What are natural cosmetics and how do they differ from conventional cosmetics?

Natural cosmetics is a rather vague term. You can call almost any cosmetic product natural cosmetics if you want. Since there is no general definition for natural cosmetics, manufacturers have acquired various certificates for their products. Certificates guarantee the quality of a cosmetic product.

There are many different natural cosmetics certificates. Natural cosmetics certificates define which ingredients are allowed in the product and/or which are not allowed in it. Each certificate is unique. Different certificates approve different ingredients for natural cosmetics. Some of them are very broad while others are particularly precise in terms of ingredients, their quality and processing.

Some of the most well-known natural cosmetics certificates are COSMOS, ECOCERT and NaTrue.

Interpreting the INCI list is not easy

The INCI list is bound by cosmetics legislation. The ingredients of a cosmetic product must be listed in a certain form and in a certain order. If the product contains, for example, ordinary rose hydrolate, it cannot be mentioned in this form in the list of ingredients. All products have an international INCI name, which rose water, for example, has “Rosa Damascena Flower Water”. Because of this rule, the INCI list is very difficult to interpret. It is a mixture of chemistry, Latin and English. You must learn to remember the INCI names of the most important ingredients.

Are uncertified natural cosmetics safe?

Kosmetiikkatuote voi olla täysin luonnollinen, vaikka sillä ei olisikaan sertifikaattia. Monet pienet itsenäiset kosmetiikkavalmistajat eivät sertifioi tuotteitaan taloudellisista syistä. Sertifiointi maksaa paljon, eikä kustannusten kattaminen myynnillä ole aina mahdollista. Pienet valmistajat eivät myöskään halua sitoutua monimutkaiseen sertifiointiprosessiin. Heillä ei välttämättä ole siihen aikaa tai resursseja. Paras tapa selvittää tuotteen koostumus on ymmärtää inci-listan sisältö.

Beware of greenwashing

Jotkut valmistajat kutsuvat omia tuotteitaan luonnonkosmetiikaksi, vaikka tuote sisältää paljon synteettisiä ainesosia. Toisaalta perinteinen kosmetiikka on nyt tullut hyvin lähelle luonnonkosmetiikkaa. Tämä johtuu luonnonkosmetiikan suosiosta ja kuluttajien kasvavasta tietoisuudesta. Monissa perinteisissä kosmetiikkatuotteissa säilöntäaine saattaa olla ainoa ainesosa, jota ei hyväksytä luonnonkosmetiikassa.

Nykyään on melko vaikea vetää selkeää rajaa luonnonkosmetiikan ja perinteisen kosmetiikan välille. Joskus tuote, jonka sanotaan olevan luonnonkosmetiikkaa, voi olla kauempana luonnonkosmetiikasta kuin perinteinen kosmetiikka. Näin tapahtuu vain silloin, kun tuotetta ei ole sertifioitu.

Strange ingredients in natural cosmetics

Natural cosmetics contain many ingredients with strange-sounding names. “If you can’t pronounce the name of the ingredient, it’s not safe.” This is often given to us as a guideline when we are wondering about long ingredient lists. Fortunately, this statement is not true. Many hard-to-pronounce ingredients in cosmetics are approved as raw materials for natural cosmetics and are therefore very safe.

Ingredients in natural cosmetics must also usually have a natural origin. This of course depends on the certificate. At least COSMOS, NaTrue and ECOCERT certificates require that all ingredients must have a natural origin. For example, all PEG ingredients are made with a chemical process called ethoxylation. Natural cosmetics certificates usually do not accept PEG ingredients precisely because of the ethoxylation process.

I have written a separate article about PEG ingredients on the Helenatur blog. It is worth reading my article if you are interested in the bad guys in cosmetics.

Some strangely named ingredients in natural cosmetics

Natural cosmetics contain a huge number of different chemicals. It is impossible to list them all here. I have listed only a few ingredients here that I have used when making cosmetics myself. You may have used these same ingredients if you have made home cosmetics by yourself.

The following substances are natural emulsifiers

• Coco Glucoside – made from coconut oil and fruit sugars
• Glyceryl Oleate – made from glycerol and olive oil
• Polyglyceryl-4-oleate – a PEG-free emulsifier, made from glycerine and sunflower oil
• Cetearyl Alcohol – made from natural oils, e.g. coconut, palm oil and other oils. Can also be synthetic, in which case it is not approved for natural cosmetics
• Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate – made from glycerine and castor oil
• Glyceryl Stearate Citrate – a palm oil-free emulsifier made from various vegetable oils
• Cetearyl Olivate – a PEG-free emulsifier made from olive oil olive oil and cetearyl alcohol. Olivem 1000 contains this.
• Sorbitan olivate – made from sorbitol and olive oil. Olivem 1000 contains this.

The following ingredients are humectants

• Glycerol – a sugar alcohol that is made from natural fats and oils. Glycerol can sometimes also be of animal origin.
• Pentylene Glycol – a solvent with humectant properties. This can be either synthetic or of natural origin (sugar cane and corn)
• Sodium lactate – the sodium salt of lactic acid
• Sorbitol – a sugar alcohol like glycerol

The following ingredients are preservatives

• Dehydroetikkahappo – tuotettu kemiallisella prosessilla
• Benzyl alcohol – occurs naturally in many fruits and berries, is also produced synthetically. Causes skin irritation in some people
• Benzoic acid – synthetically produced from toluene
• Potassium sorbate – potassium salt of sorbic acid, occurs naturally in, for example, rowan berries, but all sorbic acid in the world is produced synthetically.
• Trietyylisitraatti – sitruunahappoesteri, valmistettu synteettisesti

Natural cosmetics do not come from nature

As you can see, many ingredients in natural cosmetics are manufactured in chemical factories. Natural cosmetics is always a product made by somebody. Natural cosmetics are never completely natural products. Natural cosmetics are a compromise between conventional and completely natural ingredients.

If you want to use the most natural products possible on your skin, then choose water-free cosmetics. Water-free products do not contain emulsifiers, thickeners or preservatives. Water-free products represent natural cosmetics at their purest.

As soon as water or other aqueous liquid is added to the product, the product needs at least a preservative. Preservatives are the most industrially made ingredients in cosmetics. However, they are essential in products containing water if you want the product to last a few days longer. If you leave out the preservative, the shelf life of the product is comparable to homemade mayonnaise. It needs a refrigerator to be preserved, and even then, the product may only last a few days.

The chemicals in natural cosmetics are safe

If you use certified natural cosmetics, you can be sure that the ingredients in the product are safe. Even if they are not directly from nature, they are still as natural and minimally processed as possible. There are thousands of cosmetic ingredients that are never and will never be approved for natural cosmetics. This makes natural cosmetics so much safer. Even if you don’t know how to interpret INCI lists, natural cosmetics certificates guarantee that the product you buy contains the safest possible ingredients.

Artikkeli Secrets of the INCI list of natural cosmetics: Certificates, ingredients and safety julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Minerals in cosmetics include many different ingredients

Cosmetic minerals are usually known as cosmetic clays or, for example, Epsom and table salt. However, the range of minerals used in cosmetics is very wide. Most often, minerals are powdered, but they also occur in liquid form.

The best-known and oldest cosmetic minerals are of course clays. Rhassoul clay, French green clay and kaolin clay are cosmetic products that everyone knows. Salt has also been used extensively in cosmetics for thousands of years.

Lesser-known cosmetic minerals are volcanic ingredients, which are obtained from volcanic lava rocks.

Cosmetic minerals can also be found in liquid form and in very surprising products. For example, popular cosmetic liquids such as coconut water and aloe vera gel contain a lot of minerals. Nettle water and many other liquids extracted from natural herbs are also surprisingly rich in minerals. Everyone also knows that ordinary tap water and spring water contain minerals. When tap water contains a lot of minerals, we talk about hard water.

Basic information about minerals

Minerals are inorganic compounds that occur naturally. In nature, minerals are found in rock material. Natural stones and rocks typically contain 3–5 different minerals. Some minerals are elements and some are compounds.

The more common minerals are calcium, potassium, magnesium, iron, zinc and silicon. These are all elements.

When dissolved in water, minerals change the pH of the water to be more alkaline.

Cosmetic clays

Years ago, I talk about many cosmetic clays on the Helenatur blog. Let’s go over the basic information about clays again.

Clays are 100% natural products. Clays consist of very finely ground rock. The minerals in the rock depend on where in the world and what type of rock the clay comes from.

Cosmetic clays are not just any clay. They are carefully researched products. The mineral composition of each type of clay is known in detail. Each type of clay affects the skin in different ways, depending entirely on the minerals contained in the clay.

Compounds contained in clay, aka clay minerals

• Kaolin (kaolinite), montmorillonite (bentonite/pH clay), illite, chlorite.

Elements in clay

• Silicon, aluminium, iron, calcium, magnesium, and sodium

The aluminium in clay has been found to be safe when used in cosmetics. Although clay is rich in aluminium, it is in a chemically bound form – typically as aluminium silicate – that does not behave like the free aluminium salts used in antiperspirants.

Clay is used in cosmetics in face masks, some natural deodorants, powders, eye shadows, and as an exfoliant.

When working with clay, the shelf life of the product must be considered. Clay is a porous material that does not react well with preservatives. Natural preservatives do not work well when preserving emulsions containing clay. Therefore, clay products are often sold as a powder to be mixed with water or as products that do not contain any water at all.

Volcanic ingredients

Volcanic material is created by volcanic lava eruptions. Volcanic material contains very different minerals than clays because lava comes from deep within the Earth. The slopes of volcanoes are considered the most fertile areas in the world because plants love the soil enriched by lava. That is why volcanic materials have also started to be used in skin care.

When hot lava erupts into the sea, a dark dusty substance rises to the surface of the water. This is called volcanic sand. Don’t be scared by the word sand. Volcanic sand is so light that it can float on the surface of the water. It is not sharp like regular sand. Volcanic sand is also not the same as volcanic ash. Volcanic ash is abrasive and should not be used in skin care.

