out or irritate your skin. With a little practice, you can find the right combination just for you.
In my experience, making detergents is much more difficult than making creams. Several different surfactants are used in the production of a high-quality detergent. Mixing different surfactants is challenging and requires both experience and knowledge of the properties of surfactants.
Choosing surfactants
Obtaining surfactants can be challenging. Many surfactants are only available to companies and are not sold in smaller batches. I recommend starting your detergents by using just one surfactant. For example, Decyl Glucoside is quite easily available. Decyl Glucoside is a neutral, gentle surfactant.
It is important to remember that although Decyl Glucoside is a mild surfactant, it is still a strong concentrate with a pH of 10–11, which is the same as in dishwashing detergent. The high pH and strength of the concentrate can irritate the skin at higher concentrations, so a lower amount ensures the gentleness of the product. Therefore, it is recommended to use from 5 up to 10% Decyl Glucoside in the product.
Always measure the pH of the product you are making.
This is best done with standard pH strips. The recommended pH for detergent products is 4.5–5.5. You can lower the pH by using citric acid. If you do not like citric acid, lactic acid works just as well. I use citric acid myself, as it is inexpensive and very easy to obtain.
I have put an approximate amount of citric acid in my own recipes. Your product may be different depending on the ingredients you use. Therefore, carefully dose the pH regulator first and measure the pH again from time to time.
Here are some previously published and now updated recipes for you to try in Helenatur’s recipes.
Summary and encouragement to experiment
Natural skin care is based on simple but effective choices. When you know your skin type and understand the importance of the protective layer and the microbiome, you can choose the cleansing products that are right for you – and make them by yourself if you want. Feel free to try homemade cleansers and observe how your skin feels. With small changes, you may notice big differences in your skin’s well-being!
Have you made your own skin cleansers yet?