Volcanic sand is formed wherever there is an active volcano and the sea. Iceland, the Canary Islands and Hawaii are, for example, places where volcanic ash is obtained.

The lava rock material is mainly basalt. Volcanic sand contains a lot of magnesium, silica and manganese. These minerals have been used since ancient times to improve blood circulation and maintain skin health. Volcanic sand also contains small amounts of garnet, zirconium, and titanium. These minerals are not found in any natural clay.

Volcanic sand brightens the skin and reduces inflammation. It does not contain any allergenic substances, so volcanic sand is often used to relieve the symptoms of inflammatory skin diseases.

Volcanic sand also works well as a gentle exfoliant.

Cosmetic Salts

Salt is a very popular mineral in cosmetics. In addition to sodium, real sea salt also contains potassium and magnesium and small amounts of other minerals.

Salt softens dead skin cells and causes them to renew. That is why salt is recommended to be added to foot baths and bath water in general. I have myself made a simple and inexpensive chemical peel from salt water and ground flax seeds. It is suitable for the face and also for the whole body.

Salt is quite demanding to work in emulsions. A conditioner containing salt sounds attractive. However, a conditioner containing salt is quite difficult to implement with the most common emulsifiers in natural cosmetics. I have seen a natural cosmetics-grade emulsion containing salt in the store, where the water phase had separated. I recommend salt only for anhydrous products. A salt scrub with fine salt and oils is a very effective and usable product.

Liquid minerals

All natural liquids used in cosmetics contain minerals. Tap water also contains some minerals, depending on your location. Because minerals create instability in emulsions and reduce shelf life, cosmetic manufacturers use distilled water as the liquid in their products. Distilled water is sold as battery water. It is pure, mineral-free, and is recommended for use in cosmetics instead of tap water.

Hydrolats are distilled and mineral-free, so they are particularly suitable for making cosmetics.

Aloe vera gels and coconut water are very popular water phases for emulsions. However, you should be careful with them because they contain a lot of different salts. Too much salt can break the emulsion. Some emulsifiers are more tolerant to salts. If you want to make an emulsion from coconut water, you should pay attention to the choice of emulsifier.

Xanthan gum may also lose its effectiveness in an environment that is too mineral.

Working with minerals is fun

I have stocked up on all possible minerals. I always buy large quantities of different clay types at once. Minerals do not expire like other cosmetic raw materials. Protect minerals from moisture and dust. It is most convenient to pack minerals in jars with lids and store them in a dry place. This way they do not clump. Label each jar with precise information about the product.

Compare different minerals. There are big differences in how clays behave on the skin. This way you will learn which type of clay suits your skin best.

Artikkeli Minerals in cosmetics julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Nutrition and lifestyle – The basis for healthy skin

Many factors affect the condition of the skin. A varied diet, such as high-quality protein, fresh vegetables, berries and good fats, provides the skin with building blocks. Vitamins and antioxidants support skin renewal and protect it from external stress.

Stress management and regular exercise are equally important: excessive stress can appear on the skin as impurities and dryness, while exercise improves blood circulation and helps the skin to recover. Fresh air supports the skin’s natural function.

In addition to all these factors, thorough but gentle cleansing of the skin is the most important thing to remember in skin well-being.

Why cleanse your skin?

Your skin is exposed to dust, sweat, sebum and air pollutants every day – even when you’re not wearing makeup. Regular cleansing removes these pollutants and helps prevent skin problems such as clogged pores and pimples.

Your skin renews itself every day. New cells are constantly being produced, and old cells are supposed to be removed by themselves. Thorough cleansing helps your skin renew itself by removing dead, flaky skin cells from the surface of the skin. Intense exfoliation is not recommended for facial skin as it may sensitize the skin. Instead, a sufficiently effective daily cleansing is recommended to ensure optimal skin function.

Cleansing interval – How to choose the right rhythm

For most people, daily cleansing of the face with a gentle milky cleanser or foaming gel (for oily skin) is suitable. If the face gets oily easily, cleanse the face in the morning and evening with a cleanser. For most of us, simply rinsing the face with warm water in the morning is enough.

Dry and sensitive skin benefits from washing less often and using especially mild, moisturizing products, such as cleansing oil or unscented cream. If the skin tightens or flakes after washing, reduce the washing interval and switch to a milder product.

In uncertain situations, it is worth consulting a dermatologist – this way you will find the right routine for your skin.

Fact box: Identifying your skin type

• Oily skin: Shiny, easily clogged. Needs cleansing twice a day.

• Dry skin: Tightens and flakes. Wash less often, use moisturizing products.

• Combination skin: Forehead, nose and chin become oily, cheeks dry. Choose a balancing cleanser.

• Sensitive skin: Reacts easily. Choose fragrance-free and very mild products.

Skin barrier and microbiome

The outermost layer of the skin is covered by a thin bacterial layer – the microbiome. The purpose of the microbiome is to protect the skin from harmful bacteria. To function well, the skin’s microbiome needs an acidic environment, pH 4.5–5.5. If the skin’s pH rises, the microbiome suffers and the skin’s natural bacterial flora changes.

The effect of detergents on the skin barrier

The choice of detergent is of great importance for the well-being of the skin. Products that are too strong, especially strong surfactants, can remove the skin’s protective fats and disrupt the microbiome. This can cause the skin to dry out and become easily irritated.

Gentle cleansing keeps the skin’s moisture and microbiome vibrant. That’s why it’s important to choose a detergent that suits your skin type.

Surfactants – What to choose and what to avoid?

Surfactants are ingredients in detergents that remove dirt and grease. However, not all surfactants are equally gentle.

• Strong surfactants: Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS), Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES) – effectively remove grease but can dry and irritate the skin.

• Gentle surfactants: Coco Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate – effectively clean but preserve the skin’s protective layer.

Tips for choosing a detergent

• Choose detergents with gentle surfactants.
• Avoid products containing SLS, SLES or ammonium lauryl sulphate.
• Choose a detergent with a pH close to the skin’s own pH (around 4.5–5.5).
• Try products that are fragrance-free and as little irritating to the skin as possible.
• Natural cosmetics cleansing oils and milky cleansers are suitable for many.
• If your skin feels tight after washing, switch to a milder product and wash less often.

Can a mild detergent clean effectively?

Yes, it can – if you clean it carefully. Spend at least a minute cleaning your face when you are not wearing makeup. You may need several products and up to ten minutes to remove makeup.

If makeup is left on your skin, it cannot breathe and becomes clogged easily. That is why it is important to have a gentle but effective cleansing for every skin type.

If you wish, you can double cleanse; first oil cleanse and then cleanse with a mild surfactant. Double cleansing is especially suitable to remove makeup.

Make your own detergents

When you make your own detergents, you know exactly what’s in your product. You can choose the ingredients according to your skin type, adjust the pH value on suitable level, and avoid unnecessary additives such as fragrances and dyes.

Homemade products clean effectively but don’t dry out or irritate your skin. With a little practice, you can find the right combination just for you.

In my experience, making detergents is much more difficult than making creams. Several different surfactants are used in the production of a high-quality detergent. Mixing different surfactants is challenging and requires both experience and knowledge of the properties of surfactants.

Choosing surfactants

Obtaining surfactants can be challenging. Many surfactants are only available to companies and are not sold in smaller batches. I recommend starting your detergents by using just one surfactant. For example, Decyl Glucoside is quite easily available. Decyl Glucoside is a neutral, gentle surfactant.

It is important to remember that although Decyl Glucoside is a mild surfactant, it is still a strong concentrate with a pH of 10–11, which is the same as in dishwashing detergent. The high pH and strength of the concentrate can irritate the skin at higher concentrations, so a lower amount ensures the gentleness of the product. Therefore, it is recommended to use from 5 up to 10% Decyl Glucoside in the product.

Always measure the pH of the product you are making.

This is best done with standard pH strips. The recommended pH for detergent products is 4.5–5.5. You can lower the pH by using citric acid. If you do not like citric acid, lactic acid works just as well. I use citric acid myself, as it is inexpensive and very easy to obtain.

I have put an approximate amount of citric acid in my own recipes. Your product may be different depending on the ingredients you use. Therefore, carefully dose the pH regulator first and measure the pH again from time to time.

Here are some previously published and now updated recipes for you to try in Helenatur’s recipes.

• Very mild shampoo for children

Summary and encouragement to experiment

Natural skin care is based on simple but effective choices. When you know your skin type and understand the importance of the protective layer and the microbiome, you can choose the cleansing products that are right for you – and make them by yourself if you want. Feel free to try homemade cleansers and observe how your skin feels. With small changes, you may notice big differences in your skin’s well-being!

Have you made your own skin cleansers yet?

Artikkeli Natural skin cleansers – a guide to gentle skin cleansing julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Where do natural fragrances come from?

Most plants have a scent. Sometimes the scent is very mild and unnoticeable, sometimes it is strong and covers everything.

Plants use scents to communicate. Sweet scents attract insects to pollinate the plant. Pungent, minty scents, on the other hand, act as a defence mechanism for plants. Pungent scents repel pests and thus protect the plant. This property has also been exploited in the chemical industry. Pyrethrin is a natural scent isolated from chrysanthemum flowers, which acts as a fast-acting pest control agent. Unfortunately, pyrethrin is toxic to aquatic organisms, so its use is limited.

Plant scents are not only concentrated in flowers. Scents can also be found in leaves, stems, bark, resin, roots, fruits, fruit peels and seeds. Different plants have scents in different parts of the plant. For example, a rose flower has a strong scent, but rose leaves or berries have hardy any scent. Pine bark, resin, wood and needles have a scent, but pine flowers do not have a strong scent.

How do I get plant scents into my product?

Plant scent components are usually steam distilled from other plant material. The scented components of plants are usually fat-soluble. Steam distillation separates the fragrant components from the water-soluble components. This is how essential oils are made. The fat-soluble part created during distillation is called the essential oil, and the water-soluble part is called the hydrolate.

Distillation is the most efficient way to extract the fragrant components from plant material. Steam distillation produces two fragrant products: essential oil and hydrolate. Hydrolats are a great way to replace essential oils in water-based products.

However, there are other ways to isolate scents from plants. Oil extraction, or maceration, is the most popular. For some plants, alcohol extraction or water infusion are better options.

There are also fragrant plants that you can use in certain cosmetic products as is. By grinding dried seeds or peels, you can make the product smell great without adding any fragrance. Many waxes and vegetable oils smell great naturally. Their own scent is not worth covering up.

Let’s take a closer look at the handling of scented ingredients.

Natural scented waxes and butters

Many waxes and butters are naturally fragrant. If your product has a lot of scented ingredients, you don’t necessarily need essential oils or other, additional fragrances.

Candelilla wax smells so good. It has a fresh, fruity scent, just like some perfumes. Many people use candelilla wax precisely because of its wonderful scent. The downside of candelilla wax is that it tastes pungent. So you should not mix it with lip balm.

Cocoa butter smells and tastes exactly like chocolate. If your product contains a lot of cocoa butter, you don’t need other fragrances. It is also hard to cover the smell of cocoa. If you do not want a chocolate smell in your product, just use a very little of cocoa butter. The smell of cocoa is often associated with oranges and tangerines. Try using oil macerated with orange peels together with cocoa butter.

Cupuacu butter smells like tropical fruit and coconut. It is one of the best plant butters to bring fragrance to a product. You can use cupuacu butter in your product like shea butter.

Tucuma butter has a light, nutty, earthy scent. If you only use a little bit of tucuma butter in your product, it may not be enough to scent the entire product.

If you want a stronger earthy scent, add a little ucuuba butter to the product. The scent of ucuuba butter is controversial.

Ucuuba butter is very dark and aromatic. When used in small amounts, it gives a wonderful scent to the product. The dark appearance of ucuuba butter can be intimidating. There is no need to worry about it because when used in small amounts, the dark color does not come through in the product. I have used ucuuba butter in products a lot myself. I have somehow liked its earthy aroma.

Oil extracts or macerated oils

The oil acts as a solvent. With the help of oil, you can extract active ingredients from plants. At the same time, fragrant ingredients are also extracted because they are fat-soluble. Macerated oil contains the same fragrant ingredients as essential oils. However, the scent is much milder in maceration. You can use the macerated oil directly on your skin or make a water-free lotion by combining it with fragrant waxes and fragrant vegetable butter.

The best flowers for maceration are richly scented flowers such as dried roses and dried citrus peels. Other suitable fragrant plants are spicy herbs such as mint, rosemary, lavender and fennel seeds.

Do you like the smell of vanilla? Infuse a used vanilla bean in 65-degree (Celsius) oil for about an hour. You will get a wonderfully fragrant, all-natural vanilla oil.

The sky is the limit when macerating. Use your imagination. Find new scents and try extracting them into oil.

In case you have never macerated oils before, you can read my old article about oil extractions.

You can use any oil that suits your skin for maceration. Macerated oils will be preserved for about 4–6 months, depending on the oil.

Hydrolats

Hydrolats are created at the same time as essential oils are made. A true hydrolate is always made by distillation. Hydrolats contain the same fragrances as essential oils. They are just much milder.

Essential oils have specific limits for use on the skin. Instead, you can use hydrolats in any amount you want and apply them directly to the skin. Hydrolats are often used like a toner. They refresh the skin but have hardly any moisturizing effect.

Hydrolats are popular in cosmetics precisely because of their scent. I often use hydrolat as the only scent in the entire product. The scent of the product is then subdued and pleasant. When using hydrolats, you cannot add too much scent, as is often the case with essential oils. You can perfectly use just hydrolate as a water phase of the product.

Powders made from fragrant plants

Grinding plants for cosmetics was at one point my favourite hobby. I made powder from different seeds and used the powder in cosmetics for different purposes. Most cosmetic powders are unscented. They care for or cleanse the skin.

Dried, fragrant plant powders are also suitable for cosmetics. However, I would not put fragrant powders such as rose powder or orange-peel powder in products that are left on the skin at all, as they may cause allergies when used in large quantities.

A good way to use fragrant powders is in body scrubs. For example, powder made from dried orange peels or rose petals is very suitable for scenting many bath products.

In the summer, fragrant herbs such as meadowsweet, mint and birch leaves can be dried together with sea salt. Grind the dried plant parts together with salt when all plant parts are completely dried and use it in a foot bath, for example.

Alcohol extracts with natural scent

If you want to scent water-based products such as facial toners, forget all oils. Combining oils and water is not quite simple. In addition, essential oils are also not suitable for products containing only liquids unless you use cosmetic solvents in the product.

For water-based products, you can try alcohol extracts. Alcohol is not suitable for everyone’s skin. The best option for scenting facial toners is, of course, hydrolate. Use alcohol extracts only in limited cases when there is no other option.

Alcohol extracts are best suited for plants such as vanilla and fragrant roots and wood.

Fragrant ingredients are exciting to experiment with

The next time you make your own cosmetics, think about how you can get scents in your product without essential oils. Making cosmetics is a fun and exciting adventure where you can try out ideas that may seem impossible. Smell different plant parts and think about how you can isolate the scent from them for your own product.

Product scenting is one area that will surely interest you too. If you make the fragrances you are using in the product by yourself, you can be sure that the product is completely unique.

Artikkeli Fragrance ingredients in cosmetics julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Labelling fragrances in cosmetics on the INCI list

The INCI list of cosmetics is a rather scary and complicated matter for many consumers. However, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the INCI list because it contains so much information about all the cosmetic products.

The ingredients in the INCI list are listed in order of magnitude. The ingredient that is present in the product in the highest percentage is first. That is why you will often find the name Aqua (water) first.

Finally in the INCI list are ingredients which are present less than 1%. This group also includes fragrances. If a product contains less than 1 % of an ingredient (or several ingredients), it must be listed in the INCI list, but they can be listed any order. You will usually find all essential oils and their components in this group because essential oils are used in products applied to the face in amounts less than 1%. In body care products, the amounts can be bigger. Each essential oil and its components must be listed separately in the INCI list. In addition, the allergens contained in each essential oil must be added to the end of the INCI list. Most common of these are linalool and limonene, which are found in many essential oils.

The INCI labels for synthetic fragrances differ from the labels for natural essential oils. Synthetic fragrances consist of several different fragrance components. Sometimes there may be up to hundreds of fragrance components in one fragrance. Each component is present in such a negligible amount in the product that it has not been considered necessary to disclose the ingredients of the fragrance to consumers.

Therefore, the INCI label does not need to list synthetic fragrance components separately. It is sufficient if the INCI contains the word “Parfum”

Why are synthetic fragrances so popular?

There are significantly more synthetic fragrances in cosmetics than natural, plant-derived fragrances. There are many reasons for this.

1. Synthetic fragrances are significantly cheaper than natural essential oils. A product that is chemically completely identical to any essential oil can be produced in a laboratory. For example, linalool and limonene are typical components of essential oils. They are very popular not only in cosmetics but also in cleaning agents and hand dishwashing detergents. Linalool and limonene are found, for example, in rose and lavender essential oils. The same components can be produced very cheaply in a laboratory. This gives an affordable dishwashing liquid a citrus scent without using a huge amount of expensive essential oils.
2. Synthetic fragrances are stable and last longer in products. For example, expensive perfumes use a lot of synthetic ingredients precisely because of the durability and stability of the scent. Synthetic fragrances also last longer on the skin. This is easily noticeable in fabric softeners. Fabric softeners scented with synthetic fragrances leave a scent on the textile that lasts from wash to wash.
3. Synthetic fragrances give fragrance laboratories unlimited opportunities to create new scents by combining different chemicals. Today, the world of cosmetic fragrances has changed enormously. Developing new scents is such an important part of branding a cosmetic product. Everyone smells the product first. If the odour is not pleasant, the product will remain in the store.
4. When using synthetic fragrances, manufacturers do not have to be afraid of common allergens that are abundant in natural essential oils. For example, the very popular rose essential oil is highly allergenic. It cannot be used even at 1% in a product. A synthetic rose scent can be created in a laboratory that does not contain any of the allergens of a real rose. Many people may be comfortable with a synthetic scent, because natural scents will cause symptoms.
5. Synthetic scents can sometimes be more durable alternatives to natural scents. Natural animal-derived scents can almost always be replaced with synthetic scents.

What components do synthetic scents contain?

Synthetic scents are a group of chemicals produced in a laboratory, the origins of which can be very different. Synthetic scents are often based on petrochemical products.

A large part of synthetic scents are secret ingredients whose composition has not been disclosed. So, you will never know what the word “Parfum” contains. Perfume manufacturers justify hiding ingredients because of trade secret reasons. They don’t want competitors to copy the perfume recipe.

Below are some of the more common synthetic fragrances ingredients in perfumes. Some synthetic fragrance components are relatively safe, but a fairly large number cause health problems.

Ethyl maltol

Ethyl maltol gives fragrances their sweet, candy-like scent. Almost all candy-like fragrances use ethyl maltol. It is a relatively new invention from 1992. After that, candy scents began to become more common in cosmetics.

Ethyl maltol is used in cosmetics in very small amounts and has been found to be quite safe. Ethyl maltol causes problems in large amounts, especially in electronic cigarettes. Ethyl maltol affects cell metabolism.

Coumarin

Coumarin is a solid, colourless substance with a sweet vanilla odour and a bitter taste. Coumarin is toxic. In Europe, health authorities have warned about cassia cinnamon, which contains a significant amount of coumarin. Coumarin is a hepatotoxic chemical. Coumarin has been found to be highly toxic and even fatal in mice and rats. Coumarin is better tolerated by the human metabolism, but it is still a problem for the human liver.

Ambroxide

Ambroxide has a woody and ambery scent. It is very common in perfumes. Ambroxide also occurs naturally in amber.

Ambroxide has been found to be safe if used only in small amounts. Synthetic ambroxide is a more sustainable alternative to amber.

Synthetic musks

Musk fragrances are animal-derived scents if they are natural. For this reason, synthetic musk is a very popular alternative. Synthetic musk lacks the feces aromas of natural musk, so its scent is clean and soft. Synthetic musk is a common root scent in perfumes.

Synthetic musk products also have their negative sides. They are not biodegradable. They accumulate easily in nature and in human fatty tissue. Besides, they are hormone disruptors and cause reproductive problems. They accumulate in breast milk and cause problems in vital defence systems.

Synthetic musk also cause allergies.

Aldehydes

Aldehydes are a very large group of chemicals that people are sensitive to. Synthetic fragrances very often contain different aldehydes.

The health effects of aldehydes have been studied extensively. Human exposure to aldehydes is a very big concern. Aldehydes can cause eye, skin and respiratory tract irritation. Other aldehydes, such as formaldehyde, are carcinogenic.

Humans are exposed to many different aldehydes on daily basis and the interaction of these substances can be unpredictable. Imagine that there are two or three different aldehydes in a product, which would be reasonably harmless. When combined, these aldehydes form compounds that can be seriously dangerous. No one knows exactly how different aldehydes interact. A lot of research has been done, but the subject is very broad and complex. More research and information on the behaviour of different aldehydes is needed.

Why should we be concerned about synthetic fragrances?

Secret ingredients are the problem with synthetic fragrances. Behind the word “Parfum” can be hidden a huge number of different chemicals, some of which are also harmful to health.

Such a procedure leaves the consumer in the dark. How could the consumer be sure of the safety of the product if not all the ingredients are listed?

It is common knowledge that components of uncertain safety are used in the production of synthetic fragrances. A large group of aldehydes have not yet been studied sufficiently yet. How we can be sure about their safety?

How do I avoid synthetic fragrances in cosmetics?

Even if you are not that familiar with the INCI list, you should remember the word “Parfum” or “Fragrance”. Both mean that the product probably contains fragrances of synthetic origin.

Choose unscented products. Some products have a label stating that they are unscented, but not all. It is worth asking the shop for help.

Choose natural cosmetics, preferably certified natural cosmetics. Certified natural cosmetics are not allowed to use synthetic ingredients. Most small artisan manufacturers also use only natural ingredients, even if they have not applied for the expensive natural cosmetics certificate.

Do you avoid synthetic fragrances? Tell us what fragrances you use instead of synthetic fragrances.

Artikkeli Synthetic fragrances in cosmetics julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

This article discusses the practice and benefits of substituting ingredients in homemade cosmetics. It highlights the challenges of matching recipes to personal preferences and available supplies, stressing the importance of experimenting with alternative oils, emulsifiers, and fragrances. The text also addresses the complications posed by allergies, particularly nut allergies, and suggests organising ingredients into groups based on their function to simplify finding suitable substitutes within the same category.

You must be more specific when substituting ingredients in cosmetics. In this article, I will tell you which ingredients you can substitute, and which are essential for a successful result.

Substituting ingredients challenges you to experiment

It is rare that a cosmetic recipe perfectly matches your own preferences. If I use a ready-made recipe, I usually replace at least two or three ingredients.

I often want to try new oils or emulsifiers, or I have found a new essential oil fragrance blend. Trying out new ingredients is quite exciting. For me, it is one of the main reasons to make cosmetics.

A classic situation in my case is that I do not have the necessary ingredient in my cupboard. My cosmetic ingredient inventory is quite massive. There are a huge number of cosmetic ingredients. It is completely impossible to keep them all in stock. That is why it is good to learn how to replace ingredients with other similar products.

Allergies limit the choice of cosmetic ingredients quite a lot. If you have sensitive skin and allergies, you need to think carefully about which ingredients you allow in your product. For example, people with nut allergies cannot use oils pressed from nuts. Some people with nut allergies are also irritated by apricot kernel oil and peach kernel oil. Sometimes there are only very few permitted ingredients left. Such a situation is challenging for any cosmetics manufacturer.

Treat ingredients in groups

It makes it much easier to replace ingredients by dividing them into groups according to their intended use. When you deal with cosmetic ingredients in groups, it is easier to find a replacement product.

I divide the most typical cosmetic ingredients into four different groups. The basic rule is that when you replace ingredients, only replace them within the same group. There are exceptions to this rule, which I will tell you about in a moment.

Liquids

In a product that uses water-based ingredients, most of the product is usually water. You can replace some or all the water with hydrolate, aloe vera juice, or your favourite herbal infusion. Replacing liquid is easy and usually always successful. Especially in facial toners

However, problems can arise if you use liquids that contain a lot of salts. For example, coconut water can be used in facial toners, but I do not recommend it in emulsions due to its mineral content.

Hydrolats increase the acidity of the product, which is usually a good thing. However, you should measure the pH to make sure that the product is at the desired pH level.

Oils and Butters

Replacing oils is also quite convenient. It is rare for a product to fail technically due to the wrong choice of oil.

However, oils are not the same. There are significant differences between oils that you will notice when you use the product. If you want an oil that is well absorbed into the product, choose an oil with linoleic acid. If you want the cream you make to protect your skin from drying out, choose an oil with palmitic acid and palmitoleic acid. The best cream is created from a mixture of different oils.

If you want to replace an oil containing linoleic acid, choose one of the seed oils. All seed oils are rich in linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids. If you want to replace an oil containing palmitic acid, choose one of the vegetable oils.

Most oils contain a balanced amount of linoleic acid, oleic acid, and palmitic acid. By comparing the fatty acids contained in the oils, you will find many options for the cosmetics you are making.

A good way to choose a replacement oil is to use an oil from the same plant group. If you don’t have blueberry seed oil but you do find raspberry seed oil, use it. The same applies to plum, apricot and peach stone oils. They resemble each other because they are all rose seed oils.

Emulsifiers

Emulsifiers are needed when you make a product that contains both water and oil. An emulsifier binds water and oil into a smooth emulsion.

Replacing an emulsifier is challenging. In Finland, we don’t have a very comprehensive selection of emulsifiers on hand. Our circle of cosmetics enthusiasts is so small that it is not worth it for us to maintain such a large selection.

The most common emulsifier is Olivem 1000. It is a very popular and easy-to-use emulsifier. If you don’t have If you have no previous experience in the production of cosmetics, I recommend starting with the Olivem 1000 emulsifier to make emulsion creams.

Emulsifiers have very different properties and there are big differences in their handling and dosage. Therefore, it is not a good idea to change the emulsifier in a product unless you have experience with the behaviour of different emulsifiers.

What to do if Olivem 1000 is almost gone and is not quite enough to make a cream. You can add a little thickener to the emulsion to make the cream suitably solid.

Thickeners

Ingredients that are not directly emulsifiers but still increase the viscosity of the product are called thickeners. There are two different types of thickeners in natural home cosmetics.

• gums, which affect the water phase

• fatty alcohols, which affect the oil phase

When you want to replace a gum or fatty alcohol in a product, always look for a substitute from the same product group. Gums cannot be replaced with fatty alcohols and vice versa because they function differently in the product.

Many people are already familiar with xanthan gum. Xanthan gum is a very common and easy-to-use thickener for water-based products. It stabilizes the actual emulsifier and makes the emulsion feel less greasy. Xanthan gum has been refined into grades that are well suited for cosmetics.

There are different types of xanthan gum. Regular xanthan gum does not create an aesthetically beautiful result for, for example, facial toners. Shampoo may also remain uneven and cloudy. Therefore, I recommend purchasing only translucent xanthan gum for products that are intended to be transparent.

In emulsion creams, you can use whichever grade of xanthan gum you want.

There are many alternatives to xanthan gum. Examples of other gums

• Konjac gum
• Locust bean gum (carob powder)
• Guar gum (used especially in hair products)
• Acacia gum
• Sodium Alginate (a gum processed from seaweed)

Fatty alcohols are also quite familiar to many home cosmetics manufacturers. Familiar fatty alcohols are

• Cetearyl alcohol
• Stearyl alcohol
• Cetyl alcohol

Cetyl alcohol is a mixture of cetearyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is the mildest fatty alcohol of all. Fatty alcohols thicken products that contain oils and fats. They cannot be used in completely fat-free products.

You can use these fatty alcohols in parallel and replace them with a fatty alcohol from the same group if you wish. You can also replace part of the emulsifier with fatty alcohols in an emergency. The result may not be the same as an emulsion made with an emulsifier, but you will get a slightly higher viscosity in the product.

Moisturizing ingredients

There are many natural moisturizing ingredients. The most well-known moisturizing ingredients are

• Glycerol
• Allantoin
• Hyaluronic acid
• Pentylene glycol
• Sodium PCA
• Propanediol

It is possible that some essential moisturizing ingredients were left out of the list. There are so many of these and more are becoming available all the time.

Moisturizing ingredients work in the skin by storing moisture in the skin either from the skin itself, from the surrounding air, or both. Each moisturizing ingredient works slightly differently. If you want to replace one of the compounds listed above with glycerol, for example, pay special attention to the dosage. For example, allantoin can only be used at 0.2% and glycerol at up to 5%.

All moisturizing ingredients are water-soluble, so they can only be used in emulsions or toners.

Active ingredients

When replacing active ingredients, you should consider the intended use of the ingredient. If you want to add antioxidants to your product, you can choose from many different options. Antioxidants are also abundant in vegetable oils. For example, sea buckthorn oil is particularly high in carotenoids.

Skin soothing agents

• Oats extract and colloidal oatmeal
• Centella or Gotu Kola

Pore-tightening ingredients

• Tannins such as acorn extract and green tea extract
• All rose family (Rosaceae) plants and their extracts

Skin brightening ingredients

• Azelaic acid
• Niacinamide
• Vitamin C

Collagen boosters

• Vitamin C
• Seaweed extracts

When you want to replace an active ingredient, first check the recommended use and then correct your recipe with the correct amounts.

Fragrances

Essential oils are commonly used as fragrances in home made cosmetics. All essential oils can be replaced with another essential oil. You can also leave out essential oils if you wish and it will not affect the composition and stability of the product in any way.

When using essential oils, you need to pay special attention to the dosage. Essential oils cannot be used in very large quantities. In products designed for the face, essential oils can be up to 1%. In products intended for the eye area and lips, you can only use 0.5% essential oils.

Some essential oils are stronger and more allergenic than others. in others. For example, everyone’s favourite rose essential oil is very allergenic. You can’t add the same amount of rose essential oil as, for example, sweet orange essential oil. The same problem exists with lavender essential oil.

If you are not very familiar with essential oils, start carefully and only with the most common essential oils. The safest essential oils are citrus oils such as orange, lime and lemon.

Substituting ingredients is often challenging but quite interesting and fun

Be brave and try new ingredients. Only by experimenting will you learn to tweak ready-made recipes to your liking. When you start working on a completely new recipe and don’t have all the ingredients, first make just a small batch and see if the ingredient changes work. Write everything down, including mistakes. I also take pictures of all failed products.

Only by experimenting will you develop and learn new things about cosmetics manufacturing. There are no foolproof recipes for many situations. That’s why the courage to experiment and substitute ingredients will ultimately reward you handsomely.

Have fun making cosmetics!

Artikkeli Substituting ingredients in cosmetics julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

What is bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol is a completely plant-based extract, unlike retinol, which is synthetically produced. Bakuchiol is obtained from the babchi plant (Cullen corylifolium). The leaves, roots and seeds of the plant are used to make Bakuchiol. On the other hand, babchi oil is pressed from the seeds alone. Babchi oil contains only 3% of the active ingredients of bakuchiol extract. These two substances; bakuchiol extract and babchi oil are completely different products. You can use these two ingredients together, but they are not the same thing. You cannot replace bakuchiol extract with babchi oil. Cold-pressed babchi oil is also phototoxic, meaning it reacts on the skin under the influence of UV rays. The phototoxic substances have been removed from Bakuchiol extract, so you can also use it during the day.

Bakuchiol is not a new acquaintance. It has been used for centuries in Chinese and Indian medicine to treat various skin conditions. Bakuchiol is a traditional Ayurvedic medicine. It was rediscovered in 2014 because its retinol-like effects had been noticed in studies. An article published in the International Journal of Cosmetics Science talked about a study in which 17 female patients participated. The results of the study looked promising. The effect of Bakuchiol essentially resembled the effect of retinol, but without the side effects of retinol. The only problem was the smallness of the test group and the fact that there was no peer group at all.

The studies continued and already in 2018, a new study was published, in which a larger number of people participated. The study was conducted with a double-blind study. Also in this study, the effectiveness of bakuchiol proved to be comparable to that of retinol. More research is still needed to get more detailed information about the benefits and risks of bakuchiol.

Bakuchiol is a relatively valuable plant extract. Its availability has previously been difficult for small manufacturers and hobbyists. Now you can find bakuchiol a little easier in international online stores that sell cosmetic raw materials.

How does bakuchiol affect the skin?

I have been using bakuchiol day cream for a few months. I have been really pleased with its effect. The skin is significantly brighter and more elastic. The skin tone has been clearly evened out. I have never used products with retinol, so I do not have anything to compare with. For my sensitive skin, bakuchiol does not cause any problems. The same may not apply to you, so you should first test the product on an unseen spot on the skin.

Bakuchiol produces similar effects on the skin as retinol. However, Bakuchiol is not related to retinol. The way it works is completely different. in fact, researchers don’t know exactly how bakuchiol works. However, it has only been studied scientifically for such a short time.

Bakuchiol brightens the skin. Bakuchiol regenerates skin cells strongly. As a result, the tone and texture of the skin improves. Wrinkles and lines on the skin are reduced. The skin becomes firmer and more flexible.

Bakuchiol works deep in the dermis by stimulating collagen production. Collagen is a protein that makes the skin plump and youthful. In aged skin, there is little collagen left and that is why wrinkles are visible the deepest.

Bakuchiol is also useful for acne prone skin. It reduces the production of sebum and at the same time curbs the overproduction of bacteria on the skin.

Bakuchiol is a powerful antioxidant that fights free radicals on the skin. Free radicals are unstable molecules that damage your skin, by aging it. Antioxidants play a key role in the fight against free radicals.

Bakuchiol does not have the same photosensitizing property as retinol. Retinol should only be used in night creams precisely because of photosensitivity. Bakuchiol, on the other hand, can also be used in day creams and serums.

Bakuchiol does not dry the skin like retinol. It works to regenerate the skin so that the skin’s natural moisture balance is maintained.

How is bakuchiol used?

Bakuchiol is used very versatile in cosmetics. It is a very expensive ingredient, so it is rarely found in body care products. In products for mature skin, on the other hand, bakuchiol is a popular ingredient. You can find bakuchiol in serums and anti-aging creams and face masks.

Bakuchiol is easy to work with. It is an oil-soluble, odourless, brown extract. It is a heat-sensitive ingredient, so it is better to add it to the product only in the cooling phase. Bakuchiol oxidizes easily, so pack the products containing it in airtight or dark packaging to protect from light.

Bakuchiol is very effective. Only 0.5-1% of the extract is enough to achieve the desired effect on the skin. Bakuchiol can be mixed directly into the oil phase, but be careful not to heat it above 75 degrees Celsius. I only add bakuchiol to the emulsion when it has cooled down to 35 degrees. Bakuchiol should be dissolved in oils and then mixed into the emulsion. Although bakuchiol is brown in colour, it does not colour the emulsion, it remains pure white.

Who should use Bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol is suitable for all skin types. Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects are in a class of their own.

Bakuchiol is especially recommended for people whose skin cannot tolerate retinol. If your skin is sensitive, start with a small amount (0.5%) and increase the dose little by little if your skin seems to tolerate bakuchiol. Especially if you have skin problems like rosacea or eczema, start the bakuchiol experiment very carefully.

Bakuchiol is suitable for both dry and oily skin. It is used in both anti-aging products and acne creams. When bakuchiol is used on mature skin, its collagen-stimulating effects become more apparent. On young skin, bakuchiol works mainly as a skin-brightening and sebum-reducing ingredient.

Have you ever tried bakuchiol?

Artikkeli Bakuchiol, what it is and what does bakuchiol do to skin? julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Roses have always been very popular in cosmetics

Roses have been used in cosmetics for a long period of time. The history of roses is truly vast. Roses have been around for 35 million years, well before human appearance on Earth.

For thousands of years humans have found the healing and skin-care qualities of the rose. In addition to these qualities, roses have something mysterious and fascinating. That is why it has reached the absolute number one position as a cosmetic raw material.

Why roses are so desirable cosmetic ingredients

Roses are popular in cosmetics mainly because of their stunning scent. The aroma of the rose is therefore the most important cosmetic property of the rose. Roses are romantic flowers whose effect fills all senses.

There are also some herbal chemicals in roses such as flavonoids and vitamins. Therefore, the effect of roses on skin care should not be underestimated. Roses have been used in herbal medicine for colds and burns precisely because of their vitamin content. Today, Chinese medicine still appreciates rose as an important healing herb.

Old legends tell about the mysterious powers of roses. The rose is considered a symbol of love. Of course, the scent of the rose together with the beauty have influenced to get the association of love. However, rose has been used in herbalist circles as a kind of “psychiatric drug”. Rose brings relief to those who are suffering the lack of love.  Rose oil is added to young children’s organic products to bring in more love. Of course, nothing beats mother’s loving lap. However, the rose will give the child more love if the mother’s lap is often reserved for little sister. A jealous or sad child desperately needs the love that rose oil can bring. You might want to try this tip. At least most kids like the scent of rose oil.

You can use the other parts of the rose than flowers

You are familiar with rose buds and rose petals, I guess.  There are many uses for them. You can also use rose hips, rose oil and rose leaves in cosmetics. Many parts of the rose are suitable as ingredients for natural cosmetics.

Rose Seed Oil (INCI name Rosa Canina Seed Oil)

Rose seed oil is often referred to as rosehip seed oil. It is one of the best ingredients in natural cosmetics.

Oil made from rose seeds can be prepared using different methods

The best quality rose seed oil does not contain any Rosa Canina Fruit Extract. Pure rose seed oil is green in colour. It has no rose scent (unfortunately).

There is also rosehip oil which also contains rosehip extract (Rosa Canina Fruit Extract). This kind of oil is not the best quality.  However, it is good material for cosmetics and skin problems. Because rosehip oil contains the fruit part of rosehip, it can also irritate sensitive skin.

There is also a mixed rose seed oil available, which is basically a blend of other oils. Rosehip extract is then added to the oil. This product may contain many ingredients even though it is marketed as rosehip oil. Such products are not necessarily low-quality products. They can be great for the skin. However, if you want oil made from rosehip seed, make sure you have the right product before you buy.

Unfortunately, the name of the product does not tell much about the content. If you want pure rose seed oil with no rose hip extract, please read the INCI list carefully.

Noble skin oil

Many people use rose seed oil as the only beauty care product. I’m not surprised at all. Rose seed oil is one of the best skin oils. I also do use rose seed oil quite often in cleansing oils and in facial creams. Rose seed oil is made from seeds inside the rose buds. Rose seeds are squeezed using the cold pressing method. This way the oil retains its freshness, its vitamin and its antioxidants.

Rose seed oil is a highly absorbent oil. It contains about 54% of linoleic acids which are very suitable to the skin and other linoleic acids about 20%. It means the fatty acid composition of rose seed oil is ideal.

Rose seed oil also contains many herbal chemicals that are good for the skin, such as phenolic compounds and carotenoids. Carotenoids are precursors of vitamin A. Vitamin A has many beneficial effects on the skin.

Rose seed oil also contains high levels of ascorbic acid. Ascorbic acid, or vitamin C, is a powerful antioxidant.

Rose Hips

Rose hips are real anti-oxidant bombs. They contain enormous amounts of vitamin C and carotenoids. Rosehip is a very powerful ingredient in cosmetics. It should never be applied to the skin as it is. Even a small amount of rose hips is enough to bring antioxidants to the skin. In home cosmetics, I recommend the use of rose hips in wash-away products such as facial masks and shampoos.

Rosehip is very sour. It is a very useful and worth trying ingredient in acid rinses as well as in pH balancing facial lotions.

Rosehips are also a true superfood full of vitamins and antioxidants. They make the skin glow. Try rose hips in smoothies or porridge.

 You can get probiotic cosmetics from rose leaves

I have prepared a lot of probiotic homemade cosmetics. My story about fermentation and probiotic cosmetics is here.

It is easy to collect the green leaves of the rose for probiotic cosmetics. Fermented rose green leaves are a very neutral ingredient. They are not too acidic and do not contain dehydrating saponins. The green leaves of the rose are also easy to collect. When fermenting, it is advisable to prefer plants that produce plenty of acidic mass.

The rose is an outstanding plant, a flower in its own class

I am definitely recommending you to take a look at the rose. It is a multi-purpose use plant that suits well for many uses other than perfume. It is worth learning what you can do with rose. There are individuals for whom rose seems to be a must in all skin care products. Children, in particular, benefit more from the rose than we can imagine. The rose gives more love to their lives. There cannot be too much love in the life of a small child. The same thing is true with us adults as well.

Rose is also an inexpensive and at the same time luxurious ingredient in cosmetics. A drop of luxury for your lotion will make you feel pampered. Only few plants have such an effect.

Learn how to use rose in cosmetics. The rose is a very ancient plant that existed long before man inhabited the earth. It has a lot to give us.

Have you ever tried rose seed oil on your skin? Tell me about your experiences! You can comment on this blog’s comment section, on helenatur Facebook page or on Instagram @helenatur10.

Artikkeli Rose, the queen of flowers julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

What are polysorbates?

Polysorbates are a large group of different chemicals. Polysorbates are always manufactured in chemical factories. They are never natural. Polysorbates are used in cosmetics, for example, as emulsifiers, surfactants and fragrance ingredients.

Polysorbate is treated with ethylene oxide (ethoxylation) after which the substance is combined with fatty acids.

There are many different types of polysorbates. Different polysorbates are separated from each other by a number. The number after polysorbate indicates the number of ethylene oxides.

Polysorbates used in cosmetics

The most familiar polysorbates in cosmetics are polysorbate-60 (Tween 60) and polysorbate-20 (Tween 20). There are many other polysorbates used in cosmetics. These two are just examples.

Polysorbate-60 is made from sorbitol and lauric acid. Polysorbate-20 is made by ethoxylation of sorbitan monolaurate. Both products are treated with ethylene oxide, meaning that they undergo an ethoxylation process.

These two polysorbates are commonly used as emulsifiers to combine water with oil. Polysorbate-80 is soluble in water and oil but not in glycerine. Polysorbate-20 is soluble in water and glycerine but only partially in oil (cloudiness). Therefore, the purpose of these two in cosmetics is slightly different. Polysorbate-20 is suitable, for example, for dissolving essential oils in water. Polysorbate-20 is also an ingredient in toners, mascaras, and foundation. Polysorbate-60 is used as an actual emulsifier in creams, for example.

Polysorbate-80 is commonly used in cosmetics as a washing ingredient. It is generally found in shower gels and shampoos. Polysorbate-80 is also a very common ingredient in vaccines. All polysorbates are also generating the foam in the product.

Polysorbate-80 and polysorbate-20 are both cold process emulsifiers. Cold process emulsifiers are very popular in industry. The hot process consumes an incredible amount of energy when the product is manufactured on an industrial scale like several tons. The hot product also needs to be cooled down, which in turn takes time and energy. The cold process does not have these problems at all.

Polysorbate-20 is suitable not only for cosmetics, but also for food such as ice cream and salad dressings.

Are polysorbates harmful?

Polysorbate itself is not harmful. The problems with polysorbates are related to the ethoxylation process. The risks are related to contamination. When polysorbate is ethoxylated, it can be contaminated with dangerous, carcinogenic substances.

What does contamination mean?

Contamination means the contamination of a product with unwanted or toxic substances. A contaminated product has been contaminated unintentionally. No one has intentionally added a toxic substance to the product. The toxic substance has been formed into the product during the manufacturing process. The manufacturing process should ensure that the final product is as clean as possible and contains only the chemicals that were supposed to be in there. If the cleaning process has been handled carelessly, many harmful compounds may remain in the final product. It is impossible for the manufacturer of the final product to say whether the ingredients he uses are completely pure or not. The cosmetics manufacturer should only rely on the supplier of the ingredient(s).

The biggest concerns about polysorbate are its carcinogenicity due to ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxin. The same substances also cause skin allergies and problems with reproductive health and development. As always, researchers completely disagree about the carcinogenicity of polysorbates. There are many different studies for and against of the issue. Polysorbates have therefore been studied extensively.

Compounds that cause cancer and allergies

Several studies have found that polysorbates enhance the effects of known carcinogenic substances, even if they are not carcinogenic. The effects of polysorbates have been studied mainly in food, but not so much on the skin. Polysorbates are feared to cause problems with intestinal bacterial growth and to be partially a contributing factor to intestinal cancer and other intestinal problems.

Polysorbate-80, which is found in vaccines, has also been extensively studied because it is suspected of causing problems for certain groups of people.

Polysorbate-20 has been found to cause allergies, irritation, and skin sensitization. The same problem exists with polysorbate-85.

How to avoid polysorbates?

Polysorbates have not been found to be toxic substances. They are not dangerous as such. However, if you want to avoid contaminated ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxin, you should avoid polysorbates not only in food but also in cosmetics.

Use natural cosmetics

Currently, no polysorbates may be used in certified natural cosmetics. Therefore, purchasing certified natural cosmetics is a safe choice.

There are also many small cosmetics artisans workshops whose products are free of polysorbates and other synthetic ingredients. It is worth checking out the ÍNCI list of these products. If a product has strange ingredients whose meaning you do not understand, leave the product on the shelf.

Use anhydrous products

I recommend choosing anhydrous products. Anhydrous products usually do not contain emulsifiers or preservatives. I said “usually” because nowadays you can’t be sure about anything anymore. For example, water-free cleansing oils often contain emulsifiers and even preservatives. Similarly, many bulk products nowadays do also contain preservatives and other chemicals.

Make your own cosmetics

By making your own products, you can be sure of what the product contains. Homemade cosmetics are usually very simple, water-free cosmetics that don’t contain many ingredients. That’s why homemade cosmetics are so safe.

If you want to make emulsions, you have so many completely safe emulsifiers to choose from. You don’t necessarily ever need polysorbate, even if you make products that contain water. The familiar Olivem 1000 is a good and versatile emulsifier that is also completely safe to use. Most probably, you can find other, also safe options for emulsifiers from online stores selling cosmetic raw materials.

Do you check the INCI list when buying cosmetics?

Artikkeli Polysorbates julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Black cumin seed oil is an ancient product used in ancient cultures such as India and the Middle East. Black cumin oil has multiple uses. In this article, I will tell you how you can use black cumin oil for hair and skin care. Black cumin oil is a quite unknown product. All of its features are not yet known. Black cumin oil is clearly different from all other oils. Therefore, its use must be properly studied. Next, I will tell you about the history of black cumin oil and its benefits for the skin and scalp.

Black cumin oil was a cosmetic for Cleopatra

Black gum, or Nigella sativa, is originally coming from Southwest Asia. Black cumin should not be mixed with spice caraway or Roman cumin, aka jeera. Black cumin belongs to a completely different plant family: Nigella is a member of the buttercup family. Its flower looks like the flower of a buttercup but is azure in colour.

Black cumin is getting along well in the extreme heat of the Middle East. It has been cultivated in the territory of Egypt since the time of the Pharaohs thousands of years ago. Black cumin seeds have been found in the tombs of the pharaohs. That is why it is also called Pharaoh’s oil.

The oil made from black cumin is almost black and smells slightly like tar. The scent can be quite intense but still pleasant.

Black cumin oil is rich in antioxidants

In skin care, the popularity of black cumin oil is based on its really rich antioxidant content. Antioxidants protect the skin from oxidation thus also reduce the signs of aging.

 Black cumin oil contains an antioxidant called thymoquinone. Thymoquinone is an anti-inflammatory and curative compound. Thymoquinone has even been studied in the treatment of cancer. It may have a reducing effect on squamous cell tumours.

Other highly effective antioxidants in black cumin oil are carvacrol, t-anethole and 4-terpineol.

Black cumin oil also contains calcium as well as numerous vitamins such as vitamin A, vitamin D, folic acid, vitamin B3 and niacin.

Due to its rich content of antioxidants and vitamins, the effect of black cumin oil has also been tested on several skin diseases such as

• Eczema, you can find the study here. Black cumin oil has been tried for eczema in the hands with encouraging results.
• Psoriasis, research can be found here. The study has only been done in mice, so in humans, the effect may be quite different.
• Acne, research can be found here. For acne, studies have been done in humans and the results have been encouraging.

Black cumin oil has a very rich and versatile fatty acid composition

Black cumin oil is a very old and popular product. Therefore, it has been studied very thoroughly. Oleic acids have also been carefully studied and analysed many times.

Black cumin oil mainly contains linoleic acid, which is a very good fatty acid for the skin. Linoleic acid is not pore-clogging. There is little oleic acid in black cumin oil. EPA and DHA fatty acids have mainly nutritional importance.

• Linoleic acid 42.76%
• Oleic acid 16.59%
• Palmitic acid 8.51%
• Stearic acid 2.22%
• Eicosantric acid 4.71%
• Eicosapentaenoic acid EPA 5.98%
• Docosahexaenoic acid DHA 2.97%

Black cumin oil is antiseptic

Black cumin oil is very effective for skin problems where microbes have succeeded. One typical microbial problem is dandruff. Dandruff is often caused by overgrowth of yeast. An oil treatment on the scalp containing black cumin oil can control the dandruff problem.

The antioxidants in oils are never strong enough to cure the actual inflammation or acute fungal disease of the skin. They only work as maintenance treatment or as a preventative measure. If you have a clear, acute skin condition or inflammation of the skin, always consult a dermatologist.

Black cumin oil protects the skin from infections. Especially in summer, the skin can easily become inflamed and get fungal infections. I have used black cumin oil in foot creams to protect my summer feet in advance. foot cream should always be applied to damp feet after a foot bath and possible scratching

Black cumin oil shrinks pores

Black cumin oil has been found to have pore-reducing effects. Open pores are not just a cosmetic problem. Open pores collect dirt and contaminants in air more efficiently than closed pores.

Black cumin oil activates hair follicles

In India, black cumin oil is one of the best products against hair loss as well as promoting hair growth. Black cumin oil increases blood circulation in the scalp. When you apply black cumin oil to the scalp, you will feel a pleasant feeling of warmth. It means that the blood circulation starts to wake up. Increased blood circulation brings more oxygen and nutrients to the hair follicles and gives your hair new growth.

Black cumin oil supports the health of the scalp and prevents scalp problems.

Black cumin oil keeps skin elastic and moisturized

The oils do not actually moisturize the skin. If you already have very dry skin, applying the oil to the skin does not bring it more moisture. Moisture always means water. Therefore, oils must be applied to damp skin. The best humidification is clean water. Of course, you can add a little glycerine to the water to bind moisture to the skin.

Black cumin oil effectively locks moisture deep into the skin so that the skin feels very elastic and soft. Black cumin oil is well absorbed and does not leave greasy feeling on surface of the skin.

Black cumin oil removes darkening of the skin

The best way to remove darkening from your skin is to use antioxidant skin care products. The antioxidants in black cumin oil work well on dark spots caused by skin aging. You may need to use black cumin oil for a while before getting results and the darkening fades.

How do you use black cumin oil?

Always choose 100%, pure, cold pressed black cumin oil. Of course, organic quality is always the recommended option.

Black cumin oil is sold in very small bottles. It is not a base oil but a very strong specialty oil. Black cumin oil should always be mixed with a base oil such as sunflower oil or safflower oil. The mild base oil dilutes black cumin oil to suitable level for the skin.

Black cumin oil is well suited as a skin oil

Use black cumin oil at a dilution of about 5-20%. A stronger, 20% dilution is best used in case you have a skin problem. Normally a 5% dilution is just enough to maintain the condition of the skin. You can use black cumin oil diluted with mild base oils directly on the skin. The same oil applies to the face, body and scalp.

Use black cumin oil for anhydrous ointments

Black cumin oil is suitable for anhydrous creams containing beeswax. In ancient Greece, black cumin oil was always used in conjunction with beeswax and propolis. Propolis is a beeswax. It contains a huge number of antibacterial agents such as resins. If you are allergic to resins, do not use bee products. At least not propolis.

You can also make an effective caring cream with about 5-20% black cumin oil. Antibacterial cream made from black cumin oil is well suited for foot care. You can also make a face cream containing black cumin oil for problem skin.

It is highly recommended to use black cumin oil in hair care products. Add a few drops of black cumin oil to the conditioner before applying the conditioner to your hair. Leave on for a few minutes and rinse off the conditioner normally.

Black cumin oil is an interesting specialty oil worth trying

Black cumin oil is a very exceptional oil that is less commonly used in cosmetics. However, it is a highly nutritious and antioxidant product. Thanks to its antioxidants, black cumin oil also retains better than other oils with a high linoleic acid content. A good feature of black cumin oil is its suitability for cooking as well. You can also use healthy black cumin oil in the kitchen to give a full-bodied taste to, for example, vegetarian dishes and salad dressings.

Artikkeli Black cumin seed oil; oil of Pharaohs julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Cannabis plant

The cannabis plant was originally classified into three different species; Cannabis sativa, Cannabis Indica and Cannabis ruderalis. Nowadays, many researchers are of the opinion that the commonly cultivated cannabis plant is called C. sativa L. Its subspecies “sativa” can be called hemp and the other subspecies “indica” can be called recreational cannabis or marijuana. The indica variety has significantly more psychoactive substances than the sativa. In this article, I will only talk about cannabis sativa, which has a very balanced ratio of all cannabinoids.

What are cannabinoids?

Cannabinoids can be divided into three groups

• Endocannabinoids; cannabinoids produced by the body itself
• Phyto cannabinoids; cannabinoids found in flora
• Synthetic cannabinoids; factory-made cannabinoids

Endocannabinoids

Cannabinoids are also naturally present in all of our bodies, not only in the hemp plant. These are called endocannabinoids.

Endocannabinoids are cannabinoids produced by the body, which have their own important function in the body. Endocannabinoids work through receptors on the surface of body cells. These receptors are everywhere in the body, such as in the muscles, internal organs, brain and also in the skin. When necessary, for example in stressful situations, cannabinoids always affect the right place in the body.

Cannabinoids are completely natural and necessary chemicals for the body. The body is able to utilize the cannabinoids of the hemp plant in the same way as it utilizes its own endocannabinoids.

Sometimes, for many different reasons, the production of endocannabinoids decreases in the body. Then the body’s balance is disturbed. Disorders can be treated using cannabinoids obtained from plants. The most useful cannabinoids for the body are the non-psychoactive cannabinoids.

Phyto cannabinoids are a broad group of plant chemicals

Phyto cannabinoids are mainly obtained from the hemp plant. When talking about cannabinoids, the first thought is usually the psychoactive THC but not the non-psychoactive CBD. These are the most well-known cannabinoids. In reality, there are 120 different cannabinoids in the hemp plant. They each have a slightly different effect. Only two of them have an intoxicating effect, the others are not psychoactive at all but instead have incredible therapeutic effects. The research and utilization of Phyto cannabinoids is only in the beginning. Cannabinoid research has been hampered by the use of cannabis for intoxicating purposes.

Synthetic cannabinoids

Synthetically produced cannabinoids are mainly used in the pharmaceutical industry. Extracting isolated cannabinoids from plants is very challenging and not always successful. The pharmaceutical industry wants to use single, isolated cannabinoids in their products to produce a specific effect. The easiest way to do this is with synthetic cannabinoids. Synthetic cannabinoids do not have the same synergistic effect as natural Phyto cannabinoids.

Other phytochemicals contained in the hemp plant

In addition to cannabinoids, 400 different terpenes and hundreds of flavonoids have been found in hemp. The numerous flavonoids contained in the hemp plant essentially affect the pharmacological effect of the cannabinoids contained in hemp. All of these phytochemicals make hemp a truly therapeutic plant. The terpenes and flavonoids of the hemp plant work together with different cannabinoids. They form an incredibly powerful synergistic compound that has many effects in skin care. This is called the Entourage effect.

The terpenes contained in the hemp plant are rich in cannabinoid-supporting effects. The most important terpenes contained in the hemp plant are;

• alpha-pinene; helps memory and works to prevent inflammation
• beta-pinene; helps memory and works to prevent inflammation
• limonene; brightens the skin, antioxidant
• terpinolene,
• beta-caryophyllene; mainly responsible for the anti-inflammatory effect
• beta-myrcene; improves skin permeability, antioxidant

Entourage effect

Research into the complex Entourage-effect of the hemp plant’s phytochemicals began as early as the 60s in Israel. It has continued until these days. Researchers have made some breakthroughs in studying the effect of phytochemicals on humans. They have noticed that the therapeutic effect is the best when the whole plant is used. If you want to isolate CBD only from the plant and use it, the effect is not that good at all. Much more research is needed to understand the interaction between cannabinoids and other phytochemicals in the hemp plant.

Cannabinoid products

There are many types of cannabis products. There are many restrictions on cannabinoids, maybe in your country it is not legal to use THC even externally. If you want to sell your products, make sure that none of your products contain any THC. THC is also not necessary in skin care. The other cannabinoids, terpenes and flavonoids of the hemp plant completely replace the THC.

The most recommended form of cannabinoid oil for cosmetics is a broad-spectrum product from which only THC has been removed. Such a product includes all the terpenes and cannabinoids contained in the plant (except THC). Broad-spectrum cannabinoid oil has a highly effective, synergistic effect. All the phytochemicals in the product work together to support each other.

In broad-spectrum products, the problem can be the THC contained in the product. In case the oil you are using contains some THC,  you are in possession of an illegal product. The quality of the product may also vary depending on the cannabinoid content of the plants used. Cannabinoids are very unstable plant chemicals. They may change shape depending on temperature, the effect of oxygen and light, and the quality of the original plant material.

Isolates are also very common cannabinoid products. Isolates mean that one cannabinoid, most commonly CBD, has been isolated from cannabis. The product then does not contain any other cannabinoids or terpenes, and such a product is not as effective as broad-spectrum cannabinoid oil. Of course, you can add the necessary essential oils to the product yourself, which contain terpenes same and typical of cannabis. In this way, you get back some of the synergy. You need to know the terpenes in essential oils well in order to create an effective product using the isolate.

How do cannabinoids affect the skin?

Cannabinoids affect the skin in many different ways. Researchers have discovered that there are two cannabinoid receptors in the skin; CB-1 and CB-2. Cannabinoids affect the growth of melanocytes, keratinocytes and fibroblasts through these receptors. Cannabinoids affect skin cell growth, reproduction, differentiation and natural cell regeneration. The numerous terpenes and flavonoids in the cannabis plant support the effect of cannabinoids on the skin.

Cannabinoids have been used successfully in the treatment of many different skin diseases. In this blog, I will not go deeper to skin diseases and the treatment of them.  If the topic interests you, you can get more information on the topic online.

In healthy skin, cannabinoids especially affect the moisture balance of the skin. They strengthen the skin’s protective layer.

Cannabinoids together with terpenes act to soothe the skin and prevent inflammation. There is a lot of evidence for this in the treatment of various skin diseases, e.g. acne, psoriasis and atopic eczema. The skin-soothing effect of cannabinoids also treats itching.

Cannabinoids regenerate the skin effectively. This property is useful in the treatment of aged skin. The skin’s ability to renew itself disappears with aging. The renewal process can be accelerated by using products containing cannabinoids in skin care.

Cannabinoids have a balancing effect on skin function. They reduce excessive sebum production and are therefore a good active ingredient for oily skin. Oily skin is also prone to infections. The anti-inflammatory property of cannabinoids is useful in acne prevention.

Cannabinoids should also be used in hair products. There are studies where cannabinoids have reduced hair loss. Cannabinoids also soothe an irritated, itchy scalp.

Unfortunately, there is very little official research data on the use of cannabinoids on the skin. We definitely need more research and experience on the use of cannabinoids in skin care. However, here were some ideas for you on what types of skin problems you could try treating with cannabinoids.

Use of cannabinoids in a cosmetic product?

Cannabinoids should be added to nourishing cosmetics such as serums, facial masks, facial oils, night creams and nourishing day creams. Cannabinoids should not be added to wash-off products, as they do not have time to take effect in a very short time.

Cannabinoids are fat-soluble, so you can also include them in completely water-free products such as balms and salves. You cannot use cannabinoids in products that do not contain any oils, such as toners.

Feel free to also use essential oils with cannabinoids. Terpenes in essential oils work synergistically with cannabinoids. In this way, the skin care effect of cannabinoids is significantly better.

As I mentioned earlier. Cannabinoids are fine but unstable products. They should not be heated at all. Therefore, add cannabinoids to the product only when the product has clearly cooled, meaning preferably below 30 degrees Celsius.

Protect cannabinoids from light and oxygen. Pack the product in a dark glass bottle or jar. Always close the can carefully after use and store away from direct sunlight.

Use no more than 1% of cannabinoids in the product. Higher amounts of cannabinoids can irritate the skin. Of course, the amount depends entirely on the cannabinoid product you are using. However, in the beginning, be very careful and avoid overdosing.

Have you already tried cannabinoids in skin care?

Artikkeli Cannabinoids in cosmetics julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.

Propylene glycol is produced in large quantities in chemical plants for the production of polymers. It is used at airports for de-icing and anti-icing of aircrafts. Propylene glycol is also known as an antifreeze for car radiators. Propylene glycol is also used in some oral and intravenous medications. Propylene glycol is such a common chemical that you inevitably encounter it every day without even realizing it. The uses of propylene glycol are such that you would never even think of it as a cosmetic ingredient. Why is such a chemical used in skin care? Read on to learn more about propylene glycol.

Properties of propylene glycol

Propylene glycol has many good properties, and because of that it is such a desirable and versatile chemical. Basically, propylene glycol is a solvent. It helps to dissolve the cosmetic ingredients in the liquid.

It is a viscous, colourless liquid that is almost odourless. However, it has a sweet, very mild taste. Propylene glycol mixes well with many types of liquids, including water. In the European Union, it has an official E-code, food additive number, E-1520. For cosmetics and pharmacology uses, the number is E-490. The vapourability of propylene glycol is weak. It is a humectant, meaning it attracts moisture from the surrounding air. In cosmetics, propylene glycol is used precisely to preserve moisture and to prevent, for example, make-up products from drying out. One of the most important properties of propylene glycol is its ability to remain liquid even in freezing conditions.

What is Propylene Glycol made from?

Propylene glycol is a typical petrochemical product. It has traditionally been produced by hydrating propylene oxide. Propylene oxide, on the other hand, is produced by oxidizing propylene with either ethylene benzene or isobutene.

Use of propylene glycol in cosmetics

Propylene glycol is characterized as a humectant. It is a viscous liquid with low toxicity. It is widely used in shampoos, moisturizers, cleansers, conditioners, deodorants, aftershaves, make-up products and perfumes.

The most important property of propylene glycol is its ability to attract moisture. That is why it is used in all moisturizing products. It is also a popular ingredient in creams that prevent the signs of aging because it is able to retain moisture even on thin skin.

Propylene glycol prevents water from evaporating from the skin. That’s why it’s a popular ingredient in dry skin care kits. It also acts as a skin softener.

Propylene glycol helps the other ingredients of the cosmetic product to penetrate the skin. Most cosmetic substances remain on the surface of the skin because they do not have the ability to penetrate deeper into the skin. Propylene glycol acts as a carrier in the product. It moves the active ingredients deeper into the skin.

Propylene glycol is recommended for acne treatment. It is a mild antimicrobial agent that is believed to soothe irritated skin. Propylene glycol is not greasy at all, so it is considered an effective and safe form of acne treatment.

Propylene glycol is used in cosmetics in preservative systems together with other chemicals.

Is propylene glycol a safe ingredient in cosmetics?

In general, propylene glycol is considered a safe chemical. However, that is not the whole truth. The biggest problem with propylene glycol is the allergic reactions it causes. Propylene glycol causes contact dermatitis in some people. Typical symptoms are redness, itching and small blisters on the skin. The American Contact Dermatis Society named propylene glycol the allergen of the year in 2018. The organization wanted to draw people’s attention to its significant share of allergy-causing factors. Most of the people sensitized to propylene glycol do not realize that they are allergic to this particular chemical.

People with eczema are easily sensitized to propylene glycol

Contact allergies are most typical in people with atopic skin or eczema. People whose skin has been damaged in some ways are also more susceptible to becoming allergic to propylene glycol. Also, people who work with machines and engines are more easily sensitized to propylene glycol. If you have ever been sensitized to this chemical, you should always avoid products containing it. Avoiding can be challenging, as propylene glycol is one of the most common of chemicals, which can be found in cosmetic products as well as in foodstuffs and medicines.

Sensitization to propylene glycol first appears on the skin of the face. After this, the rash easily spreads to other parts of the body. Contact dermatitis can also occur after consuming a product containing propylene glycol. For example, some beers and confectionery products contain propylene glycol as an additive. A very typical reaction caused by propylene glycol is dryness of the scalp, flaking and itching. Shampoos and conditioners often contain propylene glycol.

You should always check the ingredient list of the product you are using. Propylene glycol is often found there. Unfortunately, the industry is always coming up with new names for the same compound.

Here are some aliases for propylene glycol

• 1-2-dihydroxypropane
• 1,2-propanediol
• 2 Hydroxypropyl
• Methyl Glycol
• PPG,
• PPG-3
• PPG-7
• PPG-9
• PPG-12
• PPG-13
• PPG-15
• PPG-16
• PPG-17
• PPG-20
• PPG-26
• PPG-30
• PPG-33
• PPG-34
• PPG-51
• PPG-52
• PPG-69
• Propane 1,2-Diol
• Trimethyl Glycol

Propylene glycol is really hard to avoid

If you are once sensitized to propylene glycol, the only way to avoid symptoms is to avoid it. Sensitized people slowly start to realize how difficult it is. Propylene glycol is such a common chemical that there is simply no way escaping it. It is found in car radiators and heaters, anti-icing in airplanes, most common household cleaners, cosmetics, industrially made cakes and sweets. The situation is made even worse by the fact that propylene glycol has the ability to move environmental toxins deeper into the layers of the skin. When we consider all the harmful chemicals we encounter on a daily basis, this may be an even more dangerous phenomenon than the substance itself.

Today, propylene glycol, like other glycols, is used uncatiously, For example, as a moisturizing agent in cosmetics. Propylene glycol is very cheap and does not stick to the skin like glycerol. The many uses of propylene glycol makes it a very popular raw material in cosmetics. The use of glycols in cosmetics should be limited only to products for which it is difficult to find a safer alternative to glycols. There are many safe moisturizing agents suitable for cosmetics.

Propylene glycol is a petrochemical product

It is not allowed to use any chemicals that are related to petroleum or its derivates in Certified natural cosmetics. Propylene glycol is just such a product. However, nowadays, a plant-based propylene glycol has been produced, which is also permitted in natural cosmetics. This is a bit strange because plant origin does not make the substance any safer.

It is a very synthetic substance that would not exist at all without petroleum. Products made from petroleum, such as petroleum jelly, are unnatural products in skin care. There is nothing in petroleum that the skin needs. Although at first it seems that propylene glycol is good for the skin, what does it do in the long run? Where does this chemical go from the skin? It doesn’t evaporate, it’s absorbed.

What to replace propylene glycol?

Propylene glycol should be avoided whenever possible. In cosmetics, it is surprisingly difficult to avoid it’s use due to the versatility of propylene glycol.

Nowadays, certified natural cosmetics makers also use plant-based propylene glycol. This information was a surprise to me too. In case a chemical substance is made either from plants or petroleum, means both substances could be equally dangerous. However, plant-based propylene glycol is a more sustainable choice than a petroleum-based product.

Propylene glycol is often replaced with other glycols such as pentylene, butylene or caprylyl glycol. The users of pentylene glycol have been observed to sentisize to it. The same phenomenon will certainly be a problem with all solvents. Adding solvents to cosmetics is not necessarily safe. The most sensitive people will react to any new solvents in any case.

Natural plant oils can also penetrate the skin, although not as deeply as solvents. By using the genuinely natural ingredients we can achieve almost the same result without harmful side effects. The sterols and oleic acids contained in vegetable oils are now the subject of research in an attempt to find natural alternatives to solvents. Terpenes and polysaccharides found in plants have also been studied as penetration enhancers.

A good and recommended option is to make at least some of your own cosmetics. Homemade cosmetics are exactly as safe as you want them to be. Natural vegetable oils and genuine hydrolates can be used to make the best cosmetics that do not contain questionable chemicals.

If your skin is sensitized and you do not know how to make cosmetics yourself, switch to cosmetic oils only. For already sensitized skin, the best oil is as clear and filtered as possible.

Are you allergic to propylene glycol?

Artikkeli Cosmetics dirty dozen; Propylene glycol julkaistiin ensimmäisen kerran Helenatur.